Fine Scale Modeler Vol.35 Issue 09

November 2017 FineScale.com 35TH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE UPDATES, ADDONS CREATEAN AWARD WINNERp.28 35 tips, tools, techniques you needp.20 Motorize your pl...

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AN

NI 35T ISS V E R H U E S AR Y

35 tips, tools, techniques you need p.20 November 2017

FineScale.com

DETAIL A

WWII CRUISER UPDATES, ADDONS CREATE AN AWARD WINNER p.28

WONDERFEST Dull a GALLERY p.38 naturalmetal Motorize finish p.16 your Make a Simple plane’s camo for a prop p.56 Waffenträger pop p.34 Bradley p.49

PLUS: 8 REVIEWS, READER GALLERY, Q&A, TIPS & MORE BONUS ONLINE CONTENT CODE PAGE 3 Vol. 35 • Issue 9

CONTENTS

ONLINE CONTENT CODE: FSM1711

November 2017 /// Vol. 35 /// No. 9 Enter this code at www.FineScale.com/code to gain access to web-exclusive content

70

FEATURES

KIT REVIEWS

16 Airbrushing & Finishing

62 Academy USS Enterprise CV-6

Take the shine off natural metal AYHAN TOPLU

64 Airfix Victor B.Mk.2

18 Form & Figure Painting and shading black JOE HUDSON

65 Zvezda PzKpfw IV Ausf H

20

20 35 tips, tools & techniques More than three decades’ worth FSM STAFF

67 Valom B-45A Tornado 68 Eduard SE.5a

28 Fitting tribute Aftermarket add-ons and details yield an award-winning model JOE SIMON

34 Put pizazz in a paper panzer! Trumpeter’s 1/35 scale 12.8cm PaK 44 Waffenträger Krupp 1

66 Roden L-19/O-1 Bird Dog

69 MiniArt T-54-1 70 Hasegawa H8K2 “Emily”

34

IN EVERY ISSUE

38 Show Gallery

5 Editor’s Page

WonderFest USA 2017

7 Scale Talk

44 Warp a warrior Oilcanning and weathering Hasegawa’s 1/72 scale Tony ROGERIO “RATO” MARCZAK

10 New Products

44

52 Reader Gallery

49 Easy camo for a Bradley A first-timer follows simple steps CHARLES LIPKIN

60 Questions & Answers 61 Reader Tips

56 Motorize your model Spinning prop for a Polikarpov fighter ALFONSO PEREIRA

72 Hobby Shop Directory 72 Classified Marketplace

74 Final Details This MiG is over, easy MARK HEMBREE

56

73 Advertiser Index

FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187. Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, PO Box 62320, Tampa, FL 33662-2320. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.

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EDITOR’S PAGE By Mark Savage

35 years is just the beginning! Imagine: 35 years is roughly half an photo-etch, vacuum-formed plastic, average lifetime. Yet we know it’s only resin, styrene, and metal. the beginning, too. And now we are much more than What started as a bold experiment a magazine. We reach out to the here 35 years ago has matured — like English-speaking world with a webmost of us — and grown into somesite that illustrates plastic modeling thing that is way more than was in all its forms. FineScale.com is imagined at the time. packed with how-to stoFineScale Modeler’s foundries, photo galleries, kit We’ve gone reviews, forums, and ers dreamed of a magazine from with a mission (being your videos. But that’s just essential tool for scale modscratching the surface. 20-piece eling), a test which it aced We deliver a twicestyrene kits early on. That success has monthly email newsletter to 1,000been sustained, which you with new product informapiece regularly affirm at shows tion, including two New multiand in daily emails. So Product Rundown videos, media kits! we humbly submit that plus an issue preview video. saying so isn’t a boast, We post a sizable online just a fact. reader gallery monthly, and we’re on In that 35 years (much of it in the Facebook and Pinterest nearly every past 10), the media world has transday to connect with you and new formed. modeling readers. In modeling terms, we’ve gone There are special issues each year from 20-piece styrene model kits to that we hope will help increase your 1,000-piece multimedia kits with skills and inspire you.

35

YEARS

FSM

FSM’s staff with art director Tom Ford.

So here we are, FineScale Modeler at 35. Many authors and editors have come and gone in that stretch, but our commitment to you and to constant improvement remains the same. Thanks for letting us into your homes and hearts!

[email protected]

Off the sprue: What is your favorite Turkey Day dish?

Editor Mark Savage [email protected]

Senior Editor Aaron Skinner [email protected]

Associate Editor Mark Hembree [email protected]

Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash [email protected]

Editorial Associate Monica Freitag [email protected]

I can’t help myself, I’m a double dipper for sweet potatoes with melted marshmallow, brown sugar and pecans on top. Gotta go for that second scoop! Yum!

Thanksgiving means orange food for me: I love a big helping of candied yams and it’s got to be pumpkin pie for dessert.

I am the cooker of the turkey (my dressing and gravy are also outstanding), but my favorites are all the sides — except cranberry. I obliged Mom years ago by trying it, and that’s as far as it goes with me. I am the man of the house, and if I don’t want to eat cranberry, I don’t have to!

The dark meat of the turkey, piled high on top of buttermilk mashed potatoes and then doused with peppery gravy. With tangy cranberries on the… oh wait, can I only pick one?

Just one? Thanksgiving is like a food experience at our house! But I have to say the turkey with gravy. We only eat turkey once at year, on that day, so a tender, tasty slice or two is my favorite.

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5

Editor Mark Savage Art Director Tom Ford

EDITORIAL Senior Editor Aaron Skinner Associate Editor Mark Hembree Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash Editorial Associate Monica Freitag

ART Illustrator Kellie Jaeger Photographer William Zuback Production Coordinator Cindy Barder

CONTRIBUTING MODELERS Paul Boyer, Federico Collada, Andy Cooper, Raúl Corral, Frank Cuden, Phillip Gore, James Green, Joe Hudson, Rick Lawler, Karl Logan, Harvey Low, Rato Marczak, Chris Mrosko, Bill Plunk, Darren Roberts, Chuck Sawyer, Cookie Sewell, Bob Steinbrunn, Cristóbal Vergara, Jim Wechsler, Adam Wilder

KALMBACH PUBLISHING CO. Senior VP Sales & Marketing Daniel R. Lance Vice President, Content Stephen C. George Vice President, Consumer Marketing Nicole McGuire General Manager Brian J. Schmidt Advertising Director Ann E. Smith Art and Production Manager Michael Soliday Circulation Director Liz Runyon New Business Manager Cathy Daniels Retention Manager Kathy Steele Single Copy Specialist Kim Redmond

ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT 888-558-1544 Advertising Sales Representative Dina Johnston, Ext. 523 Advertising Services Representative [email protected]

RETAIL, TRADE ORDERS, AND INQUIRIES Selling FineScale Modeler magazine or products in your store: Phone 800-558-1544 Outside U.S. & Canada 262-796-8776, Ext. 818 Fax 262-798-6592 E-mail [email protected] Website www.Retailers.Kalmbach.com

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SPECIAL EMAIL & WEB ADDRESSES Ad Sales [email protected] Letters to the Editor [email protected] New Products [email protected] Reader Gallery Contribute.Kalmbach.com Reader Questions [email protected] Reader Tips [email protected] Editorial phone (262) 796-8776; advertising (888) 5581544; customer service & sales (800) 533-6644; outside the U.S. and Canada (813) 910-3616.

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6 FineScale Modeler November 2017

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MASTERING THE FINISH

ADAM WILDER STEP BY STEP GOES ON A T26

SCIF MOV I MOD IE ELING

111

SCALE TALK

Your voice in FSM

35 years and counting

Now at www.FineScale.com

Let’s do it again! Wow, 35 years! I have been a model builder since I was 9, and that was 60 years ago. I build a wide variety of models including military, planes, ships, and cars. For more than 20 years I have enjoyed your magazine and kept every issue. I love reviewing them frequently, and the tips and techniques I have learned throughout the decades have helped me achieve the level of builds I do today. I have been so inspired seeing what can be done and has been done by others. Let’s go for another 35! – Darwin Menzer Plymouth, Wis.

A constant over the years This past year has defined why I model. With everyone on my side of the family passing away this year, I do not recommend renovating and selling three houses and also purchasing a new house within 10 months — all while holding a full-time job. At least now I have a dedicated modeling room. Since 1995 I have had a subscription to FSM, through newsagents and then, later, directly. Throughout this time, FSM has always been a constant, even whilst adapting to the ever-changing media environment. Over the years, I have encouraged close friends to take up modeling again, urging them to subscribe, as FSM is the industry standard. Not a week goes by without a phone call where the first words are, “Have you got your issue yet? Do you see this? Turn to page ...” I’ll end the way I started, by saying thanks to the team for being my constant over a difficult past year

Free desktop wallpaper Download a new computer background featuring Hasegawa’s 1/72 scale Kawanishi H8K2 “Emily” built by Walt Fink for Workbench Reviews and featured on p. 70 in this issue.

– David Fernie Auckland, New Zealand

Honoring a veteran A recent build inspired me to take my modeling in a new direction: building for veterans. I am a teacher, and I recently learned that a colleague of mine named Jim was a retired Marine who flew as a spotter in Vietnam. I asked him if he had a model of

Jim, a retired Marine, was the proud and thankful recipient of a Bronco, which he flew in as a spotter in Vietnam.

his aircraft, and it turned out that he had an unbuilt 1/48 scale Testors OV-10A Bronco given to him as a gift. With no guarantees of how good it This was a great way to would look, he agreed to let me build thank a veteran for his service it for him. It turned out to be the most

in a very personal way.

rewarding build I have ever completed. I never would have chosen this kit on my own because it had all of the things that I usually avoid when choosing a kit. This one demanded that I use my weakest skills. Many positive things happened, though! I got to learn and apply new modeling techniques (thanks, FSM!), dig into the history and details of an aircraft that was brand-new to me, and hear many firsthand accounts of the Bronco in action. I ended up displaying the model performing a maneuver described during one of many conversations with Jim. This was a great way to thank a veteran for his service in a very personal way. It gave him a springboard to share his experiences with others — and it built a friendship, as well. Next up is the USS Implicit (MSO-455) for a retired Navy officer who is also an employee at our school. It will be my first ship model since I was a kid. I am looking forward to improving my modeling skills, hearing many more firsthand stories about the real thing, and, more importantly, honoring a veteran for his service. – Mark Wees Everett, Wash.

Errors lead to expertise In the September issue, the Editor’s Page dealt with the modeling mistakes made by the staff at FSM. Readers were then asked www.FineScale.com

7

SCALE TALK

GREAT GIFT IDEA!

THE WAIT IS OVER! SPECIAL ISSUE

about their own modeling disasters. I must confess that I have committed most, if not all, of the crimes mentioned — from lost or broken parts to spilled paint and transportation damage. However, I have overcome the traumas and actually developed skills thanks to my mistakes. Every new, frustrating setback adds to the ability bank and gets the problem-solving brain cells going. Damage to a completed model doesn’t immediately guarantee the end of the line. If I deem the damage unrepairable, I repurpose these victims and make crash dioramas. Otherwise, I will strip them down for useful parts on future projects. Thanks for the great magazine and amazing website. Happy 35th anniversary! – Jonathan Botting Alliston, Ontario, Canada

Show us your space

Big kits need a big place My man cave is only a few months old. Most of my models over the years were finished in a garage, at the dining room table, a small desk, and most recently, a 4-foot folding table! It feels so good to now have this space and not have to visit my stuff in storage. I do not have a huge stash — about 38 unbuilt models. But what I lack in quantity I make up in size! My kits range from 1/32 scale all the way up to Hasegawa’s 1/8 scale Fokker Dr.I. If it’s big, I probably have it! – Steve McNaughton Moses Lake, Wash.

100 PAGES OF THE BEST MODELS

170+ CONTEST MODELS Coverage from the biggest shows Be inspired by top builders’ best models SHIPS

SCIENCE FICTION

VEHICLES

FIGURES

Modeling while on the mend

ARMOR

AIRCRAFT

10

SHOWCASES + DAN JAYNE CUTAWAYS

From the editors of FineScale Modeler, Great Scale Modeling 2017 is back with its best edition yet! The 100-page special issue features 170+ models from the best modelers in the world.

Order today at KalmbachHobbyStore.com/GSM P30362

Offer expires 11/2/17 at 11:59 p.m. CT. *Free standard shipping to U.S. addresses only. Canadian and foreign addresses, add $3.95 for shipping and handling. Sales tax where applicable. Great Scale Modeling will arrive in late November 2017.

8 FineScale Modeler November 2017

Reward for reading Earlier this year, I took my build of Mickey Thompson’s Challenger 1 to a show. Built in 1960, it raced across the Bonneville Salt Flats at 406.6 mph, making Mickey the fastest man alive at the time. Not only did I win first in my class, I also won an IPMS silk purse award — that was a big shocker! This is the result of reading FineScale Modeler and Scale Auto for many years. Thank you for teaching me so much. – Jesse Hosmer Jamestown, Calif. Ed.: FSM’s been modeling for 35 years. In that time, we’ve learned a lot and built some kits (or tried building some kits) that would make our younger selves’ eyes bulge. What’s a kit you’ve built recently that you never would have considered trying when you f irst started out? Write to us at [email protected]

I am undergoing treatment for MDS and leukemia at the Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania, or, as we call it, HUP. Since I knew I’d spend an extended period in isolation, I asked if I could bring my tools and a model or two. It has been a godsend. The days previously spent bored have become fun. Like other folks, I modeled as a kid but stopped building because of children, job, etc. However, I’ve been collecting tools and kits these last 30 years. Since I’m now retired, I can actually build some of the stash whether at home, on the road, or at HUP. – Frank Walter Glenside, Pa.

Corrections We misidentified the type of airbrush Scott Weir used to paint his Bf 109 in the September 2017 issue. His airbrush of choice is a Paasche VL.

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September 2016 p.16

SPECI AL

ARS OF 100 YE TANKS

Weathering a British Mark I p.22

Aaron Skinner’s 1/35 scale M48A3 Patton – p.36

Detailing a late German Tiger I p.26 Adding bedspring armor to a T-34 p.30 4 fixes for Dragon’s Patton p.36 An Abrams recycling

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9

NEW PRODUCTS Compiled by Monica Freitag & Aaron Skinner

Spotlight

Kitty Hawk tackles export Fitter Kitty Hawk follows up its initial Sukhoi Fitter, the Su-17, with the Su-22 (No. KH80146, $79.99) sold to many Eastern Bloc and Arab nations as well as Peru during the Cold War. The swing-wing fighter-bomber is still flying in Poland, Syria, Yemen, Angola, and Vietnam.

Molded in gray plastic, the kit shares many characteristics with the previous kit including the multipart fuselage, detailed cockpit, wheel wells, engine, and a wide selection of bombs, missiles, and rocket and gun pods. Optional parts account for differences between M3 and M4 versions.

Kit features include posable control surfaces, movable wings that will require the flaps to be posed up, thin wing fences, posable speed brakes, photoetched harness, and sharply molded clear parts. The highlight is the selection of markings including-

Fitters from Poland, East Germany, post-reunification Germany, Czech Republic, Hungary, Syria, and Vietnam. A separate sheet provides stencils for the weapons.

AIRCRAFT KITS 1/32 SCALE

Messerschmitt Bf 110F from Eduard, No. 8207, $74.95. ProfiPack.

A-4E Sky Hawk from HobbyBoss, No. 81764, $54.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoing issue of FSM.

1/72 SCALE

Vought F4U-1D Corsair from Tamiya, No. 60327, $188.

1/48 SCALE

C-27J Spartan from Italeri, No. 1402, $59.99. Roland C.II from Eduard, No. 8043, $34.95. ProfiPack.

Curtiss Tomahawk MK.II from Airfix, No. A05133, $54.99.

PZL.37 A Łoś (Moose) Polish Medium Bomber from IBG Models, No. 72511. Contact your local dealer for price information.

Fokker Dr.I from Eduard, No. 8162, $39.95. F-104G Starfighter Special Colors from Italeri, No. 2777, $27.

10 FineScale Modeler November 2017

ProfiPack.

1/144 SCALE

C-5B Galaxy from Roden, No. 330, $139.95.

ARMOR KITS

1/56 SCALE

Sturmpanzer IV Brummbär SdKfz166 Späte Production from Tamiya, No. 35353, $56. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

World of Tanks IS-2 from Italeri No. 56506, $29.99. Kit features a World of Tanks Tank Guide, liquid cement, and in game codes for an Excelsior heavy tank, a T2 light tank, 500 gold, 11 total days of premium account, and two garage slots.

1/16 SCALE

World of Tanks Jagdpanzer IV from Italeri M1A2 Abrams US main battle tank (display model) from Tamiya, No. 36212, $688. Big Tank Series No. 12.

1/35 SCALE

No. 36510, $34.99. Kit features exclusive ingame emblem, three days of Premium Account, a large repair kit, automatic fire extinguisher in game, a tank guide, liquid cement, and codes for a T2 Premium Light Tank, 1000 gold, 7 additional days of Premiuim Account, and one garage slot.

World of Tanks KV-1/KV-2 from Italeri No. 56505, $29.99. Kit features tank guide, liquid cement, and codes for Excelsior heavy tank, 11 total days of premium account, two garage slots, 500 gold, and a T2 Light Tank.

1/72 SCALE

M113A1 ACAV from AFV Club, No. AF35113, $79.99.

World of Tanks 38t Hetzer from Italeri No. 36511, $34.99. Kit features exclusive ingame emblem 10 days of Premium Account, a large repair kit, and automatic fire extinguisher in game. Also includes a tank guide, liquid cement for the model, and codes for a T2 Premium Light Tank, 1000 gold, and one garage slot.

Maschinen Krieger PKH 103 Nutcracker “Kampfgruppe Balck‚” from Hasegawa, No. 64111, $109.99.

Magach 6 from Italeri, No. 7073, $17.99.

Get your essential tools here! Are you running out of No. 11 hobby blades? Do your photo-etch scissors or sprue cutters need to be replaced? You know you can always use more sanding sticks. If any of these apply, check out the variety of modeling tools at the Kalmbach HobbyStore. Go to www.kalmbachhobbystore.com and browse our selection of essential tools!

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11

NEW PRODUCTS Spotlight

Midsized M1A2 from Tamiya Abrams kits have graced Tamiya catalogs since 1982, shortly after the tank entered service. Since then, the company has released multiple updates in 1/35 scale and recently a monster in 1/16 scale. Now a little brother joins the ranks in the form of a

1/48 M1A2 (No. 32592, $34). This is not a scaled-down version of Tamiya’s 1/35 scale Abrams. The lower hull’s separate side panels feature molded road-wheel arms; internal braces secure a metal block to give the main battle tank heft. Link-and-length tracks complete the running

gear. The upper hull and turret include nonskid molded on horizontal surfaces. The main gun comes as a single tube with separate muzzle and two-part fume extractor. Small details include fine bustle basket rails and an M2 machine gun for

1/700 SCALE

the commander’s hatch. Decals provide markings for two 3rd Armored Cavalry Regiment tanks in Iraq in 2003.

SCIFI KITS 1/35 SCALE

El Alamein Battle Railway Station Diorama from Italeri, No. 6181, $89.99.

Shimakaze Japanese navy destoyer from Tamiya, No. 31460, $29.

U

SS Enterprise CV-6 from Academy, No. 14224, $36.99. Look for a detailed review on p. 62.

BL 8-inch Howitzer Mk.VI from Roden,

PKA Ausf G Gustav Maschinen Krieger (2 Kits) from Hasegawa, No. 64102, $26.99.

1/700 SCALE

No. 716. Contact your local dealer for price information.

PKA Ausf M Melusine Maschinen Krieger (2 Kits) from Hasegawa, No. 64103, $26.99.

1/2700 SCALE

SHIP KITS 1/350 SCALE

USS Alaska CB-1 from HobbyBoss, No. 86513,

World of Warships Tirpitz from Italeri, No. 46504, $39.99. Kit features ship guide, liquid cement, and codes for 7 days of premium account, 1000 doubloons, Emden Tier 2 Premium Cruiser, a port slot, and more.

Star Wars Imperial Star Destroyer from Revell, No. 85-6459, $116.95.

$154.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

Want to see what’s inside what you see here? Visit www.finescale.com for Workbench Reviews of many recent kits. We also give you more details of books and decals on the website. While you’re there, check out our New Product Rundown (NPRD) videos where Elizabeth Nash and Aaron Skinner crack the lid on cool new kits and accessories — and have some fun along the way. Then, search our full Product Directory with more than 18,000 items. 12 FineScale Modeler November 2017

FIGURE KITS 1/32 SCALE USAAF Fighter Pilot ETO Late World War II from

B/RB-66B Destroyer landing gear (for Italeri) from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No.

Master Details, No. 32055, $14.95.

72145, $14.95.

1/144 SCALE SE.5a Wolseley Viper landing gear (for Eduard) from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 48333, $15.95.

1/35 SCALE Wehrmacht tank crew set from Tamiya, No. 35354, $18.50.

US WWII tank crew in winter dress from Squadron, No. 35526, $24.99.

AIRCRAFT DETAILS 1/32 SCALE

MiG-21 landing gear — 2 sets (for Eduard) AMX A-1A/B, A-11A/B landing gear (for HobbyBoss) from Scale Aircraft Conversions,

from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 14425, $9.95.

No. 48334, $17.95.

Luftwaffe cowling fasteners from Eduard, No. FE845, $5.95.

Steel Spitfire Mk.IX seatbelts (for Eduard) from Eduard, No. FE840, $7.95.

IDF/AF HAS & Taxiway from Noys Miniatures, No. 3231, $27.10. Also available in 1/48 No. 4831, $21.70. Both plotter-printed on heavy paper (not cardstock). Shipped rolled in a sturdy carton tube just like a poster.

Steel seatbelts Soviet Union WWII fighters from Eduard, No. FE846, $7.95.

IL-76MD Landing Gear (for Zvezda) from

Bf 109F seat, early (for Eduard) from

IDF/AF HAS & Taxiway from Noys Miniatures,

Eduard, No. 648329, $7.95.

No. 144031, $5. Also available in 1/72 No. 7231, $7. Both quality printed on cardstock.

Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 14426, $11.95.

Bf 109F&G pitot tubes for (Eduard) from Eduard, No. 648332, $4.95.

Matra R-550 Magic from Eduard, No. 648322,

1/48 SCALE

$12.95.

F-14D wheel set from True Details,

Matra R-550 Magic 2 from Eduard,

No. TDP48202, $8.99.

No. 648323, $12.95.

F-35A Lightning II wheel set from True

1/72 SCALE

ARMOR DETAILS 1/35 SCALE

Details, No. TDP48203, $8.99.

Steel seatbelts France WWII from Eduard, No. FE839, $7.95.

F-14A cockpit (for Tamiya) from Eduard, Zimmerit coating sheet for Brummbär late production from Tamiya, No. 12673, $14.

No. 648312, $44.95.

Luftwaffe rudder pedals from Eduard, No. FE838, $5.95.

Su-33 “Flanker-D” landing gear (for Zvezda) from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 72144, $13.95. www.FineScale.com

13

NEW PRODUCTS AIRCRAFT DECALS

PAINTS

1/48 SCALE

Dust wash from True Earth, $6 each. Shown: Mud 06 and Sand 04; Desert 05, Dull Earth 02, Dust 03, and Earth 01 also available.

F/A-18C F/A-18F Demo Hornets from

TF-15A Bicentennial Eagle

TwoBobs Aviation Graphics, No. 48-257, $14.

from TwoBobs Aviation Graphics, No. 48-253, $20.

F-16C Dark Vipers Part 2 from Caracal

F-5N Modern Adversaries from

Models, No. CD48117, $13.99.

TwoBobs Aviation Graphics, No. 48-258, $14.

TOOLS

1/72 SCALE Painter grip from HobbyZone, No. HZ-PG1, U-2A/C Dragon Lady from Caracal

$35.

Models, No. CD72065, $13.99. Also available in 1/48 CD48118, $14.99.

Large paint stand from HobbyZone, No. HZ-S2xb, $59.

MEDIA

1/144 SCALE AV-8B Harrier II Plus Part 1 from Caracal Models, No. CD48115, $13.99.

F-104 in Vietnam from Caracal Models, No. CD32022, $13.99. Also available in 1/32 and 1/72 CD72064, $13.99.

TAP Air Portugal Lockheed L-1011 from Joy Decals. Contact your local dealer for price information.

Convair F-106 Delta Dart from

Convair F-106 Delta Dart Part 2

Fündekals, $15. Also available in 1/72.

from Fündekals, $15. Also available in 1/72.

Panther, $30, by Thomas Anderson, hardcover, 224 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 9781472827036. From Osprey Publishing

Tiger, $21, by

Pershing vs. Tiger Germany 1945, $20,

D-Day Beach Assault Troops, $19,

by Steven J. Zaloga, softcover, 80 pages, black-and-white photos, ISBN: 9781472817167. From Osprey Publishing.

by Gordon Rottman, softcover, 64 pages, all black-and white photos, ISBN: 9781472819468. From Osprey Publishing.

Thomas Anderson, softcover, 256 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 9781472822048. From Osprey Publishing.

Air Niugini Fokker F-100 from Joy Decals, No. DG14994. Contact your local dealer for price information.

Welcome new manufacturers Joy Decals: www.joydecals.com Kalmbach Publishing Co.: www.kalmbachhobbystore.com Glenn Hoover Plastic Model Builds: www.glennhoovermodels.com 14 FineScale Modeler November 2017

The Philippine Sea 1944, $24, by Mark

Operation Torch 1942, $24, by Brian

Stille, softcover, 96 pages, all black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 9781472819208. From Osprey Publishing.

Lane Herder, softcover, 96 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 9781472820549. From Osprey Publishing.

The History of the Panzerwaffe: Volume 2 1942-45,

US Grenade Launchers, $20, by

$40, by Thomas Anderson, hardcover, 304 pages, all blackand-white photos, ISBN: 9781472814487. From Osprey Publishing.

Gordon L. Rottman, softcover, 80 pages, all color renderings and photos, ISBN: 9781472819529. From Osprey Publishing.

OS2U Model — How to build Kitty Hawk's OS2U Kingfisher, $29.99, by Glenn Hoover, softcover, 150 pages, all color photos. ISBN: 9781545036532. From Glenn Hoover Plastic Model Builds LLC.

Convair Class VF Convoy Fighter The Original Proposal for the XFY-1 Pogo, $14.99, by Jared A Zichek, softcover, 40 pages, black-and-white photos, detailed blueprints color photos, ISBN: 9780996875431. From Retromechanix Productions. Out of This World

MODELING

Lebanon Levantine Calvary 1958-1990, $22.95, by Al J. Venter, softcover, 128 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 9781526707826. From Pen & Sword Books Limited.

Berlin Blockade, $22.95, by Gary Van Tonder, softcover, 128 pages, all black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 9781526708267. From Pen & Sword Books Limited.

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Brewster F2A Buffalo and Export Variants, $39.95, by Steve Ginter, softcover, 176 pages, 391 photos and illustrations, color photos, ISBN: 9780996825863. From Specialty Press.

Maginot Line Gun Turrets, $18, by Clayton Donnell, softcover, 48 pages, color photos and color renderings, ISBN: 9781472820273. From Osprey Publishing.

Out of This World Modeling, $24.99, edited by Aaron Skinner, softcover, 144 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-162700-398-8. From Kalmbach Publishing.

exciting projects from the worlds of science fiction and fantasy comics, film, and TV

Edited by Aaron Skinner

www.FineScale.com

15

AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING By Ayhan Toplu

Take the shine off natural metal Simple weathering recipe for a Turkish delight

A

fter World War II, surplus Spitfires became the backbone of the Turkish air force as 170 Mk.IXs were deployed to several squadrons. I built one of these fighters using Eduard’s 1/48 scale Weekend Edition Spitfire Mk.IXe (No. 84138), adding Eduard pre-colored photo-etch seat belts (No. FE840) and a resin gyroscopic gunsight from Quickboost (No. QB48581).

20,334 Number of Spitfires built from 1938 to 1947 – Encyclopædia Britannica

16 FineScale Modeler November 2017

1 With generally good fits, assembly moved quickly; I used just a little Vallejo Plastic Putty at the front of the intake under the nose. I replaced the kit’s two-part upper cowl with a resin part from Ultracast (No. 48265).

4 I masked panels and sections of the wings and fuselage, then airbrushed Xtreme Metal polished aluminum (AK481) and Alclad II white aluminum (ALC-106), duraluminum (ALC-102), and airframe aluminum (ALC-119).

7 After another coat of PFM, I covered the model with Mig Productions dark wash. The next day, I wiped in the direction of airflow with a clean cloth to remove excess wash and produce a few streaks.

2

3

In preparation for metallic finishes, I airbrushed the airframe with Alclad II jet exhaust (ALC113) rather than the gloss black base coats suggested; I find it provides a better finish.

5

I painted the entire model with AK Interactive Xtreme Metal aluminum (AK479). It provided a sturdy, shiny foundation for the shading that followed.

6

Next, I applied a thin layer of Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM) thinned with isopropyl alcohol and sprayed at high pressure. This seals the metallic finish and sets a smooth foundation for decals.

8

To mark the model, I used TigerHead Decals’ Turkish Spitfires sheet (No. 48009). The thin decals look good on natural metal yet resist tearing during handling. They respond well to Microscale decal solutions.

9

Photos show the antiglare panel was heavily worn. I sprayed hairspray over the nose, then masked and airbrushed it with an acrylic dark gray. I prefer that to black because it looks better in scale.

A short time later, I attacked the dark gray with water on a wide brush. It removed sections of color in a realistically chipped manner.

I attached the landing gear, propeller, and antenna before misting on Microscale Micro Flat to dull the decals and painted surfaces. FSM www.FineScale.com

17

FORM & FIGURE By Joe Hudson

Back in black Patented painting brings out the best in a German officer’s coat

B

lack presents unique challenges for painting clothing. Shadows normally applied by brushing on darker shades aren’t as simple, and highlights can easily produce unrealistic contrasts. But certain figures wear black, including World War II German tank crews. I recently painted a 120mm bust of an officer from the 116th Panzer Division (No. B001) by Alpine Miniatures (www. alpineminiatures.com) with a worn leather jacket. That meant flipping my usual order of adding shadows and highlights.

Formed in early 1944, the 116th Panzer Division fought in Normandy, Hurtgen Forest, and the Ardennes.

Next Issue Joe shows you how to paint realistic rifles and pistols to arm your figures.

18 FineScale Modeler November 2017

Paints used Vallejo Model Color 70.950 Black Andrea Color Blue Paint Set Color No. 2 Vallejo Model Color 70.981 Orange Brown

Vallejo Model Color 70.983 Flat Earth Vallejo Model Color 74.011 Purple Shadow Tamiya XF-19 Sky Gray

1 After cleaning up the resin parts to remove mold seams, I primed the bust with Tamiya sky gray.

4 For highlights, I added a little Vallejo purple shadow to the mix and applied thin layers to the top of folds and the coat’s upper surfaces. More purple produced brighter highlights.

7 For shadows, I added black to the base-color mix and brushed it into creases and corners. Pure black was used for the deepest areas.

10 I mixed purple shadow and a little flat earth, thinned it with water, and brushed it over areas of wear, including prominent creases, collar edges, and seams.

2 Using thin layers, I base-coated the jacket with a mix of Vallejo black and Andrea blue No. 2. If you can’t find the Andrea Blue Paint set, substitute Vallejo Prussian blue (70.965).

5 The thing to avoid with highlights on dark colors is apparent swooshes. For smooth color transitions, I paint highlights with many thin layers of progressively lighter shades.

8 On most colors, I apply shadows before highlights. Altering the order on black colors by painting highlights over a not-quite black base makes it easy to add pure black shadows.

11 More flat earth added to the mix produced highlights on the worn areas. Then, I added thin glazes of pure flat earth to blend the wear and tarnish the leather.

3 For the base, I added a pupil-sized spot of blue to an iris-sized pool of black. I wanted a dark shade with a slight blue hue; by not making it pure black, I was able to add shadows later.

6 If the contrast is too stark, I apply thin glazes of the base color mixed with water over the area to blend everything.

9 After adding shadows and highlights, I could have called the jacket done. But I wanted the figure to look like a combat veteran, so it was time to add some wear and tear.

12 For cracks in the leather, I dabbed flat earth here and there with the tip of a detail brush. I did the same sparingly with orange brown; a little black broke up the wear. FSM www.FineScale.com

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35

tips, tools, & techniques you need

More than three decades of modeling know-how /// BY FSM STAFF

A

fter 35 years, FSM has learned a few things and passed many of them on to you. We’ve collected some of the best tools, techniques, and tips that should be at every workbench, and present them here in no particular order. Many come from the collective wisdom of our staff, contributors, and readers. Narrowing the list to 35 meant leaving out some, and there are probably others we didn’t think to include. (Apparently paint fumes can be detrimental to memory.) If you read this and think we omitted something important, or if there’s a tool you use all the time that we didn’t mention, let us know. Email your ideas to [email protected]

Sanding sticks

Cotton swabs Absorbent and precise, these medicine cabinet goodies are perfect for cleanup and more. Keep them handy when working with putty and glue to wipe away excess without resorting to using your shirttail. Or tip them in thinner to erode a little paint during weathering and finishing. Wrap the end with a thin strip of sandpaper to smooth difficult corners. Swabs are also crucial when cleaning your airbrush. You can buy them by the hundreds at drug stores, but look for precise shapes at medical supply outlets. Just remember, you can shove them inside a gear bay or airbrush — but don’t insert them in your ear. 20 FineScale Modeler November 2017

You can never have too many sanding sticks! Professional results come from smooth seams without gaps or a hint of extra plastic around the edge. Compared to sandpaper, sticks give you more control and cushion your hardworking hands. Stock up on a variety of grits. (The higher the number, the finer the grit.)

Pin vise Think of this as a miniature hand-powered drill. You can usually purchase a set that includes the handle and several bits in various sizes. More can be had in a bit index. You’ll use it to make locator holes for antennas and rigging, bore out gun barrels, and drill holes in plastic, soft metal, and wood.

Masking tape

Clothespins

Adding color to your model would be impossible without this stuff. Use it to protect what you don’t want to be painted and to produce clean lines. If you suspect it might lift an underlying color, try pressing a piece against an article of clothing, your hand, or a piece of glass to reduce the tack before placing it on the model.

Head to the laundry room for this modeling necessity. These cheap clamps squeeze together thin parts as glue or cement dries. For more versatility, disassemble and reverse the wooden claws to create a more precise opening with pointed tips.

Motor tool If you’re planning major modifications, such as revamping a ship hull or airplane fuselage, you’ll want to add a motor tool to your arsenal — excess plastic fears this rotating weapon. Interchangeable heads including sanding drums, buffing wheels, grinders of various shapes, cutting burrs (show above), and cut-off wheels make this a versatile tool. Wear eye and respiratory protection.

www.FineScale.com

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Toothpicks

Magnifying eyewear Not just a fashion accessory, these google-eyed glasses keep the tiny — but important — details of a model in focus. The magnification allows you to clip, place, and glue microscopic pieces with ease, and the end results will be visiblly improved.

Use these tiny tools to apply tiny amounts of product to tiny parts — paint, glue, cement, and putty can be handled precisely with this sturdy point. They can also be used to position decals, stir paint, and hold small parts. Word to the wise: Round toothpicks are sturdier and more precise than their flat cousins.

Airbrush

Putty

A splurge, definitely, but worth every cent — it’s precision painting at your fingertips. Imagine no more drippy spray-can paint and the end of pesky brush marks, both replaced by smooth, even coats. Choose from single- or double-action brushes with a variety of paint-feed options.

There are three basic types of putty to choose from: solvent, water-based, and two-part epoxy. They all have unique consistencies, and some smell worse than others. Water-based putties are great for small gaps and can be smoothed with a damp cotton swab or finger. Try solvent-based putty for larger gaps, but beware of shrinkage as it dries. Epoxy putty holds its shape, so it’s perfect for adding layers and reshaping models.

Hobby knife This multipurpose essential comes in handy throughout the building process for cutting, trimming, and shaving. Blades of various shapes and sizes can be fitted to universal handles to cut parts from sprues, scribe panel lines in plastic, shape styrene and putty, and cut out decals. Keep bandages nearby to staunch inevitable wounds; the best blades are sharp, and blood does nothing to improve models. 22 FineScale Modeler November 2017

Silly Putty masking In the serious search for the perfect mask, it’s hard to beat Silly Putty. The toy goo can be easily manipulated, making it especially good for curves and irregular camouflage. It sticks pretty well to plastic without leaving a residue, settles into details and panel lines, produces a sharp painted edge, and is reusable. Buy your own: It’s really not right to take it from a kid.

Respirator mask

Vino for modeling

All paint fumes and no breathing protection make modelers a loopy, hacking lot. Keep your health intact with a high-quality respirator when airbrushing and you’ll be building for years to come.

Who says alcohol and modeling don’t mix? Check out the many useful parts from wine bottles. The cork, or sections of it, can become a paint stand: Stick toothpicks or pins into the soft material and attach small parts. Some bottles have lead foil around the neck that can be shaped into tarps, bedrolls, flags, and other items. Metal caps can be used for mixing paints, putties, or glues. Champagne and other effervescent wines have a fine wire retainer that can be disassembled for many uses. Cincin!

Tweezers When your fingers can’t reach inside a model or you can’t hang onto rigging wire, it’s time to reach for tweezers. Choose the correct shape for the job. Pointed tips hold microscopic details when even your pinky finger would be considered gargantuan in comparison. You’ll want the flat-tipped variety when picking up and maneuvering decals so as not to tear them. When you want to be sure the part stays in the jaws, reach for the crosslocking variety.

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The jig is up

Buff for proper paint coverage It can be tempting to apply an exterior color in one thick coat. It’s easy and fast — but it produces horrible results. Instead, apply paint in thin coats, letting each one dry fully. After each coat has dried, take a worn, soft T-shirt and gently buff the paint. This removes any dust or hair that landed on your model during painting, and the buffing produces a slight sheen in the finish that makes it less susceptible to fingernail scratches. Also, buffing helps prevent paint buildup in tight corners.

Duct-tape white sheet styrene to the underside of a sheet of glass. With the glass side up, tape basswood scraps and blocks to the surface to support the model you’re working on. No matter what you are working on, this jig can easily be adjusted to keep everything square — and it’s portable. It can be rotated to check assemblies from all angles. Alternatively, use Lego blocks to construct simpleto-modify assembly jigs.

From the mouths of babes

New-millennium modeling

Baby-food applesauce containers make great, cheap parts holders — and the applesauce ain’t bad, either.

Clear space on your workbench for a laptop or tablet to keep photos and information at your fingertips. Organize each subject into individual folders and you’ll save hours that you once spent looking for that one specifc picture.

Pre-and post-shading Few modeling techniques have garnered as much controversy as shading before or after the main colors are on the model. Increasingly popular on contest tables and in the modeling press, pre- and postshading have triggered conversations about realism versus artistry. Both seek to replicate the play of light and add visual 24 FineScale Modeler November 2017

interest to monochromatic finishes. Pre-shading can be as simple as painting black or another dark color along panel lines or in recesses. Or it can involve painting various sections or panels contrasting shades. The ultimate expression of pre-shading is the current trend of using black underneath a vehicle and white topside. No matter the method, the contrast-

ing base coat alters subsequent layers. Post-shading relies upon lighter and darker shades of the base colors to produce similar effects. Thin layers of progressively lighter colors airbrushed into panels is one approach. Color modulation transfers the idea to the entire model with the application of lighter shades higher on the model, sometimes panel by panel.

A different angle To check alignment of long lines, such as cheat lines or boot stripes, hold the model upside down and sight from ahead or astern. Misalignments seem to stand out better that way — what looks straight when the model is right-side up can look entirely different when it’s inverted. Works for decals, too.

Brush painting Airbrushing is the norm for finishing models these days, but there’s no getting away from handbrushing. It’s essential for painting details and figures — and there are some modelers who paint entire models by hand. It can be hard to master, but a few tricks make it easier. Before touching the paint, dip the brush in thinner appropriate for the type of paint you are using; this prevents paint from drying in the bristles. Apply paint in smooth, even strokes to minimize brush strokes. And always clean the brush immediately after painting, re-forming its tip and standing it upright to dry. Treat your brushes well and they’ll always deliver a finish you can be proud of.

Stretching sprue

A prime directive

We don’t know the name of the genius who thought to combine sprue and flame, but millions of models have been detailed with what is otherwise scrap to be tossed or recycled. The method is simple: Hold a piece of plastic tree over a candle. (The diameter isn’t critical, but it should be long enough to hold onto without burning your fingers), and when the plastic begins to bend, grab both ends and pull them steadily apart as you remove the plastic from the heat. The result should be a thin strand of plastic with endless applications, including rigging ships and biplanes, aircraft and vehicle antennas, weld seams, and filling gaps.

It’s a hobby! Don’t take it too seriously. If you’ve spent three days researching whether that rivet should be 2mm or 3mm from that other rivet, and you still haven’t come up with a definitive answer, chances are, no one else will know whether it’s right or wrong. Mind you, if you have spent three days on that, you really ought to get out more.

Flowing in liquid cement After years of struggling with the stringy nightmare that is tube cement, discovering that you can join parts by holding them together and touching a brush loaded with liquid cement to the seam is nothing short of miraculous. Neat joins and no mess … unless your finger crosses the join and thin solvent leeches between your skin and the surface.

www.FineScale.com

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Circle templates Building tanks brings with it the joy of painting road wheels — so many road wheels. Circle templates used for technical drawing make the job a snap. First, paint the wheels a dark gray or tire color. Then, center the opening on the template that matches the part over the wheel and airbrush the camouflage color. Place tape over the neighboring openings to prevent overspray.

Sludge wash

Adding LEDs

Washes that add shadows and depth to recesses are mixed from artist’s oils and turpentine. Acrylic washes didn’t stick until somebody discovered that adding a little dish soap to the mix broke the liquid’s surface tension. Slather the mix on, let it dry, and then remove excess with a damp cloth to leave the dark paint in panel lines.

What was once almost exclusively the province of science fiction modelers, lighting models has gained a following with aircraft, car, and even armor modelers, thanks to the profusion of inexpensive miniature LEDs in the last 15 years. It’s even possible to light a spaceship or aircraft with a $7 string of battery-powered decorative lights from a party-supply store. Ready-to-use and modular circuits have made special effects and animation easier.

Painting wheels and tires

Powders and pigments As Shep Paine said in How to Build Dioramas, “Nothing duplicates dust so perfectly as pastels, and nothing is so simple.” Artist’s pastel chalks ground on sandpaper and applied with a brush have been joined in recent years by purpose-made powdered pigments with environment-specific shades like Russian earth and rubble, and often a binder that helps keep them on the model. Combining them with fixers, solvents, sand, plaster, and static grass produces all kinds of textures and effects.

26 FineScale Modeler November 2017

After airbrushing wheel hubs, you can paint tires with a paintbrush: First, using very thin black paint, touch the brush to the hub or wheel rim. Capillary action will draw the thin paint around it. Once that dries, hand-brush the rest of the tire.

Hairspray weathering Personal-care products, such as emery boards, tweezers, and toothpicks, have long had a place on workbenches. But when FSM was young, it would have been unheard of for modelers to have a can of hairspray at hand. Turns out, the stuff that supported so many hairdos in the ’60s works great as a paint-release agent, and it’s perfect for producing realistically worn camouflage. After painting a model — green on a Soviet T-34, for example — spray two or three generous layers of hairspray. Then apply an acrylic overcoat, wait 20-30 minutes and attack the just-applied paint with brushes and water. The results are stunning.

Dipping canopies for clarity

As clean as before

FSM’s first mention of using Future, now known as Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM) was in a March 1995 story about canopies by Rodney Williams. The impact of the glossy acrylic floor finish on the hobby is impossible to understate; nearly every aircraft and car modeler mentions using it on almost every model to give the clear parts extra shine. It’s a simple process that can make the cab or cockpit, arguably the face of the vehicle, look better. Submerge the part in a container of PFM, then slowly remove it, allowing the liquid to flow down the surface and off the piece. After dragging the edges across a paper towel to blot away excess, put it under cover to dry. Two days later, the windows will be clearer.

To keep workbench and spray booths clean, cover them with plastic food wrap such as Glad Press ’n Seal. It sticks to itself and to smooth surfaces, often without tape. When you finish a project, take up the wrap and your work area be as clean as it was before — and ready for the next model.

Quick paint removal Plastic parts stick together better when they are free of paint. The easiest way to clean paint from attachment points is to wipe it off with liquid styrene cement (Testors works well). Using a micro brush, apply just a little cement, wipe off the brush, then use it to wipe away paint. Keep the quantities small and repeat as needed. When the paint’s off, join the parts. You may not need to, but you can flow a little more cement into the join and you will have a good bond.

Hot decals When decal solvents aren’t enough, turn up the heat to settle decals over shapes. After sliding the decal into position and blotting excess water with a cotton swab, train a hairdryer on the spot and watch the magic happen — in no time the decal will settle tightly on the surface. FSM

www.FineScale.com

27

Fitting tribute Aftermarket add-ons and careful details yield an award-winning model BY JOE SIMON

I

n April 1945, the light cruiser Yahagi accom- Hasegawa dedicated photo-etch sets) as a panied the great battleship Yamato and eight Christmas gift from my wife. destroyers on a suicide mission that would The kit is very well done, but there are always spell the end of the Japanese navy. Their orders improvements one can make to any kit. In addition to the numerous Hasegawa aftermarket were to attack the American invasion force at items, I replaced all anti-aircraft guns and ship Okinawa — but none of the ships ever reached their objective. Yahagi was attacked by nearly 400 binoculars with Veteran Models resin. I also used an aircraft catapult and maintenance railing from aircraft and took a torpedo in the engine room during the first wave, leaving it dead in the water. Alliance Model Works, and hose reels and ammo lockers from Flyhawk. Less than two hours later, after a brutal pounding, Yahagi capsized with the loss of 445 hands. The ship is painted with enamels from White Fascinated by the ship, I was excited when I Ensign Models: IJN Sasebo in gray areas, IJN received Hasegawa’s kit (along with all three linoleum for the main deck, and IJN hull red.

28 FineScale Modeler November 2017

Commissioned at the end of 1943, the Imperial Japanese Navy light cruiser Yahagi was the third of four ships in the Agano-class. For almost all its career it was an exceedingly lucky ship, coming through battles in the Philippine Sea, Leyte Gulf, Sibuyan Sea, and Samar with no damage. Hasegawa’s 1/350 scale kit is excellent — but there is always room for improvement.

1 I cut off the molded maintenance railings on the funnel to install photoetch (PE) replacements.

3 The completed funnel assembly shows fine PE details.

2 Hasegawa provided a detailed (and quite complicated) PE funnel cap grille assembly.

4 Plastic propeller shafts were replaced with brass rod. www.FineScale.com

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Diamond plate

5

Wind deflectors

I opened up the molded solid-plastic wind deflectors on the bridge, a tedious process that required extensive drilling and scraping. I then smoothed plastic burrs by melting them with liquid cement.

6 I damaged some tread plate on the main superstructure, so I scraped it off, stamped aluminum foil onto some PE tread plate in my spares box, and glued the foil on. Ammo lockers

7

8

Such small anti-aircraft guns are always difficult to properly represent in plastic. I replaced them all with Veteran Models sets: 28 single and 10 triple-mount 25mm guns. Each triple mount included 10 or 11 pieces of brass and resin. You see them all over the ship.

Yahagi had several ammunition lockers placed around the anti-aircraft guns. I replaced those with PE from Flyhawk and LionRoar and drybrushed all five sides of each one.

Science!

9 I erred when building the main mast: The plastic wasn’t strong enough to support the rigging and it bowed under the strain of the lines. I had to cut out the main portion and replace it with brass rod. I was able to save the upper portion with the PE yardarms already installed. Since the aft superstructure was already glued, I had to rehoist the main mast on board. I built a jig to ensure alignment with the foremast. 30 FineScale Modeler November 2017

10

Stretched sprue

The foremast is a tripod with plastic bracing that looked too thick; I cut it out and replaced it with stretched sprue.

11 Hasegawa’s Yahagi came with a plastic bridge window; I used a PE frame replacement from one of the detail sets and Testors Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker for the glass.

12 All main 5.9-inch gun barrels are brass replacements from a Hasegawa detail set. Not shown here, I used Master Model brass barrels on the 3.7inch guns.

Hose reel

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Brass tie-down strips for the linoleum decks were molded features in the kit. I removed them for replacements from Flyhawk, which took three months. First, I removed the plastic; then I drilled tiny pilot holes so I would know where to put the replacements; then I painted the hull and deck; and, finally, I super glued the strips. Glossing the entire deck with Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish erased glue marks.

Creating hose reels with PE and thread, it’s difficult to wind the thread around the reel’s tiny axle. Instead, I wound brown thread around a 3-inch segment of .025-inch styrene rod, working it back and forth to get the desired diameter. Then I soaked it with thin super glue; I could now saw through the thread and cut pieces to fit in between the PE reel ends. With Testors Dullcote, it looked as if I had wound each hose reel.

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I spent many hours detailing the ship’s boats with PE oars, windows, rudders, life rings, and screws.

I rigged the main loop with 1.5-pound fly-fishing line and used stretched sprue for all other lines. I painted the lines black before installation and tightened them with a small iron I have for covering R/C aircraft with stretchable film. www.FineScale.com

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The catapult is a PE replacement from Alliance Model Works.

Yahagi carried two Aichi E13A “Jake” floatplanes. I passed up the plastic for PE float bracing and radars. I also used the PE props. The plastic canopies didn’t look right, but Flyhawk provided PE frames; they had to be carefully folded and rolled into shape. Window-making glue filled the frames with “glass.”

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Prominent on Agano-class cruisers was the aircraft-handling platform amidships. I chose the PE option and was happy with the result. This assembly took 50 hours.

The two torpedo launchers …

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… and the main gun director were kits themselves with extensive PE.

The PE crane from the Hasegawa set was a fold-up that left ugly seams. I cut it apart and reassembled it to look more like one piece, rigging it with stretched sprue.

32 FineScale Modeler November 2017

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This ladder was from Flyhawk; I created canvas awnings using Elmer’s glue painted with panzer interior buff.

I treated the anchor chain with Blacken-It before installation.

I thoroughly enjoyed building this wonderful kit. It took a lot longer than expected, due to the numerous modifications and the use of the three Hasegawa detail sets, but 955 hours later I had my Yahagi. As of this writing, it’s been to three shows and won eight medals! FSM

Piano-wire/brass-rod jackstaff PE rail all around Resin/brass turrets/AA guns

PE radar

Stretched-sprue mast supports PE funnel cap, rails PE aircraft crane

Brass strip for linoleum deck Fly-line and stretched-sprue rigging

“Jakes”

Thread/PE hose reels

Brass-rod shafts

PE ammo lockers Brass depth charges

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Minutes Yahagi lasted after being stopped by a torpedo hit

More at www.FineScale.com Visit us to see more of Joe’s model and read about the Yahagi’s short and fatal career. www.FineScale.com

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Put

Inspired by Soviet armor on the Eastern Front, the Germans sought to field bigger guns using a 38(d) chassis, a larger German build of the Czech-built PzKpfw 38(t). The design was deemed impractical, but that didn’t stop Trumpeter from tooling a kit.

PIZAZZ in a paper panzer! Detailing Trumpeter’s 1/35 scale 12.8cm PaK 44 Waffenträger Krupp 1 /// BY KARL LOGAN

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affenträgers (self-propelled weapons carriers) fascinate me. Many of them were “one-off ” prototypes, and some were only conceptual designs that never cast a shadow in the light of day. In recent years, several kit manufacturers have delved into this unorthodox aspect of World War II German armor to produce an exciting array of vehicles, such as Trumpeter’s 1/35 scale 12.8cm PaK 44 Waffenträger Krupp 1 (kit No. 05523), a model that brings a Krupp drawing to life. The vehicle never went into production, although the big gun found its way onto the 70-ton Jagdtiger (77 produced) and was envisioned for the gargantuan 188-ton Maus. The kit supplies some wonderful amenities: optional photo34 FineScale Modeler November 2017

etched (PE) brass parts; an optional metal barrel for the 12.8cm gun; and, most surprisingly, workable Modelkasten tracks! The model is understandably light on other details — like tools and practical exterior fittings — as one might expect of a “paper panzer” existing only in drawings. I see it as a welcome opportunity to customize and individualize my own rendering. There’ll be no, “Sorry, but that wasn’t on the real vehicle.” I imagined this as a hasty marriage of gun and hull: The hull would be primer red, other parts dark yellow or German tricolor camouflage, and the barrel dark gray primer. Then, perhaps, a stowage box from a knocked-out wreck, a Notek light, wheels off some other assembly line, and sundry tools attached to the hull.

1 The “pepper pot” muzzle brake is supplied in PE and plastic, but you have to drill out the latter. I had trouble shaping the PE …

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… until I used the plastic piece that helps mount the brake as a mandrel to form the PE with a flatblade pliers, working one side and then the other.

Soldered

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I knew glue wouldn’t hold the piece together; I soldered it instead, then cleaned up the seam with a needle file.

After smoothing and mounting the brake, I coated the assembly with Tamiya gray primer.

Guitar string

5 The sight tower is a wonderfully complex piece of engineering that takes care to properly align.

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I attached the sight and mounted the cannon between the trunnion halves.

Strip styrene

For a spare-track rack, I mounted two strips of .015- x .080-inch styrene, then perpendicular .040- x .040-inch strips top and bottom to make an L that cradled the tracks. I assembled a run of eight tracks, drilled out the end, threaded guitar string through to anchor it, and added a retaining strip of .015- x .080-inch styrene.

Resin bolt

Handle

Styrene rod

8 The vehicle’s recoil spades had no mechanism to raise or lower them. I drilled out styrene rod to make a hydraulic lifter, inserting another rod for a piston.

11 I made cleaning rods from .035-inch styrene rod and placed them in scratchbuilt frames and holders I formed from thick styrene strip using needle files.

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Third pintle

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Hook

The hydraulics’ attachment points are made from styrene scraps and detailed with resin bolts from Verlinden. I replaced molded towing pintles at the rear hull with better detail built from styrene stock; same for an additional towing pintle at the center.

I put small handles on the spades and secured them with eye bolts formed from thin wire. Retaining hooks are made from the same wire and a piece of styrene tube.

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A coat of Tamiya gray primer homogenized the colors of plastic and PE before I proceeded with Tamiya acrylic paints.

I mixed a primer red with Tamiya hull red (XF-9) plus drops of gloss red and black; adding Tamiya clear gave me a semigloss hue I airbrushed onto the hull and wheels. www.FineScale.com

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14 I wanted to try some subtle color modulation: graduated shades that mimic the play of light on an object. After misting straight gloss red atop the hull and on sloped panels, I added Tamiya buff (XF-57) and used custom-cut index cards to direct highlights to selected upper-hull panels.

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To complete the effect, I added black to the base mixture and used the same index cards to mask while airbrushing darker shades in lower and recessed areas. It looks garish now, but weathering and filters will unify the hues.

Left to right, the three main shades used for color modulation: The darkest goes down low, under the fenders and in other recesses; the mid-tone is the prevalent base color; and the lightest goes on salients and upper and sloped plates, areas that would catch more light.

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Much of the gun assembly will be in tricolor camo, starting with a darkened shade of dark yellow (XF-60) to which I added some dark gray (XF-24).

Next, I airbrushed a partial coat of straight dark yellow to perhaps 85% of the assembly, focusing on upper surfaces. Then I added buff and white to the dark yellow, striving for a “scale effect” of light shining on the vehicle.

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The wheels are a two-toned dark yellow sprayed on the outside only, as I imagined they might have been hastily painted. After applying red brown and panzer green for the tricolor camo, I painted the cannon barrel a dark gray primer color. Is there a “correct” color for that? I think not.

After an Ammo of Mig Jimenez filter (“Gray for Dark Yellow”) for a dusty gray base, dot filters produce a subtle patina of varied hues. Mig’s 502 Abteilung oils were used: faded dark yellow (actually an orangish tint); primer red (brighter than my own mix); and buff. I dipped my brush in Mig’s “Thinner for Washes” (a slowdrying enamel thinner) as I applied each color.

Using a larger brush with soft bristles dipped in the same thinner, I spread the colors, diluting them until they were barely discernible. I let this layer dry for about 30 minutes, then depicted dust by brushing fullstrength buff on the inner fenders, then working it out of the recesses with a clean, dry brush.

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Whack!

For sag

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It’s important to step away and let the oils dry and cure; they will change slightly in intensity and hue as they do. A few hours later, I continued to tinker, adding more color where it seemed monochromatic or dull. Add weathering in layers: the more layers, the better.

I weathered wheels with random washes of colors from the 502 line as well as raw umber, Van Dyke brown, and other artist’s oils: Buff and white faded the base color; dark pin washes deepened recesses and picked out bolts. I thinned Mig’s shadow brown oil and banged it off the brush so it would splatter the wheels.

I built two runs of track, brushed them with Testors liquid cement, and left them for an hour. When they were set but still pliable, I formed them around wheels, idlers, and sprockets (placed not glued on their pegs) and put balls of tissue at key points for sags. After the glue hardened, I removed the tracks and patiently added the track pins to each link.

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I applied Tamiya gray primer, painted the tracks Tamiya flat brown, and coated them with a mix of raw umber, Mig gray, and black oils, followed by Mig industrial city dirt pigment on the still-wet tracks. I scraped the pigments from the track bars and set them aside to dry, then dry-brushed with metallic gray and an even-lighter round of silver.

Modeling chipped and worn paint shows wear. I mix Testors enamels — rubber and silver — and dark artist’s oils like raw umber and black in varying ratios on a flat brush, dab most of it off on a paper card, then drag and drop, or drybrush edges.

The last steps were to dirty up the recoil spades. I mixed various shades of Mig pigments with some real dirt and Mig acrylic resin. Mig’s “Wet Effects” and “Grease and Oil Effects” simulate puddles, grease, and oil drips and stains in various locations.

Tricolor camo PE, soldered

Color modulation

Pigments, dirt

Scratchbuilt track rack

Pigments on tracks

Tools from spares

Spattered wheels

Scratchbuilt hydraulics

With the model complete, I happily cleared room for it in my crowded display case. I always enjoy a well-engineered model that leaves room for inventive, creative customization and personalization. FSM www.FineScale.com

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SHOW GALLERY

WonderFest USA 2017 Already charming, Louisville, Ky., became a little more fantastic in early June as hundreds of modelers descended on the city, dragging with them scale spaceships and vehicles as well as figures from science fiction, fantasy, and horror movies, comics, and TV. The three-day event features an out-ofthis-world vendor room with plenty of stash-padding goodies, guest speakers, classes, and the Amazing Model Contest. This year’s record-setting competition hosted 744 entries. FSM’s intrepid editor, Mark Savage, and his sidekick of questionable usefulness, Aaron Skinner, were on hand to chronicle the festivities; here are just a handful of the creations on display.

GREG MAIOCCO EBENSBURG, PENNSYLVANIA First published in 1936, The Phantom predates Batman and Superman and is one of the longest-running costumed comic heroes. To detail Action Hobbies’ 1/12 scale model of the Ghost Who Walks and his wolf, Devil, Greg added a skull, sword, and JTT Scenery Products foliage to the base, and red ribbon to the signpost. He painted with acrylics and enamels from Testors, Citadel, Vallejo, and Delta Ceramcoat.

More wonder to be had You can see other terrific models from WonderFest in Great Scale Modeling 2017, on sale November 14. Order your copy now at KalmbachHobbyStore.com. 38 FineScale Modeler November 2017

MIKE STARLING FAYETTEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA To power up Bandai’s 1/72 scale TIE Interceptor, Mike lit the cockpit and engines with Micro Litz chip LEDs. After priming the model with Badger Stynylrez black, he masked the solar panels on the wings and airbrushed Vallejo Model Air medium gray. Then he airbrushed AK Interactive blue for panzer gray filter and wiped away excess to emphasize panel lines and recesses.

▲ PAUL RATHBUN

BOTHELL, WASHINGTON



After applying Tamiya white primer to GK8U8O’s 1/4 scale Honey Bee, Paul painted it with acrylics from GarageKitsUSA, Vallejo, Golden, and Citadel, using tape and Silly Putty masks. Transparent layers of color and pastels provided subtle skin tones.

When Disneyland opened in July 1955, the tallest structure in the park was the TWA Moonliner. Jim replaced the clear windows in Glencoe’s 1/144 scale kit with decals and modified the spurious Fastway titles to represent the original livery.

JIM JAMES WINTER GARDEN, FLORIDA

▲ TREVOR YLISAARI

CONNEAUT, OHIO Painting thin layers of acrylic paint over spray-can primer, Trevor brought life to Little Pumpkin Head, a whimsical resin model from Jean-Louis Crinon. He replaced a lost chain with string.

▲ CHRISTOPHER HAYS

O’FALLON, MISSOURI Christopher painted Three Kings’ resin bust featuring figures and scenes from the Alien franchise with GarageKits.US acrylics. Pastels provided shading and effects. www.FineScale.com

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SHOW GALLERY ◀ KENNETH LEISHMAN

LUTZ, FLORIDA Working outside the box, Kenneth finished Bandai’s 1/72 scale A-wing with painted markings and salt weathering to represent a fighter flown by Hera Syndulla in the animated series Star Wars Rebels. Tails added to the pilot’s head identified the Twi’lek at the controls.

▶ CHARLES WILLIAMS

FULTON, MISSOURI Charles primed Wayne Hansen’s District 9 “prawn” with Vallejo white, then layered Vallejo acrylics and Testors enamels to replicate the alien’s skin. Vallejo Water Effects added glossy life to the eyes and tentacles.

C. TROY FLUHR SHERIDAN, COLORADO To pose a Möwe glider from Hayao Miyazaki’s anime Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind in flight, Troy suspended the 1/20 scale model on wire above a ceramic tile. Cotton balls secured with white glue hid the stand behind a layer of clouds. He painted the models with various acrylics and detailed the figure and aircraft with paint and ink washes. “It is from the very first anime I saw at age 10 — it’s been my favorite since,” Troy says.

JOHN LESTER LAKE VILLA, ILLINOIS “Just another Earth Alliance Starfury,” says John of his Revell 1/72 scale fighter from Babylon 5. He replaced the guns with cannons from Starship Modeler and scratchbuilt pylons and missiles for the wings. Over a base coat of Wal-Mart spray-can gray, he airbrushed details with Tamiya acrylics, applied Starship Modeler decals, and weathered with acrylic ink washes and pastel streaks.

▶ ROB SCHMITT

COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO After building Polar Lights’ 1/1000 scale Romulan Bird of Prey out of the box, Rob painted it with acrylics, including Testors Model Master for the body and ComArt transparent smoke for shading. Using a sponge, he decorated the base to resemble a nebula. 40 FineScale Modeler November 2017

THOMAS AGUIAR COLUMBUS, OHIO Played by Kate Beckinsale in the Underworld films, Selene is a vampire who has spent centuries battling werewolves. Thomas hand-painted C&D Nightmare Productions 1/6 scale kit with acrylics and applied pastel shading.

www.FineScale.com

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SHOW GALLERY RICHARD LOBINSKE CRAWFORDSVILLE, FLORIDA Revell released its 1/48 scale Gemini spacecraft in 1964 when Project Gemini was in full swing. Richard built it as Gemini IV from June 1965, the flight in which Edward White took America’s first spacewalk. RealSpace Models’ resin and Space Model Systems decals accurized the model for the mission; the astronaut is 3D-printed from Max Grueter Studios at Shapeways.

ERIN LANTZ TAMPA, FLORIDA Erin detailed Ugh! Models 1/1000 scale Klingon D4-class cruiser with wire for the supports. To model an old ship in need of a trip to the dry dock, he airbrushed a base coat then applied various greens with a sponge. 42 FineScale Modeler November 2017

HAROLD WHOLF CLEBURNE, TEXAS “Get away from her you …” With those words Ripley launches into a knock-down, drag-out-of-the-airlock fight with the xenomorph queen at the climax of Aliens. Harold cut the power loader’s lifting claws apart to pose them, scribed panel lines, and added LEDs and a circuit board to power the rotating beacon. He painted the loader with Tamiya spray-can chrome yellow and weathered it with pencils and pastels; Ripley was painted with acrylics.

DAVE METZNER MISHAWAKA, INDIANA Dave works for Moebius Models, and was lucky enough to build a pre-production sample of the company’s forthcoming 1/8 scale Wonder Woman. He base-coated the superhero with enamels and craft acrylics, and finished with artist’s oils.

www.FineScale.com

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Warp a warrior Oilcanning and weathering Hasegawa’s 1/72 scale Tony BY ROGÉRIO “RATO” MARCZAK

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lthough a camouflaged Ki-61 Hein would have been standard, I decided to push my learning curve and try for the stressed-skin look on Hasegawa’s famous Tony. To add to my education, I also created rivets, reworked the oversimplified cockpit, and scratchbuilt wheel wells.

Oilcanning: When sheet metal buckles and contorts due to stretching and pressure, causing a wavy appearance. 44 FineScale Modeler November 2017

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The upper wings prevented the wells from going too deep as I corrected the details.

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After several polishings, the plastic looks appropriately warped and buckled.

Stressing the skin For a change, I didn’t start an airplane with the cockpit but by scratchbuilding part of the wheel wells, which look spurious straight out of the box. The circular areas of the wells were removed and replaced by two new vacuum-formed ceilings containing the characteristic slot running parallel to the leading edge of the wing, 1. While closely studying plans of the lifesize Tony, I used a blue marker to copy the stressed-skin look, 2. With a U-shaped scraper, I followed the lines to dig up the plastic and create a soft ripple effect. After a lot of sanding and polishing, I ended up with a nice oilcanned surface, 3. I rescribed panel lines eliminated by sanding and reproduced fasteners and screws, 4. At this point, the wings were primed and clear wingtip lights were

Accurate plans of the plane were crucial when developing the stressedskin look.

Warning: Rescribing panel lines is the most boring task in the building process. At least those on the wings are flat.

installed, 5. All that successful work on the wing increased my confidence — my chance of also doing an acceptable job on the fuselage increased considerably. Before beginning, I replaced the kit’s oversimplified cockpit. I used the original floor, pilot’s seat, a Quickboost gunsight, and photo-etched seat belts. The rest was scratchbuilt, 6. I corrected a few points after the fuselage halves were glued together. First, the nose-gun openings were drilled and trued. Next, I checked the wing dihedral and added a plastic shim along the port wing root to make it even. After observing in wartime photos that parked Hiens with the radiator flap down was common, I decided to do the same, even though that would make a scratchbuilt radiator grille another mandatory item in the project. As for the

stressed skin and riveting, I repeated the same steps used on the wings, 7. The fuselage was then mated to the wing. The fit was excellent, even for a kit of this vintage. Thick shapes of tin foil represented panels and access doors. After the model is painted, these raised areas contrast nicely with the recessed details, adding interest, 8.

Painting and weathering Knowing there was a lot of handling and rough weathering in this model’s future, I opted for a durable paint. The first application of straight Alclad II white aluminum covered the whole of the aircraft, 9. I played with the contrast on the ailerons by masking the raised ribs and airbrushing Vallejo flat varnish. The elevators were painted in IJA gray green, 10. www.FineScale.com

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Once the scribing and riveting was complete, I washed the parts with India ink to check the results.

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Remember how tedious rescribing flat panel lines was? Well, doing the same on curved surfaces, such as the fuselage, is both tedious and complicated. This freehand work was well worth it in the end, though.

Next, the walkways on the wing roots and the antiglare area of the nose were painted with a mixture of Tamiya black, white, and blue flat colors. The leading edges were painted yellow mixed with a drop of red. I used paints diluted with water for both the black and yellow areas — this reduces adherence, making paint chipping easy. Using a toothpick to scrape away tiny bits of paint, I followed panel borders and then added more chips to the interior of the panels, always in a random pattern. Then I vigorously scrubbed the antiglare area of the nose with an abrasive pad, 11. I wanted to avoid gaudy camouflage and markings — not only would this obscure the stressed skin, but I also wanted to depict a warbird recently delivered to its Sentai. Most Hiens were delivered devoid 46 FineScale Modeler November 2017

I didn’t go nuts adding detail to the fuselage interior because the canopy would be closed.

Thick shapes of foil, representing raised panels and access doors, can be dry-brushed to bring out their appearance.

of camouflage or markings, to be hastily camouflaged in the field. My Ki-61 represents an aircraft already familiar with combat, but before receiving its camouflage. The hinomaru (national insignia) were painted with a mix of Tamiya flat paints and Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish to produce a semigloss finish. To show a replaced aileron, I white-banded and camouflaged the starboard aileron, then painted a mismatched hinomaru, 12. The landing gear was refined with bolts, holes, and other missing bits. After installing the brake lines, the struts were painted half silver and half khaki. After a dark brown oil wash, I dry-brushed the assembly and picked out small details with silver. The landing gear doors were thinned and riveted. As in many Japanese aircraft, the inner wheel bay doors were shut

mechanically by the action of the main wheels — a mechanism completely missed by Hasegawa. I made them from scratch using plastic bits and treated them as I did the landing gear legs. The radiator and its movable door were scratchbuilt and installed after the fuselage was assembled. The propeller blades and the spinner were painted dark brown, oil-washed, and chipped with a sponge and silver ink. I painted each auxiliary fuel tank with a slightly different shade of yellow and then dabbed the tanks with liquid mask using a sponge. Once dry, I airbrushed a thin coat of Tamiya smoke and then rubbed the liquid mask off. The whole airframe was weathered with a gentle dark brown and black oil wash, 13. Oil streaks under the engine simulated

9 A few drops of stainless steel added to the aluminum changed the tone of the spar, gun bay hatches, plus a few other panels.

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10 While I painted the elevators IJA gray green, I stuck with aluminum dope for the ailerons after reading that it was common for them to be different colors. Different subcontractors, perhaps?

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This is the reason I chose a durable base color: the Alclad remained unharmed through the extensive chipping.

I painted the national insignia with homemade vinyl masks made out of stencils from an old Aeromaster sheet.

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In some places, I let the dark brown and black oil wash act as a highlighter for the rivets; in others, as a filter.

The last weathering task was to apply the exhaust stains with airbrushed GSI Creos soot acrylic. www.FineScale.com

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Most areas with short grass were airbrushed with a highly thinned light brown to simulate dead or sunburned grass.

I finished the palm tree with fronds of homemade photo-etch. Other foliage came from my spares box.

With everything finished, my Hien was placed in a parking area of Boram airfield in Wewak, Papua New Guinea.

fluid marks. I applied an “airwash” (airbrushed brown and black acrylics, heavily thinned) along selected panels, sometimes using more black, sometimes more brown. More silver, applied with a sponge, produced chipping here and there, 14. I stopped weathering there, to maintain the stressed skin and riveting effect.

Adding to the base I wanted to depict a parking area of Boram airfield, one of the many improvised air48 FineScale Modeler November 2017

fields used by the Japanese around Wewak. This shows my model as a possible replacement aircraft from 68 Sentai. I started the base with a layer of craft putty, which was finger-molded to add relief. When it had dried to touch, I impressed truck wheel marks in several places and glued down bigger rocks. Fine sand was added next, and static grass placed in high spots. Once that dried, I glued high grass made by Faller. Extra vegetation, an oil drum cart, empty fuel

drum, ammo box, and a palm trunk were also added to the scene, 15. The palm trunks came from resin copies of a master I made years ago. I finished the palm tree by photo-etching my own fronds, 16. To add a sense of scale, I heavily modified an old Hasegawa Isuzu truck driver to a mechanic on his lunch break. Finishing off the Tony, I glued the last few delicate parts in place and installed an antenna wire. FSM

Easy camo for a

Bradley

A first-timer follows simple steps to add color to an IFV BY CHARLES LIPKIN

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ver the years, I’ve built a great many model planes, ships, and cars, but never an armored fighting vehicle. After my grandson joined the U.S. Army and was assigned to a mechanized division in M2 Bradley Infantry Fighting Vehicles, I knew it was time to build my first. For my birthday, my wife gave me Tamiya’s 1/35 scale Bradley (No. 35132), which came together easily and let me focus on painting.

Creating the pattern The Tamiya kit depicts a Bradley in NATO service in 1985. So, I scoured the internet for a camouflage pattern. After downloading and printing the files, I scaled the drawings to the size of the model using a scanner and computer software and printed those out. I blackened the back side of the drawings using a No. 2 pencil so I could trace the camouflage patterns onto heavyweight printer paper, 1. I then cut out

the masks. Because I wanted soft demarcation lines, I folded short pieces of drafting tape and stuck them on the back, toward the center, 2. Not placing the tape directly on the edges allows just enough paint to waft under the masks for soft borders between colors. While I waited to attach the skirts until painting was complete, I temporarily placed them on the hull with tape to facilitate

applying the camouflage. I sprayed the model with Alclad II gray primer and microfiller (ALC 302), then airbrushed the NATO green mix all over (see sidebar). When that was dry, I attached the soft masks over the areas that were to remain green, 3, and sprayed the NATO brown mix. Then I masked those areas off in a similar manner and sprayed the final color, my lightened NATO black, 4.

Adding age When everything was dry, I removed the masks, revealing the complete camouflage pattern, 5. Even though I toned them down, the colors still looked too bright. I didn’t want to depict a new Bradley, but one that www.FineScale.com

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1 A camouflage pattern found on the internet was downloaded and scaled to the model. I blackened the back sides with a No. 2 pencil so I could trace the drawings onto heavy paper and make airbrushing masks.

4 A coat of NATO brown followed the green. Then, more masks were attached and the final color, NATO black, was airbrushed.

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2 Drafting tape held the masks slightly above the surface of the model so that a little paint spray would creep under, softening the edges of colors.

5 With the masks removed, the complete pattern looked too bright and factory-fresh.

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3 I stuffed the turret with paper towels to prevent paint from getting onto the finished interior, then primed the exterior and airbrushed the first color, NATO green. When it had dried, I attached the soft masks.

6 I aged the finish by toning the colors down using an airbrushed coat of flat clear with a little sand paint mixed in.

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A couple of airbrushed coats of PFM both before and after applying decals provided a nice, smooth surface and protection from the weathering steps to come.

Dot filters produced the worn, weathered finish I was aiming for. The yellowish spots are bits of masking tape I placed over partattachment points.

I washed the model and running gear with raw umber artist’s acrylic paint darkened with Mars black, going heavy on the panel lines and around raised details to emphasize them.

had been in service for a while. To age the finish, I sprayed the model with a thin layer of Testors Model Master flat clear acrylic (4636) mixed with sand (4720) at a 9:1 ratio, 6. I went heavier on the lower hull, behind the wheels, and on the suspension. Next, light coats of Pledge FloorCare MultiSurface Finish (PFM) were applied. The smooth, high-gloss finish protects the paint and creates a good surface for applying decals, 7. Weathering with dot filters came next. Using a small flat-tip brush, I applied little dots of Model Master camouflage gray enamel (1733) randomly over the surface. Then, with the brush dipped in mineral spirits, I drew the paint dots down across the

surface, leaving faint streaks of gray. I did the same thing using dots of radome tan (1709) and green (2029), giving a worn appearance to the vehicle’s finish, 8. The turret was primed, painted, weathered, and finished with the same method. I brush-painted straight NATO black on the tires used for the road wheels and guide wheels. Thinned flat clear mixed with sand was sprayed on these. The surface, running gear, and suspension received Liquitex raw umber acrylic (331) darkened with a little Mars black (276). I went extra heavy on the recessed panel lines and around raised details to contrast them, 9. A final coat of flat clear finished the hull, turret, and running gear.

The kit came with a nice set of vinyl tracks molded in a steel color. After cleaning and coating them with PFM, I applied a wash of Testors flat black acrylic (4768), thinned at a 1:3 ratio, to the treads. A wash of equal parts of Tamiya flat yellow (XF-3) and hull red (XF-9) thinned 85% gave them a rusted appearance, 10, and an airbrushed coat of flat clear finished them off. I installed the tracks on the running gear and attached the ends with vinyl cement made for swimming pool repairs. These connections were reinforced with dark gray sewing thread. The join was positioned where it wouldn’t be visible: in the middle of the top of the track run, up under the fender skirts.

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The vinyl tracks were molded in a steel color. I applied a wash of flat black to emphasize the details, then washed them again with a rusty mixture of flat yellow and hull red acrylic paint to make them look well used.

Metallic gray replicated the appearance of the steel tools and spare tracks. The “wood” handles were painted tan, then washed with a mix of raw umber and ivory black artist’s oils to replicate grain.

The turret was painted and weathered the same way as the hull. I did not glue it down, so it can rotate.

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I drilled a small hole in one boot of the commander and glued a toothpick into it to use as a handle for painting.

I painted the figure with acrylics, then coated it with PFM before applying a dark wash in recesses and highlighting raised areas.

The radio antennas were made from segments of steel piano wire painted with lightened NATO black.

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I left the driver’s hatch open for a view of the interior.

The rear crew compartment door is open as well to show the detail.

Finishing touches After installing the tracks, I glued on the fender skirts. Tools were painted with a variety of metallic colors. To make the handles look like unpainted wood, I applied a base coat of Testors tan acrylic (4697), then a wash of raw umber artist’s oils darkened with a little ivory black, which brought out the grain pattern. The tools were coated with flat clear before being glued on the hull, 11. I installed the finished turret, leaving it free to rotate, 12. To easily paint the included tank commender, I drilled a .043-inch hole into the bottom of one of his boots, then glued a rounded toothpick there as a handle, 13. I

This project whetted my appetite for armor models — I’m already working on my next.

Paint colors used Tamiya acrylics were used throughout (unless otherwise noted). For the camo, I applied NATO black (XF-69) lightened with 15% flat white (XF-2), and NATO green (XF-67) and NATO brown (XF-68) softened with 15% buff (XF-57). For the interior, I painted with sky (XF-21). All paints were thinned at a 3:1 paint-tothinner ratio and airbrushed with a medium tip at 22 psi.

painted the figure with Tamiya and Testors acrylics, then coated it with PFM, 14. To give depth to the shadows, I gave him a wash of raw umber artist’s oils, then drybrushed the high spots with lightened versions of the base colors. I finished with flat clear. The kit instructions suggest making

radio antennas by stretching sprue; I’ve never had much luck with that, so I made them from .01-inch piano wire, cut to 7cm lengths. After painting the wires NATO black mixed with 15% flat white, I glued them in place, 15. I left the interior visible by posing the top and rear hatches open, 16, 17. FSM www.FineScale.com

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READER GALLERY ▶ HUSSEIN EL KAISSY

CAIRO, EGYPT From the vanguard of technology comes this 1/6 scale ordnance-removal robot, printed in 3-D by Hussein from a design by Nemanja Petkov. Intrigued by the concept, Hussein contacted the designer. ”He was nice enough to break down the design into parts that would fit my 3-D printer,” Hussein says. He printed each piece separately for optimum orientation; the process took about 8 hours for 30 parts. Though it may seem more direct than conventional scratchbuilding, much time was spent filling and sanding to erase the lines left by the printing process.

◀ BERNARD SZUKIEL,

OSTROŁĘKA, WOJEWÓDZTWO MAZOWIECKIE, POLAND Bernard scratchbuilt Jabba the Hutt’s sail barge as a 1/22 scale paper model. It’s about 54 inches long.

▶ BRUNO CAPELLER,

BENTO CONÇALVES, RIO GRANDE DO SUL, BRAZIL Bruno painted his Tamiya 1/35 scale PzKpfw V Panther Ausf G in a rarely seen winter camouflage worn by a tank in the 1944 Ardennes campaign (Battle of the Bulge).

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▲ DAVID SAMPSON

BEAR VALLEY SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA The Martin B-26 Marauder Flak-Bait flew 207 missions, more than any other American aircraft in World War II. True to its name, the airframe being preserved by the Smithsonian National Air & Space Museum still bears scores of combat scars. David marked Monogram’s 1/48 scale kit with AeroMaster decals. ◀ CSABA MAGYAR,

VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA Produced by Chelyabinsk Tractor Factory from 1937 to 1941, the ChTZ Stalinets S-65 tractor had the power and heft to handle such heavy artillery as the Soviets’ 152mm ML-20 and 203mm B-4 howitzer. Csaba achieved a convincing level of textured weathering for Trumpeter’s 1/35 scale tractor by highlighting with a lighter shade of the green base coat and immediately applying rustcolored powdered chalk.

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READER GALLERY ◀ GEORGE MIZOBE

JOHNSON, KENT, WASHINGTON While it was in business, Monarch Models produced models and packaging that evoked the glory years of Aurora figures in the 1960s — like this 1/8 scale Sinbad. ▶ LOTHAR

LIMPRECHT, BAD WILDUNGEN, GERMANY Lothar’s ”what if” build is a 1/35 scale PzKpfw V Panther with 8.8cm antiaircraft FlaK 41 and a Rheintochter IIa missile. Not naming a kit, Lothar says, ”The basis may be any available Panther.” The carriage and missile were resin-cast by Customscale.

▲ TED BUNN

CRANSTON, RHODE ISLAND After scoping out Wingnut Wings’ 1/32 scale LVG C.VI reconnaissance plane, Ted replaced the kit’s radiator with HGW Models photo-etch, along with a few other accessories from the same detail set. He painted a faux-wood finish with Tamiya buff and dark yellow and an over-coat of burnt sienna artist’s oils. 54 FineScale Modeler November 2017

◀ DAVID HAMILTON,

LIVINGSTON, WEST LOTHIAN, SCOTLAND David built Revell’s 1/32 scale Colonial Viper Mk.II, then kept going. Also featured: a Verlinden U.S. Navy power cart; Reedoak 3-D-printed U.S. Navy deck crew; and a scratchbuilt ladder, all on a converted cake stand. The scene David imagined takes place on the deck of Battlestar Galactica. He says, “Given the Galactica is really just an aircraft carrier, it wasn’t too much of a leap to use examples of aircraft support crew and vehicles.” When co-workers said they were going to make something over Christmas, he joined in. He says, “None of my colleagues actually made anything, so I think I won in the end.”

▲ VICTOR SANTOS

EDISON, NEW JERSEY Victor dressed up Revell’s 1/72 scale Type VIIC U-boat with a Nautilus wood deck, Eduard photo-etch, Warriors figures, and Testors Model Master paints. “It was a blast to build!” he says. ◀ STEVE WRIGHT,

SHEFFIELD, SOUTH YORKSHIRE, ENGLAND Going the extra mile for a better bike, Steve stripped the chrome from Tamiya’s 1/6 scale HarleyDavidson FXE Super Glide and painted it with Alclad II chrome and AK Interactive colors.

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MOTORIZE

your model

Academy’s 1/48 scale Polikarpov I-16 Model 10 was going to be a quick build — but with the sudden availability of a DC motor, the vacant interior beckoned for more.

A spinning prop adds pep to a Polikarpov fighter BY ALFONSO PEREIRA

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very now and then you need to spice up your model building. Looking for something different from my usual sci-fi and armor models, I rummaged through my stash and found Academy’s 1/48 scale Polikarpov I-16 Type 10. In many ways the I-16 was ahead of its time, being one of the first fighter planes to sport retractable landing gear and a variable-pitch propeller. It saw extensive frontline service during the Spanish Civil War and the Second Sino-Japanese War, and it was still the Soviet Union’s most important fighter at the beginning of the German invasion in World War II. Initially, I thought I would do a quick out-of-the-box build just to “clean my palate.” But when my son’s R/C helicopter suffered one too many crashes, it provided a good source of small DC motors I decided to put to good use.

Mounting the motor The Academy model’s simplicity lends itself 56 FineScale Modeler November 2017

well to modifications; its basic cockpit is mainly a bucket seat, instrument panel, control stick, a firewall, and no pilot. To display the plane in flight, I procured a white-metal WWII pilot figure that would not look out of place in the Spanish Civil War, 1. Early in the process, I wanted to figure out just how to install the motor to power the propeller. I measured the distance between the tip of the molded-in pin that inserts into the propeller hub and the back of the firewall; this would be the length to which the motor’s shaft would have to be extended to reach the propeller, 2. Then I simply cut off the pin, 3. Using a pin vise, I drilled matching holes in the firewall and cylinder ring to allow the extended shaft to pass through, 4. Similarly, I drilled the back of the propeller hub and used telescopic tubing to connect the motor shaft and the hub, 5. Fortunately, I had a piece of plastic tube with an internal diameter that fit the motor’s body. I glued this tube to the back of the engine firewall and slipped the little

motor in, 6, bracing it with thin plastic card, 7.

Modifying the landing gear I wanted to display the airplane with the landing gear retracted. The I-16 had two-piece circular doors that closed the wheel well. When the gear was extended, the bottom part of the door folded back 90 degrees. Unfortunately, Academy only provides parts that depict the fully extended gear. So, surgery was indicated. First, I tried to cut the plastic door along the seam to flatten it and allow it to cover the wheel well. However, that proved to be easier said than done; I ended up mangling the part pretty badly, 8. So, I decided to use styrene card to build the landing gear doors myself, 9. I installed my scratchbuilt doors and remaining landing gear covers on the assembled wings, using Squadron green putty to fill gaps, 10. After sanding and cleanup, I used gray primer to check for rough spots requiring further attention, 11.

1 It’s a spartan front office; white-metal pilot figure not included.

2 Digital calipers measure the distance by which the motor’s shaft must be extended to reach the propeller.

4 A micro bit in a pin vise clears a path through the firewall (back) and the cylinder ring for the extended prop shaft.

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Green putty smooths gaps left by less-than-ideal fit.

Styrene tubing mounted on the firewall holds the motor.

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The kit-supplied landing gear door is on the left; the regrettable modification attempt is on the right.

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I cut off the molded prop shaft on the kit’s cylinder ring to make room for the extended shaft.

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The motor, extended prop shaft, and prop with brass-tube hub are ready for testing.

7 A strip of styrene card formed into a bracket holds the motor securely.

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Rough-cut landing gear doors; they still need some cleanup with sandpaper.

11 A coat of primer shows rough areas that need more sanding and cleanup. www.FineScale.com

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12 I used a miter box to make a clean, angled cut.

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Tape marked with the shape of the opening serves as a guide …

… for drilling small holes around the circumference of the opening …

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… making it easier to cut out the plastic with a knife.

Two-part epoxy putty seals and strengthens the brass-tube insert to support the weight of the model.

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Here’s the wiring attached and routed. Sadly, the pilot had to lose his legs to fit — but this won’t be visible from the outside.

Far right, an unmodified wing-mounted cannon; replacing the barrels with syringe tubing made a big difference.

Wiring Now, how to power the DC motor: I wanted to use a battery, but I wanted it outside of the fuselage for easy access. Wires would be coming out of the model; I wanted to use brass tubing to route them to the battery pack. I started by cutting a small bit of tubing to make an attachment point on the fuselage, angling it to produce a striking pose, 12. I transferred the shape to a swatch of tape I stuck inside the model as a drilling 58 FineScale Modeler November 2017

guide, 13, and used a small drill bit to make a series of holes along the cutting line, 14. Then I cut out the hole with a hobby knife, 15. The brass tube was held in place with two-part epoxy, 16. I installed the firewall/motor and fished the wires through the brass tube to the outside, 17. At this point I also installed the painted pilot figure; it had to become a double-amputee to fit in the cockpit, but once the fuselage was closed his unfortunate condition was unnoticeable.

More mods, paint, and decals I just wasn’t satisfied with the look of the molded stubs representing 20mm cannons on the wings and cowl, so I drilled them out and replaced them with 20-gauge syringe tubes, 18. Using Tamiya acrylics, I painted the cylinder ring aluminum and gave it a dark wash to highlight detail, 19. The propeller was painted black with yellow tips; I took some artistic license by adding a black spiral to the white hub cover, 20.

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Not much effort was exerted painting the cylinder ring; most of it is concealed within the engine cowl.

An adhesive vinyl mask helped me paint the black spiral on the hub cover.

Paint and markings will depict an I-16 fighting in the Spanish Civil War. Here, you can see the pre-shading on panel lines and edges.

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The decals were rather thick and required multiple applications of Micro Sol decal solution to conform.

Bare-Metal Foil around the cowling was less hassle than painting and looked more realistic.

My display base: Keeping plastic lids out of the landfills, one model at a time.

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Brass tube can only be bent so far before it kinks; several small bends along the length are better than a single big one. A bending spring helps.

Textured spray-can paint finished the plastic base.

I added a small 100-ohm resistor in series with the battery to slow the propeller and protect the motor from overcurrent.

After a coat of gray primer, I sprayed thinned black paint to pre-shade panel lines, 21. Wingtips, fuselage band, and the top third of the rudder were airbrushed red and masked; the middle of the rudder was sprayed yellow and masked; and the bottom third was sprayed purple and masked as well. Then I airbrushed the top of the fuselage olive drab, and the bottom light blue. I sprayed the model with Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish and added

the call sign and Popeye decals, 22. BareMetal Foil represented the metallic ring around the engine cowl, 23.

the conduit tubing, 25. Textured paint from a spray can gave the plastic base a stonelike finish, 26. Using a piece of pre-drilled bread-board card, I made the connections between the battery holder, motor leads, and push-button terminals, 27. Two-part epoxy putty strengthened the brass-tube insertion point. Then I installed the battery, pressed the pushbutton, and watched my I-16 fighter come to life! FSM

Base and installing the battery With the model nearly complete, I turned my attention to the display base. A lid from a peanut butter jar was drilled to accept an on/off button along with a brass tube to accept the tube carrying the wires from the motor, 24. I used a bending spring to curve

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QUESTIONS & ANSWERS By Mark Hembree

Keep it simple with Kiss Q In the May 2017 FSM, Frank Cuden’s “Don’t worry, it’s only resin” mentions using Kiss acrylic liquid and powder to fill holes in the resin. Could I get some more detail on the technique? Do you have to sand quickly after application, as with super glue, or can it wait?

A Instructions for mixing and application come with the product. It is like super glue — sand it sooner rather than later (let it harden about 3-5 minutes). Use acetone (nail-polish remover) for cleanup. For a full set of directions, look it up at www.walgreens.com — or go to Walgreens, buy some, and give it a try!

Revell and Revell Germany Q Can you explain the difference between Revell and Revell Germany? I assume they are two different companies. Do they offer the same kits at the same time, or do they issue different kits? Is one considered better than the other? – Brett Lawler Gore, Va. A Revell was founded in the U.S. in the 1950s, eventually merged with Monogram, and is now owned by Hobbico. Here’s a company history: www.revell.com/news/about-us.html Revell Germany was founded as a GOT A MODELING PROBLEM? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. E-mail [email protected], or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. Mail volume and space limitations prevent us from printing every question. Please include your name, town, state, and a daytime phone number.

U.S. Air Force

– Patrick Murphy Leavenworth, Wash.

In tighter on the Beaufighter

Q

I want to build a Beaufighter and I have noticed that some modelers have painted the engine cowling copper and others black. Which is correct? – Gary Hulshof Calgary, Alberta, Canada

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The front ring on the cowl should be a copper or bronze color. It may look darker (even black) in black-and-white wartime photos, but it is not a painted surface. That’s because it was not simply a cowling but an exhaust collector ring; the color results from heat distortion. Exhaust was vented to a pipe off the side, which you will see is the same color. This arrangement also prevented icing on the cowl and acted as a flame suppressor, a plus for night fighters. And while we’re at it, the name is descended from the Bristol Beaufort, after the Duke of Beaufort, who hailed from Gloucestershire in England, near the Bristol Aeroplane Co.

European subsidiary that also produced kits independently. Now it, too, is owned by Hobbico: www.revell.de/en/company/history.html Both Revells produce collaborative as well as individual, unique projects. There may be toolings done by one that are also sold by the other, but also unique toolings and differences in packaging. One notable, across-the-board difference is that you will not find swastikas in any Revell Germany kit — they are illegal there.

Enamel and lacquer Q Can you spray paint enamel over lac-

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quer primer or vice versa? – Anthony Internicola Clinton, N.Y. A My expert opinion is, “Maybe.” But I would be looking at one of those magic 8-balls for the answer before trying it. It depends on the lacquer (and whether it is truly lacquer or acrylic lacquer) as well as the enamel and the plastic. That represents a lot of variables. In most cases, provided you give each coat at least 48 hours to dry, everything should be OK. But test it on some spare kit plastic before committing it to the model. FSM

READER TIPS By Elizabeth Nash

Too hard, too soft, just right The camouflage pattern on the Hawker Hunter is a defined pattern with a slight amount of overspray at the edges. To replicate this, I first enlarge the kit painting diagram to the full size of the model. I then trace the outlines onto a piece of (ancient) frisket film and adhere it over the base color. Although I tried to keep the edges loose to allow for overspray (or underspray here), the pressure from the airbrush burnished the film, resulting in a razor-sharp edge — not what I wanted. I then scored the back side of the film (cutting through the backing paper, but not the film itself ), so that when I removed the film’s backing paper, the paper remained in place for ¼ inch around the pattern’s edges. This was so the edges of the mask wouldn’t adhere to the model, letting a bit of spray under the film and creating the desired soft edge. Well, the theory was good, but ¼ inch was too much. There was a lot of underspray, making the edge too soft. I tried again, this time with ⅛ inch of backing paper around the pattern masks’ edges. The result was just right. This technique worked flawlessly around the whole model. The only difficulty was learning just how much pressure to apply on the knife so that the backing paper, but not the frisket film, would be cut. I’m happy with the result. (Note: The demarcation line was painted intentionally sharp, just as it was on the actual Hunter.)

Freshly painted wheels on an M1A2 Abrams: maybe not silkier, but more manageable.

Paint road wheels using hairspray I used to spend a lot of time painting road wheels for armored vehicles that had separate tires, as found on most Allied and early World War II German armor. Now with my new system, once my primer coat is dry the entire process takes less than five minutes. You can use Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish, but hairspray from a can is so much easier and faster. Here are the steps: 1. Lay down a coat of black or NATO black primer. I use rattle-can black lacquer primer. 2. Give the wheels a good coat of hairspray from an aerosol can. 3. Once the hairspray has dried, airbrush the wheels using an acrylic paint. I use Vallejo Model Air paints. You don’t have to worry much about overspray. 4. Wet a cotton swab with water and rub off the overspray. Done and done! – Eric Christianson Redmond, Wash.

– Greg Kolasa Wantage, N.J.

HAVE A TIP OR TECHNIQUE TO SHARE? Send a brief description along with a photo to [email protected] or visit FineScale. com and click on “Contact Us.” Tips are paid for upon publication; if you live in the U.S., we’ll need your Social Security number to pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the text and images upon payment.

Add accurate rivets Want to add rivets with ease? First, print out aircraft blueprints from the internet. Then use photo-editing software to scale the drawings to the size of your model. Cut the drawings out and stick them on the

model with masking tape. Run a rivet tool on the paper with enough pressure to push through the paper. This works great for small-scale jobs! – Oliver Kuy Quezon City, Philippines www.FineScale.com

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WORKBENCH REVIEWS FSM experts build and evaluate new kits

Fully equipped Enterprise fun to build

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SS Enterprise (CV-6) received 20 battle stars during World War II, more than any other American warship. It participated in every major action against the Japanese, from sinking a Japanese submarine three days after Pearl Harbor was attacked to supporting the invasion of Okinawa in spring 1945. Reported sunk by the Japanese three times, the Yorktown-class carrier earned the nickname “The Gray Ghost.” Based on anti-aircraft armament and the air wing, Academy’s new 1/700 scale represents Enterprise in mid-1942. Most of the parts are molded in gray plastic, with red used for the lower hull and black for the base. No flash mars the parts, and the only blemishes are minor mold

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seams and a few shallow sink marks that are mostly hidden on the finished model. The hull features recessed portholes, molded hatches, and the prominent degaussing cables, and it accurately captures the unique pear shape of the lower hull. The ship can be built full hull or waterline. A single photo-etched (PE) fret provides railings, ladders, and an excellent CXAM-1 radar dish for the mast. Separate instructions guide the addition of the PE parts, so you will need to pay attention. A nice addition is the masks for all decks and catwalks, complete with a large placement diagram. Decals provide flight-deck markings and three sizes of insignia for the aircraft. Assembly of the hull progressed quickly. In Step 8, the aft 5-inch gun galleries

required 1.5mm gaps be cut into the splinter shields for PE ladders. Although the kit is not snap-fit, many of the parts had tight locators that hindered fit. For example, in Step 10 the forward 5-inch galleries did not seat properly. Here and in several other places, I shaved the pins for more precise fits. In steps 12-17, I fitted PE railings to the main deck sections (parts B5-8 and F21) before attaching them to the flight deck; there’s not much room under the overhang to maneuver once the parts are joined. The kit provides about three-fourths of the hangar deck with the midships and aft elevators molded on, but only the forward and aft elevator are separate. You could leave the aft one off to display the hangar,

but the forward elevator must be attached at flight-deck level because it opens to a void. I shaved its front attachment for a better fit with the flight deck. For the most part, the kit’s anti-aircraft guns look good for the scale. The eight onepiece 5-inch/38 Mk.21 Mod. 16 guns include breeches and fuse-setting equipment. The four 1.1-inch Mk.2s also scale out well and look the part. But the 20mm guns are a bit bland and would benefit from a little extra work. I spent a little more than eight hours building the island, much of it bending and attaching PE railings. The highlight was the PE replacement for the kit’s solid plastic CXAM-1 radar (Part E15). Pay attention, though, as you need the support from the plastic radar to mount the PE dish. The island’s PE instructions include the kit’s only part misidentification. The long portside catwalk railing should be PE47, not PE57 as shown. I painted vertical surfaces with 5-0 ocean gray as indicated in the instructions,

but the color should be 5-S sea blue. (The lighter gray helps show details.) The carrier was repainted with 5-N navy blue during its 1943 refit. For the flight deck, I applied 20-B deck blue; the other decks received No. 20 deck gray. The deck’s stripe and elevator outline decals went on without silvering over a coat of clear gloss with a touch of Microscale Micro Sol. The decals release quickly, so don’t leave them in the water. The 24 aircraft — eight each of F4F-4 Wildcats, SBD-2/-3 Dauntlesses, and TBD-1 Devastators — are correct for May-August 1942. The single-piece moldings include propellers and wedge landing gear. The Wildcats have fine lines at the wing folds, and the SBDs have indents at the nose for the .30-caliber machine guns. The national insignia decals laid down nicely. For more detail, you could cut and fold the wings of the F4F-4 and TBD-1, shape the robust landing gear, add torpedoes or bombs, and sand the props to scale.

Academy’s Enterprise scales out nearly perfectly, and the kit was a lot of fun to build. It would be an attractive build for an experienced modeler and has a lot of the extras in the box. However, ease of construction, paired with good instructions, makes it a good introduction to PE for those with less experience. – Mark Karolus

Kit: No. 14224 Scale: 1/700 Mfg.: Academy, www.academy.co.kr Price: $49 Comments: Injectionmolded, 231 parts (76 PE), decals Pros: Large number of detailed aircraft included; clean fits and moldings; perfect PE Cons: No way to see hangar detail; elevators sit just below deck

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WORKBENCH REVIEWS

Airfix Handley Page Victor B.Mk.2

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he Handley Page Victor was the last of the Royal Air Force V-bombers to enter service. Developed as a nuclear deterrent, most were converted to tankers before retirement in 1993. This is the first injection-molded kit in 1/72 scale of the bomber version equipped to carry the Blue Steel nuclear missile — the only other in this scale is the old Matchbox K2 refueler. Airfix’s kit is molded in a light gray plastic that seems a bit harder than the bluegray stuff used in most of its recent releases. Molding includes crisp recessed panel lines and virtually no flash. Surface detail is nice, although I was expecting a little bit more. Breakdown of the parts suggests that a K2 version could be coming. Markings are provided for two aircraft: one overall antiflash white, the other in

Kit: No. A12008 Scale: 1/72 Mfg.: Airfix, www.airfix.com Price: $74.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 228 parts Pros: Detailed instructions: great engineering on intakes Cons: Raised edge between wing and fuselage

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green and gray camouflage over white. Beautiful Cartograf decals include a good selection of stencil data. The 23-page instructions are broken into 129 assembly steps, each clearly showing the previous step, colored to track progress. Two addenda are included to cover the application of decals and paint schemes. There isn’t much information for painting details, so you’ll need reference photos. Assembly started with the cockpit and crew cabin. Pilot and copilot seats required filling and sanding; fit of the halves wasn’t spectacular. One of the armrests had broken loose from the tree but, luckily, it was still in the box. Interior detail is decent, and the area looks quite busy with a little painting. Decals detail the main instrument panel and center console. I wish the kit supplied decals for some of the other panels but, truthfully, they’re difficult to see. Next up was the nose gear and bay and

main gear. Separate side walls and ceiling make up the nose wheel bay and feature molded structure and hydraulic lines. Washes and dry-brushing made all the details pop. The stout front gear strut supports the weight of the model with its recommended 25 gram (9 oz.) weight; the strength protects it from handling accidents through much of the build. Each of the main gear assemblies comprises 15 parts. I removed the top “T” from parts H34 and H35 so I could add them after joining the main halves and cleaning up the resulting seams. Study the instructions before starting the main wing, as it includes the first assembly options. For marking option B, the camouflaged Victor, some holes need to be drilled open. You also have to decide whether to build the flaps up or down. If building the flaps up, steps 28 and 29 indicate removing a tab from the back side of the top wing half; I think that’s a mistake. Paint the intake parts before assembly, then touch them up as necessary. I built the entire unit first and had a devil of a time painting the separation line between the white and camouflage. Airfix engineering here is first-rate; the wings include internal supports that make the completed piece sturdy. Overall fit of the parts is good, but I had to do some filling and sanding around the intakes. I normally don’t display my models with speed brakes open, but the detail in this area was so nice I couldn’t see not using it.

Zvezda PzKpfw IV Ausf H

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The kit’s other options include a posable crew door, and lowered or raised scoops on the upper fuselage and under the wings. Not mentioned in the instructions, the kit also features three options for the bomb bay. There are parts for an open bay (complete with door mechanism), a closed bay, and the Blue Steel missile. If building the Blue Steel version, you’ll need to extend the cover (Part K3) as it is about 1/16 of an inch too short. Mating the wing to the fuselage was the only part of the entire assembly that gave me trouble — it’s a tight fit at the front and leaves a slightly raised edge. Sanding and a touch of filler blended everything. I used Tamiya fine white surface primer for the underside, and Testors Model Master enamel RAF medium sea gray and RAF dark green on the upper surfaces. The decals went on flawlessly and responded to setting solutions. Airfix continues to impress with good detail, great fit and engineering, and excellent value. I spent more time on this build than most, partly because of the size and partly because I repainted the intakes; I wasn’t happy with my first attempt (my problem, not the kit’s). Hopefully, Airfix will see fit to complete the V-bomber lineup and give us a new-tool Vulcan! Mike Klessig

vezda has produced another winner with its all-new Panzer IV. Features include some interior detail for the turret, posable hatches, link-and-length tracks, and three styles of muzzle brake. Beautifully molded Zimmerit graces the thin-edged Schürzen (skirts), but it is oddly absent from the hull and turret. (The box art shows it on both places.) It’s not unfixable — you can either add it to the hull with putty and a tool or sand it off the skirts — but it’s a flaw in an otherwise excellent kit that can be built quickly and easily. The lower hull joined the rear panel before the suspension and road wheels. When working with link-and-length tracks, I prefer to build upper and lower runs, paint them off the model, and add them near the end of the build. They fit perfectly. A lot of parts detail the upper hull, and the instructions make the process straightforward; shading indicates the parts being added and minimizes location questions. No interior is provided for the hull, but all of the hatches are posable. On the other hand, the turret interior featured a basket, seats, and a full gun breech. Separate side hatches fit perfectly closed or open, and there is detail molded on the inside faces.

Kit: No. 3620 Scale: 1/35 Mfg.: Zvezda, www.zvezda.org.ru Price: $55.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 545 parts, decals Pros: Quick build; great fits; optional muzzle brakes Cons: Inconsistency of Zimmerit between hull (absent) and Schürzen (present)

I finished my kit as a winter-camouflaged tank in Ukraine, 1943 using Ammo of Mig Jimenez washable white over Badger tan Stynylrez primer, with hairspray in between as a release to distress the finish. I spent 25 enjoyable hours on Zvezda’s Panzer IV. Good part fits and clear instructions sped the build. I happily recommend the kit to anyone with a couple of builds under their belt. It has plenty to offer experienced modelers looking to take it to the next level. – Chris Cortez

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Roden L-19/O-1 Bird Dog

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fter World War II, addressing a need for an updated observation and communication aircraft, Cessna developed the L-19/O-1 Bird Dog. The aircraft saw extensive service with the U.S. Army, Air Force, and Marines in Korea and Vietnam. The kit includes: a nice little engine with the option of open or closed access panels; rockets with underwing launchers; posable boarding door, and window; and separate landing flaps. Two marking options are provided: an Army trainer from Fort Rucker, Ala., in olive drab and international orange, or an Air Force bird at Da Nang, 1966. Roden advises natural metal for the latter, but the

Kit: No. 619 Scale: 1/32 Mfg.: Roden, www.roden.eu Price: $64.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 155 parts (3 antenna wires), decals Pros: First in this scale; nice engine with choice of open or closed panels; posable boarding door, window, and flaps Cons: Mold mismatch and flash; poor fit of clear parts; sloppy locators

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aircraft I’ve seen were all aircraft (or ADC) gray. A reliable source who was in Vietnam agrees, although he says the normally glossy paint appeared pretty flat on the Bird Dogs. The kit plastic was pebbly, and there was pesky flash and mold drift on most parts. The clear parts fit poorly and needed a lot of work. Male-female locators were sloppy, especially the landing-gear to fuselage. Steps 1, 2, 3, and 5 deal with the engine assembly. In Step 2, the motor mounts (parts E15-18) fit poorly. For a better fit, glue the mounts from Step 2 and the framework from Step 9 at the same time; dry-fit them before all the glue sets, dry-fit these assemblies together, then let the glue dry. After that, you can pull things apart and paint as usual. Beware of the landing gear: The struts (parts 5F and 1F) are flimsy. I broke one just by nicking it with a fingernail (seriously). “Sparse” describes the cockpit. The instrument panel has relief molded details in but no faces. I just dabbed some white dots on the faces to make it look a little better. All the clear parts needed sanding and filing on both the clear and the fuselage parts, but they still didn’t fit quite right. The rockets and launchers were OK, but I questioned the recommendation to paint the tubes yellow. I used olive drab instead. Before joining the fuselage halves and wings, be sure to drill all the appropriate holes for antennas. In Step 19, the rear canopy bracing, the

location points are wrong. The ends of the bracing should be glued at the very rear of the cockpit where the rear glass joins the fuselage, not as shown in the instructions. Steps 22 and 23 install the landing flaps. Hinges (parts 19D) are given to pose them up or extended, but the O-1 had Fowler flaps, so the hinges require modification to be correct. In Step 24, the wing-to-fuselage assembly, make sure you have a tight join between the fuselage and wing contact points. The wing struts needed fitting as they were a little long. Once everything was assembled, I went back and filled gaps around ill-fitting parts with Kristal Klear smoothed with a cotton swab. Those areas included landing gear struts to fuselage, wing strut connections, and around most of the clear parts. One suggestion on the gear struts: For extra strength, you could try taking a triangular file or scriber and making a channel on the underside of the strut. Then install a segment of stiff wire and paint as usual. It’s on the underside, so it won’t be noticeable. If you leave them as is, the struts will not survive. The decals and antennas all went on OK. This was not an easy kit, and it needed a lot of fitting, sanding, filing, and filling. It looks all right when it’s done, but it takes some experience to get it there. I spent 27 hours on mine; considering the number of parts, it should have taken half that. – Larry Schramm

Valom B-45A Tornado

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ever heard of the B-45 Tornado? You’re probably not alone. North American Aviation’s B-45 was the first U.S. Air Force jet bomber, entering service in 1948. Only 139 of them were built. They saw limited service, but a few reconnaissance RB-45Cs saw action in the Korean War. Valom’s kit is a vast improvement over previous limited-run and vacuum-formed versions, but it is not state of the art either. The plastic parts have good recessed panel lines. Engine nacelles are molded to the upper and lower wing halves. The clear parts are nicely done but have raised framing to represent what is really interior bracing. Photo-etched (PE) details include slightly oversized control wheels, rudder pedals, oleo scissors, seat harnesses, and fins for the wingtip tanks. The decal sheet provides colorful markings for two B-45As. The kit looks good in the box, but every plastic part needed cleanup along the mating surfaces. Even after cleanup, the fit was poor, a problem compounded by the assembly illustrations. The rough drawings don’t adequately illustrate the shape and positioning of most cockpit parts. With the lack of positive locating devices on the parts, I had to guess the locations of the pilot and copilot consoles and how they would fit to the floor and the fuselage side. Be prepared for a lot of trial and error. I like the combination PE and photofilm instrument panels, but you won’t see them once the model is finished. The PE rudder pedals are nice, but I couldn’t figure

out where they would attach. The worst part of assembly was wings. I liked the resin engine intake cones and exhaust pipes, but they must be super glued to the front and rear nacelle fairings. These fairings do not fit well to the main nacelles, so there was a lot of filling and sanding to smooth things over. Then the wings fit poorly to the fuselage. I had to open the seams between the upper and lower wing halves at the root to get the wings to fit over the shallow tabs on the fuselage fairings. After gap-filling super glue and plenty of sanding, the wings’ fit was OK. The kit includes several parts for other versions, but the instructions do not explain this. Wingtip fuel tanks are included, but few reference photos show B-45s with them. There’s an alternate pair of main landing-gear wheel faces, along with optional faired-over nose glazing and tailturret compartment canopy. There is no tail turret or guns, just a solid fairing as seen in most photos. The last hurdle was fitting the landing gear. Each main strut has a pair of support struts mounted to it. The instructions show this, but do not show how these support struts fit into the wheel wells. The kit designers forgot to mold a small nose-gear door, but the instructions provide a drawing for making the door out of sheet styrene. I painted the model first with Tamiya gloss black spray can, then with several shades of Alclad II for the natural-metal finish. I masked around the canopy framing

Kit: No. 72120 Scale: 1/72 Mfg: Valom, www.valom.net Price: $72 Comments: Injectionmolded, 172 parts (8 resin, 59 PE), decals Pros: Good surface detail; proper outline; good interior compartments; resin intakes and exhausts; PE details; photofilm instruments; alternate wheels; alternate wing tanks Cons: Poor fit overall; rough mating surfaces; confusing and poorly illustrated assembly diagrams; unexplained extra parts; some oversize decals

with Bare-Metal Foil and painted the reinforcements white. The kit decals are well printed but tricky to handle — extremely thin and floppy, so use lots of water to keep them from stretching and tangling as you apply them. The national insignia on the wings are way too big, and the fuselage insignia have the wrong proportions. So, not a smooth project — but it looks fine after a lot of work. I spent 42 hours on it. Valom has announced two more versions coming: The virtually identical B-45C and the reconnaissance RB-45C. – Paul Boyer

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WORKBENCH REVIEWS

Eduard SE.5a

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ot as well known as the Sopwith Camel, the Royal Aircraft Factory SE.5a is still widely considered one of World War I’s best fighters. Eduard’s new kit captures the rugged, agricultural looks of the plane. This ProfiPack kit includes the Wolseley Viper engine. Other power plants are sure to follow as a number of parts marked “do not use” include other engine, cowling, and propeller options. Also in the well-stocked box is a set of photo-etch (PE) details and a mask set. Clear plastic provides two styles of windscreen, cable-inspection windows, and the instrument-panel skylight. Decals give markings for five aircraft, including two American. Assembling and finishing the interior

Kit: No. 82131 Scale: 1/48 Mfg.: Eduard, www.eduard.com Price: $39.95 Comments: Injectionmolded, 195 parts (72 PE), decals, masks Pros: Easy assembly; good markings selection Cons: No stripe decals or masks for red wheel trim

68 FineScale Modeler November 2017

takes up most of the build, thanks to numerous details. Use care removing them from the sprues; I liked the 3-D trim wheel, but I broke it trying to clip it from the sprue. A pre-colored PE instrument board lacks wood grain and depth. I preferred the molded panel with decals, but I appreciate that both options were included. I could assemble most of the interior parts prior to painting, thanks to accurate moldings and good fits. The interior clips into place on top of the lower wing center. Fit is outstanding, but make sure you have everything aligned to avoid issues later. I used the PE ammo-drum holders, which look better than the thick, plastic parts. Don’t install the floor-mounted rack on the wing center section until the cockpit is in place to avoid fit problems. I included Eduard’s Brassin SE.5a guns set (No. 648299) that provides finely detailed Lewis wing and Vickers cowl machine guns. Be careful with the Vickers mount — it is fragile. I opened the lightening holes in the Lewis mount using a pin. Closing the fuselage proved anticlimactic after all the interior work; I used a bit of putty to blend the aft join. The rest of the airframe assembles just as easily. I left the cowling loose so it could be removed to display the nice engine. I replaced the kit’s plastic radiator with a more detailed Brassin set (No. 648298), removing the square radiator cap from the upper cowl for fit — this wasn’t mentioned in the instructions.

Triangular projections on the radiator’s rear must also be removed. I left the engine and radiator off for painting. I prepared the model for painting by installing the control-cable inspection windows. The kit parts were too big, so I replaced them with .005-inch clear plastic. All the masks were installed, and the model painted with Tamiya acrylics: deck tan (XF-55) with desert yellow (XF-59) shading for the lower surfaces, and a mix of khaki (XF-49), olive drab (XF-62), and flat brown (XF-10) on the upper surfaces. Decals were applied with help from setting solution; the white was nicely opaque. It’s disappointing that Eduard did not include either masks or decals for the narrow red rings on the wheels for the color option I chose. I attached rigging to the upper wing using EZ Line, then installed the center section cabane struts using a business card template marked for proper spacing. Once the struts were dry, I installed the upper wing followed by the outer struts. The struts and landing gear fit well. A little trimming was needed for the rear gear leg mounts. Clear diagrams made rigging easy. Finally, I added the Lewis gun and propeller. I spent a little more than 34 hours on my SE.5, much of it painting wood grain and details; rigging took time as well. The finished model captures the utilitarian look of the real aircraft superbly. I can’t wait to see the next kit in Eduard’s growing WWI stable. – Chuck Davis

MiniArt T-54-1

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iniArt seems to be on a quest to produce every important version of the T-54. A few months ago it produced a kit of the first production version of the T-54-1 with a full interior. Now comes the same kit without all the interior parts. Still, the kit contains more than 1,000 parts, molded in light gray plastic. Almost 100 are photo-etch, and 200 are track links. The detail is exceptional and nearly flawless. Basic interior parts are included, sufficient to allow an open turret hatch with some visible detail inside. Color diagrams and decals provide four sets of markings: two in olive green, one with worn winter whitewash, and one with a tricolor summer camouflage. There are clear parts for the headlight and periscopes. Paint colors are given for Ammo of Mig Jimenez, Humbrol, Mr. Color, Testors, and Vallejo. A small decal sheet provides markings for the four subjects. The multipart hull includes working torsion bars. Pay close attention to part numbers in the first five steps; it’s easy to mix up the unique ones. Installing the suspensionarm covers (parts Kc2 and Kc3), add the covers first, then their clamps (parts Ho2). The instructions are to add all the details to each hull panel, then install it. I found it easier to add the panels to the hull, then add the details. I had a little trouble getting the rear hull panels (parts E34, E28, E5) to fit properly. By adding them all at once, I was able to adjust for fit. When cleaning up the engine-cover frame (E44), I broke one

of the cross bars; I replaced it with stretched sprue. In Step 22, it’s easy to miss the indication to drill the holes in the front plate. You only need to cut the slot on the plate if you are mounting the headlight on the pillar (Part D33). Installing the rear fuel drums and their tie-downs was the most challenging part of the hull. I left off the running gear until I had finished painting the rest. The fenders are nicely molded with good detail on the underside and only faint ejector-pin marks. Adding the stowed ice cleats (parts He1) was tricky. After struggling with adding them to the right fender, I put a couple of pieces of stretched sprue under the ones on the left fender to hold them level. I initially missed the fact that the rear fuel drum on the left fender was shorter that the other three. Also, watch the position of the left rear tank; it could interfere with the exhaust. I couldn’t get the injection-molded tow cables to look right, so I left them off. Instead of installing all details on the upper and lower turret halves before joining them, I added internal details to the turret, then glued the halves together. I worked the seam with a file, then used a motor tool with a round burr to restore the cast texture. Only then did I add exterior details. The barrel only required removing a fine mold seam. Sadly, the trunnions were too loose to hold it up; I had to glue my main gun in place. The decal, applied over a coat of Tamiya clear, responded well to Micro Sol.

Kit: No. 37014 Scale: 1/35 Mfg.: MiniArt, www.miniart-models.com Price: $63.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 1,017 parts (93 PE), decals Pros: High level of detail; clear parts for headlights and periscopes; full-color paint/marking directions; interior parts for turret Cons: Lack of locators for fender-mounted fuel tanks; easy-to-miss details in assembly diagrams

Once everything was painted, I added the running gear and tracks, then put the model in a squaring jig to ensure alignment. The tracks take only take a few swipes of a sanding stick to clean up. MiniArt supplies some links without guide teeth and indicates them as an option in the instructions, but without any indication of how often to use them. I used the indicated 90 links per side, exactly the number of toothed links supplied. The finished model perfectly matched published dimensions. I spent 47 hours building MiniArt’s T-54. If construction is your favorite part of modeling, you’ll enjoy this one. It’s for experienced builders, but the fit and detail are impressive. – John Plzak

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69

WORKBENCH REVIEWS

Hasegawa Kawanishi H8K2 “Emily”

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urphy’s Fourth Law of Modeling states that in order for a new kit to come out, I need to have previously suffered through an older issue of the same model. Procrastination sometimes works in mysterious ways, though — I never built Hasegawa’s 1972 release, but its all-new H8K2 “Emily” is a real winner. The crisp parts feature beautiful, mostlyrecessed detail, with raised detail on the hull bottom. Beaching gear is provided, and optional torpedoes or bombs plus posable guns are supplied. The separate hull strakes,

Kit: No. 01575 Scale: 1/72 Mfg.: Hasegawa, www.hasegawa.co.jp Price: $149.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 338 parts (4 vinyl), decals, masks Pros: Great engineering; generally excellent fit; good decals and masks Cons: Some interior locators vague

70 FineScale Modeler November 2017

bow section forward of the windshield, vertical fin, and other parts suggest variants of the H8K to come. A color poster — printed in Japanese with cutaway fuselage showing interior details — is included with this first issue. I felt that assembly strictly by the instructions might make painting difficult, so I deviated slightly from them, making subassemblies that I joined after painting. The basic-but-extensive interior fit great, though locating aids for a couple of interior details in the bow were a little vague. Most of the interior won’t be visible when the model’s completed, but what’s there is suitable. I added masking-tape seat belts. Two hefty spars (extensions of the interior bulkheads) provide a stout structure for the wings. On my sample the wings fit perfectly, but the bow section needed filling and sanding at the starboard joint line. Hasegawa has molded the nacelles separately, so there’s no nuisance seam at the wing and nacelle juncture. The Kasei engines with separate exhaust manifolds and stacks are excellent. There are lots of clear parts, and Hasegawa provides a sheet of masks with its own instruction page for identifying each; sidebars in the comprehensive kit instructions provide placement info. Cabin windows may be installed from the outside — a huge aid in painting the model — and

each has a sprue nub marker indicating its “forward” end for correct orientation. Color callouts reference GSI Creos paints. But the internet provided photos of Hasegawa’s cutaway display model at the Shizuoka Hobby Show, so I matched my own Tamiya acrylic mixes to what I saw there. I used wood-grain decal for the breakaway “wood” torpedo fins. Decals are provided for three H8K2s. They settled down nicely except for the wings’ yellow leading-edge ID panels, which needed solvent. The box art shows the wing-float bracing wires, and there were small dimples in the kit’s floats and lower wings, obviously meant for placement of those wires. I drilled them out and used ceramic wire to “rig” them. Nicely done crew figures with separate arms, heads, and torsos are given, but they’re molded to be located at in-flight battle stations. I modified three of them to pose them outside the model and show its comparative size. (They don’t look the best, so you know I’m not a figure modeler.) Great kit! Despite its size and number of parts, the fit and ease of assembly makes for a relatively easy build. But less-experienced modelers should be advised that it takes a goodly amount of patience, time, and careful handling of very small parts. I spent 50 hours building my Emily. – Walt Fink

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HAWAII • Kailua, Oahu

Wide selection of plastic model kits, paint, books, magazines and tools. Located on the beautiful windward side, a scenic 20 minute drive from Honolulu. Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-2

WELLER’S HOBBYCRAFT

767 Kailua Road

808-262-0211

MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston)

Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, figure kits, games, etc. Shipping available. Info: hobbybunker.com

HOBBY BUNKER, INC.

33 Exchange St.

781-321-8855

MASSACHUSETTS • Marlboro

Stop in ONCE! A customer for LIFE! We have 10,000+ models, tools, supplies, 23 paint lines, 50 model mags, 5,000+ books. Est. in 1973, open 7 days, Th & Fr ‘til 8. Visit us @ www.sparetimeshop.com

THE SPARE TIME SHOP

Rt 20E Main, Post Rd. Plaza

508-481-5786

MASSACHUSETTS • Norton

6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-fi. Reference books & supplies. Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to Rt. 123E, behind Dunkin’ Donuts. www.mymummy. com E: [email protected] HARRY’S HOBBIES & COLLECTABLES 250 E. Main St., Rt 123 508-285-8080

MICHIGAN • Owosso

Your source for plastic models, diecast and all supplies needed to finish your latest model. Open 7 Days - Call for Hours www.talbotstoyland.com 445 South “B” Street

CONNECTICUT • Manchester

Huge selection of model kits & accessories. Ships, Armor, Aircraft, Figures, Cars and more. Visit: www.freetimehobbies.com for complete listing. Monday to Friday 10-5, Saturday 10-4

BURBANK’S HOUSE OF HOBBIES

7259 Canoga Avenue

203-869-0969

GEORGIA • Blue Ridge

Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem Visit us in person or online www.houseofhobbies.com Secure online ordering

911 S. Victory Blvd.

ANN’S HOBBY CENTER

405 E. Putnam Avenue

Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train sets. Open Tues - Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5. www.HQHobbies.com

ANCHORAGE HOUSE OF HOBBIES

1200 John Harden Dr.

Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.

CONNECTICUT • Milford

www.anchoragehouseofhobbies.com Alaska’s best hobby supplier since 1964. Two stories, 6,300sf, 1st floor all R/C, 2nd floor general hobbies, plastics, trains, slot cars, telescopes & more!

2803 Spenard Rd.

CONNECTICUT • Cos Cob

800-876-0414

Ad Index

We believe that our readers are as important as our advertisers. If you do not receive your merchandise or a reply from an advertiser within a reasonable period, please contact us. Provide details about what you ordered and the amount you paid. If no action is obtained after we forward your complaint to the advertiser, we will not accept further advertising from them. FineScale Modeler magazine, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53187. The Advertiser Index is provided as a service to FineScale Modeler magazine readers. The magazine is not responsible for omissions or for typographical errors in names or page numbers.

OREGON • Hillsboro

Let your imagination run wild! Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, model railroading Z to G and more...

TRAINS & THINGS HOBBIES

210 East Front St.

231-947-1353

MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit

Your single stop model building shop. Michigan’s largest selection of new and vin-tage kits in all genres plus everything needed to build them. Wed - Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5 Visit us on Facebook. www.modelcave.com

MODELCAVE

103 W. Michigan Avenue

734-316-2281

NC • ARDEN Not just trains. Academy Models, AFV Club, Bandai, Hobby Engine, Morgan Cycle, Revell Monogram, Tamiya & More! www. FactoryDirectTrains.com 

FACTORY DIRECT TRAINS

7 GLENN BRIDGE RD STE B

800-990-3381

NEVADA • Las Vegas

HOBBYTOWN USA

702-889-9554

NEW HAMPSHIRE • Dover

ELITE HOBBIES

603-749-0800

NEW JERSEY • Kenvil

KENVIL HOBBIES

973-584-1188

NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden) Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts, tools. Open 7 days

AAA HOBBIES & CRAFTS

706 N. White Horse Pike

856-435-7645

NEW YORK • Middle Island Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies. Books and magazines.

MEN AT ARMS HOBBIES, INC.

134 Middle Country Rd.

DEAN’S HOBBY STOP

989-720-2137

MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit) New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more. www.michtoy.com MICHIGAN TOY SOLDIER & FIGURE CO. 1400 E. 11 Mile Rd. 248-586-1022

Large Selection New & Used Kits Military books, tools, paint, airbrushes Full line hobby shop open Tue - Thur 10-6, Fri 10-7, Sat 10-4 www.CoolTrains.com

COOLTRAINS TOYS & HOBBIES

106 W. Main Street

717-898-7119

HO & N, Lionel trains. Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies. Open 11am-6pm M-F, Sat. 10am-5pm www.gandgmodelshop.com

G & G MODEL SHOP

2522 Times Blvd.

713-529-7752

Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes. Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7. Sat 10:30-6. www.malhobby.com

M-A-L HOBBY SHOP

108 S. Lee Street

972-438-9233

Scale modeling from beginner to expert. A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, figures, ships, & sci-fi. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10am-6pm.

DIBBLE’S HOBBIES

1029 Donaldson Ave.

210-735-7721

WASHINGTON • Seattle

Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details! 590 Rt. 46

503-648-3788

PENNSYLVANIA • Landisville (Lancaster)

TEXAS • San Antonio

Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors #334 90 Washington St.

HILLSBORO HOBBY SHOP

345 E. Main St.

TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)

While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories. Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5. 4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103

Full service hobby shop. Over 6,000 recently acquired models. All the supplies you need to build your model. www.hillsborohobby.com

TEXAS • Houston

631-924-0583

Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models. Large selection of detail parts. Largest selection of plastic models in South Seattle! www.skywaymodel.com

SKYWAY MODEL SHOP

12615 Renton Ave. South

206-772-1211

CANADA–ON • Ottawa (Vanier) One of Canada’s leading model shops. Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories. Free parking. On Parle Francais.

HOBBY HOUSE, LTD

80 Montreal Rd.

613-749-5245

CANADA–ON • Toronto Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & finishing products. Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections. www.wheelswingshobbies.com

WHEELS AND WINGS

1880 Danforth Ave.

416-752-0071

NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum. Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits. Open 7 days.

JAN’S HOBBY SHOP, INC.

1435 Lexington Ave.

212-987-4765

OKLAHOMA • Owasso

Thousands of model kits from old Aurora to new releases. Mon 4pm-7pm, Tues - Fri 11:30am-5pm. Sat 11:30am-4:00pm E-mail: [email protected] 116 N. Washington Street

MICHIGAN • Traverse City

Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint & aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor, ships, trains & sci-fi. Special orders welcome! Tue - Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-5, Sun 1-4:30 Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com

TOP SHELF MODELS

119 S. Main St.

918-274-0433

OREGON • Beaverton

Run your Retail Directory ad in the next issue of

FineScale Modeler! Call 888-558-1544, ext. 815 for more information.

Complete full line hobby shop. Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon - Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5.

TAMMIES HOBBIES

12024 SW Canyon Rd.

503-644-4535

Alpha Precision Abrasives, Inc.___ 4

Glenn Hoover Models ________ 72

Roll Models_______________ 6, 72

ARA Press__________________ 15

Great Scale Modeling __________ 8

Scale Auto magazine __________ 75

Colpar’s Hobbytown USA _____ 72

Hornby America ______________ 6

Sprue Brothers _______________ 6

CultTVman _________________ 43

MegaHobby.com_____________ 72

Squadron Mail Order __________ 2

Dean’s Hobby Stop ___________ 72

Michigan Toy Soldier Co.______ 72

Tamiya America, Inc. _________ 76

Evergreen Scale Models ________ 4

Micro-Mark Tools ____________ 9

TotalNavy.com ______________ 72

Fantastic Plastic Models _______ 72

Oldmodelkits.com ___________ 72

Xuron ______________________ 4

FineScale Modeler books ___ 71, 75

ParaGrafix Modeling Systems ___ 8

Zvezda USA _________________ 4

FineScale Modeler DVD ______ 71

Plastruct, Inc. ________________ 4

FineScale Modeler magazine ____ 9

Proxxon, Inc. _________________ 9 www.FineScale.com

73

FINAL DETAILS By Mark Hembree

This MiG is over, easy

Jerry's scrambled MiG drew chuckles at the IPMS/USA Nationals in Omaha, Neb.

B

alancing an egg is no mean feat — but balancing a scratchbuilt egg with a plastic model for comic effect is something few even

attempt. Count Jerry Fraske of Livonia, Mich., among the few. He left ’em laughing at the 2017 IPMS/USA National Convention in Omaha, Neb., last summer with just one MiG, scrambled. “It was something fun to build for a change of pace,” he says. Still, comedy is a tricky business that requires technique. Looking at the various elements involved, and asked what he thinks is essential in his display, Jerry gives a practical answer. “It really is the frying pan,” he says. “It makes the scene and pulls it all together as

More at www.FineScale.com Visit us to see more models, humorous or not, from the 2017 IPMS/USA Nationals. 74 FineScale Modeler November 2017

the focal point, and it emphasizes the humor. It also serves as a convenient and natural base for the presentation.” True enough — if you’re going to fry a MiG, you’re going to need a pan. And, of course, a MiG. Jerry shelled out for one of Hasegawa’s eggplanes, increasingly popular among modelers suffering from AMS (Advanced Modeler Syndrome) and looking for relaxation. “I’m usually a stickler,” he says. “This is the opposite.” He cracked open the project using a motor tool to strategically thin the plastic where he wanted to fold in effects. The plane is painted with Alclad II metallic lacquer — and, even in the midst of making fun, Jerry couldn’t restrain himself from airbrushing a nice finish. He did a nice job of replicating a real fried egg, too. The egg white is simply white glue, applied in the proper thickness to represent its partially cooked state. The yolk is half of a Ping-Pong ball painted with Tamiya orange, straight up.

Modelers painting fried eggs, take note: Tamiya orange is just the right color for yolks — seriously. A shard or two of plastic, reserved from the motor tooling, represents broken shell dropped in the pan (a homey touch). An overcoat of Pledge FloorCare MultiSurface Finish homogenized the sheen to make the egg, unlike the MiG, look whole. The finishing touch was — waaaait for it — the check, please. A hostess at a local restaurant was delighted to provide him with a blank to fill out. In keeping with his relaxed attitude on this project, Jerry didn’t devote a lot of time to it. “Maybe six or seven hours,” he says, “over five nights.” Even spouses who grant modeling time without rancor might be a bit put out to find a husband doing something that’s just plain silly. Not Jerry’s wife, Lisa. “She gets a kick out of it,” Jerry says. “‘Benevolent tolerance’ is what I would call it.” FSM

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