FineScale.com PLUS 83 NEW PRODUCTS & 8 BUILDS/REVIEWS December 2017 STAR WARS: Build a better BB-8 CREATEAWARTORN WWIIBOMBER HOWTO EXCLUSIVE EAGLEQ...91 downloads 514 Views 17MB Size
STAR WARS: Build a better BB-8 December 2017
CREATE A WARTORN WWII BOMBER Wolfgang Bugl’s Hasegawa 1/72 scale B-26 Marauder – p. 21
HOW T O
EAGLEQUEST GALLERY P. 30
MODEL AN IWO JIMA SHERMAN P. 26 UPGRADE A BLUE ANGELS A-4F P. 34 MAKE CANOPY MASKING SIMPLE P. 50 IMPROVE A COAST GUARD JAYHAWK P. 46 PLUS 83 NEW PRODUCTS & 8 BUILDS/REVIEWS
BONUS ONLINE CONTENT CODE PAGE 3 Vol. 35 • Issue 10
Takom 1/35 scale V2 transporter – p. 62
About The Kit:
Premium version consists of a resin upgrade set to convert the military version into a civilian platform that includes: very detailed top deck/ observation bunker. Rear port, choice of top dome (resin or vacu-form acetate), 12 upgraded wheels, radome disc for main upper body, bottom cover discs (4) to replace kit ball turrets with choice of installing laser units or clear bulbs. Haunebu kit also features beautiful decal markings to represent a civilian space-expeditionary livery. Comes with exquisite Falcon clear vacu-canopies. Part #SQM0002
.com MAKING YOUR HOBBY TAKE FLIGHT
ONLINE CONTENT CODE: FSM1712
December 2017 /// Vol. 35 /// No. 10
Enter this code at www.FineScale.com/code to gain access to web-exclusive content
16 Airbrushing & Finishing
54 MiniArt SU-122
Colors for a veteran Aardvark AARON SKINNER
56 Meng P-51D Mustang
18 Form & Figure Guns, guns, guns! JOE HUDSON
57 HobbyBoss P-51D/K Mustang
21 Mar a Marauder
Detailing and worn paint for a B-26 WOLFGANG BUGL
59 Horizon Mercury-Redstone
26 Knocked out on Iwo Jima
60 Zvezda Boeing 737-800
Making Dragon’s M4A2 a Marine JONATHAN LANGE
61 Stransky Bü 181 Bestmann
30 Show Gallery
34 Blue Angels A-4F, upgraded
Model a Hasegawa Skyhawk as a Super Foxtrot DARREN ROBERTS
5 Editor’s Page
Thumbs-up for Bandai’s foolproof kit JOHN CHUNG
7 Scale Talk
44 Simple stonework in ruins
10 New Products
46 U.S. Coast Guard rescue angel
40 Reader Gallery 52 Reader Tips
Refine a 1/72 scale Jayhawk ALBERT TURECZEK
53 Questions & Answers
50 Masking made easy
How to cut corners on tricky canopies PAT VILLARREAL
64 Hobby Shop Directory 64 Classified Marketplace
66 Final Details
A modeling odyssey MARK HEMBREE
62 Takom V-2, Meillerwagen, Hanomag SS100
IN EVERY ISSUE
37 Roll out a better BB-8
Easy ways to “86” a German 88 GLENN BARTOLOTTI
58 IBG Scammell Pioneer SV2S
65 Advertiser Index
FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187. Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, PO Box 62320, Tampa, FL 33662-2320. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.
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4 FineScale Modeler December 2017
EDITOR’S PAGE By Mark Savage
World War II still drives modeling On this month’s cover, a handsome me wonder just how each soldier Marauder stirs memories that for mustered the courage to charge off many of us flowed from our father’s the landing craft into 50-degree generation. water and storm the beaches. Many of our dads served in Drowning, hypothermia, and gunfire WWII, some sharing stories freely, were equal enemies. others keeping those difficult memoStanding just below the windries to themselves. But, for a swept shoreline bluff, lot of modelers, the aircraft, where those lucky It’s right armor, and ships of that era enough to get that far that we represent the height of U.S. had huddled that damp military might. They June morning, I pondered keep their embody good crushing evil. a question. memories Just a few weeks ago, I How could anyone not alive spent a day touring the give in and be brave enough through beaches of Normandy. It to make it up the bluff to our was a bucket-list dream secure the beachhead? models. realized, and reignited Many of us make WWII my respect and awe of models because of our fascithe soldiers that prevailed on D-Day nation with their mechanics and the and in WWII. stories these models represent. Standing on Omaha and Utah But a big part of creating WWII beaches, imagining the noise, the models is honoring our fathers and confusion, the horror of war, made grandfathers — a way of saying
The editor takes in the beaches of Normandy.
thanks. I respect what you did. You were brave. You were strong. You did your duty. It’s right that we do this, and right that we keep their memories alive through our models.
Off the sprue: What’s your funniest holiday memory?
Editor Mark Savage [email protected]
Senior Editor Aaron Skinner [email protected]
Associate Editor Mark Hembree [email protected]
Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash [email protected]
Editorial Associate Monica Freitag [email protected]
After opening gifts one Christmas morning, my daughter looks at her brother and says, “This is a lot better Christmas than last year!” I asked, “Why?” She volunteers, “Because this year we didn’t know everything we were getting.” I realized that I should start hiding the gifts better!
It’s not really funny, but: Every year, my grandmother asked me what I wanted for Christmas, and I sent her a list of kits. I think she took the list to a hobby store and handed it to the clerk. The result was a bunch of models that kept me in the workshop through the rest of the summer holidays.
When the kids were little and we had just moved to Wisconsin, we stayed awhile with my wife’s parents. On Christmas morning, as the presents began to run thin, I realized the remainder were still in black trash bags hidden in the garage. That was a little tricky. “Saaaay! Look what Santa did!”
Well, there was that time when I was real young and my sister and I thought someone was breaking into the house on Christmas Eve. Maybe it was Santa, maybe our parents putting presents under the tree … No matter — we still ended up barricading ourselves in my room.
One Christmas Eve, Uncle Eddie (always our Santa) came down with a stomach bug during dinner. We improvised, asking a neighbor, who was big enough, but nothing like Eddie! He agreed. But did the suit fit? No. Did the beard fit? No. We had a saggy, poorly stuffed Santa with a weak Ho, Ho, Ho!
Editor Mark Savage Art Director Tom Ford
EDITORIAL Senior Editor Aaron Skinner Associate Editor Mark Hembree Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash Editorial Associate Monica Freitag
ART Illustrator Kellie Jaeger Photographer William Zuback Production Coordinator Cindy Barder
R ! ITO ES ED ORIT FAV
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KALMBACH PUBLISHING CO. CEO Dan Hickey Senior VP Sales & Marketing Daniel R. Lance Vice President, Content Stephen C. George Vice President, Consumer Marketing Nicole McGuire Advertising Director Ann E. Smith Art and Production Manager Michael Soliday Circulation Director Liz Runyon New Business Manager Cathy Daniels Retention Manager Kathy Steele Single Copy Specialist Kim Redmond
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from FineScale Modeler ence ls can make all the differ too g lin de mo st be the Using aircraft, and finishing your model when you’re assembling eler editors of FineScale Mod the d ke as we So r. mo ar ship, or dations. to share their recommen zens of nishing tools, you’ll find do fi to s ck sti ing nd sa m Fro ch Hobby shop online at the Kalmba essential tools when you ed! editor tested and approv Store. Best of all, they’re
Shop modeling tools at ols To y b b o /H m o .c re to S y b b o H ch a b lm a K Sales tax where applicable.
6 FineScale Modeler December 2017
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Settling in for a build After almost two years of settling into our new home, I was finally able to set up a comfortable work space and continue my many projects. (Thanks goes out to my wife, Lisa, and two young daughters, Genevieve and Angeline.) I have plenty of room for just about anything, and all my tools are within easy reach. I also have a special desk to work on. It is a wood bunk from an Oberon-class submarine of the Royal Canadian Navy. As I am originally from Halifax, Nova Scotia, I would often see these submarines passing through the harbor. Once they were decommissioned, they were stripped before being sold. I was fortunate to obtain the bunk, which I flipped over, attached some legs to, and turned into a nice, long work space. (More thanks goes out to my older brother, Richard, for getting the bunk for me).
’Tis the season — for modeling! Hoping for kits this gift-giving time of year? Spending any time off at the workbench? Share photos of your work-in-progress and complete builds (edible or not) with us on Facebook.
We all have motivations for building; I have a number, but to get something published in your magazine was near the top of the list. I can’t tell you how good it felt to see it there! So now that I have that out of the way, I guess I can move on to other things. Hmmm… I do have about 500 unbuilt kits in my basement — most of which I want/ intend to build. Get ready for more submissions!
– Joseph Cournoyer Albany, Ga.
Complete with a personalized toolbox
Art on the walls and workbench I decorated my hobby room with amazing artwork that I find inspiring. This is a very comfortable space in which to model. I am a big fan of FineScale Modeler magazine. Keep up the good work, please, and thank you. – Mitchell Smith North Houston, Texas
As a Tamiya addict, I was pleased with the toolbox that my kids personalized for me as a present for Father’s Day some years ago. I made the paint stand from plywood. For airbrushing, I use a cardboard spray booth (I only spray water-based paints). I am currently working on an Italeri 1/9 scale motorcycle. – Luk Vanstappen Mechelen, Belgium
One down, 500 to go I wanted to thank you folks very much for putting my SAS Land Rover in the September Reader Gallery.
– Bill Horton West Hartford, Conn.
No one to blame but ourselves I recently took my daughter to camp up in the mountains and drove past my local hobby shop. The sign said, “Store closing — everything must go.” I realized it’s probably my fault. My last two purchases were through online retailers, with a couple of buys at bigger hobby shops. I had not stepped foot inside the small store for a long time. I wonder how many others had also ignored the shop. I’ll miss going in, seeing new items, and just browsing around aimlessly. Such a www.FineScale.com
The Spaceship Enthusiasts’ One-Stop Data Shop!
Available Again! Lost in Space Design: “No Place to Hide” by Robert Rowe
On the twice-monthly New Product Rundown (NPRD), anything goes! While Aaron Skinner and Elizabeth Nash usually review new scale models, bouts of slam poetry are liable to break out. Stay tuned to see what happens next.
x x x x
80 pages on 80# coated stock 9” x 12”, Softcover, Perfectbound 140 photos, illustrations and tables Newly Updated Technical Appendix
Robert Rowe was given unlimited access to the Fox Television archives when researching /RVWLQ6SDFH. To make this information available to the show’s fans world-wide, Robert has produced the definitive work on the creation of the series and its original pilot episode, “No Place to Hide.”
Only $19.95! (plus shipping)
Coming Soon! Fourteen US Army Missiles of the Cold War by Peter Alway
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ARA Press 785 Jefferson Ave. Livermore, CA 94550 (925) 583-5126 www.arapress.com 8 FineScale Modeler December 2017
Poetry and modeling? You bet! Big fan of the NPRD! It’s informative and fun. I love all the goofy skits Aaron and Elizabeth perform. A few months ago, you asked for viewers to send in modeling-related poetry. Well, here’s mine: It’s more than just putty, paint, and thinner that separates the master from the beginner. It’s gluing and sanding and correcting mistakes It’s patience and care that’s what it takes. It’s working through failures and more than just one,
shame, but there’s nobody to blame but ourselves … and the convenience of online ordering. – James Stangroom Star Junction, Pa.
Cat attack September’s Editor’s Page asked us to share our biggest modeling miscue, mistake, and meltdown. Miscue: Little Miss Bebe, the feline culprit in this story, had been sitting, watching me as I worked on a model of the Cutty Sark from Academy. I thought this was harmless. Mistake: Even though I had noticed that she would bite on the yardarms and masts of another model — the USS
then reading in FineScale what you should’ve done. With new skills, your model won’t resemble a toy. You’ll find it’s the craftsmanship you most enjoy! The result can be a masterpiece of the modeler’s art, and this all could be yours, if only you’d start! – Ken Murphy University Place, Wash. Ed.: Are you a poet/modeler? We want to hear your verse! Email [email protected] com with your free verse, sonnet, limerick, or haiku, and it may be featured on NPRD.
Constitution — I did not think she would attack the Cutty Sark! Meltdown: I turned around to get something. When I turned back, Little Miss Bebe had assaulted the model! Half the Cutty Sark’s deck was in ruins. All I could do was cry. Lesson learned: Keep Bebe and the other cats out of my room while working. And when the models are not being worked on, they are now under glass. – Charles Myrick Buchanan, Ga.
Flashback to 1991 Just wanted to say how I’ve enjoyed the FSM magazine and website for many, many years. I think I have every issue dating back
In the December 1991 issue, Greg Kerry superdetailed scale motorcycles and, incidentally, inspired Lee Mitcheltree to strive for more when building.
to 1993 on my bookshelf. The first issue I ever saw was pre-internet; some guy did an awesome detail job on a Tamiya 1/12 scale Suzuki RG500 Grand Prix bike. That article (in the December 1991 issue) completely opened my eyes and made me see that there was so much more I could do to create a scale replica. Your passion, efforts, assistance, tutorials, and generosity with sharing tips and techniques has undeniably helped me increase my skills — to the point where I am building exclusively for contract and spending my spare time creating masters, making molds, and casting them in resin. I greatly value what you do for all of us, and am grateful I discovered your magazine. – Lee Mitcheltree Everett, Wash.
Modeler’s block, be gone! I now understand why writers feel so frustrated by the dreaded “writer’s block” — I had, for some years, been suffering from “modeler’s block.” When I had spare time, I would be trawling the internet for images, reading reviews, or perusing my books, hoping to make my model as accurate as possible. I even tried to find pictures of World War II Byelorussian fences so that my Operation Bagration diorama would look just right! Needless to say, not much progress was
made when it came to actual modeling. I then visited WASMEx, a large model show in Perth, Western Australia, where I had an epiphany. The junior section contained, among other things, a MiG-15 with a colorful nail-varnished finish, and a bright blue Sherman with racing stripes! Of course, they didn’t look like any example seen in service. But did the kids love them? Yes. Were they proud of their achievements? You bet, and rightly so. Yet here was I, worried whether my Opel Blitz should have six or eight wheel nuts — not even close to cutting a part from the sprue for fear of getting some minor detail wrong. My kits are not made for anyone else; they are rarely entered in competitions or submitted to magazines. They are my hobby. Making them is what I do for pleasure. Those Australian children taught me to let go, to build what I want, and not to worry about the rivet-counters. My Opel Blitz won’t be fluorescent orange, but it will have the six-nut wheels that came with the kit, be they right or wrong. My collection of completed kits is starting to grow, and they look just fine to me. More importantly, I’m enjoying my modeling again, and my modeler’s block has been vanquished. – Pete Sparkes Hunterville, Rangitikei, New Zealand
Correction In the October 2017 Reader Gallery, Paul Meier’s uncle is John W. Haun.
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NEW PRODUCTS Compiled by Monica Freitag & Aaron Skinner
Tamiya Archer hits target for ease of build
ollowing the release of the Valentine tank in mid-2017, Tamiya (www.tamiyausa.com) follows with a 1/35 scale Archer selfpropelled antitank gun (No. 35356, $66). It makes sense, given that the Archer was built on the Valentine’s chassis. More than 650 were pro-
duced during World War II and the vehicle saw service in Northwest Europe and Italy. This kit shares some suspension and link-and-length tracks with the Valentine, but everything else is new including the upper hull, which is molded with the fenders. Sharp detail, including multi-
part louvers, marks the engine deck. But the real highlight is the fighting compartment with a driver’s position, racks of ammo, weld seams outside, and the rear-facing 17-pounder with breech, controls, and a one-piece barrel. Three figures finish the scene.
Decals provide markings for two Archers in early 1945, one in Canadian service in early 1945, the other with the Polish II Corps in Italy.
AIRCRAFT KITS 1/32 SCALE
Bf 109G-4 from Eduard, No. 82117, $39.96. ProfiPack Edition.
AH-64D Longbow Apache from Italeri, No. 2748, $39.99. Upgraded molds. Includes 5 marking options: American, British, Japanese, Dutch, and United Arab Emirates.
T-28C Trojan from Kitty Hawk, No. KH32015, $80. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.
Bf 110F from Eduard, No. 8207, $59.96. ProfiPack Edition.
MiG-15UTI Finnish Air Force from Platz, No. AE-4, $27. Eduard plastic and Cartograf decals.
Su-27SM2/3 Flanker B Updated Roland C.II from Eduard, No. 8043, $27.96.
from Platz, No. AE-5, $55. Zvevda plastic and Cartograf decals.
Hunter F.6/FGA.9 from Italeri, No. 2772, $44.99. Includes markings for five aerobatic or airshow performance aircraft.
Fokker Dr.I from Eduard, No. 8162, $31.96.
10 FineScale Modeler December 2017
ARMOR KITS 1/9 SCALE
T-2 late type JASDF Advanced supersonic trainer from Platz, No. AC-21:2800, $27. Typhoon K from Takom, No. 2082, $55. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.
Kettenkrad from Italeri, No. 7404, $99.99.
1/56 SCALE 1/35 SCALE
EF-2000 Typhoon from Italeri, No. 72001, $31.99. Starter kit: acrylic paints, brush, liquid cement, sprue cutter and online video tutorial.
M3A1 Half-track from Warlord Games, Kurganets-25 IFV Object 695 from Panda
No. 402013010, $27. Designed for Bolt Action World War II wargame.
Models, No. PH-35023, $55.
CMP F15 Cab 11 4x2 water truck from A-6E TRAM Intruder — Gulf War from
Mirror Models, No. 35166, $64.95.
Cromwell Cruiser tank from Warlord Games,
Italeri, No. 1392, $22.99. Cartograf decals for 2 aircraft.
No. 402011003, $32. Designed for Bolt Action World War II wargame. .
Russian 152mm self-propelled Howitzer MSTA-S from Zvezda, No. 3630, $66.99. Opel Blitz/Maultier from Warlord Games, Lightning F.6 Royal Air Force from Platz,
No. 402012018, $29. Designed for Bolt Action World War II wargame.
No. FC-6, $24. Flying Color Selection. Contains 2 kits. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.
NEW PRODUCTS Spotlight
Get a handle on figure painting with HobbyZone USA
ne of the challenges when painting figures is hanging onto them. Small and often fragile it can be difficult to hold them at a spot that doesn’t need to be painted. Keeping them steady while doing fine detail work adds to the frustration, not to mention finding a place for
them as they dry that avoids potential damage. HobbyZone USA (www.hobbyzone.biz), known for its workbench storage modules, has a neat solution with its Painter Grip (No. PG01; $32.95). Two sturdy MDF pieces held together with an adjust-
able turn screw, clamp the model in place. Then the clamp, which is wrapped in leather, becomes a handle that fits comfortably in your hand and is easily turned to reach all sides of the figure. A slotted stand supports the idle handle at two angles.
The Bonsai - Matsu from Platz, No. BONJapanese Type 4 HO-RO assault gun from
Warlord Games, No. 402416004, $35. Designed for Bolt Action World War II wargame.
OTHER SCALE British Airborne WWII Allied Paratroopers
from Warlord Games, No. 402011009, $21.67. Bolt Action.
Doctor Who Exterminate! from Warlord Games, No. 602010101, $20.83. Davros & The New Dalek Empire expansion set. Time Vortex.
C3 Strike Squads & Support Drones from Warlord Games, No. WGA-CON-16, $32. Beyond the Gates of Antares.
On the Great Plains Indian Family with horse and accessories from Master Box Ltd., No. 35189, $19.95.
Wehrmacht tank crew set from
MISCELLANEOUS KITS 1/12 SCALE
Tamiya, No. 35354, $18.50.
Doctor Who from Warlord Games, No. 602210010, $32. Tenth Doctor & Companions. For Time Vortex miniatures game.
The Bonsai - Shinpaku from Platz, No. BON-03, $15. 12 FineScale Modeler December 2017
Australian Jungle Division Infantry Section from Warlord Games, No. 402215001, $24.95. 10 metal 28mm WWII miniatures.
Fujitsu Ten Tom’s Corolla AE101 from Italeri, No. 20302, $52.99.
1/25 SCALE Hail Caesar — Macedonian Successors War Elephant from Warlord Games, No.
’59 Chevy El Camino from MPC,
102614002, $32. Metal and resin Macedonain Successor elephant with five crew.
No. AMT1058/12, $31.95. Special Release Original Art Series. Includes print suitable for framing.
’64 Ford Fairlane Thunderbolt from Revell, No. 85-4408, $22.95.
Bf109G wheels ribbed hub, ribbed tire Kevin Harvick Jimmy John’s Ford Fusion
from Barracudacast, No. BR24325, $12.95.
from Revell, No. 85-4218, $26.95.
1/32 SCALE ’92 Mazda Miata MX-5 from Revell, No. 85-4432, $22.95.
Mercedes AMG GT3 from Tamiya, No. 24345, $66.
Spitfire four slot mainwheels from Barracudacast, No. BR32335, $8.95.
Sopwith Camel wicker seat with cushion from Barracudacast, No. BR32332, $6.50.
’83 Camaro Z28 from AMT, No. AMT1051/12, $29.95.
Spitfire 4 slot block tread mainwheels from Barracudacast, No. BR32319, $8.95.
Spitfire 4 slot mainwheels from Barracudacast, No. BR48317, $7.50.
Spitfire 4 slot block tread mainwheels from Barracudacast, No. BR48318, $6.95.
Welcome new manufacturers Lamborghini Miura from Italeri, No. 72002, $37.99. Starter kit: Contains paints, brush, liquid cement, sprue cutter, and online video tutorial.
Warlord Games www.warlordgames.com www.FineScale.com
NEW PRODUCTS AIRCRAFT DECALS
1/48 SCALE Matra R-530 from
Eduard, No. 648 324, $12.95.
MiG-15 UTI exterior from Platz, No. M-72-40. Contact your local dealer for price information. Spitfire Mk.VIII top cowl for Eduard from Eduard, No. 648 338, $4.95.
Ammo belts 12.7mm from Eduard, No. 648
Ride of the Valkyries — The UH-1D in Vietnam
Walrus Mk.I wheels from Eduard, No. 648 343, $9.95.
from Werner's Wings, No. WW48-14, $16.
P-51D steel seatbelts for Meng from
UH-1D/H stencils from Werner's Wings, No. WW48-15, $10.
Eduard, No. FE851, $7.95.
Walrus Mk.I steel seatbelts for Airfix from
MiG-15 UTI landing flaps from Platz, No.
Eduard, No. FE849, $9.95.
M-72-41. Contact your local dealer for price information.
Walrus Mk.I flexible mask for Airfix from Eduard, No. EX557, $12.95.
Walrus Mk.I interior for Airfix from Eduard,
No. 49848, $36.95.
1/35 SCALE Spanish Civil War Condor Legion Pt 1
Spanish Civil War Condor Legion Pt 2
from Hannants/ Xtradecal, No. X72274, $10.57. Nationalist fighter & ground-attack collection.
from Hannants/ Xtradecal, No. X72275, $10.57. Nationalist fighter & ground-attack collection.
Dornier Do 215 B-1/B-2/B-4/B-5 Walrus MK.I exterior for Airfix from Eduard,
Valentine Mk.II/IV canister holder for Tamiya from Eduard, No. 36361, $19.95.
No. 48929, $19.95.
Valentine Mk.II/IV for Tamiya from Eduard, No. 36359, $34.95.
MiG-15 UTI interior from Platz, No. M-72-39. Contact your local dealer for price information.
14 FineScale Modeler December 2017
from Hannants/ Xtradecal, No. X72277, $10.57. Also available in 1/48 X48181.
Vought F-8 Crusader Development of the Navy's First Supersonic jet fighter No. SP242S, $44.95, by William D. Spidle, hardcover, 228 pages, 105 color photos, 326 B&W blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-5800725-8-8. From Specialty Press.
Objective Saint-Lô 7 June 1944 18 July 1944, US Navy Squadron Histories - No. 302 From Bats to Rangers, $69.95, by Ginter Books, softcover, 240 pages, 661 photos and illustrations black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-09968258-9-4. From Specialty Press.
$39.95, by Geroges Bernage, hardcover, 256 pages, all blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47385760-5. From Pen & Sword Books Limited.
SS DAS Reich at War 1939-1945 A History
Israeli Shermans — Second Edition, $80,
of the Division on the Western and Eastern Fronts Images of War - $22.95, by Ian Baxter, softcover, 144 pages, all black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 978-1-47389089-3. From Pen & Sword Books Limited.
by Tom Gannon, hardcover, 406 pages, 375 black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-184768-023-5. From Barbarossa Books.
Yom Kippur — No Peace, No War, October 1973, $22.95, by Peter Baxter, softcover, 128 pages, all black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 978-1-52670790-1. From Pen & Sword Books Limited.
AV-8B Model — How to build Hasegawa's AV-8B II Plus model, $35.99, by Glenn Hoover, softcover, 187 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-1-54807005-2. From Glenn Hoover Plastic Model Builds LLC.
Malayan Emergency — Triumph of the Running Dogs 1948-1960, $22.95, by Gerry Van Tonder, softcover, 128 pages, all B&W photos, ISBN: 978-1-52670786-4. From Pen & Sword Books Limited.
AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING By Aaron Skinner
Colors for a veteran Aardvark Freehand camouflage on a detailed F-111
Canopy: To show the detailed resin cockpit, Kelly slowly and carefully cut the one-piece canopy apart with a UMM-USA fine razor saw and posed the hatches open.
espite a relatively low production run — only 566 built — and a troubled development that stemmed from trying to produce both a naval interceptor and an Air Force strike aircraft, the F-111 went on to be a potent weapon. The first production aircraft with variable-sweep wings, it could operate in weather that grounded other aircraft and carry out missions without tanker or electronic countermeasure support. Combat experiences of the Aardvark include Southeast Asia in the early 1970s, the Gulf War, and the 1986 raid on Libya. Kelly Quirk, of Platte City, Mo., modified Academy’s 1/48 scale F-111F with a resin cockpit from Black Box, and resin wheels, exhausts, Pave Tack targeting pod, and AN/ALQ-131 ECM pod from Scaledown. The laser-guided bombs and Sidewinder missiles came from his spareparts box. “I braced the front and rear halves of the fuselage internally for a better fit,” Kelly says about building the F-111. “This is definitely the weak part of the Academy kit, and this helped a great deal.” To paint USAF tactical camouflage on the model, he applied Testors Model
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Master enamels with an Iwata Eclipse double-action airbrush. Power for the brush came from a Kobalt compressor with a 4-gallon tank and an in-line moisture trap. For better flow, he mixes 2 parts paint with 3 parts Model Master airbrush thinner and dials the pressure to 10-12 psi. “That’s just what works for me,” he says. “I do not prime my models in general. However, I do a lot of spot-checking with flat black enamel. This serves two purposes: one, to check my seams and scribing, the other, to give a bit of pre-shading.” Model Master has the basic camouflage colors but Kelly altered them for dramatic effect. “The dark green (No. 1710) is straight from the bottle, the medium green (No.2112) and dark tan (No. 2004) were lightened slightly,” he says. He painted the upper-surface camouflage freehand starting with tan, then medium green, and finally dark green. “I did some minor post-shading with slightly lighter shades of the camo colors,” he says. After masking, he sprayed the radome and underside black and the tip of the vertical stabilizer red. Modest post-shading tied the underside into the other camouflage colors. FSM
FOD covers: To make intake covers, Kelly stuffed packing foam into the openings and covered them with tissue soaked in white glue. Red paint and decals finished the job.
Nicknamed Aardvark early in its career, the F-111 was not officially given that title until its USAF retirement in 1996.
Meet Kelly Quirk AFTER MODELING ON and off through his teens, Kelly picked up the hobby seriously in 1988 and hasn’t stopped since. He says he’s been blessed to win top awards at several major contests, including
Tamiya/Con, the IPMS/ USA Nationals, and MasterCon. Several of his models can be seen in museums, including the USS Missouri at Pearl Harbor, Hawaii. While his main focus is
Markings: Kelly used an Afterburner Decals set to mark the model as an Aardvark of the 494th Fighter Squadron, based at RAF Lakenheath in 1992. This aircraft flew 56 combat sorties during Operation Desert Storm in 1991 and took part in Operation El Dorado Canyon, the 1986 strike against Libya.
Washes: Kelly sealed the decals between layers of Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish, then applied a wash of dark brown artist’s oils to the entire model. He let the wash dry, then wiped the F-111 with lint-free rags, always finishing by dragging the cloth in the direction of airflow. An old, wide paintbrush reached tight spots to blend everything. “For vents or deep recesses, I use black oils,” he says.
modern 1/48 scale modern jets and helicopters, he also dabbles in World War II props, 1/35 scale armor, and 1/350 scale ships. Active in IPMS, Kelly founded a chapter in Kansas City and recently
retired as Region 5 coordinator. When not at the bench, he runs his foodpackaging business with his wife of 22 years, son, sister, nephew, brother-inlaw, and many other employees.
Pastels: Over a layer of Testors Dullcote, Kelly applied powdered pastels to areas in need of extra dirt and grime.
Metallics: Kelly base-coated the metal areas around the exhausts with Testors Model Master jet exhaust. Then, airbrushing freehand, he applied various metallic shades followed by a dusting of Tamiya clear blue, clear purple, and clear orange. The key is to be subtle with the transparent colors, he says.
FORM & FIGURE By Joe Hudson
Guns, guns, guns! Painting personal weapons is all about metallics and wood grain
f you are modeling soldiers from just about any era, you’ll need to paint guns — that means everything from rifles to pistols to submachine guns. Some have wooden stocks, others may include pressed metal, and all will have machined parts. To demonstrate some of my favorite techniques, I painted German World War II weapons from several Dragon 1/35 scale figure sets. These are some of the nicest plastic guns available. I used handmade brushes from The Brushman, David Jackson ([email protected]). Use one brush for metallic paints and another for other colors. In 1/35 scale, these things are small and kind of awkward to hold onto during painting. I stuck them in blobs of Blu-Tack poster putty on a cork handle. Next Issue What better way to follow a description of painting guns than with the hands that hold them. Joe shows you how in January.
Paints used Andrea Black Ink from the Andrea Ink Set Vallejo Model Color Oxford Blue 70.807 Vallejo Model Color Woodgrain 70.828 Vallejo Model Color Mahogany Brown 70.846 Vallejo Model Color Oily Steel 70.865 Vallejo Model Color Chocolate Brown 70.872 Vallejo Model Color Japan Uniform WWII 70.923 Vallejo Model Color Smoke 70.939
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Vallejo Model Color Black 70.950 Vallejo Model Color Orange Brown 70.981 Vallejo Model Color Flat Earth 70.983 Vallejo Model Color Deck Tan 70.986 Vallejo Panzer Aces Light Rubber 73.305 Vallejo Surface Primer Gray 73.601 Vallejo Surface Primer Gloss Black 73.660 Vallejo Metal Color Gun Metal Gray 77.720
1 Over an airbrushed layer of Vallejo gray primer, I brushed Vallejo gloss black primer on the metal areas of an MP40. I kept the black thin because the weapons are small and have fine detail that thick paint would obscure.
4 This is not dry-brushing; I am making conscious decisions about color placement. This gives me control over the final appearance and prevents detail from being covered.
7 To base-coat the pistol grip, I mixed flat black and Panzer Aces light rubber. After washing it with the thin black ink to darken recesses, I painted raised features with pure light rubber.
2 Two Bakelite panels sit on either side of MP40s. I painted each with several layers of thin Vallejo flat earth. This won’t be the final color, but blocking them in now helps me paint them later.
5 To reinforce the highlights, I mixed Vallejo oily steel and gun metal gray and applied it to ridges and upper surfaces. The areas that would receive the most light were painted with almost pure oily steel.
8 I touched up the Bakelite panels with flat earth, then dabbed on a little Japan uniform for tonal variety.
3 Then I brushed thin Vallejo Metal Color gun metal gray over the barrel, magazine, and receiver. Using thin layers, I gradually increased the density.
6 After brushing flat black into shadows and areas that could be separated from one another, I applied an overall thin glaze of Andrea black ink; be careful, and don’t use it undiluted.
9 Next, I applied a thin glaze mixed from Oxford blue and black to darken the Bakelite. After highlighting the edges with light rubber, I outlined the details with black. www.FineScale.com
I painted the metal on the Kar 98K like the MP40, but over flat black, rather than gloss, for a slightly different appearance. Then I basecoated the wood with Japan uniform WWII.
Using a fine brush, I painted thin, random lines of Vallejo chocolate brown along the gun’s stock. I repeated that process with flat black, but applied fewer lines.
Then I applied lines of Vallejo deck tan. In addition to wood grain, this color also served as a highlight shade. So, I brushed it onto upper areas of the stock.
Several thin coats of Vallejo wood grain blended the underlying stripes and produced a varnished appearance.
I brushed Vallejo orange brown onto a few spots and stripes, then applied a final glaze of wood grain. Outlining the metal areas with flat black finished the rifle.
For a different look on the Gewehr 43 stock , I applied a base coat of mahogany brown darkened with a touch of flat black. I finished the metal components like the other guns.
Instead of long streaks, I brushed short tick marks of flat black over the mahogany brown.
Lighter tick marks followed as I applied a mix of orange brown and Japan uniform.
To blend the grain, a thin glaze of Vallejo smoke was painted over the wood for a more weathered appearance than the varnished stock on the Kar 98K. Thin, flat black outlines on the metal parts finished the weapon. FSM
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Mar a Marauder Clever detailing inside and worn paint outside for a B-26 /// BY WOLFGANG BUGL
espite its reputation as a “hot ship” that required constant attention and earned nicknames like “Widow Maker” and “Martin Murderer,” the B-26 served admirably through World War II. Operated by U.S. 9th Air Force squadrons based in the United Kingdom, the medium bomber was known for bombing accuracy. Wonderfully molded, Hasegawa’s 1/72 scale Marauder shows all the characteristics of a modern kit: fine, recessed panel lines mark external surfaces, there’s good detail inside, and the canopy and other window parts are crystal clear. But that doesn’t mean it can’t be improved. I enhanced the details, then painted it with well-worn camouflage befitting a veteran bomber in the Mediterranean.
Cockpit The cockpit subassembly incorporates the bombardier’s compartment. A decent level of detail highlights the instrument panel and center console. The instrument panel’s recessed gauges and dials, bezels, and the throttle quadrant and levers are all crisply molded, 1. I dressed up the pilot seats with photoetched belts from an old Eduard set.
Martin did not use green zinc chromate primer everywhere inside B-26s. Rather, it was painted only in crew spaces; how it was applied varied between individual aircraft. On some Marauders, it was applied to all surfaces, on others it was used only on structural frames. Going with the former option, I airbrushed all of the interior surfaces with GSI Creos interior green acrylic (H58), 2. www.FineScale.com
1 I carefully picked out details on the instrument panel’s recessed dials and the throttle quadrant’s levers. The moldings are terrific, but much of it will be nearly invisible once the fuselage is closed.
3 Stretching wire across the structural members gives the well-molded detail in the wheel bay even more of a 3-D effect.
5 Copper wire held in place with clamps made from thin copper sheet provided brake lines on the main gear. 22 FineScale Modeler December 2017
2 Brown artist’s oil washes highlighted details and added a touch of grime to the cockpit.
4 Mimicking the unpainted bays of the B-26, I painted the parts a metallic shade.
6 Aft of the bomb bay, the aircraft features the base for the dorsal turret, frames for the low waist positions, and the tail gunner’s seat.
There’s no detail in the radio room, but there are windows. I covered the fishing sinkers with sheet styrene painted interior green to hide the ballast from prying eyes.
I drilled holes into the ignition ring and inserted copper wire. The other ends go to holes drilled in the cylinders.
Detail painting, dark washes, and dry-brushing brought out the engine’s crisply molded cooling fins and push rods.
Adding rivets to the wings before gluing the halves made the job a snap; the parts lay flat on my workbench, providing a steady surface.
The nose-wheel bay is molded under the cockpit floor. I detailed it with copper wire for hydraulic lines and strips of masking tape for brackets, 3. I painted it and the components for the main landing gear bays in the engine nacelles Alclad II white aluminum (ALC-106), 4. I assembled the undercarriage, then detailed it with wire hydraulics, 5.
I installed the cockpit, bomb bay, and rear crew positions in the starboard fuselage half, 6. Before adding the port half, I filled the radio/navigation room aft of the cockpit with sinkers as ballast, 7. The canopy didn’t quite fit and revealed a small gap at the top; careful sanding and filling eliminated the problem. The wings and stabilizers went together without problems. The three-part horizontal tail plane was molded in clear plastic to account for small windows under the rudder. Putty and sanding eliminated seams and minor sink marks; sheet styrene replaced a raised panel aft of the cockpit that straddles the centerline. Hasegawa did a nice job on the Pratt & Whitney R-2800 radials, but I wired the ignition system, 8, then carefully painted the power plants, 9.
Bomb bay I planned to pose the doors open. Detail molded onto the bomb bay’s bulkheads and roof pops with washes over airbrushed interior green. The roof incorporates large locating tabs for the wings that set dihedral. I left the racks and four 1,000-pound bombs and fragile door actuators off for painting. Hasegawa provides a separate part to close the bay that’s perfect for masking the bay during painting.
Sources B-26 Marauder gun barrels, Quickboost (No. QB 72088), www.quickboost.net. Available from www.spruebrothers.com.
References Martin B-26 Vol. II, Jacek Nowicki & Andre R. Zbiegniewski, Wydawnictwo Militaria, ISBN 978-83-7219-270-7 Martin B-26 Marauder (Warbird Tech Vol. 29), Frederick A. Johnson, Specialty, ISBN 978-1-58007-181-9 B-26 Marauder Units of the Eighth and Ninth Air Forces, Jerry Scutts, Osprey, ISBN 978-1-85532-637-8
The assembled fuselage didn’t stand up to riveting pressure as well as the wings, forcing me to repair seams a couple of times.
With masks on the windows, landing lights, nose, tail, turret opening, and engine cowls, the airframe sits ready to be painted. I painted the canopy frames interior green to match the cockpit.
The keys to filters are varying the density of the colors and ensuring each layer is dry before adding the next. I used four colors brushed on during several sessions over several days.
There’s no strict guideline as to when the job is done. I think I’m done when all of the gloss is gone and the finish is flat.
After brushing dark artist’s oils over the panel lines under the plane and letting them dry, I wiped away the excess.
A coat of acrylic clear flat sealed the deal and blended the camouflage, decals, and weathering.
24 FineScale Modeler December 2017
Quickboost gun barrels
Washes Tamiya Weathering Master on tires
In addition to small parts like landing gear and props, I chipped the paint with dabs of silver applied with a fine brush.
Riveting surfaces Before adding the nacelles to the wings, I decided to enhance the surface with rivets. Referring to drawings, I penciled lines of rivets on the plastic and rolled a ponce wheel along them, 10. The relatively flat wings were easily marked, but the curved fuselage proved challenging. I needed to apply enough pressure to mark the plastic, but using too much deformed parts and cracked seams. I repaired more than one such fissure. The added realism made the effort worthwhile, 11. The engine nacelles fit the wings perfectly. The wings match the roots, but I left them off for basic painting so I could better reach awkward areas between the fuselage and nacelles, 12.
Painting and decaling After pre-shading panel lines and rivets under the wings, tail planes, and fuselage with dark gray and dark brown, I airbrushed the undersides with LifeColor neutral gray (UA046). I masked the wavy demarcation line between the colors and applied LifeColor olive drab (UA005) to upper surfaces. More masking followed so I could spray the front of each cowl Tamiya red (X-7).
Several coats of Tamiya clear (X-22) prepared the Marauder for decals. Using the kit sheet, I marked the aircraft as Miss Manchester with the 441st Bombing Squadron, Italy, 1944. A little decal solution settled the decals into panel lines. I sealed the decals with another coat of clear gloss.
Weathering Now for the most important and decisive step — weathering, which determines realism, in my opinion. Being a WWII aircraft, the Marauder should reflect its harsh working conditions, including stressed skin, and faded and stained paint. The challenge for modelers is reproducing the characteristic weathering seen in photos and translating it in scale. I started by applying a series of thin layers of raw sienna, raw umber, red, blue, and green artist’s oils thinned with white spirit (mineral spirits). Brushing these filters randomly over the top and side surfaces subtly alters the underlying shade, 13. This is not a one-day job; it’s important to wait until a layer has dried before adding the next. Otherwise, the colors will mix and produce muddy, undesirable effects. I paid special attention to areas of high wear, such as the engine nacelles. These dif-
fer between aircraft, so it’s best to work from photos, 14. Before applying filters, I wet the area with clean white spirit. This helps the color flow better. If I’m unhappy with the result, I immediately apply clean white spirit to remove the color. A note of caution: Oil washes and white spirit can only be applied over acrylic paints; they will attack enamels. Under the plane, I applied the customary dark artist’s oil wash along panel lines, 15. Dry-brushing accentuated details, and simulated fluid stains on the nacelles and fuselage. After blending the finish with a coat of GSI Creos Aqueous Hobby Color clear flat, 16, I applied dots of silver paint along leading edges and panel lines to show chipped paint.
Final assembly After removing the masks, I added the ordnance, bomb-bay doors, and landing gear; the last was tricky because the parts are fragile. Next came the dorsal turret and the clear nose. For realism, I replaced the gun barrels with Quickboost resin. Propellers and antenna wires finished the Marauder and my first 1/72 scale aircraft. FSM www.FineScale.com
Knocked out on Iwo Jima Make Dragon’s 1/35 scale M4A2 one of the few, the proud /// BY JONATHAN LANGE
Modeling a U.S. Marines tank in the Pacific offers opportunities for different dioramas, color schemes, and interesting field fits — all of it heavily weathered by sun, salt air, and savage combat.
hile I am fascinated by most aspects of World War II, I have always been drawn to the Pacific Theater and what I consider the less-documented aspects of the war. The U.S. Marines’ tanks have always been of special interest, due to their color schemes, amphibious characteristics, and the many modifications by crews to counter Japanese tactics. I decided to derive this build from David E. Harper’s Tank Warfare on Iwo Jima (Squadron, ISBN 978-0-89747-559-4). The base kit is Dragon’s 1/35 scale “M4A2 Late PTO” (No. 6462), modified with bits and pieces from around my shop or cadged from friends. The mix of features was an opportunity to tackle some different customization ideas. 26 FineScale Modeler December 2017
1 Scratchbuilt wading trunks: I had an old set by Italeri, but so thick it looked like it was made from armor plates. Instead, I used the Italeri parts as patterns and built mine from .010-inch sheet styrene.
2 I spent more time researching and figuring out the trunks than actually building them. I reinforced seams with styrene strip and smoothed out the assembly with Squadron green putty.
4 For the turret, I dug out some leftover Panda T-54E1 tracks, cut off the treaded cleats, and transferred them to the kit’s DS tracks — thus avoiding having to dig up a new set of tracks for such a short run.
6 After completing basic construction, I prepped the entire vehicle by airbrushing with Vallejo Model Air gray primer.
8 … followed by selectively airbrushed Vallejo white for highlights to mimic the play of light on the tank and its features.
3 Wood planks and spare track add armor: Planks were offset to counter “lunge” mines held at the end of a 5-foot pole — essentially a pass-orfail test for the attacker. Basswood planks are mounted on styrene strips.
5 Sandbags made from Magic-Sculpt two-part putty: Roll out a 3⁄8-inch thick rope, cut to length, then shape and place. Closures are smaller rolls. Talcum powder and a wet brush make it easier to manipulate.
7 Next came pre-shading with Tamiya NATO black, hitting all the recesses, especially around the sandbags …
9 I began the camouflage with a base coat Tamiya olive green, and used a thin coat of Tamiya sky for highlights.
I placed rolls of Blu-Tack to mask as I began painting the tricolor camouflage. The second color was a mixture of Tamiya NATO red brown and Tamiya deck tan.
The third color was Tamiya khaki highlighted with a 1:1 mix of khaki and Tamiya buff. I painted the sandbags with the latter, lightening and darkening the mix to vary the look.
I applied paint chips with a 20/0 brush using Vallejo green gray, oversprayed with Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish, then detailed the chips with Vallejo black brown.
Corrugated tin roofing (scale version available from K & S Engineering) provided an extra layer of protection to the planks. It was often cut with serrated edges to discourage hitchhikers.
I added a dot filter using three colors of 502 Abteilung oils: shadow brown, olive green and three-tone fading. I applied a random pattern of dots to each panel and …
… with a flat brush, blended the colors with a series of downward strokes and a bit of paint thinner.
The filters lend depth and contrast to various surfaces, emphasizing details as they add subtle tints.
The unpainted tin looked darker than I wanted, so I applied a light coat of Tamiya sky gray before going to work on rust treatments, starting with black brown splotches and chips …
28 FineScale Modeler December 2017
… followed by washes of light rust and brown 502 Abteilung oils.
A thin filter of 502 Abteilung faded gray was applied in dots, then spread out …
… to replicate sun-bleached rusty metal. Since these tanks were weathered by amphibious operations and salt air, I worked to show active corrosion.
Next, the pigments: I applied a combination of Mig Productions dark mud, dry mud, and industrial city dirt in a wash, let it dry, then pulled off excess with a brush dampened with thinner, repeating as necessary.
For the base, the foundation of groundwork is insulation foam, easy to shave and shape. This is the beginning of the tank’s final pose.
I mixed up a base coating of plaster, then added texture with broken plaster, cast in slabs and smashed to resemble stone and concrete, mixed with multiple grades of railroad-scenery talus.
I base-coated the groundwork with Tamiya NATO black, followed with a coat of buff, then worked in various pigments. I made a tarp from Magic-Sculpt rolled out thin and sculpted with a wet paintbrush.
A Dragon Tarawa figure provides scale and drama. I used Magic-Sculpt to modify clothing and substituted a head from Hornet in telling the story of that desperate battle finally won in March 1945. FSM www.FineScale.com
In mid-June, Squadron hosted EagleQuest, its annual get-together and modeling contest in Grapevine, Texas. Feeling more like a friendly reunion than a modeling contest, the show attracts hundreds of modelers for two days of seminars, warehouse shopping, evening socializing and frivolity, and the peer-judged competition. FSM’s Aaron Skinner hit the road and snapped these photos.
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▲ MIKE STUCKER
SUGAR LAND, TEXAS Bending both genre and scale, Mike turned Emhar’s 1/35 scale Mark IV Tadpole into the 1/72 scale steampunk exploratory landship HMLS Aston Villa. Bits of Revell, Athern, Lindberg, and various other kits joined scratchbuilt details to form the behemoth’s superstructure. He painted the vehicle with Tamiya spray-can lacquers and Testors Model Master acrylics. 30 FineScale Modeler December 2017
▲ ROBERT MORRISON
CARROLLTON, TEXAS Taking an online challenge posed by Flory Models, Robert built Hasegawa’s 1/48 scale F6F-5 Hellcat in a weekend. The only changes he made to the kit were the addition of Eduard photoetched seat belts and applying aftermarket decals over Vallejo acrylics.
◀ RICHARD KERN
MAGNOLIA, TEXAS Modeling a loaded U.S. Army cargo truck from World War II, Richard filled the bed of Tamiya’s 1/35 scale 2½-ton CCKW with a variety of items from different manufacturers. He painted the vehicle with Testors Model Master, Tamiya, and Vallejo colors over black primer, then weathered with artist’s oil washes, pigments, and pastels. ▶ KENDALL BROWN
PLANO, TEXAS In 1917, the U.S. Navy tested the unique Gallaudet D-1, featuring a mid-mounted propeller spun by a pair of Duesenberg engines. Only one of the seaplanes was built, but that didn’t stop Kendall from scratchbuilding it in 1/48 scale using styrene and a variety of photo-etched parts for cars and aircraft. He painted the model with Humbrol and Testors Model Master enamels over Tamiya primer.
SHOW GALLERY ◀ GERMAN CANDIA JR.
MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE German painted Games Workshop’s 1/72 scale dreadlord on a dragon with Citadel acrylics over white primer. Acrylic washes emphasized details.
▶ DONALD PHILLIPS
CEDAR HILL, TEXAS Donald did a straight-from-thebox build of TV’s famous straight shooter, Lucas McCain, played by Chuck Connors in The Rifleman. After spraying Glory Guys’ 1/8 scale Cowboy with Trick Rifle with Tamiya primer, Donald basecoated major colors with Vallejo acrylics and hand-painted artist’s oils and acrylics for shading and details.
▲ RICHARD REGGIO
HAMMOND, LOUISIANA Building a seaplane like Sword’s 1/72 scale Arado Ar 196 means looking for the right display. Richard’s solution was to scratchbuild a catapult using styrene sheet and rod as well as wire. He painted the aircraft and catapult with Testors Model Master colors. 32 FineScale Modeler December 2017
◀ BILL ROBERTS
NICEVILLE, FLORIDA Building Special Hobby’s 1/48 scale T-2C Buckeye out of the box allowed Bill to focus on painting it in the colors the trainer wore while assigned to VT-43 at NAS Oceana in the 1980s. He applied AK Interactive enamel primer, then airbrushed the camouflage freehand with Mr. Paint acrylic lacquers. ▶ THOMAS M. LORE
GULF BREEZE, FLORIDA To build a better Corsair, Thomas modified HobbyBoss’ 1/72 scale F4U-4 with parts from other kits, including a propeller from an Italeri P-47D, fuel tanks and pylons from a Tamiya F4U-1, and a Tamiya P-47 gunsight. He cannibalized an Italeri F4U-5N for exhaust pipes, wheels, and landing gear struts. Sheet styrene filled gaps between the cowl flaps, and lenses from M.V. Products and CMK filled the lights. Flevo decals marked the fighter for an aircraft assigned to USS Boxer off Korea in 1951. ◀ DAN KING
POWAY, CALIFORNIA “It’s a car I would love to own,” says Dan of the Lotus Super Seven. Building Tamiya’s 1/24 scale kit, he plumbed and wired the engine, upholstered the seats and the tonneau cover with real leather, and replaced the plastic hood with aluminum. The body color is Testors Model Master metallic British green. FSM
Blue Angels A-4F, upgraded
Hasegawa’s 1/48 scale Skyhawk modeled as a Super Foxtrot /// BY DARREN ROBERTS
In the music video Dreams, the gravity-defying Blues soar to the music of Van Halen (whose hair was also gravity-defying). Rewatching his childhood favorite for research, Darren was inspired to build an accurate Super Foxtrot.
he ’80s was a great time to grow up. Great music, great movies, great clothes — OK, maybe not so much the clothes … One defining event of that seminal decade was the launching of MTV. You didn’t just hear the music, you could watch a video, too. There was one music video that I remember vividly: the Blue Angels celebrating their 40th anniversary with a video for the song Dreams by Van Halen. Never before had this 14-year-old gotten to be so “up close and personal” with the Blues. I would try to catch it on TV to record it onto a VHS tape. Don’t laugh — you know you did it, too! 34 FineScale Modeler December 2017
Wanting my own Blue Angels aircraft, I started with Hasegawa’s 1/48 scale A-4E/F. The Blues didn’t fly a standard F model, though; they flew a Super Foxtrot, which had an upgraded, more-powerful engine.
They also modified their A-4s to performance standards.
Cockpit and fuselage The Blues added extra padding around the inside of the canopy frame to keep pilots from banging their heads during routines. I used two-part epoxy putty for the padding, and a hobby knife to create the quilted pattern, 1. I replaced the seat with a moredetailed resin part. Blue Angels ejection seats were painted black rather than the gray typically seen in Skyhawks. A number of changes are needed to make an accurate fuselage. Steel Beach
The quilted padding is nothing more than crosshatching done with a hobby knife on two-part epoxy putty.
To re-pose the horizontal stabilizers, I cut away the molded sliding plates to make way for resin replacements.
The stabilizers fit into the resin sliding plates easily. Care was taken to ensure proper alignment.
Kit parts A3 and A4 blocked off the chaff and flare dispensers, which the Blue Angels don’t carry.
Accessories makes a resin set to update Hasegawa’s A-4E/F kit to a Super Foxtrot that includes larger intakes, 2. Because of the upgraded engine, the size of the intakes increased ever so slightly, creating a bulge at the front ends. The good news is it’s only noticeable when looking straight down on the intakes. Next, I cut away the sliding plates for the horizontal stabilizers and replaced them with resin from Steel Beach, 3. I took care to glue the plates symmetrically so as not to misalign the stabilizers later, 4. Before closing the fuselage, I installed the cockpit and intake trunking. Fishing
Parts from a resin set enlarged the engine intakes on each side of the fuselage.
The angled pipe injects paraffin directly into the exhaust, which is then dispensed in the form of colorful smoke under the “sugar scoop,” seen here on the finished model.
weights added to the nose ensured the model stood on its front gear. I installed the antenna on the spine behind the canopy. Because Blue Angel Skyhawks didn’t have chaff or flare dispensers, I blanked off those recesses with kit fuselage plugs with no molded-in buckets, 5. I attached the brake-parachute housing and the smoke oil pipe to the so-called “sugar scoop” above the exhaust, 6. This pipe is aimed diagonally and generates the smoke seen during the routines. To save weight, the Blues left off all of the electronic countermeasure (ECM) antennas, so I did as well.
Wings The most noticeable change to the Blue Angels A-4s is that the leading-edge slats were wired shut. To mimic this, I first cut off the slat rails that are molded onto the wings, 7. Hasegawa incorrectly molded a recessed bay behind the slat so it would fit flush with the wing when retracted. But the slat would actually sit on top of the wing. To correct this, a coarse sanding stick ground down the rear edge of the slat bay, blending it into the wing, 8. On the slats themselves, the two barricade fences were removed from the leading www.FineScale.com
Because the leading-edge slats are wired shut on Blue Angels A-4Fs, I removed the rails at the front.
To finish the conversion, I sliced and sanded away the slat wing fences. Be sure to leave the fence molded inboard of the slat bay.
I used the kit-supplied insert for the starboard wing root, but replaced the port insert with a resin ladder container.
Painting Because this project called for a smooth, glossy surface, the preparation before painting was extremely important. I sprayed an overall coat of Alclad II gray primer and lightly sanded with a cloth. 36 FineScale Modeler December 2017
Blue Angels Skyhawks were always fitted with the centerline pylon, even during shows, so I added it the belly.
edge, 9. The third barricade fence on the leading edge of the wing, just inboard of the slat, should remain in place. The centerline pylon was then installed, 10. On the starboard side, I added the wing root, which doesn’t contain an opening for the cannon, and a resin boarding-ladder container on the port side, 11.
I sanded down the back of the incorrect recessed bay, being careful to not disturb the vortex generators molded onto the wing.
Creating this finish required lot of prep work, making sure each layer of color was sanded perfectly. I mixed two shades of blue to achieve the iconic hue. Once the decals were on, I skipped the final coat of clear.
All of the polished metal areas, such as the slats, exhaust, intake lips, and leading edges of the tail and horizontal stabilizers, were sprayed with Testors Model Master enamel gloss black. I let that dry for a good five days, then sprayed Alclad II polished aluminum, which I masked off when it had dried. Next came the blue. Model Master has a color called Blue Angel blue, but it’s too dark. A touch of intermediate blue lightened it just enough. This mix was lightly misted over the entire model in four thin coats, preventing any orange peel effect. I let that dry five days as well.
Note that the wheel bays are white but the inside of the gear doors is blue. The inside of the flaps retained the red of the standard A-4s. I used a CAM Pro decal sheet (No. P48-024) that includes markings for all six single-seat display aircraft as well as the No. 7 two-seater. I skipped the final gloss coat as the blue color was almost a perfect match and the decals blended nicely. I decided to not risk that nice finish and left it alone, 12. After putting it on the shelf, I watched Dreams one more time: “Reach for the sky. Baby just spread your wings … ” FSM
Roll out a better
BB-8 Bandai’s foolproof kit with vibrant hues gets the thumbs-up BY JOHN CHUNG
Videos and more photos Search for Star Wars on FineScale.com to see hundreds more models from the movies.
Number of BB-8 units used in the making of Episode VII
ooking for a simple yet fun project, I turned to Bandai’s 1/12 scale BB-8 droid (No. 032205), first seen in Star Wars: The Force Awakens. This kit also includes the iconic R2-D2, which I saved for later. While I chose to repaint and weather the droid, these steps could easily be skipped as the parts are already brightly colored.
1 Clever engineering from Bandai allows parts to be painted on the sprues without hindering fit. The only section that required gap-filling super glue was the head, which comes in halves. The orange band near the top needed extra sanding to fit perfectly.
2 A base coat of Mr. Surfacer 1500 black primer covered the orange, silver, and white plastic.
3 Aiming for a worn and weathered look, I lightly sprayed Mr. Base White 1000 over the black. Varying its density allows the dark color to filter through, playing up the appearance of a well-used droid. Alclad II duraluminum went over the silver components.
4 Strangely, my custom orange blend, which looked identical to the sprue in the container, became too yellow once applied. I’d remedy this later.
5 Once BB-8 was thoroughly colorful, I assembled the six body rings. This was a no-fuss process as the parts simply clicked together onto a central chassis via keyed mounts.
6 Weathering with artist’s oils and a fine-tipped brush came next. Mixes of brown, black, and raw sienna simulated wear and chipping, especially near panel lines. Photos of the studio prop (and watching The Force Awakens over and over) provided good references. White panels have more brown stains on the edges, while the orange panels are scarred with black. Clear gloss sealed the oils. 38 FineScale Modeler December 2017
7 Time to fix the supposed-to-be-orange color. An OLFA rotary circle cutter was indispensable in making circular masks.
8 I sprayed Tamiya clear orange over the yellow. Now, BB-8 was beginning to look like itself.
Once the orange was dry, the white body panels were applied. Bandai supplied a number of small markings in decal and sticker form. A layer of Tamiya clear mixed with Mr. Color Thinner came next.
The kit provides BB-8’s lighter “thumb” as an optional detail that I elected to deploy. The mechanism, door interior, and cavity were painted Alclad II steel. No flame was provided, so I carved one from clear sprue and painted the tip Tamiya clear blue.
The large and small eyes of the droid are heavily-tinted transparent plastic. After masking the lenses, I airbrushed dark gray on the frames. I initially installed the kit’s antennas. However, the silver-and-black one was over-scale, so I fashioned a new one from stretched sprue.
I used a mounting base with a small tray to keep BB-8 from rolling away. Blu-Tack holds the droid’s head to the body, making it posable. I had a ball building this one. Now it’s time to start on its companion, R2-D2. FSM www.FineScale.com
▲ BRIAN HOFFMAN
▼ ERIK PEGLOW
BEDFORD, INDIANA Having bagged Italeri’s 1/35 scale kit, Brian cooked up his DUKW with all the trimmings: Eduard photo-etch, scratchbuilt spotlight, twisted wire to replace the winch cable, solder tie-downs, and a scratchbuilt engine and engine compartment with spare PE added. He painted with Vallejo colors, artist’s oil filters and washes, and Mig pigments. The barrels are from a Tamiya vehicle accessories set.
WERDER (HAVEL), BRANDENBURG, GERMANY Erik built Bandai’s 1/12 scale Sandtrooper and armed it with lethal jelly beans that it carries in a kit-bashed backpack. He painted his “Jelly Trooper” with “UV neon colors” and displayed it on a base made from wood, sand, plaster of paris, and oven-hardening Fimo.
40 FineScale Modeler December 2017
▲ NATHAN CAMARILLO
SEATTLE, WASHINGTON Bumping up his Bradley, Nathan added masking-tape bag straps and stretched-sprue antennas to Tamiya’s 1/35 scale M2A2. By the time he finished with Testors Model Master acrylic paint, Mig washes, and Tamiya weathering powders, he had spent 80 hours on the build.
▲ MAX LACOBARA
MIAMI, FLORIDA Max built Ardpol’s 1/72 scale Aeromarine 39B as it appeared at NAS Pensacola in 1917. In 1922, a 39B was the first airplane to land on an American aircraft carrier (USS Langley). www.FineScale.com
▲ DAVE WELCH
FORT WAYNE, INDIANA Paying an imaginative tribute to the online video game World of Tanks in three dimensions and 1/35 scale, Dave pitted Meng’s FT-17 against Parc Models’ MS-1. For the base, he pulled ruins out of his spares box and added plaster work, balsa-wood flooring and doors (with hinges), piles of rubble, and sheet-styrene sidewalks and street.
▲ FRANK STEFFENS
RONKONKOMA, NEW YORK Frank modeled Tamiya’s 1/48 scale A6M3 Model 22 “Zero” as an aircraft flown by Maj. Sabura Shindo with the 582nd Naval Group, Buin, Bougainville, in June 1943. He painted with GSI Creos Mr. Color. 42 FineScale Modeler December 2017
SEND US YOUR PICTURES! Shouldn’t your model be in Reader Gallery? FineScale Modeler is always accepting new material from around the world. Upload high-resolution digital images (preferably unedited, RAW format) with complete captions at www.Contribute.Kalmbach.com, or burn it all on a disc and mail it to FineScale Modeler, Reader Gallery, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Be sure to tell us the kit manufacturer, model, scale, modifications, paint and finishes used, and reason for choosing the model, along with your name and address. We look forward to seeing your work!
◀ WES BEATTY
PARRY SOUND, ONTARIO, CANADA “This is the old, very old Airfix 54mm British Hussar,” Wes says. He painted it with Humbrol enamels and used BareMetal Foil on the saber.
▶ CHUCK BAUER
NORTH OAKS, MINNESOTA Going bigger than his usual 1/350 scale ships, Chuck devoted 2,434 hours to building Trumpeter’s 1/200 scale USS Arizona, depicted on August 11, 1941, in Measure 1 camouflage. He added more than 850 scratchbuilt details and photo-etched pieces, right down to opening the cockpit on one of the Kingfishers on its catapult. ”It’s historically accurate and looks pretty nice, too,” he says.
◀ LEE BISHOP
ROCHESTER, WASHINGTON Lee sent us a photo of a 1/6 scale 14-pounder James rifle built by his father, Gary Bishop. “It’s almost 22 inches long, about 11 inches high, and weighs about 15 pounds,” Lee says. “Everything was handmade. The barrel is cast bronze and the gun can be fired, though it’s never been.”
Tamiya’s 1/35 scale 8.8cm gun is surrounded by stonework that’s easy to sculpt and gives the model context.
Here’s an easy way to “86” an 88 in Italy /// BY GLENN BARTOLOTTI
ooking to display Tamiya’s “88mm Gun FlaK 36/37” (No. 35017), I decided to show it in a bombed-out Italian courtyard in 1944. I took a lot of “forum flak” for it, though it was possible — if not probable — that the gun could be set up as I have it. However, I wanted a compact scene. Small scenes can be detailed more easily than large ones, and I did not want to build more than I had to around the gun. And I learned new things from the project — achieving my personal goal of raising my own bar to new modeling heights. 44 FineScale Modeler December 2017
Maximum ceiling of FlaK 36 anti-aircraft gun
The base is my usual: a plastic photo frame with a Styrofoam base. I also used Styrofoam as the base for the stone walls.
Covering the foam with Magic-Sculpt starts the stonework. I work in small sections so the epoxy putty doesn’t dry before I can work it.
… scribe with a dental pick.
… and before long, what was putty looks like masonry.
… as well as a casualty left behind.
Airbrushing light gray provided highlights. I immediately brushed the turned-metal shells with thinner so the gray paint came right off.
Painting with pastels: I sand them to powder and use odorless turpentine to make them lighter (thinner) or darker (more dense).
I looked up Italian stonework and chose some photos to reference. I added some of these colors to the rubble, too.
3 It’s easy to texture with a toothbrush …
6 I piled up crushed concrete for rubble and glued it with a 1:1 mix of white glue and water. I made sure the gun had some on it, too …
9 Another airbrush pass with very thin armor yellow added contrast.
12 A raw umber wash unified the rubble. Finally, flat, charcoal black closes up the back side of this little display. FSM
More Glenn, more modeling To see more of Glenn’s masonry and other diorama techniques, see his “Juno Beach” feature in our Experts Guide to Superdetailing, available at KalmbachHobbyStore.com/product/special-issue/fs8161101
Building a Coast Guard rescue angel Refine a 1/72 scale Jayhawk /// BY ALBERT TURECZEK
o Seahawk is cooler than the HH-60 Jayhawk (redesignated MH-60), especially with its striking U.S. Coast Guard colors. Years ago, I wrote to the U.S. Department of Transportation and
explained how I badly wanted to see one in action. My request was granted and I visited the USCG air stations in San Francisco and San Diego, where an HH-60J resided. There, I took all the reference photos a modeler could want.
1 A photo of the Jayhawk 6005 taken during my visit. I took artistic license with my model by adding a FLIR unit under the nose and the air station name on the top cover panel. Let’s just call them “field modifications.” 46 FineScale Modeler December 2017
Back at the workbench, I began construction on the 1/72 scale Sikorsky SH-60B Seahawk from Italeri. A conversion set from Fireball Modelworks (No. FMR-002) provided resin upgrades and a complete decal sheet.
2 Starting with the bottom of the cabin, I drilled out the molded tiedowns and replaced them with copper wire bent to shape.
3 Here is the copper-foil rescue basket. Next came fire extinguishers made of plastic rod and metal foil, and two movable observer chairs on rails made of styrene sheet and strips, plus foam for the cushions.
5 Using a Waldron punch-and-die set, I perforated a plastic card, detailing the instrument panel with the small cutouts. Replacing unconvincing pedals with scratchbuilt ones increased their realism.
7 With the interior filled and painted, I joined the fuselage halves. This required a lot of sanding, complicated by the missing doors and windows. Hence, tons of dust ended up where it shouldn’t have been.
4 Gear, bags, tools, fire extinguishers, a rescue basket, plus two pilots are crammed into the not-so-generous space. I used a lot of lead foil, crafting life vests, small pockets on the survival vests, and seat belts.
6 I removed the hollow sonobuoy pylon and radar warning receiver by filling them with resin from the inside and sanding them to shape from the outside. The APU exhaust is aluminum tubing.
8 I cut off the molded-on wipers and thinned the windshield substantially, anchoring it to the airframe with epoxy. Fireball resin doors were fit with clear parts made of acetate and detailed with emergency handles. www.FineScale.com
9 After smoothing the surface with finishing cloths from Albion Alloys, I rescribed the airframe using strips of tape as a guide. New rivets were added with ponce wheels of different diameters.
10 The prominent radar nose of the Jayhawk was attached. Next came the pylons for the external fuel tanks — these are asymmetrical to leave the starboard door and hoist unobstructed.
11 The blades of the main and rear rotor heads were cut apart, reshaped, and thinned. Add-ons include copper wire, steel rod, insulation plastic from thin copper cable, and metal tubes from Albion Alloys.
12 This paint job demanded a lot of masking. After applying a gray base coat, I painted the nose flat black. Once it was dry, I masked off the nose and painted the rest Humbrol satin white. Then came the orange.
This vibrant hue is known as international orange. I found an acrylic from Schmincke’s Aero Color line that was just the exact shade needed, called “orange red” (28 320).
The Fireball decals are perfect in color and print, but they are vulnerable to smearing. The colors will rub off on your fingers if not fixed with a coat of varnish. After applying that, the decals went on smoothly.
I removed the molded-on position and anticollision lights and replaced them with colored and clear glass parts framed with metal foil.
The pivots in the windshield and glass parts on the nose were drilled and fitted with metal tubes. I scratchbuilt the wipers and washers as well as the rearview mirrors, which are unique to Jayhawks.
48 FineScale Modeler December 2017
The hardest antenna to scratchbuild stretched along the starboard side of the tail boom. I made it from tiny pieces of insulation plastic, aluminum foil, copper wire, and Lycra fiber.
The blade antennas were cut from metal foil. I used very thin copper wire for the lightning deflectors on the tail wing.
I placed my HH-60 on a base made of wood and painted cardboard, weathered with pastels. I attached a U.S. Coast Guard logo and pilot wings that I brought home from San Diego. Now I think all my builds will require in-person visits. FSM www.FineScale.com
How to cut corners when taping up a canopy /// BY PAT VILLARREAL
’d rather spend my modeling money on aftermarket parts and photo-etch than masking sets. Using simple steps and basic tools, I make masks that fit hard-to-cover nooks and crannies, like those on the three canopies pictured. Before I begin cutting, I coat all clear parts in Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish to protect the surface and create a barrier against super glue fumes.
With these masking tricks, rounded edges and tight corners are no longer to be feared.
1 Instead of trying to cut a precise mask (a nearly impossible task), I cover the area in stages. First, I fill in the corners with triangles of tape cut with a hobby knife and positioned with tweezers so the tip is at the corner. 50 FineScale Modeler December 2017
2 Sometimes I’m able to precisely fit one triangle into a corner (right), and other times I place two triangles side by side with their points together. To show this contrast, I used both Tamiya and blue painter’s tape.
3 After masking the corners, I fill the clear area using little bits of tape. The tape should overlap to ensure a tight mask.
5 After removing the center, I add several relief cuts along the mask to make the tape stretch and conform to the round edge.
7 These small masks protect the rounded corners.
4 For edges that require irregular shapes, like circles over a compound surface, I use a circular cutter, pictured, or French-curve template.
6 When I’m working on a pane with rounded corners, I use a punch to press out tiny circles of tape.
8 Long triangles and a slightly rounded piece cover the edges. Once this canopy is completely covered, I can apply paint without worry, knowing that the clear plastic will stay clear. FSM www.FineScale.com
READER TIPS By Elizabeth Nash
A good glue to have in a sticky situation Photo-etch can’t hide now
Lights from toothbrushes
Once I’ve enjoyed a box of Ferrero Rocher chocolates (and who wouldn’t?), the sturdy, clear lid makes a perfect photo-etch (PE) working space. I line it with black Perspex, which allows me to easily see tiny PE assemblies. In the past, when a PE part fell out of my tweezers, the carpet monster devoured it. Now it falls into the tray, where it can’t hide. – Stuart Fooks Bangor, New South Wales, Australia
Most dentist’s offices give patients a goingaway kit with floss, a small tube of toothpaste, and a toothbrush. Often, these brushes are molded in single color of plastic, such as blue, green, red, amber, and clear. If you’re nice, the dental hygienist might let you choose the color you want — then you’ll have a ready-made supply of scratchbuilding material. The colorful plastic can be made into aircraft running lights, taillights, and much more.
Uses for champagne corks
– Bill Hardie Jacksonville, Fla.
Don’t throw away champagne corks; they have many modeling uses: If you chop off the mushroom, it can be used as a stand for holding toothpicks or pins which can support small parts — such as wheels — for painting. The wire cage that held the cork in place can be used as a painting jig for metal cables or chains. After unraveling it, bend it into a bow with hooks at the ends. Slip the chain or cable over the hooks. The wire retains a degree of spring so that as it straightens out, the chain or cord is held taut for painting. – Gabriele Geroldi San Donato Milanese, Milan, Italy HAVE A TIP OR TECHNIQUE TO SHARE? Send a brief description along with a photo to [email protected] or visit FineScale. com and click on “Contact Us.” Tips are paid for upon publication; if you live in the U.S., we’ll need your Social Security number to pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the text and images upon payment.
52 FineScale Modeler December 2017
You might already own decal numbers When I need tiny digits for things such as serial numbers, I cut out the little placement numbers on decal sheets that identify where markings should be placed on the model. They come in all sorts of fonts and sizes, and many were treated with the rest of the sheet and have decal film on them. The two brands I turn to most often are Academy and Airfix. – Alex Sweatman (age 12) Rankin Park, New South Wales, Australia
If you are tired of counting to 100 while you wait for super glue to secure a photo-etched part to your model, try using J-B Weld epoxy resin as an alternative. This product is extremely easy to mix, is workable for an extended period of time, and has the viscosity to hold delicate PE parts like ship ladders in place until the cure is strong enough to fend off gravity. J-B Weld, found in hardware and automotive stores, comes in two versions: one sets in 6 minutes, the other takes 4-6 hours to cure. I prefer the latter because it makes alignment of PE parts less frenetic. Because the epoxy continues to gently flow after you attach the PE part, the end result looks more natural than with other products. It also has a high forgiveness quotient — if you don’t like something, simply wipe it off and try again. I typically dab a small amount of J-B Weld on a piece of cardboard, mix it, and apply the epoxy with a pin. The other advantage of this product is you don’t have to run to your partner for help separating your fingers after they’ve been glued together with other products.
– Ray Skoff Issaquah, Wash.
QUESTIONS & ANSWERS By Mark Hembree
Search and ye shall find, we hope
Can you provide tips for searching your archives (on FineScale.com)? For most queries, nothing comes up. – Roger Fisher Houston, Texas
Thanks for writing, Roger. Here are some basic tips for searching FineScale.com: • On the home page, click on the “magnifying glass” icon at the right end of the black bar at the top of the page, 1. • Limit your search to one or two key words. Do not type a full question as you might in Google. • If all you want is Reader Gallery, there is a box you can check at the top of the search results, 2. • To the right of the search box is the “Filter” button, 3. Use it to narrow your search to relevant articles, videos, wallpapers, kit reviews, what have you. Select as many as you want and click “Update View,” 4. • If you no longer wish to see a specific filter, click the “x” in that filter’s box to make it go away. • A “padlock” icon next to a search result means you must be a subscriber to see it, 5. • Many entries will have tagged keywords listed next to “More About” or “Related Topics,” 6. Click on one to see related items. • If you still can’t find what you need, email [email protected] If we don’t know the answer, we’ll find someone who does!
www.paint4models.com is online Q In the past, FSM has mentioned www.paint4models.com as a favorite site for paint-brand cross-references. But recently I’ve had trouble getting the site’s conversion chart to launch. Is that website still working? – Stan Erickson Appleton, Wis. A The site now has a post that says: “Updates to Chrome and Firefox mean that some (Adobe) Flash-based content doesn’t load by default. If you click on the launch button above but the page doesn’t load correctly, please visit https:// helpx.adobe.com/flash-player.html to make sure you have (Adobe) Flash enabled or an exception added for this site. Following that advice, I toggled through
my browser’s preferences and that fixed the problem — and it’s still a great site!
Pictures to Reader Gallery Q How can I get a picture of my model in Reader Gallery? – Silas Bell Hardensburg, Ind. A The best way is to send us a good picture of a good model. It doesn’t have to be a trophy winner; if it’s a good-looking model and the picture is clear, it will be considered for publication. Without a longer photography lesson, here are some tips: • Focus, focus, focus: When only part of the model is clear, the problem is usually “depth of field” — you can improve that by shooting with a smaller aperture (f12 or, better yet,
f16). You may need more light. If need be, take the model outside for the photo. • Get the entire model in the frame. Backing up a little will help your depth of field, too. • Use a plain background. We’d rather not see your workbench, your furniture, or your neighbor’s garage. We use an off-white paper sweep when we photograph models, but a bedsheet will do — if you iron the sheet! • Digital photos in RAW format or highresolution JPEGs are best. Do not edit the photo; we do that here. • Please tell us the kit, scale, and anything special you added or modified. Describe the finishing, and, best of all, why you built it. • Upload images and a text file at www. Contribute.Kalmbach.com. Or, you can burn a disc and mail it to us (the old-fashioned way). Hope to hear from you soon! FSM www.FineScale.com
WORKBENCH REVIEWS FSM experts build and evaluate new kits
MiniArt’s aim is true with SU-122
alk about packing in the detail! MiniArt’s SU-122 provides a full interior, including engine and fighting compartment. (The kit has also been released without the interior.) You pay a price for all that detail, with nearly 900 parts spread over 80 individual sprues. Just keeping track of the parts is challenging. But the result is a real looker alive with details. The kit engine features fuel and coolant lines, and the transmission includes all of the linkages and even has photo-etched (PE) drum brakes. The straightforward engine compartment builds quickly, but I deviated from the directions and left the exhaust pipes (parts 54 FineScale Modeler December 2017
Da1 and Da2) intact; the instructions indicate cutting them apart and then rejoining them after the rear plate is in place. I was able to thread them through instead. Unfortunately, most of that detail will be hidden on the finished model without cutting apart the engine deck. The fighting compartment includes scale-thin seats and control pedals. I’m not sure if it was just the kit that I had or MiniArt’s plastic in general, but small parts, such as like gear levers and foot pedals, were brittle; many broke while I was removing them from the sprue or cleaning up attachment points. I left off some parts that lacked clear locator marks, such as Fm1 or Fb3, until
the side walls were in place to better indicate location. I painted the engine and fighting compartment before building the casemate, but I didn’t go nuts on the interior detail as I wasn’t sure what would be visible on the finished model. The casemate’s sides, front armor plate, firewall, and gun came together easily. Despite the instructions, I glued the gun in place because the mounts weren’t holding it securely. The rest of the gun was easy to build with the gun lock in position. The road wheels needed very little cleanup and they fit the axles snugly. So, it was easy to attach them after painting and weathering. The upper hull built quickly, aided by
the one-piece engine deck molded with the fenders. The kit provides PE or plastic options for some details, like the straps and engine screens. The most frustrating and time-consuming aspects of the build were the handrails and tracks. I had a hard time removing the thin grab rails from the sprue — they are connected in 10 spots. If I got them off the tree neatly, the brittle plastic seemed to almost crumble during cleanup. If I build another, I’ll replace the rails with brass rod or stretched sprue. The brittle plastic proved problematic for the click-together tracks, too. The links fit snugly, and it was hard to snap them together without breaking the pins.
I rolled the links together, exerting minimal pressure on the pins, but still ended up with a lot of broken links. Glue is all that holds some of them together. For a faded, worn finish, I airbrushed mottled coats of green Badger Stynylrez over black Stynylrez primer. I spent more than 100 hours building and painting MiniArt’s SU-122, and the model looks great. It’s suitable for experienced modelers who won’t be fazed by the fine details or complex assemblies and can deal with breakages caused by the brittle plastic. Bottom line: It’s great to have an accurate model of this important Soviet self-propelled howitzer. – Chris Cortez
Kit: No. 35197 Scale: 1/35 Mfg.: MiniArt, www.miniart-models.com Price: $71.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 870 parts (95 PE), decals Pros: Crisp details; includes full interior Cons: Brittle plastic; fragile click-together tracks; complicated sprue layout
Meng P-51D Mustang
he P-51 Mustang is always a popular modeling subject, and every kit manufacturer has to have one in its lineup. Meng enters the competition with a 1/48 scale P-51D. Interestingly, the kit features a push-fit assembly but does so without compromising detail. The cleanly molded gray plastic incorporates neat recessed panel lines and rivet patterns. Optional parts include: two canopy types; two types of propeller; 75- and 108-gallon drop tanks; and bombs. No pilot
Kit: LS-006 Scale: 1/48 Mfg.: Meng, www.meng-model.com Price: $50.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 113 parts, decals Pros: Detailed cockpit; precise fits throughout; decals settled nicely Cons: Pressure is needed to push parts together; leading edges require filler
56 FineScale Modeler December 2017
is given. Beautifully printed decals provide markings for two colorful Mustangs flown by World War II aces: American Beauty, of the 308th Fighter Squadron and Short-Fuse Sallee, of the 356th Fighter Squadron. Aided by the push-fit engineering, construction breaks down into subassemblies. The detailed cockpit comprises 19 parts and looks convincing with careful painting. Generally, parts fit is good. But I had to exert substantial pressure to properly seat each component. If you do dry runs like I do, it may be difficult to pry pieces apart without damaging them. The fuselage halves merge with separate upper and lower cowl covers, dorsal spine, tail-wheel section, and ventral radiator intake and exit. All of these parts meet along panel lines, and cleanup is limited to just the vertical fin area — nice! None of the fuselage seams required filler. The wing’s three major components join separate flaps, ailerons, and wheel wells. Meng’s Mustang is the first 1/48 scale kit to accurately portray the design of the gear bay with the rear wall being the main spar. Assembly of the wings went smoothly except for the leading-edge insert with the machine gun muzzles. I could not press them properly into place and needed to fill the interior structure. After that, the part was slightly recessed on top and needed filler underneath.
However, the wings and the fuselage matched precisely and left no gaps at the wing roots. The extremely clear canopies have a fine mold line down the center. The sliding section fit in the closed position, but when open it seems a bit suspect — it does not sit back on the spine as seen in photos. I painted my Mustang with a combination of GSI Creos Hobby Color acrylics and Tamiya bare-metal silver from a spray can. The decals laid down perfectly, and I used decal solution only on large stripes. Building Capt. John Voll’s American Beauty, my primary reference was North American P-51D Mustang by Robert Pęczkowski (MMP/Stratus, ISBN 978-8-3894-50609), and Ron Mackay’s The 31st Fighter Group in World War II (Squadron/Signal, 978-0-8974-7514-3). I completed my P-51D in 15 hours. The assembled kit captures the handsome fighter and matches photos and drawings. As a Mustang enthusiast, I was pleased with the completed kit and plan on building a few more Meng P-51s. While not a kit for beginners, those who have experience with 1/48 scale kits will enjoy this model. I highly recommend Meng’s Mustang to modelers who want a goodlooking P-51D Mustang in their collection. – Jim Zeske
HobbyBoss P-51D/K Mustang
he North American P-51 Mustang found its way into the air forces of many other countries during and after World War II — including, albeit through capture, not export, the Chinese communist People’s Liberation Army Air Force (PLAAF), which was founded in Beijing with two PT-19s, two Mosquitos, and six P-51Ds. HobbyBoss’ latest entry in its “Easy Assembly” line of 1/48 scale aircraft is a PLAAF P-51D kit. The same kit is also available boxed as a P-51D/Mustang IV in Royal Air Force and U.S. Army Air Force markings; another boxing is in Korean War U.S. Air Force and South African markings. Cleanly molded in neutral gray plastic, the kit’s pieces are few (43) as separate parts are minimized. Optional parts are limited to drop tanks. The main components have large alignment pins and locators, which facilitates a quick build of the fuselage and wings. The cockpit interior also is simplified, with no side-wall details given. The canopy and windscreen are molded as a single component. It is very clear, but there is a fine mold line running down its length.
The fit of the wings to fuselage was good, with a crisp join at the wing roots. Surface detail is restrained on the fuselage and wings, which feature lightly recessed panel lines, but molded details on the rudder and horizontal stabilizers are somewhat exaggerated. One thing I did not catch until I was in the final phase of construction was a major error with the landinggear legs. The oleo scissors are molded facing forward — they should be trailing! As the gear legs are keyed for left and right assembly, correcting this will require some work. You could carefully cut off the scissor links and relocate them correctly. Otherwise, cutting off the locating pins and creating new ones could be another option. I painted my Mustang with a combination of Vallejo acrylic metal color paint and Tamiya spray paint. Decals cover two PLAAF aircraft; a selection of generic numbers is provided. The decals behaved well on the metallic paint surface. My primary reference was North American P-51D Mustang by Robert Pęczkowski (MMP Books, ISBN 978-83-
Kit: No. 85807 Scale: 1/48 Mfg.: HobbyBoss, www.hobbyboss.com Price: $20.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 43 parts, decals Pros: Good surface features and attention to detail without being overly complicated Cons: A few inaccurate shapes, reversed landing-gear legs
65281-23-4), although I also found a few photos of PLAAF Mustangs on the internet. North American P-51D Mustang: B/C/ D/K Models by Mariusz Lukasik (Kagero, ISBN 978-83-61220-06-0) also was useful. Judging by those sources, the kit’s dimensions and shapes are relatively good, though there are perhaps some shape issues at the lower cowling and below the canopy. I completed my Mustang in a quick 10 hours, and it was a fun build. This is a great kit for beginners or occasional modelers who want a classic P-51 Mustang in their collection. – Jim Zeske
IBG Scammell Pioneer SV2S
s model companies seem intent on outdoing each other in search of new subjects, fans of anything British have been the beneficiaries. IBG has produced several trucks used by the British army in World War II, and is the first to the market with a 1/35 scale plastic kit of the Scammell Pioneer. The initial offering is the SV2S heavy breakdown tractor. Cleanly molded in dark yellow plastic, the kit includes clear parts for the windows and light lenses, and a fret of photo-etched
Kit: No. 35029 Scale: 1/35 Mfg.: IBG Models, www.ibgmodels.com Price: $74.95 Comments: Injectionmolded plastic, 372 parts (54 PE), decals Pros: Crisp molding; easy to handle PE; detailed engine Cons: Random incorrect part labels; no rigging instructions; lack of interior detail
58 FineScale Modeler December 2017
(PE) details. Take care removing parts from trees as the attachment gates are thick and some parts have placement pins right at the gates. Decals provide markings for a captured vehicle in German service, a Russian LendLease truck, and three Commonwealth vehicles: one each in British, Polish, and South African markings. For anyone who has previously built an IBG model the directions will look familiar, with CAD images of the exploded view and of the finished step, parts list, color marking guide, and color callouts for Vallejo Model Air, Hataka, Mr Hobby H, and Lifecolor paints. You start by building several subassemblies, such as the tires, fuel tank, engine, and storage rack. At this point, I looked ahead and built anything else that would speed up assembly later. When assembling the three-part tires, study the direction of the tire tread; as the front and rear direction are different. A well-detailed engine is included and is a good starting point if you want to add more detail. In Step 8, thread Part F22 through the two halves of the front suspension (G25 and G26) before gluing them together — it cannot be glued in afterward without breaking F22. The frame is made of multiple parts. I
used the cabin floor to make sure the frame was aligned and straight. When assembling the rear winch rollers in Step 11, parts H13 and H14 need to be switched to the opposite sides. When assembling the front counterweight in Step 18, one of the cross supports labeled PE15 should be PE16. There is no mention of cable for the power winch, but if you decide to add some you will have to source the cable end. The rest of the frame assembled without any trouble. Due to the way the suspension works on the actual vehicle, I glued the suspension in place after the model was painted to make sure that all six wheels sat flat on the ground. The crane arm can be extended in multiple positions. You can see the completed rigging in the last step, but nothing is shown on how to rig it properly. The string that is provided is too thin, so I replaced it with nylon. Instead, I used the smaller thread for the rigging that moves the crane, also shown in place in the last step. The tool locker doors on the side are the entire height of the toolbox. On the real vehicle, they are actually only about ⅓ the height. There is also no interior detail on the door to the back of the truck — there should be a ladder and other stuff. The cab interior is fairly complete. However, the doors are molded shut. I left
the roof and rear of the cabin off until I finished painting. The windshield wipers are PE that do not have any detail and are easily damaged. I glued one side of the hood to the cab. The other side was left off to show the engine. After looking at each of the five painting options, I chose a vehicle from the 6th South African Armored Division in Egypt, January 1944. I weathered with several filters and washes. The directions do not give any detail colors, such as for the engine or cab interior, so back to the internet I went to check more photos. The decals, printed by Techmod, were thin but moved easily and settled easily around rivet detail. Under a clear coat, the carrier film disappeared. One disappointment is that no decals for the instruments or the gas tank gauge are included. Also, one of the divisional markings was not fully formed. The 372 parts took me 40 hours to put together. A great resource was Armorama. com, which has 200 pictures of a restored vehicle. Due to the overall good fit of parts and PE that was relatively easy to use, this would be good for someone who has built several models and would make a good starting point for someone who wants to superdetail the vehicle. – Mike Scharf
n the early days of the space race, the Soviet Union seemed to be winning. The USSR launched the first satellite in October 1957, and on April 12, 1961, cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin became the first human in space. America needed to act fast, and it required a rocket that was reliable and safe for human travel. Modifying the U.S. Army’s Redstone ballistic missile, NASA launched Explorer 1 in January 1958. On May 5, 1961, Alan Shepard rode a Mercury spacecraft atop a Redstone launch vehicle to become the first American in space. Opening the box, I was treated to three gray sprues — two identical frames featuring the body halves, launch pad, and fins, and another for the capsule, escape tower and stand for just the capsule. Two small frets of stainless steel photo-etch (PE), detailed, well-drawn instructions, and an absolutely gorgeous Microscale decal sheet round out the kit. The latter provides markings for any one of the six Mercury-Redstone missions. Pay close attention to the concise instructions — there are a lot of paint callouts, as well as orientation notes for parts and decals, that can be missed. The crisp plastic parts showed no flash, and the only sink marks I found were on the ring of the launch pad (they were easily eliminated). As molded, the spacecraft represents later Mercury ships with the window of Gus Grissom’s Liberty Bell 7, the one I built. The PE parts backdate the capsule with portholes as used for earlier flights, including Shepard and Ham, the chimp. With relatively few parts and a simple shape, the build progressed quickly. I used a little filler to blend the two separate fins into the body. The other two fins are molded with the lower body halves. The body’s upper and lower sections fit together seamlessly. Even the three-piece capsule went together flawlessly. Two flow generators are provided (Part M16), which is just as well, because they are small and I broke the first one. Final painting and decal work is a snap. A one-piece decal wraps the upper body for the checkerboard pattern. Based on past experience, I was concerned it wouldn’t fit or match up correctly. I need not have worried; these decals performed perfectly. Horizon did a fantastic job on the Mercury-Redstone, and I will build another. Kudos to the company for making these vehicles available in plastic. Now that we have the Redstone and Atlas, how about a Titan, Horizon? – Caleb Horn
Kit: No. 2004 Scale: 1/72 Mfg.: Horizon, www.horizon-models.com Price: $44.95 Comments: Injectionmolded, 78 parts (29 PE), decals Pros: Great plastic and PE detail; precision moldings; fantastic decals Cons: None
Zvezda Boeing 737-800
he latest from Zvezda’s 1/144 airliner factory is a 737-800 kit and — good news — parts breakdown and features all but guarantee other variants and configurations in subsequent releases. Fine recessed panel lines mark the beautifully molded parts. Options include: three wingtips — no winglets, blended winglets, and split scimitar winglets — a standard tail cone and the redesigned, more aerody-
Kit: No. 7019 Scale: 1/144 Mfg.: Zvezda, www.zvezda.org.ru Price: $39.95 Comments: Injectionmolded, 111 parts, decals Pros: Great detail; innovative engine nacelle design; excellent fit; super decals Cons: Multipart gear a bit tedious to assemble; lower horizontal stab joints don’t follow panel lines; small stencil instructions.
60 FineScale Modeler December 2017
namic one used on the 737 MAX; windscreens with and without eyebrow windows; and retracted or extended gear. A stand is included. Decals provide markings for two aircraft from Russian carrier UTair. Clear cabin-window inserts can be glued in the fuselage halves from inside. But to ease masking and painting, I elected to use the provided window outline decals with their clear carrier film for windows instead. No flight deck interior is provided, and the clear part has minimal joining surface where it meets the fuselage; filling the lower edge took care. The uniquely designed engines feature annular intake throats that eliminate interior seams. Delicately thin, the wings and winglets require caution to assemble. A diagonal seam cuts through the lower elevator hinge lines after the horizontal tails are assembled; it’s difficult to fill and restoring the detail wasn’t easy. The landing gear comprises numerous small parts, including separate brake stacks for the mains and seven parts in the nose gear alone. Those tiny details were tedious to assemble and required tweezers and patience. Antennas and drain masts were separate small parts. Color callouts reference Zvezda and Humbrol paints. Photos of the full-size UTair aircraft indicate the tips of the hori-
zontal stabilizer tips are painted red to warn ground vehicles servicing the aircraft through the rear main entry doors. Markings differentiate the UTair ships with different registrations and aircraft names. The thin decals fit the model perfectly. Unfortunately, they wanted to fold back on themselves during application. But they are pretty tough and withstood all my poking and prodding to straighten them. I found a couple of errors in the marking instructions. The port-side cabin window outline strips called out as No. 03 should be No. 02, and the engine warning stripes are reversed — decal No. 26 should go on the starboard sides of the nacelles, and No. 25 should go on the port; this orients the intake warning marking “mushrooms” correctly. The small size of the marking diagrams and the shading used made positioning some of the smaller decals a bit iffy. On the whole, though, the decals were excellent, and the stencils really made the model pop. Zvezda does a beautiful job with its airliner kits, and the 737 is no exception. Aftermarket decals provide bazillions of colorful options for this kit. Sixteen hours of pleasant work produced a nice replica, but I’d recommend this kit to a modeler who’s comfortable working with tweezers to handle small parts. – Walt Fink
Stransky Bücker Bü 181 Bestmann
was only aware of the Bücker Bü 181 Bestmann as the plane Hendley and Blythe attempted to fly to Switzerland in The Great Escape. It’s a German two-seat trainer that was used as a courier/ liaison plane during World War II. It was also converted to a tank-buster with the additions of wing-mounted Panzerfausts. However, Stepan Stransky’s 1/48 scale model kit depicts the Bestmann in foreign services, with decals for Czech, French, Croatian, and British markings. But the four Panzerfausts provided may foreshadow a German tank-buster to come. Typical of limited-run kits, there are no alignment pins; care must be taken to make sure fit is true. The panel lines are both engraved and raised, as on the real aircraft. For landing gear, you have a choice of wheels and skis. The instructions include a bit of history as well as some color and black-and-white detail photos and line drawings. I mostly followed the directions, save leaving the doors and skis for last. The instructions start with the fuselage, then the wings. I let them dry thoroughly, working on the landing gear before proceeding with the nicely detailed cockpit. The instrument
panel comes alive with some dry-brushing, but no decal is provided. Next came the nose, where I encountered problems. The clear canopy, C1, must be aligned with the fuselage sides as well as five other nose pieces while ensuring the firewall, instrument panel fit, and doors fit, too. When I reached this stage, the fuselage sides were too narrow and the canopy overlapped on both sides. I chose 5-minute epoxy and spread the fuselage halves gently while the epoxy set. I thought this worked (more in a moment). I assembled the nose, exhaust, prop, and horizontal stabilizers, leaving the skis for last, then started filling, sanding, and prepping for painting. Filler was needed along the spine and belly, the wing roots, and where the wings’ trailing edge mates with the fuselage. But during this step the nose fell apart. I had to clean up the parts, reassemble, and try again with more 5-minute epoxy. However, with all this trouble, the doors no longer fit and the model’s length comes up a few scale inches short. The decals, thin but not too delicate, went down well in a puddle of Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish.
Kit: No. 43016 Scale: 1/48 Mfg.: Stransky, www.stransky-kits.com Price: $25 Comments: Injectionmolded, 101 parts, decals Pros: Good cockpit detail; options for wheels or skis Cons: No engine visible in nose; fit of the eight-piece nose is challenging
The model took me 11 hours, some due to my difficulties with the nose. It matches published dimensions (except the nose) and looks like a Bestmann. One noticeable drawback — the intakes give a good view inside the nose, which is empty. At least part of an engine there would be nice. I would recommend this kit to modelers with at least a little bit of experience. It does make an attractive addition to any Luftwaffe collection. – Larry Johnson
Takom V-2 Rocket, Meillerwagen, and Hanomag SS100
his is a big deal: Takom has packaged the V-2, Hanomag, Meillerwagen and launch platform in one box. You can show the rocket erected or stowed for transport, the steering is movable, and there’s an optional APU setup. Markings are provided for four rockets and three Hanomag SS100 tractors. The instructions are split into two booklets, one for the Hanomag and one for the V-2/Meillerwagen/launch platform. I started with the V-2. Test-fitting the rocket halves, I found the two sides didn’t match. To fix this, I cut and glued tabs made from styrene sheet and let them cure. The halves 62 FineScale Modeler December 2017
then matched up better, but still needed careful sanding and filling because of the surface detail near the joint. From pictures, I noticed the tip of the rocket is slightly elongated instead of a spire point. I sanded it to shape. There are many paint schemes for the rockets — almost no two were alike. After painting the rocket, I assembled its mobile launch pad and painted that. The Meillerwagen transporter/erector is one complicated piece of equipment, and Takom has worked hard to bring it to scale. First, you have to decide whether to have the rocket in transport, erect mode, or on the pad alone. I chose to have the rocket in
the transport position. I started with the tubular frame, then built up some of the piping for the air system (not included, so you’ll have to look to references for that). There is an optional APU for the trailer. I painted the subassemblies as I went along to ensure good coverage. Suggestion: Mark the instructions according to which version you are making. Building the wheel assemblies and attaching them to the axles proved problematic because of weak attachment points. When building the steering assembly, Part G4 can be put in backwards, and that affects the shaft (Part G51) location. Once finished, the steering assembly moves left
and right with ease and can impact the frame. I had it knock off one of the tires while working on final assembly. I glued it where I wanted it to be so that couldn’t happen again. The tires are Continentalmarked, unlike the postwar ones for the SS100. I painted the trailer, pad, and SS100 Tamiya gray (X-24) and weathered with Tamiya pastel dust. The rocket was painted with Tamiya buff (XF-57), dark green (XF-61), dark yellow (XF-60), red brown (XF-64), and brown (XF-9). I kept the weathering light for the transport — being at the test site with a lot of brass around the project, they probably were cleaned more
than in the field. The decals for the license plate do not include enough numbers for this example, so I left them off. My reference was V2 — Dawn of the Rocket Age by Joachim Engelmann (Schiffer, ISBN 978-0-88740-233-3). It took 60 hours to finish this kit, with a good part of that time spent cleaning up the rocket and building the complicated Meillerwagen. Because of the parts count and the kit’s complexity, I recommend this kit for advanced modelers — but it has a lot of potential for dioramas. – Tom Foti
Kit: No. 03.01.2030 Scale: 1/35 Mfg.: Takom, www.takom-world.com Price: $69.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 608 parts (15 vinyl tires, 11 PE, chain), decals Pros: Posable wheels and rocket erector Cons: Weak attachment points; rocket halves misshapen; some soft molding omissions; nose shape of the rocket
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CANOPY MASKING AND MORE! WWW.EZMASKS. COM List $3.00. Chris Loney, 75 Golf Club Rd., Smiths Falls, ON, Canada K7A 4S5. 613-283-5206, [email protected] NEW! WOODEN SHIP MODEL KITS BlueJacket Shipcrafters, America’s oldest maker of wooden ship model kits has launched several new kits including the Pauline sardine carrier, USS Cairo ironclad civil war gunboat, the Revenue Cutter of 1815, the J/24, and coming soon, the Perry! Visit us at www.bluejacketinc.com to see these and our more than 75 other ship model kits for everyone from beginner to master craftsman. Experience Wooden Ship Modeling! SHIP AND AIRCRAFT MODELS. Built for display. For additional information contact, Ray Guinta, PO Box 74, Leonia, NJ 07605. www.modelshipsbyrayguinta.com TEN AIRCRAFT MODELS BROKEN IN ACCIDENT: In the 1980’s. WWII UK & USA. All parts there, some should be replaced on after market (props. landing gear, etc) built & painted inventory $45.00 or best offer. Brian Cockhill, 232 Greenwood Dr. Helena, MT. 59601 406-449-2154. [email protected] THOUSANDS OF MODEL KITS for sale. All types from Old Aurora to new releases. Send a $.70 SASE to: Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington, Owosso, MI 48867. Specify Military List. Phone: 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: [email protected]
A BIG BUYER OF AIRCRAFT, Armor, Sci-Fi, Resin, Hybrid or Plastic kits. We buy collections whether they are small or large- Worldwide as well. Call Don Black toll free 1-866-4627277. Don Black, 119 Bernhurst Road, New Bern, NC 28560. E-mail [email protected]
I WANT TO BUY YOUR UNBUILT MODEL KITS. Any size collection. Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington St. Owosso, MI 48867. 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: [email protected] MODEL CAR AND TRUCK KITS. Unbuilt or built. Any size collection. Good prices paid. Please contact: Fred Sterns, 48 Standish, Buffalo, NY 14216. Phone: 716-838-6797. Fax: 716-836-6057. E-mail: [email protected] YOU WILL NEVER FIND TIME TO BUILD ALL THOSE MODELS. Unbuilt kits, diecast aircraft, 1/18th scale model airplanes, military books. Milam Models, 519 DiLorenzo Dr., Naperville, IL 60565, Phone: 630-983-1407, [email protected]
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Rewards program for 10% back on purchases. Plastic aircraft, armor, ships, cars, decals, books, paints, tools, miniatures war-games. Mon-Thur 11-8, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 10-midnight, Sun 11-7 www.brookhursthobbies.com
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CALIFORNIA • Hollister
Model planes, car, ships & figures. Model train scales: Z, N, HO, O & G. Paints, tools. R/C & parts, incl. service. Craft & educational kits, supplies, products. Clinics available. Tu-Sat 116; Sun 12-4. [email protected]
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New Products, Old Kits & Great Service! Everything you need to build plastic models Armor, Aircraft, Ships, Cars, SciFi and more. M-F 10:30-6pm, Sat 10:30-5pm, Sun 12-5pm www.militaryhobbiesonline.com
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Large inventory of models from the world over! Detailing accessories, research publications, games, trains, R/C, tools, and supplies. Easy access from D.I.A. http://www.colpar.com
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Largest hobby shop in NE. Military, cars, trucks, plastic models, diecast cars, trucks. Planes, RC planes, cars, trucks, slot cars, rockets, Breyer, Detailing supplies, games! Mon-Wed 10-6 Th-Fri 10-9 Sat-Sun 10-6
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Plastic modeling kits. Paint, tools, scenery, accessories, & scale model railroads. Mon - Sat 10:00am-6:00pm; Closed Sun www.metrotrainsandhobbies.com
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MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston)
Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, figure kits, games, etc. Shipping available. Info: hobbybunker.com
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Stop in ONCE! A customer for LIFE! We have 10,000+ models, tools, supplies, 23 paint lines, 50 model mags, 5,000+ books. Est. in 1973, open 7 days, Th & Fr ‘til 8. Visit us @ www.sparetimeshop.com
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6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-fi. Reference books & supplies. Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to Rt. 123E, behind Dunkin’ Donuts. www.mymummy. com E: [email protected] HARRY’S HOBBIES & COLLECTABLES 250 E. Main St., Rt 123 508-285-8080
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Your source for plastic models, diecast and all supplies needed to finish your latest model. Open 7 Days - Call for Hours www.talbotstoyland.com 445 South “B” Street
CONNECTICUT • Manchester
Huge selection of model kits & accessories. Ships, Armor, Aircraft, Figures, Cars and more. Visit: www.freetimehobbies.com for complete listing. Monday to Friday 10-5, Saturday 10-4
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Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem Visit us in person or online www.houseofhobbies.com Secure online ordering
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ANN’S HOBBY CENTER
405 E. Putnam Avenue
Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train sets. Open Tues - Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5. www.HQHobbies.com
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1200 John Harden Dr.
Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.
CONNECTICUT • Milford
www.anchoragehouseofhobbies.com Alaska’s best hobby supplier since 1964. Two stories, 6,300sf, 1st floor all R/C, 2nd floor general hobbies, plastics, trains, slot cars, telescopes & more!
2803 Spenard Rd.
CONNECTICUT • Cos Cob
We believe that our readers are as important as our advertisers. If you do not receive your merchandise or a reply from an advertiser within a reasonable period, please contact us. Provide details about what you ordered and the amount you paid. If no action is obtained after we forward your complaint to the advertiser, we will not accept further advertising from them. FineScale Modeler magazine, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53187. The Advertiser Index is provided as a service to FineScale Modeler magazine readers. The magazine is not responsible for omissions or for typographical errors in names or page numbers.
OREGON • Hillsboro
Let your imagination run wild! Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, model railroading Z to G and more...
TRAINS & THINGS HOBBIES
210 East Front St.
MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit
Your single stop model building shop. Michigan’s largest selection of new and vin-tage kits in all genres plus everything needed to build them. Wed - Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5 Visit us on Facebook. www.modelcave.com
103 W. Michigan Avenue
NEVADA • Las Vegas While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories. Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5.
4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103
NEW HAMPSHIRE • Dover
NEW JERSEY • Kenvil
NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden) Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts, tools. Open 7 days
AAA HOBBIES & CRAFTS
706 N. White Horse Pike
NEW YORK • Middle Island Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies. Books and magazines.
MEN AT ARMS HOBBIES, INC.
134 Middle Country Rd.
NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum. Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits. Open 7 days.
JAN’S HOBBY SHOP, INC.
1435 Lexington Ave.
DEAN’S HOBBY STOP
MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit) New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more. www.michtoy.com MICHIGAN TOY SOLDIER & FIGURE CO. 1400 E. 11 Mile Rd. 248-586-1022
PENNSYLVANIA • Landisville (Lancaster) Large Selection New & Used Kits Military books, tools, paint, airbrushes Full line hobby shop open Tue - Thur 10-6, Fri 10-7, Sat 10-4 www.CoolTrains.com
COOLTRAINS TOYS & HOBBIES
106 W. Main Street
HO & N, Lionel trains. Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies. Open 11am-6pm M-F, Sat. 10am-5pm www.gandgmodelshop.com
G & G MODEL SHOP
2522 Times Blvd.
Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes. Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7. Sat 10:30-6. www.malhobby.com
M-A-L HOBBY SHOP
108 S. Lee Street
TEXAS • San Antonio
Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details! 590 Rt. 46
HILLSBORO HOBBY SHOP
345 E. Main St.
TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)
Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors #334 90 Washington St.
Full service hobby shop. Over 6,000 recently acquired models. All the supplies you need to build your model. www.hillsborohobby.com
TEXAS • Houston
Scale modeling from beginner to expert. A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, figures, ships, & sci-fi. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10am-6pm.
1029 Donaldson Ave.
WASHINGTON • Seattle
Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models. Large selection of detail parts. Largest selection of plastic models in South Seattle! www.skywaymodel.com
SKYWAY MODEL SHOP
12615 Renton Ave. South
CANADA–ON • Ottawa (Vanier) One of Canada’s leading model shops. Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories. Free parking. On Parle Francais.
HOBBY HOUSE, LTD
80 Montreal Rd.
CANADA–ON • Toronto Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & finishing products. Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections. www.wheelswingshobbies.com
WHEELS AND WINGS
1880 Danforth Ave.
NORTH CAROLINA • ARDEN Not just trains. Academy Models, AFV Club, Bandai, Hobby Engine, Morgan Cycle, Revell Monogram, Tamiya & More! www. FactoryDirectTrains.com
FACTORY DIRECT TRAINS
7 GLENN BRIDGE RD STE B
OKLAHOMA • Owasso
Thousands of model kits from old Aurora to new releases. Mon 4pm-7pm, Tues - Fri 11:30am-5pm. Sat 11:30am-4:00pm E-mail: [email protected] 116 N. Washington Street
MICHIGAN • Traverse City
Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint & aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor, ships, trains & sci-fi. Special orders welcome! Tue - Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-5, Sun 1-4:30 Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com
TOP SHELF MODELS
119 S. Main St.
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FineScale Modeler! Call 888-558-1544, ext. 815 for more information.
OREGON • Beaverton Complete full line hobby shop. Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon - Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5.
12024 SW Canyon Rd.
Alpha Precision Abrasives, Inc.___ 4
Glenn Hoover Models ________ 64
ParaGrafix ___________________ 9
ARA Press___________________ 8
Hobbylink Japan ______________ 4
Powercookie Boards LLC _______ 9
Colpar’s Hobbytown USA _____ 64
Hornby America ______________ 4
Roll Models_________________ 64
Dean’s Hobby Stop ___________ 64
Mark Klimaszewski __________ 64
Sprue Brothers _______________ 4
Evergreen Scale Models ________ 6
Squadron Mail Order __________ 2
Fantastic Plastic Models _______ 64
Michigan Toy Soldier Co.______ 64
Tamiya America, Inc. _________ 68
FineScale Modeler DVD ______ 67
Micro-Mark _________________ 9
TotalNavy.com ______________ 64
FineScale Modeler Modeling Tools 6
Oldmodelkits.com ___________ 64
Zvezda USA ________________ 15 www.FineScale.com
FINAL DETAILS By Mark Hembree
A modeling odyssey
“studio scale” model is the same size as a miniature used for filming. There’s no preset measurement or standard size — just what looks best on camera. But they do tend to be large. Bigger models hold more detail and catch more light. Also, movement — especially for a massive spacecraft, for instance — looks more realistic when the model is bigger. Studio scale modeling is not exactly mainstream — but when Theo Stefanski of Cambria, Calif., got the urge to build a studio-scale Orion spaceliner, he knew where to go. “Atomic City Models has a decadeslong history of producing resin models from 2001: A Space Odyssey, among others,” he says. “They are limited editions and hard to obtain. Once in hand, however, they invite modifications beyond their original intent.” So Theo saved a little on delivery
More at www.FineScale.com Visit us to view in-progress photos and see how Theo built his Orion spaceplane. 66 FineScale Modeler December 2017
and made the two-hour trek out to Atomic City’s base in Hanford, Calif., to pick up the 1/48 scale, 42-inch-long kit. “There wasn’t much debriefing on this kit,” he says. “The fuselage is three pieces under which is a lower wing plus flaps. There are not many small parts. The walls are relatively dense, making a very heavy completed model.” Theo commenced by cutting out the ends of the main body to access the interior and reduce weight. He also “lightened” the casting’s deep panel lines by filling them with Mr. Surfacer. As he assayed the window cutouts, he decided the ship should have lighting and a basic interior. “Of course, this made things overly complicated,” he says. But that’s hindsight. For Theo, it was too late. He used an interior from the 1/55 scale Aurora/Moebius Moon Bus, making molds to cast additional seats in resin. He also converted figures and built a flight deck, “but I had to restrain myself,” he says. Yet not before he glued LEDs to the cabin ceiling and fitted microscope slides for windows. After painting, mask removal
was done “very carefully, as the glass is near scale thickness, and not safety glass.” After Tamiya primer and wet-sanding came a coat of Humbrol flat white. He gave it several days to cure while he pondered the paint scheme. “I had seen pictures of another Orion model with multicolored panels, purported to be based on confidential photos. But I went with warmer and cooler grays to be closer to what is seen in the film,” he says. He varied the panels with Testors radome tan, light gull gray, ghost gray, and aircraft gray, then toned down the contrasts with a light over-coat of flat white. Solvaset settled the decals; he cut out black decal film for more markings. Airfix 1/72 scale Mustang canopies were used for landing lights. Theo applied a finish coat of Tamiya clear semigloss, then Testors Dullcote on selected panels for further variety. Cutting, polishing, and installing ⅛-inch Plexiglas for navigation lights brought his Orion spaceplane to a conclusion and a closing understatement. “It commands attention and generous display space,” Theo says. FSM
A OFDECADE AIRCRAFT,
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