FineScale.com + READER TIPS, Q&A, 6 NEW KIT BUILDS/REVIEWS March 2017 Create realistic olive drab winter wearp.16 Go all out on a halftrackp.30 Fill g...60 downloads 385 Views 14MB Size
Layering can add color to your armor > p.40
BUILD BETTER WARSHIPS TIPS FOR PAINTING, DETAILING & RIGGING Ulf Lundberg’s SMS Seydlitz – p.20
Create realistic olive drab winter wear p.16 Go all out on a halftrack p.30 SPECIAL
Fill gaps with putty p.50
STAR TRE CONTESTK WINNERS p.44
+ READER TIPS, Q & A, 6 NEW KIT BUILDS/REVIEWS Platz F-15J Eagle
Takom King Tiger
Roden C-141B Starlifter
BONUS ONLINE CONTENT CODE PAGE 3 Vol. 35 • Issue 3
Setting the new standard in plastic model kits with the release of The Haunebu II!
About The Kit:
Newly tooled plastic model kit premiere from Squadron Models of the infamous German WWII Haunebu II project. This historic kit is a 1/72nd scale model of one of the most top secret projects of Hitler’s Germany. • 125 total parts with complete detailed interior. • Two piece bottom disc, with a fully retractable entrance ramp. • Main turret with detachable (if desired) roof, housing 2 x 110mm canon. • Detailed landing gear with the choice of being closed or extended, • 4 rotating ball turrets each displaying 2 x 80mm guns. •6HWWLQJDQHZVWDQGDUGLQSODVWLFPRGHONLWVWKLVWKHYHU\ÀUVWNLWIURP Squadron Models – Helping History Take Flight.
ONLINE CONTENT CODE: FSM1703
March 2017 /// Vol. 35 /// No. 3
Enter this code at www.FineScale.com/code to gain access to web-exclusive content
16 Form & Figure
54 Takom King Tiger
Painting olive drab winter wear JOE HUDSON
56 Meng Model T-72B3
18 Airbrushing & Finishing U.S. Navy camouflage AARON SKINNER
56 Platz F-15J Eagle J-MSIP
18 20 One tough ship
58 Roden C-141B Starlifter
Build, paint, and rig SMS Seydlitz ULF LUNDBERG
58 Revell Germany HMCS Snowberry
26 Catch a neon Tiger Hasegawa’s 1/72 scale F11F-1 FRANK CUDEN
59 Meng Hummer H1
30 Take a halftrack all the way Making a 75mm Autocar Canadian STEVE GUTHRIE
60 IBG Models KTO Rosomak
IN EVERY ISSUE
33 Make time for a Turbo Tracker Conversion to a Grumman S-2T RICARDO DACOBA
5 Editor’s Page
40 Adding color to Israeli armor
7 Scale Talk
Academy’s 1/35 scale Merkava Mk.IV KAREL SUTT
10 New Products
44 FSM Contest Gallery
Where Star Trek modelers boldly go
50 Putty in your hands
36 Reader Gallery 61 Reader Tips
Gap fillers and how to use them AARON SKINNER
62 Questions & Answers
53 Go big on little 1/72 scale Harley-Davidson WLA BART CUSUMANO
64 Hobby Shop Directory 64 Classified Marketplace
66 Final Details Be careful what you wish for ED BAROTH
65 Advertiser Index
FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187. Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, PO Box 62320, Tampa, FL 33662-2320. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.
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4 FineScale Modeler March 2017
Finishing techniques : How we’ve
Your modeling skills will
SOAR with FineScale Modeler!
BUILD A BASE
ADD GROU TO CREAT NDWORK & WEATHERIN CORSAIR E A REALISTIC G DIORAMA
EAG QUE LE ST
Weather a Sea REVIEW
• Detail a Spitfire
P: 9 NEW
KITS BUIL T p.52
No matter what you like to model, it’s in FineScale Modeler.
Go to www.FineScale.com
EDITOR’S PAGE By Mark Savage
Finishing what we started, or not We all have stashes and we all have - We hate to paint, love to build. unbuilt kits. That’s a given. - We hit a stopper, a technique we But in the December issue I asked haven’t or can’t seem to master (airhow many models you’ve started and brushing came up). not finished, and why they remain - Another model caught our attenunfinished. tion, so Project A goes on hold. Here’s what you told me. - Bad kit fit killed our enthusiasm. There are really just two kinds of - Started old kit, new (better) one modelers: the perfectionists and the was released. rest of us. - The dog ate our work Those who complete every (Jim Gourgues claims his Starting is model fall into the first catedog has a plastic fetish). always gory. They may have a huge There are hundreds of easy. stash they’ll never comvariations on these themes. Finishing plete, but by golly, if they But you get the idea. is much start a model they finish it. Still, a few reader specifharder. Not to name names, but ics are in order: reader Thomas Kupferer is - Miles Dunscombe notes one of those. He has 564 completed that no less than the Wright Brothers models and two in the works. suggested working on potential projAs for the rest of us? We have ect stoppers before tackling easier excuses, I mean reasons: tasks. And he sums up what many of - We lost a key part or broke one. us feel: “Starting is always easy. - We discovered girls/women. Finishing is much harder.” - The instructions were unclear. - Mel Van Stone, who reads FSM - Life got in the way. in the Philippines, says “space” is his
final frontier, in that he can’t finish another model until he finds more space in his house. - One more, and this takes us back to the pooches. Edward Angel of California suffered an “insane border collie incident.” He has a stash of just 20 kits after the aforementioned collie destroyed his stash and most of his “in progress” builds. He calls the incident “both tragic and liberating at the same time.” It freed him from old projects and the burden of all those unfinished kits. Now Ed only buys a new one when he has finished a model. He’s happy with his new approach. That’s what counts, right? Let’s just hope happy means we finish something we started!
Off the sprue: The best book you’ve read recently?
Editor Mark Savage [email protected]
Senior Editor Aaron Skinner [email protected]
Associate Editor Mark Hembree [email protected]
Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash [email protected]
Editorial Associate Monica Freitag [email protected]
I have a hard time reading novels, as I doze after a couple pages. I like books with short stories or chapters. Loved Bones Bourcier’s latest, Foyt, Andretti, Petty. Further fueled my love of racing lore. These three were amazing!
I jump between reading nonfiction and novels with abandon. Rjurik Davidson’s Unwrapped Sky recently succeeded The Bang-Bang Club: Snapshots from a Hidden War, an account of news photographers covering apartheid.
On a recent road trip I listened to Fluke: Or I Know Why the Winged Whale Sings by Christopher Moore. Hilarious! Moore is an inveterate wisenheimer. And, of course, my ongoing read of Ring Lardner stories.
I notice something new every time I reread Girl with a Pearl Earring by Tracy Chevalier. Depicting the life of Dutch painter, Vermeer, it’s full of good adjectives about color and lighting.
I got Troublemaker: Surviving Hollywood and Scientology by Leah Remini, from a friend last summer. A very outspoken book that got media attention. The religious practice and the celebrity-ism with it kept it interesting.
Designed by a Modeler for Scale Modelers Professional Sprue Cutter 2175ET
Editor Mark Savage Art Director Tom Ford
Senior Editor Aaron Skinner Associate Editor Mark Hembree Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash Editorial Associate Monica Freitag
ART Illustrator Kellie Jaeger Photographer William Zuback Production Coordinator Cindy Barder
Easily trim delicate, tightly spaced parts. Clean, close cuts. No pinching or twisting. Large, ergonomic grips for greater control. Purchase at hobby stores worldwide. Subscribe to our Xuron Blog to be automatically enrolled in frequent product giveaways.
CONTRIBUTING MODELERS Paul Boyer, Federico Collada, Andy Cooper, Raúl Corral, Frank Cuden, Phillip Gore, James Green, Joe Hudson, Rick Lawler, Karl Logan, Harvey Low, Rato Marczak, Chris Mrosko, Bill Plunk, Darren Roberts, Chuck Sawyer, Cookie Sewell, Bob Steinbrunn, Cristóbal Vergara, Jim Wechsler, Adam Wilder
KALMBACH PUBLISHING CO. Senior VP Sales & Marketing Daniel R. Lance Vice President, Content Stephen C. George Vice President, Consumer Marketing Nicole McGuire General Manager Brian J. Schmidt Advertising Director Scott Bong Corporate Art Director Maureen M. Schimmel Art and Production Manager Michael Soliday Circulation Manager Cathy Daniels Single Copy Specialist Kim Redmond
ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT 888-558-1544 Advertising Sales Representative Todd Schwartz, Ext. 539 Advertising Services Representative [email protected]
RETAIL, TRADE ORDERS, AND INQUIRIES Selling FineScale Modeler magazine or products in your store: Phone 800-558-1544 Outside U.S. & Canada 262-796-8776, Ext. 818 Fax 262-798-6592 E-mail [email protected] Website www.Retailers.Kalmbach.com
CUSTOMER SALES AND SERVICE Phone 800-533-6644 Outside the U.S. and Canada 813-910-3616 Customer Service [email protected] Digital [email protected] Back Issues [email protected]
SPECIAL EMAIL & WEB ADDRESSES Ad Sales [email protected] Letters to the Editor [email protected] New Products [email protected] Reader Gallery Contribute.Kalmbach.com Reader Questions [email protected] Reader Tips [email protected] Editorial phone (262) 796-8776; advertising (888) 5581544; customer service & sales (800) 533-6644; outside the U.S. and Canada (813) 910-3616. ©2017, Kalmbach Publishing Co., all rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in any form without permission. Printed in the U.S.A. Allow 6 to 8 weeks for new subscriptions and address changes. Subscription rate: single copy $6.99; U.S. 1 year (10 issues), $39.95; 2 years (20 issues), $74.95; 3 years (30 issues), $94.95. Canadian: Add $8.00 postage per year. Canadian price includes GST, payable in U.S. funds. All other international subscriptions: Add $12 postage per year, payable in U.S. funds, drawn on a U.S. bank. BN 12271 3209 RT. Not responsible for unsolicited materials.
6 FineScale Modeler March 2017
Your voice in FSM
Constructive vs. destructive criticism A little while back, FSM readers were discussing the difference between constructive and destructive criticism. Case in point: I recently built a nice German Tiger tank with Zimmerit and a lot of detailing. I was very proud of my build. I took it to a contest where the judges spent a long time looking at it. However, I didn’t win an award. Confused, I asked one of the judges to explain. He pointed out several flaws, including areas that had not been detailed properly and parts that could have been put together more securely. I thanked him for his comments and took my tank home to make the corrections he suggested. And guess what? I won first place with it at the next contest! I call that constructive criticism. Now for the destructive criticism: At a different contest, I overheard a judge describing a tank in the junior category as “a piece of junk.” It may not have been my child’s model or the model of anyone I knew, but I was nonetheless hurt by his comment. And how rude that he said it loud enough for other people to hear, too! If we are trying to get youth into modeling instead of computer games, then we can’t make comments like that. Destructive criticism can stop young modelers from continuing with the hobby. We should keep such negativity quiet! – J. Thomas Cox Perrysburg, Ohio
Cockpit as an office Like so many of us, as a kid I built Aurora, Monogram, Revell, and a couple of Guillow’s balsa kits that flew, sort of … just not very well. As time went on, the hobby waned. I found myself working for Air Force Magazine for a couple of decades as an art director and photographer.
Guy’s work on a 1/48 scale Vought F7U-3 Cutlass: Read his column online at HistoryNet.com.
Now at www.FineScale.com
Free desktop wallpaper Download a desktop wallpaper of Revell Germany’s 1/144 scale HMCS Snowberry built by Ted Horn for Workbench Reviews and featured on p. 58 in this issue. Online Extras Want to see more photos of Academy’s 1/35 scale Israeli main battle tank featured on p. 40? Get a 360˚ tour of the finished Merkava Mk.IV built by Karel Sutt online.
I was fortunate to call a cockpit my “office,” madly going through rolls of film, chasing jets, and photographing the finest aviators in the world (yes, I’m proudly biased). I quickly found myself back in the hobby again, building whatever I’d flown in. After a time, I shifted gears, moving to another job as photo editor for Aviation History magazine. It had a modeling column, and when the author decided to hang up his hobby knife, I was asked, “Do you wanna do it?” Yes, sure, OK, yup! It’s been a few issues now and the 9-year-old in me is amazed that I’m getting paid to build! With this new job, I wanted to say thank you to FSM. You guys are just awesome. I don’t know what I’d do without the notes on new kits, techniques, and even the features on things I’d never build. I appreciate all of the work involved in putting out a quality publication, maintaining that web and social media presence involved with the whole 21st century ball of wax, and getting to the workbench to build. In the latest issue you talked about what readers want more or less of. I say, “Bring it all.” I’d like to think I can learn from a technique someone used on a hot rod and apply it to my Lindberg X-3. There’s always something to learn —
New Product Rundown Videos Learn more about a kit before you buy. Aaron Skinner and Elizabeth Nash host a twice-monthly review of the newest models in which you get to see inside the boxes.
that isn’t said enough. Now, where’s that number so I can renew my subscription? – Guy Aceto, photo editor Aviation History magazine Vienna, Va. Ed.: Thanks! Guy and anyone else can subscribe by calling 800-533-6644. If you’re outside the U.S. or Canada, call 813-910-3616.
Youth in modeling I liked reading the letter about the young modeler’s club in the April 2016 Scale Talk. It’s nice to see young people getting back into the hobby. I’ve grown up with it and it’s a fantastic hobby. I will do what I can to make it grow and help it continue after I’m gone! – David Rusterholz Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
It’s rigged As a longtime subscriber, I would like to see articles on how to rig a 1/350 scale World War II U.S. aircraft carrier and battleship. It’s probably not the easiest subject to photograph, but I would love to read an article or two about this area. Thanks! – Michael Steenstra Ozark, Mo. www.FineScale.com
The Spaceship Enthusiasts’ One-Stop Data Shop!
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x 235 Pages, 80 lb coated stock
Remembering Pearl Harbor
x Smythe-sewn Hardcover binding
x Over 400 photographs and illustrations, most in color
x Over 100
pages of Dimensioned Drawings and hardware analyses
x 34 Pages x Softcover,
x Color cover
Here is “Last Liberty,” my tribute diorama to the men of the USS Arizona featured in the December FSM. It was put on display at the Naval War College museum in Newport, R.I., for the 75th anniversary of Pearl Harbor. As a side note, the Navy did a magnificent job honoring Pearl Harbor survivor Jack A. Stoeber at the USS Utah memorial on Dec. 1 — even though it was pouring! I salute all who took the time to participate (and my friend who showed up with an umbrella right on time). –Rob Bracci, contributing author Stratford, Conn. Ed: Stoeber served as a carpenter’s mate and was stationed on the Dobbin-class destroyer tender USS Whitney during the attacks. Bracci spoke at Stoeber’s memorial service.
plus 18 B&W photos
x Spiral wire
x 15 Detailed Data Drawings.
2QO\DQVDYLQJV We’ll even pay domestic shipping! Please visit our website to order on-line. All Credit Cards and PayPal accepted. Call or write “[email protected]” for shipping options. Sales Tax added for CA orders
ARA Press 785 Jefferson Ave. Livermore, CA 94550 (925) 583-5126 www.arapress.com 8 FineScale Modeler March 2017
A little bit of everything
hobby. I am fortunate enough to live near a naval test base where I get to see unique airMODEL HISTORY craft. I would consider myself a beginner and I do not have much experience with creating custom decals. However, a friend asked if I could make decals representing the Boeing F/A-18F Super Hornet fighter that is at his – Dan Jenkins squadron with a very unique paint scheme. Santa Rosa, Calif. As a matter of fact, there is only one in existence! Ed.: Tell us what else you’d like to see in FSM. I finished the model about a month ago. Answer our monthly online surveys, which you It is currently in a Styrofoam block awaitcan f ind on our home page. ing a case. Of course, now that I am done with it, If you build it, the manufacturers Revell has released a version with the same will, too paint scheme! I’m just getting back into the hobby after While I am proud of the work I did finishing my military career — moving with the custom decals, I think Revell has around so much doesn’t bode well for this me beat! Thank you for the diversity in the December 2016 issue. The USS Nevada article, the Midwestern Model Ships & Boats show gallery, and even a train locomotive in Reader Gallery! It was a very welcome break from aircraft and armor. I hope you can do it more often.
Pearl Harbor 75th Anniversary Special
bound w/ scuff resistant polymer covers
WE SHOW YOU HOW TO
Hand-paint a Val’s markings p.30
Chuck Davis’ 1/48 Aichi D3A1 Val
Create a USS Arizona vignette p.22
Paul Boyer’s 1/72 Curtiss P-40B
Restore Hollywood’s USS Nevada p.34
Make a heroic P-40 p.26
Finish a realistic Nashorn p.46 Master a gun-truck conversion p.42
60 NEW PRODUCTS p.10 Roden M37
7 KIT REVIEWS / BUILDS p.56
Kinetic Super Étendard
Stuart Didsbury’s one-of-a-kind Boeing F/A-18F Super Hornet with custom decals; inset, the recent release from Revell.
Just thought I would share one of the unique aircraft in the U.S. Navy inventory. – Stuart Didsbury Lexington Park, Md. Ed.: Who else has designed their own kit or decals, only to have the same model show up on store shelves upon completion?
and the diagrams that illustrated why each step of the process is important. Those helped me visualize the method clearly and improve my decals. Overall, I found the entire issue to be helpful because my favorite part of modeling is the painting and finishing. I also enjoyed the photos from the 2015 AMPS contest and IPMS/USA conven-
tion. The pictures have inspired me to construct a small diorama. Once again, I appreciate your work to publish this helpful magazine. – Erik Price, age 13 Arlington, Va. Ed.: Thanks, Erik! Be sure to send us pictures of your f inished builds. Happy modeling!
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A comment on Facebook: FSM’s survey works! I answer FSM’s most-wanted kits survey every time it’s run. I have always asked for someone to produce a 1/35 scale M37 Dodge and was pleased to learn that my wish has been answered. Here is a photo of my 1/1 scale M37 which was a restoration project that took me three years to complete. I found the process to be much like building a model.
Ele fan t w i t h Cu s to m A poxie ® Scu lp t Zim m er i t by, Jo e Por ter
– Larry LaBahn Elgin, Ill.
Visualize the solution I enjoyed the article “Decals demystified” by Aaron Skinner in the Holiday 2015 Ultimate Guide to Finishing special issue. I find decals to be one of the most complicated parts of modeling to get correct. I liked his explanation of how decals work www.FineScale.com
NEW PRODUCTS Compiled by Monica Freitag & Aaron Skinner
Two great kits and something for the wall
duard (www.eduard.com) has a reputation for creative marketing ideas when it comes to kits, from Weekend Editions, with no photo-etch (PE), to Royal Editions with multiple kits and extras like resin parts and a beer glass, and Limited Editions with another company’s plastic,
new decals, and detail parts. The latest variation is strikingly unique. EduArt kits combine existing plastic parts with Eduard details and beautiful covers by noted artists. A limited edition print of the box art is the pièce de résistance of each kit. Dawn Patrol (No. 11102X) is a perfect example.
The cover and 19" x 11" print by Koike Shigeo show American ace Frank Luke in a SPAD 13 chasing German pilot Günther von Büren in a Fokker D.VII. Inside are Eduard’s 1/48 scale kits of the World War I fighters, colored PE details, and masks. Decals
provide markings for the aircraft in the art, so you get two terrific models for your display case and stunning artwork for the workshop wall. Dawn Patrol costs $74.95.
AIRCRAFT KITS 1/32 SCALE
Bf 109F-4 from Eduard, No. 82114, $49.95.
Area 88 F-8E Crusader “Shin Kazama” from Hasegawa, No. 64739, $64.99. Limited Edition.
Boeing B-17E/F Flying Fortress from HK Models, No. 01E05, $300.
Macchi C.202 Folgore from Eduard, No. 1132, $59.95. Limited Edition. Dornier Do 215B-4 “Oberkommando der Luftwaffe” from Hasegawa, No. 07443, $109.99. Limited Edition.
1/72 SCALE British Phantom FG Mk.I Treble One‚ from Hasegawa, No. 07441, $89.99. Limited Edition. Curtiss P-40B Warhawk from Airfix, No. A05130, $29.99.
Mikoyan MiG-25PD Foxbat Russian Air Force‚ from Hasegawa, No. 02213, $59.99. Limited Edition.
F/A-18F Super Hornet from Revell,
Kawasaki T-4 Blue Impulse 2016 from
No. 85-5532, $26.95.
Hasegawa, No. 07442, $59.99.
10 FineScale Modeler March 2017
ARMOR KITS 1/35 SCALE
MV-22B Osprey VMM-265 Dragons from Hasegawa, No. 02212, $62.99. Limited Edition.
Husky MKIII VMMD (vehicle mounted mine detector) from Panda Hobby, No. PH35014, $42.95.
KTO Rosomak from IBG, No. 35034, $41.75.
B-52G Stratofortress from Italeri, No. 1378, $72.99. Gulf War 25th Anniversary.
Chevrolet C30A General Service (steel body) from IBG, No. 35038, $27.
T-14 Apmata (Object 148) from Panda Hobby, No. PH35016, $74.95.
Nakajima B5N2 Kate‚ from Airfix, No. A04058, $19.99.
P-51C Mustang Excalibur III from Hasegawa, No. 02215, $59.99. Limited Edition. Two kits included.
Bumerang IFV Object K-17 from Panda Hobby, No. PH35026, $59.95.
T-15 Apmata (Object 149) from Panda Hobby, No. PH35017, $79.95.
Kurganets-25 BTR (Object 693) from Panda Hobby, No. PH35024, $59.95.
LMV Lince United Nations from Italeri, KC-767J & E-767 AWACS JASDF from
No. 6535, $51.99.
Hasegawa, No. 10802, $59.99. Limited Edition. Two kits included.
NEW PRODUCTS FIGURE KITS 1/35 SCALE
US Army tractor from Thunder Models, No. 35001, $39.95.
Type 89 Japanese medium tank Kou gasoline late from IBG, No. 72040, $21.99.
1/87 SCALE British and German Cavalrymen, WWI era from Master Box Ltd., No. MB35184, $13.56.
AIRCRAFT DECALS Tiger I Middle Production (SdKfz.181 PzKpfw VI Ausf E) from Rye Field Model, No. RM-5010, $84.
1/32 SCALE German Wehrmacht 88mm gun in winter camouflage from Artitec Models,
Focke-Wulf Fw 190 Stab Part 1 from
No. 687.0072, $35.86.
Xtradecal, No. 32064, $14.35.
Messerschmitt Bf 109 Stab Part 1 from Xtradecal, No. 32065, $14.35.
Hawker Tempest Mk.2/F.2 from Xtradecal, No. 32066, $14.35.
1/48 SCALE German Wehrmacht Panther in winter camouflage from Artitec Models, No. 387.189, Soviet SU-101 SPA from Trumpeter,
Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IX Collection from
No. 09505, $69.95.
Xtradecal, No. 48172, $18.
German Wehrmacht SdKfz 7 in winter camouflage from Artitec Models, No. 687.0068, $35.86.
Tornado Special Schemes from Xtradecal, No. 48171, $15.75.
SHIP KITS Russian fire support combat vehicle Terminator from Zvezda, No. 5046, $49.95.
Focke-Wulf Fw 190 Stab Part 1 from Xtradecal, No. 48170, $9.
1/72 SCALE 1/700 SCALE RAAF & RNZAF National Insignia from Xtradecal, No. 72260, $6.
Tatsuta Japanese navy light cruiser “super detail” from Hasegawa, No. 30039, $62.99. Limited Edition. Photo-etch included.
Soviet tank Destroyer ISU-I22 from Zvezda,
Focke-Wulf Fw 190 Stab Part 1 from
No. 5054, $16.99.
Xtradecal, No. 72261, $9.
12 FineScale Modeler March 2017
AIRCRAFT DETAILS 1/32 SCALE
PT-17 for Revell from Eduard, No. 49785, $26.95.
Seatbelts Italy WWII fighters steel from Eduard, No. 49105, $19.95.
Pfalz D.XII landing gear for Wingnut Wings from Scale Aircraft Conversion, No. 32112, $16.95.
B-17 control columns for HK Models from Master Details, No. 32047, $9.95. P-40B for Airfix from Eduard, No. 49786,
1/48 SCALE CBU-87 from Eduard/Brassin Line, No. 648 274, $14.95. Brassin Line.
Do 17Z-2 for ICM from Eduard, No. 49790, $22.95.
Correction: Thunder Spirit Western Style Indian girl in the January 2017 issue pp. 11 is from Master Box not ICM as listed.
Seatbelts USN WWII fighters steel from Eduard, No. 49104, $19.95.
NEW PRODUCTS SHIP DETAILS
Axis Aircraft in Latin America, $56.95, by Amaru Tincopa and Santiago Rivas, hard cover, 400 pages, 350+ color photos, ISBN: 978-1902109-49-7. From Specialty Press.
Drone Strike, $39.95, by Bill Yenne, hard cover, 208 pages, 284+ color photos, ISBN: 978-0-58007238-0. From Specialty Press.
IAR-80 landing fear for HobbyBoss from Scale Aircraft Conversion, No. 48319, $14.95.
1/72 SCALE Mi-24/35 upgrade set for Eduard from Eduard, No. 72633, $14.95.
B-17G cockpit interior for Airfix from
HMCS Snowberry Part 1 armament for Revell from Eduard, No. 53175, $49.95. HMCS Snowberry Part 2 super structure for Revell from Eduard, No. 53176, $49.95.
Eduard, No. 73567, $34.95.
Su-33 Flanker J-15 PLAAF landing gear for Trumpeter from Scale Aircraft Conversion, No. 72133, $14.95. MiG-29 landing gear for Zvezda from Scale Aircraft Conversion, No. 72134, $14.95.
American Aircraft Development of WWII: Special Types 1939-1945, $39.95, Modern fighter hangar set prints from Noy's Miniatures, Available in: 1/144 NM144026 $10.80, 1/72 NM7226 $14.90, 1/48 NM4826 $20.30, 1/32 NM3226 $65.10. Set of 3 prints depicts the inside of a typical maintenance hangar. Printed on quality card stock.
by Bill Norton, hard cover, 256 pages, 300+ photos, ISBN: 978-0-085979-188-5. From Specialty Press.
French Secret Projects — PostWar Fighters, $44.95, by Tony Butler, hard cover, 280 pages, 450 photos, ISBN: 978-1-91080900-6. From Specialty Press.
Fiber-tipped applicators for applying glue, paint, lubricants, solvents, and other materials in hard-to-reach areas from Denbur. Magic Brush, (20-pack, $5) is available in extra small (white handle), small (yellow) and medium (teal). Bristle applicator (blue) and multi-hold handle (pearl white) also available.
ARMOR DETAILS 1/35 SCALE
More at www.FineScale.com
Mikoyan MiG-17 Famous Russian Aircraft, $64.95, by
Duckbills from Bronco Models, No. AB3548, $6.99. For US M4 Sherman tank T48/T51/T54E1 track link. Track parts not included.
14 FineScale Modeler March 2017
Yefim Gordon and Dmitriy Komissarov, hard cover, 480 pages, 1,200+ photos, ISBN: 978-1-85780372-3. From Specialty Press.
Miles M.52 — Britain’s Top Secret Supersonic Research Aircraft, $39.95, by Tony Butler, hard cover, 160 pages, 140 photos, ISBN: 978-1-91080904-4. From Specialty Press.
Check out the 100th episode of FSM’S NEW PRODUCT RUNDOWN!
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FORM & FIGURE By Joe Hudson
Olive drab winter wear Painting a GI’s overcoat for the Battle of the Bulge
f there’s a constant for American soldiers from World War II through Korea and Vietnam, it’s olive drab. For modelers, though, that shade is not a constant. Different colors are referred to as olive drab and vary widely from green to tan. And then there are wear and weather that can stain and fade uniforms. I painted Warriors’ 120mm U.S. Infantryman ETO 1944-45 (No. 16009), focusing on the overcoat — officially designated Overcoat, Wool Melton, O.D., Roll Collar, 32-oz — worn by GIs throughout the war. Sculpted by John Rosengrant, the resin figure features amazing detail.
After cleaning and assembling the parts, I filled gaps with Aves Apoxie Sculpt. I added dirt and mud to the uniform by stippling Mr. Surfacer 500 around the overcoat’s hem, knees, elbows, and seat. The same method textured the helmet and wool scarf.
Deviating from my usual priming process, I airbrushed the model with Vallejo black primer. Then I airbrushed light gray primer directly down from straight over the head to guide highlights and shadows. Over this, I painted the overcoat’s base color to block in the scarf.
Paints used Vallejo Model Color 70.819 Iraqi Sand Vallejo Model Color 70.821 German Camo Beige Vallejo Model Color 70.847 Dark Sand Vallejo Model Color 70.872 Chocolate Brown Vallejo Model Color 70.873 U.S. Field Drab
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Next Issue Vallejo Model Color 70.887 Brown Violet Vallejo Model Color 70.889 U.S. Olive Drab Vallejo Model Color 70.893 U.S. Dark Green Vallejo Model Color 70.950 Black Vallejo Panzer Aces 70.318 U.S. Army Tank Crew
We get scruffy as Joe demonstrates three foolproof ways to paint a 5 o’clock shadow.
3 I painted the wool scarf with a mix of brown violet and U.S. dark green and a drop of U.S. olive drab. To mix, I squeeze a pool of the first color — here brown violet — onto a palette. Imagine that pool as an eye; the next color should be the size of a pupil relative to it.
6 For shadows, I mixed the base with U.S. olive drab. More olive drab deepened the areas under the folds, followed by adding more olive drab. The deepest shadows are a mix of U.S. olive drab and a dot of black.
4 Next came initial highlights, a mix of the base color and U.S. Army tank crew brushed onto all upper surfaces. In keeping with the earlier metaphor, each new shade is created by adding a pupil-sized drop in the mix.
7 I added highlights to the overcoat previously painted with a mix of U.S. field drab, U.S. dark green, and U.S. olive drab to match olive drab 33. The first layer was a mix of the base color and more U.S. field drab applied above the waist, so thin it’s barely perceptible.
5 Gradually brighter highlights were applied in layers. First came a mix with more U.S. Army tank crew, then a mix of U.S. Army tank crew and dark sand. The final highlights were pure dark sand.
8 More highlights followed: first, straight U.S. field drab on the upper side of the folds, shoulders, and collar. Pay attention to the figure’s posture to determine where highlights would be most prominent.
Next, I added a little German camo beige to the field drab to brighten the most exposed folds and sections. Mixing in Iraqi sand, I painted on the last highlights and outlined edges, such as on the collar.
I added similar highlights below the waist using a larger brush. When working on large areas like this, keep the paint thin. Wet the surface first to aid paint flow.
I started shadows by brushing a mix of the base color and U.S. olive drab under folds in the coat. Pure olive drab deepened them; mixing in a touch of black colored the darkest creases.
I got carried away with the shadows, especially below the belt (left). Thin glazes of the next lightest shade softened the effect and blended the shadows.
Building on the effect of the Mr. Surfacer, I applied thin glazes of chocolate brown to the areas most likely to get dirty. Speeding along with a hair dryer allowed me to build texture.
Next, I loaded a No. 2 brush with thin chocolate brown and gently rubbed my finger across the bristles to splatter a little mud over the lower part of the coat. FSM www.FineScale.com
AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING By Aaron Skinner
Airbrushing U.S. Navy camouflage A steady hand and layers of color weather a dive-bomber
orking with Accurate Miniature’s 1/48 scale SBD-5, Marty Sanford built a well-used Dauntless from VB-10 aboard USS Enterprise in 1944. He piled on details, including: parts from an Eduard Zoom photo-etch (PE) set for an SBD-3; Ultracast resin seats for the pilot and gunner with late-war harnesses; Master 1/72 scale .50-caliber barrels to simulate the twin .30-cal. mount in 1/48; Attack Squadron dive flaps and wheels; Quickboost exhausts; and Yagi antennas scratchbuilt from steel wire and plastic rod. But the real magic is in the camouflage and markings. Marty favors Tamiya acrylics. “I enjoy mixing colors to achieve a match to published paint references, and then to weather them, first by pre-shading and then panel fading,” he says. “This is strictly an interpretive process, often based on studying photos of real aircraft and then making my own interpretation of them.” He sprays the paints through a Tamiya Spray-Work HG-SF airbrush after thinning them with isopropyl alcohol or GSI Creos Mr. Color Thinner. “I keep my pressure at 15-20 psi, almost uniformly, when spraying acrylics,” he says. First, he airbrushed the plane with Badger Stynylrez white primer, an acrylic base coat that can be sanded. After pre-shading panel lines and recesses gray, Marty airbrushed thin layers of Tamiya flat white (XF-2) under the wings and in the locations for the national insignia. Rather than using decals, he painted the star-and-bar markings with Gator Masks applied over the white. An X drawn with a felt-tip pen helped position the masks, and a toothpick under an edge allowed him to easily reposition them. “Once I am sure it’s placed correctly, I roll the toothpicks away and burnish the mask edges in place,” he says. “This process is not unlike masking canopies.” Then he airbrushed a mix of 3 parts Tamiya royal blue (X-3) and 1 part NATO black (XF-63). After the blue dried, he covered the insignia with the previously unused parts of the masks and tape. “For the upper surfaces, I elected to spray the insignias first, mask over them, and airbrush the camouflage,” Marty says. “Next time I do this, I will paint the camouflage first before applying the marks, in the more conventional way.” Custom camouflage colors followed: first, intermediate blue on the vertical surfaces; then, dark sea blue on horizontal surfaces. Airbrushing straight lines between colors is a matter of practice, according to Marty. “I often spray my paint-thinner mix on an index card before painting on the model to get used to what the application will look like,” he says. Even with practice, mistakes happen. “Don’t be reluctant to go back over an area a second or third or fourth time if needed,” he says. “It’s never too late to go back and fix a goof until the gloss is applied, and even then there are times when a small touch-up is possible.” FSM 18 FineScale Modeler March 2017
Engine: The engine was built out of the box and painted with Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics. Washes and drybrushing enhanced the molded detail.
Dark sea blue: For the upper camouflage color, Marty mixed 1 part sea blue (XF-17), 1 part field blue (XF-50), 1 part flat blue (XF-8), and 2 parts white (XF-2).
Intermediate blue: Marty’s recipe for the middle color is 2 parts medium blue (XF-18), 2 parts flat white (XF-2), and 1 part light gray (XF-66).
Meet Marty Sanford
Cockpit: After embellishing kit detail with resin seats and PE, Marty painted with Tamiya acrylics mixed to match green zinc chromate. A wash of artist’s oils mixed with Turpenoid emphasized shadows; light dry-brushing brightened highlights.
Marty started building models as a kid in suburban Sacramento, Calif., in the 1960s. He returned to the hobby in the 1980s and likes building armor and other military vehicles, figures, and aircraft. His favorite aspects of any build are painting, mark-
ings, and the research that goes along with getting those right. A retired firefighter and Army reservist, Marty lives in Placerville, Calif., with his wife, Patty, and belongs to a local modeling club in Folsom as well as IPMS Vagabonds, a virtual chapter of IPMS/USA.
Canopy: After applying out-of-production Black Magic vinyl masks to the canopy sections, Marty sprayed them with his custom zinc chromate green to match the interior. Then he airbrushed dark sea blue.
Panel fading: The Pacific sun and salt air quickly faded camouflage colors. Marty reproduced the effect by spraying lighter shades inside panels.
“I’ve always been a fan of World War II U.S. Navy aircraft, a by-product of watching Victory at Sea as a child, I suppose.” – Marty Sanford
Marty assigned his SBD-5 to the last U.S. Navy unit equipped with Dauntlesses before dive-bombing duties switched completely over to Helldivers. www.FineScale.com
One tough ship Building, painting, and detailing a resin SMS Seydlitz /// BY ULF LUNDBERG
It’s not easy to find a 1/350 scale World War I battlecruiser of the German Hochseeflotte (High Seas Fleet), and if you do it’s likely to be resin. Ulf shows how to work with Combrig’s resin kit.
he German battlecruiser SMS Seydlitz went down in history as a ship that took some terrible beatings but gave as good as she got, and more. She fought with distinction in World War I before being scuttled along with the rest of the German fleet at Scapa Flow in June 1919. Combrig’s resin kit is a good model that produces a worthy replica. The instructions are inadequate, though, so good references are essential for a successful build.
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21 Number of heavy shells that hit SMS Seydlitz in the Battle of Jutland.
Clear markings made it easier to cleanly saw the hull along the waterline.
Plastic-card bulkheads reinforce the hull. I filled a box between the bulkheads with Milliput to house brass posts for the display stand.
Gentle force, a lot of tape, and a firm clamp were required to align the hull halves.
The hull The kit can be built as a waterline model or with a full hull. I prefer the latter, putting the ship on a stand, so I must take on the task of concealing the joint between the upper and lower hull. Before the two hull parts could be joined, I had to clean up their edges with a saw, 1. Then I reinforced the hull with plastic-card stock so it would stand securely on its brass posts, 2. As usual with a resin hull, there was warpage. But tape and strong clamps straightened it, 3. I used two-part epoxy glue for all major joins. I covered the seam with Milliput and sanded it flush, 4. To further conceal flaws, I applied a thick layer of Mr. Surfacer, sanded it flush, then repeated the process. I did not achieve perfection, but I was able to hide minor flaws with weathering at the waterline.
The waterline seam is covered with Milliput and waiting to be sanded. Thankless work!
Note: Wet-sanding is recommended for resin, as the dust is highly irritating and should not be inhaled. Hull plates were prominent on the Seydlitz. I replicated them by gluing styrene strips, cut from .1mm Tamiya Pla-Paper, to the hull sides with ethyl acetate (which acts like liquid cement for polystyrene), 5. The discovery that this could be used to glue polystyrene to resin made detailing the model much easier. (I wouldn’t use it for any joint that is subject to stress, though.) With patience and some gentle stretching, the Pla-Paper strips can be made to follow the hull’s compound curves. Then I added “eyebrows” made from thin copper wire to all portholes, 6. I rolled the wire around a pin and cut the resulting spiral into rings, each of which I cut into three segments. These were attached with diluted white glue. White glue, unlike super
glue, gives you time to position the parts, then shrinks into invisibility as it dries. Again, it’s not the best glue to use for joints under stress.
Torpedo net Warships of Seydlitz’s era were fitted with torpedo nets that hung from booms to protect the ship at anchor. They turned out to be more of a hassle than a help. For a short while during the Battle of Jutland, the German battlecruisers actually took the terrible risk of lying still while their crews frantically cut away damaged nets that were hanging over the sides of the ships, threatening to foul the propellers. The kit’s instructions say nothing about how the nets should be fitted and rigged, but there are markings in the hull sides for the booms and photo-etched (PE) parts for their platforms. www.FineScale.com
Tamiya Pla-Paper strips Net platform
Hull plating raises the detailing level and brings out the beautiful lines of the ship, too.
Eyebrows and hatches for the portholes further enhance the detail. Also visible is the torpedo-net platform.
A flexible steel straightedge, securely taped to the hull, served as a guide for scribing a locating groove for the torpedo net platform.
Winding copper wire in three steps creates an attachment point for the booms.
I made eyelets for the boom lifts by winding the wire once around a piece of .2mm music wire, then twice around the boom.
The attachments were super glued. Then excess wire was cut off.
I pulled the music wire away, leaving eyelets for the net attachment.
To install the platform that you see in Photo 6, I used a steel ruler as a guide and scribed a locating groove into the hull’s side, 7. How the nets were rigged was hard to determine. After studying all my references,
including photos I took of models at the Deutsches Marinemuseum in Wilhelmshaven, Germany, I concluded that the torpedo-net rigging differed from ship to ship. I did find some common features, though, and was able to come up with something
that was sufficiently convincing. First, I cut booms from .5mm piano wire. Next, I made attachment points from copper wire, 8, and eyelets for the boom lifts, 9, 10, 11. Then I dry-fitted the boom arrangement, 12.
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Dry-fitting a torpedo-net boom: The lift goes through a .3mm hole carefully drilled through the brass platform.
The teak deck of the minesweeper Weilheim in the Deutsches Marinemuseum in Wilhelmshaven is weathered to an exemplary gray.
After the masking was removed, the color contrasts looked too stark.
Thin mists of the base color softened the contrasts. Later, black washes brought out detail.
Hull sides, Round 1: a mottled pattern of light gray over a Citadel chaos black prime coat.
Round 2: A mist of light gray overall.
Round 3: Discoloring along the waterline is depicted with light brown.
The effect is softened with a thin layer of light gray. Later, surface detail was brought out with black washes and dry-brushing with a lighter gray.
The first round of masking individual planks; the following two rounds were easier, as the pattern had already been laid out.
Walking the planks Teak decks subjected to seawater, rain, and sun quickly turn gray, 13. Pictures show Seydlitz’s decks to be rather dark, probably because she was coal-fired; coaling a ship is dirty work. Accordingly, I mixed a dark brown gray as a base color and sprayed it over the main and foredeck. Then I masked about 1⁄4 of the deck planks with tiny strips of tape, 14, and sprayed the base color with some brown mixed in. After another round of masking deck planks, I sprayed the decks with a grayer tone of the base color, masked planks
again, and sprayed the decks with the base color lightened by some white. Removing all the tiny masking strips revealed contrasts between the colors that were a bit too strong, 15. So, I sprayed the decks with a mist of the base color. Last, I sprayed a browner tone along the edges of the deck houses, hatches, etc., places where the decks would have less wear, 16.
Hull sides After priming the hull with Citadel Chaos black and letting it dry, I sprayed a meandering pattern of light gray, 17, followed by
a mist of the same color, 18. Ships’ sides are often bleached and dirty just above the waterline, so I sprayed some light brown on this area, 19. Another thin layer of gray evened out the contrasts, 20.
Superstructure The parts for the deck houses, funnels, etc., are well cast, but there is room for improvement. I replaced all platforms with .5mm styrene card, 21. Bulwarks on the cast platforms are incorrect; they were railings covered with canvas. I bent PE railings to shape and covered them with Deluxe www.FineScale.com
A replacement platform made from styrene card being dry-fitted. Note the repair to the funnel resin casting.
Ship’s rails were covered with Glue’n’ Glaze, seen here in different stages of drying; eventually it dries clear and can be painted.
The aft funnel is detailed with pipes and ladders. Note the thin strips of Pla-Paper replicating plates on the deck house.
Diluted white glue stabilized the yarn and eliminated fuzz.
Alligator clamps served as weights to straighten the gluesoaked yarn.
Rigging the booms: After the lifts had been stretched, they were held fast with pieces of tape, then secured with tiny drops of super glue at all points of contact before I cut away the excess. Note the grimy streak along the waterline.
Lashing: Fly-tying line is threaded in a sewing needle and secured with super glue for easier knotting. A large pin holds the knot in place.
Now the nets are fitted; more lines would be added later.
Punched styrene discs help hold the upper and lower masts together.
Materials Glue ’n’ Glaze, 22; it’s made to model clear windows, but when painted it looks like stretched canvas. I drilled out the funnels and fitted them with pipes made from thin metal tubing from Albion Alloys, 23. There is no mention of these pipes in the instructions, but there are guiding marks for them on the parts. I painted the superstructure the same way as the hull, then brought out details using thin black washes and dry-brushing with lighter shades of the basic colors.
of Berlin’s sewing supply stores to find a suitable yarn. I dipped lengths of the yarn in diluted white glue, 24, and hung them up to dry, 25. I made six of them to allow room for failure. While the yarn was drying, I glued the booms and their tackle in place, 26, grateful that I had test-fitted these parts before painting the hull. I painted the dried yarn dark gray and spiced it up with rust brown before the tedium of tying their lashings began, 27. In reality they were held with chains, but since there are no chains thin enough for this job I did it with fly-tying line. Lashings done, I glued the nets in place
with diluted white glue, 28. I had succeeded on the first try! That was the greatest surprise of this build.
Lashing the nets The greatest challenge of this build was making torpedo nets. It started with a tour 24 FineScale Modeler March 2017
Raising the masts The kit provides no parts for masts and yardarms. That is just as well, since plastic or resin spars bend under the strain of the rigging. The instructions give measurements of all the major spars, but not the smaller ones. This is where you must go deep into your references to figure out how the ship was rigged. Complicating matters, the rigging was changed several times during Seydlitz’s career. So, rigging model ships of this period is often a case of making edu-
Mast-building jig: The mast rests in a shallow groove. Lines perpendicular to the groove help adjusting the yardarms. Everything is tacked down with small pieces of tape while the super glue cures.
The finished masts before painting: Except for the crow’s nest, the foremast and mainmast were almost identical.
Dying transparent line with a marking pen: The line can be straightened by hanging it up with a weight at the lower end.
Rigging is attached with white glue when time is needed for adjustments, and with super glue where strength is essential.
Painted plank patterns
Fly-tying line for rigging Superdetailed funnels
Scratchbuilt torpedo nets
Weathering masks the hull seam
SMS Seydlitz served with distinction in World War I, only to be scuttled at Scapa Flow — an ignominious end to a courageous career on the high seas.
cated guesses based on hazy and sometimes conflicting pictures as well as general knowledge of how a ship’s rigging works and looks. I made the masts and yardarms from piano wire, sometimes beefed up with steel tubing, 29. I punched out the tops from .5mm PVC and glued the masts and yardarms together in a jig I made for this purpose, 30, 31.
Rigging the outcome For rigging thread, I use two gauges of flytying line. You can tint transparent line
with a marker, 32. I attach it with super glue or diluted white glue, depending on whether the thread is under stress or if I need time to adjust it. Mild heat, such as the glowing ember of a matchhead, will tighten the line, 33. With the rigging done I mounted the main deck railings with diluted white glue. I used IJN railings from Gold Medal Models, which look similar to the chain rails that were used by the Hochseeflotte. Only then did I glue the artillery, rangefinders, searchlights, and other pieces of equipment in place.
I sprayed the entire model with semigloss varnish to conceal glue stains. The finishing touch was to make all the surfaces come alive by working them with different mixes of flat and glossy clear. The wooden decks and area along the waterline got the flattest finish; the hull below the waterline got the glossiest. So there she is, the SMS Seydlitz, a tough and proud battlecruiser that distinguished herself in several major naval battles of WWI. Now I’m eagerly awaiting more 1/350 scale kits of German WWI warships. FSM www.FineScale.com
Catch a neon
Extra detail and sharp painting for Hasegawa’s 1/72 scale F11F-1 BY FRANK CUDEN
or two decades, Grumman’s feline fighters dominated U.S. carrier decks. The line that began with the Wildcat culminated in the F11F Tiger in the mid-1950s. (The ultimate Grumman naval fighter, the Tomcat, entered service several years after the Tiger was dismissed.) Hasegawa’s 1/72 scale F11F, which has been around since the early 1980s, is widely considered to be the best Tiger. The initial release featured the later long-nose variant, but some subsequent kits contain a resin nose to backdate the fighter to the early version. I built one of those with cockpit and wheel-well details from Obscureco (No. 72026), then finished it as a trainer with high-visibility patches.
Despite never being used in combat, one F11F was shot down — by itself. On Sept. 21, 1956, Grumman test pilot Tom Attridge fired a burst from his Tiger’s 20mm cannon during a dive. Three of the shells struck the plane as their trajectory deteriorated. The damage forced Attridge to crash land, but he survived. – www.aerofiles.com
26 FineScale Modeler March 2017
1 Hasegawa provides clear instructions to remove the nose from the fuselage halves for the resin replacement. I installed Obscureco’s resin cockpit and gear bay details before joining the body.
3 While drilling out the resin nose to add weight, I inadvertently punched through the skin. I fixed the problem with Kiss acrylic liquid and powder, used to repair damaged fingernails. Dip a small brush in the liquid, then immediately dip it in the powder and touch it to the hole. The mixture can be sanded smooth in 15 minutes.
5 I applied more putty to the nose and tail joins.
2 Straight leading edges mark early Tigers. I carefully separated the leading-edge extensions with a saw, then reshaped the wing with sanding sticks.
4 Before attaching the nose, I added a styrene spacer to accommodate the Obscureco glare shield. Putty blended the intakes and fuselage.
6 After filling the pylon locators under the wings, I drilled smaller holes. Then I inserted styrene rod with a diameter just a hair narrower than the holes and trimmed them flush to replicate pylon plugs. www.FineScale.com
7 Here you can see the finished plugs. It’s my understanding that on the full-size Tiger, these allowed pylons to be added as needed.
9 Alclad II gray primer revealed problems and provided a smooth, uniform surface for paint. After vacuum-forming a new canopy, I masked the cockpit with the now-surplus kit part. Thin white glue held it in place and sealed gaps.
11 Concerned that the demarcation between the gray and white was too soft, I rolled Play-Doh into sausage masks to refine the lines. Holding the airbrush perpendicular to the surface produced tight but not hard edges. 28 FineScale Modeler March 2017
8 I glued the landing gear legs in place and covered a seam in the roof of the nose wheel bay with a thin strip of styrene. Strakes made from .010" styrene replaced the kit’s too-thick parts.
10 I airbrushed the basic U.S. Navy colors of white and light gull gray with Testors enamels. A layer of Testors neon orange lit up the tail.
12 Then I painted the wingtips, nose, and antiglare panel. A combination of raised and recessed panel lines exposes the kit’s age. I drew along both types with a pencil, using tape as a guide to minimize the differences and make both types appear uniform.
Most of the markings came from my spare decals, except for the Test Pilot School label; a generous friend sent them — modelers helping modelers. I used masking tape to align individual letters and digits on the vertical tail.
I applied ScaleMaster decal black stripes to the fuselage sides for the photographic reference lines used on this test aircraft as well as the markings in front of the antiglare panel. Airbrushed Floquil old silver (out of production) represented the metal leading edges.
Obscureco cockpit Play-Doh masked line
Penciled panel lines
Testors neon orange
ScaleMaster decal stripe
Alclad II jet exhaust
Floquil old silver
The canopy, landing gear, and gear-bay doors finished the build. I added light pastel streaking from the wing leading edges; a heavier streak emerges from a vent on the lower right fuselage. Medium gray pastels accented a few panel lines. I mixed Tamiya clear blue and lacquer thinner and lightly sprayed a few small streaks on the afterburner can to show heat effects; Alclad II jet exhaust colored the aft ring. FSM www.FineScale.com
HALFTRACK all the way
Added details make a 75mm Autocar Canadian /// BY STEVE GUTHRIE
he M3 GMC (Gun Motor Carriage) regiments in Sicily and Italy. The American was developed by the U.S. Army in 1941 heavyweights became known as the 75mm SP as a self-propelled antitank gun for use Autocar. by newly formed tank destroyer battalions. It feaWhen I bought Dragon’s M3 GMC (kit tured an M1897A4 75mm gun mounted on an No. 6467), I wanted to explore the wide range of Autocar M3 halftrack personnel carrier. First aftermarket goods that are made for it. A set used in the Philippines and North Africa, it was from Griffon Model (No. 35027) included chasquickly replaced by the fully tracked, more-sub- sis, cab, and 75mm gun details in photo-etched stantial M10 GMC. However, it continued with (PE) brass. From RB Model I bought a turnedthe U.S. Marine Corps in the Pacific, where it aluminum gun barrel (No. 35B92) as well as two was effective against Japanese tanks. sets of 75mm gun ammunition (No. 35P20). Most of the M3s still in the States were sent And to have something to show off with the back to the factory for conversion to M3A1 per- hood open, I got PlusModel’s U.S. halftrack sonnel carriers. The remainder of the unwanted engine (No. PL35151). It’s designed for a Tamiya M3s in North Africa were offered to the British halftrack kit, but it has everything an engine and Canadians, who used them in armored car needs — so I made it fit. 30 FineScale Modeler March 2017
If you want the hood open, you have to build a “toe box” for the driver’s feet. This protrudes into the engine compartment and provides a mount for the voltage regulator and radiator surge tank from the PlusModels engine kit.
Griffon Model’s PE set covered the cab interior with brassy details.
The front roller assembly features Griffon PE brackets and gussets, and hand-wound steel wire for springs to go with the gray kit parts.
The PlusModel resin engine is too tall and too long for this kit; it would not fit under the hood or line up with the radiator shroud. I sawed off the oil pan and about 1mm off the block, then carved the rear of the block for a snug fit.
Cab sides: On the right, the mount for a jerry can is faired over and a cut made for the hood to be opened.
I made a distributor from styrene and plumbed the engine with lead wire of varying thicknesses. The fan belt is painted tape.
I painted the engine block a dull blue-gray; other parts are painted black or gunmetal for contrast.
Griffon supplies PE jerry can trays that I made up and glued into place. I substituted Ultracast resin Commonwealth jerry cans (No.135015) for the kit parts and strapped them in with lead strips and PE buckles.
Sources Chassis and cab PE, Griffon Model, www.griffonmodel.com Turned-aluminum gun barrel, RB Model, www.rbmodel.com Resin and PE details, PlusModel, www.PlusModel.cz
Dry transfers, Archer Fine Transfers, www.archertransfers.com Dry transfer lettering, Woodland Scenics, woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com Commonwealth-style jerry can, Ultracast, www.ultracast.ca
Though Griffon supplied a PE instrument panel, I used the kit part. However, I did add Archer Fine Transfer instrument faces and warning placards (No. AR35230, top).
The RB Model turned-aluminum barrel represented a marked improvement from the kit-supplied part (top).
The aluminum barrel comes with PE parts to attach the barrel to the slide, but I simply cut the molded mounts from the kit parts and used them instead. You must also attach the kit’s breech to the aluminum tube and fill gaps and seams.
Griffon PE replaces several parts on the gun and carriage, including the mount for the perforated recoil shield. However, I used kit parts for the mount — much more secure.
I modified the 75mm “ready round” rack by drilling out some of the tubes to represent empties. Then I installed the entire rack/gun mount and painted the bases of the remaining rounds with brass enamel; the front part of the shells are painted olive drab with fuses detailed with gunmetal.
Tarps on the front fenders are made from Milliput epoxy putty with lead-foil strips for retaining straps. The open hood sections are .015" sheet styrene that I dressed up with PE handles and clips.
Dry transfer Resin jerry can Kit decal PE light guards
PE roller details
First, Tamiya olive drab (XF-62) lightened with dark yellow (XF-60); then, a mist of olive drab/ plus Vallejo olive gray and Testors Model Master olive drab. Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish provided a smooth bed for decals and dry transfers. I weathered with a black artist’s oil pinwash and dry-brushing. (For a dry-brush shade, mix in a bit of white artist’s oil paint.) The final weathering is a thin layer of powdered pigment. FSM 32 FineScale Modeler March 2017
Make time for a
Turbo Tracker Converting a venerable kit to the later Grumman S-2T /// BY RICARDO DACOBA
Introduced in 1952, the Grumman Tracker had a long career even before 15 former U.S. Navy planes served Comando de Aviación Naval Argentina (COAN). Multiple modifications converted it to the S-2T turboprop.
he late 1980s brought an arduous program of update and modernization to the 2nd Escuadrilla Aeronaval Antisubmarina (Naval Antisubmarine Squadron EA2S) of Comando de Aviación Naval Argentina (Argentine naval aviation, the flying branch of the Argentine navy). For EA2S’s Grumman S-2 Trackers, the most visible differences were the engines and underwing features. The original piston engines were replaced by turboprops; underwing reinforcements enabled the plane to carry antisubmarine torpedoes. At the same time, electronic systems and sensors were modernized and the landing gear was strengthened. I based my project on a Revell boxing (No. 04629) of the Hasegawa kit. The molding has raised panel lines and lessthan-exquisite details. Just three sprues, including a small one for clear parts, comprise all the pieces in the kit. Still, it was an excellent base for my Turbo Tracker. My idea was to make a master conversion set, using those pieces to make RTV molds for resin castings.
Dec. 4, 1952 First flight of Grumman Tracker
Aug. 29, 1976 Last Tracker in U.S. Navy service
1 The S-2T is 1.5' longer than its predecessor. I joined the fuselage, sawed a panel line behind the cockpit, filed it smooth, and extended it with epoxy putty that I filed and sanded to accept the cockpit bulkhead.
4 Short of space in my display cabinet, I folded the wings of my Turbo Tracker. After cutting each wing, I made “plugs” with epoxy putty shaped to fill the openings. Detail begins with brass wire bordering these …
7 The engines were the most complex part of the build. The only parts of the kit retained were the openings for the main gear bays.
10 I turned new prop spinners on a Unimat 1 hobby mill/lathe.
34 FineScale Modeler March 2017
2 The nose is different, too. I cut off the original and used industrial sculpting wax and some plastic bits to shape a new one. I used the new nose to make an RTV mold, then cast the nose in resin.
5 … and continues with countless minuscule pieces of plastic, aluminum, and copper.
8 I eliminated sections that were integral to the original radial engines and the back section of the gear bays.
11 I sculpted a propeller blade that I used as a master to cast nine copies in resin.
3 At the fuselage tail, the arresting-hook bay lacked detail. I detailed the kit part with styrene to make a master part and cast that in resin, too.
6 Unlike earlier versions (and the Revell kit), the Turbo Tracker should have rounded wingtips. I made masters and later cast them in resin.
9 New nacelle parts were made with industrial wax, filed to shape. These parts were used to make RTV molds and resin castings.
12 Aft on the engine bays are the sonobuoy dispensers. I formed these from industrial wax and resin-cast them.
Prop spinners Cockpit bulkhead Exhaust Nose
Nose-gear bay Wingtips
Arresting hook, bay
In summary: Here’s a look at the parts I cast in resin. They are attached to the plastic model with super glue and smoothed in with great quantities of epoxy putty.
After the major modifications, I made several small pieces to add what the kit lacked in antennas, sensors, pylon supports, etc. Note that I have been rescribing panel lines.
Airbrushing Humbrol enamels, I painted upper surfaces dark gray (FS26176) and lower surfaces light gray (FS26307). I used 3M blue painter’s tape for masking to provide a hard-edged demarcation.
On the wing underside, panel lines are marked with brown pencil for a lighter contrast; topside, I used a black pencil on the darker color.
Light blue and white on the tail represents Argentina’s flag; markings are a mix of several Argentine aircraft decals. A coat of acrylic semigloss clear unified the finish on this most uncommon airplane. FSM www.FineScale.com
▲ GARRICK BALIARIS
PEARL CITY, HAWAII Caracal decals marked Garrick’s 1/48 scale Tamiya F-15C as one of the Hawaiian Air National Guard, stationed 20 minutes away from his home.
◀ SEAN PEARSON
ALLENTOWN, PENNSYLVANIA Without the benefit of an aftermarket set, Sean set out to leave the doors ajar and scratchbuild an interior for his Trumpeter 1/35 scale M1117 using sheet styrene and Eduard photo-etched diamond-plate flooring. He used thin wire and solder for electrical lines and thermoformed a steering wheel with styrene tube. Parts from Sean’s spares and a basket built from styrene rod helped detail the turret. The antiIED antennas are from Voyager.
▶ GRANT DALZELL
COOMINYA, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA Modeling an old, retired aircraft was Grant’s aim with Trumpeter’s 1/32 scale MiG-17PF. He added Techmod decals for Polish markings and painted with Tamiya, Akan, and Vallejo acrylics. Tamiya clear yellow added wear to the canopy; AK Interactive and Flory washes further aged the fighter.
36 FineScale Modeler March 2017
MICHAEL HUNT KURUNJANG, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA Michael enlivened Tamiya’s 1/350 scale USS Enterprise (CVN-65) with myriad modifications, including a scratchbuilt hangar deck and new sponsons and Phalanx decks. He didn’t stop there, though — he added a bevy of aircraft, 80 or so on deck, more in the hangar deck, and a few more in the air. And there are more than 200 scale figures aboard!
◀ KAYHAN KAYAR
LENZBURG, AARGAU, SWITZERLAND “All painting and weathering has been achieved with Vallejo Model Air colors and Vallejo pigments,” says Kayhan. “I do not use oil colors or enamel-based weathering effects.” He built the MiniArt 1/35 scale Russian T-70 light tank with Aber photo-etched details.
▲ JOHN CARR SR.
SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA Originally a plastic modeler, John switched to wood and is now a shipwright — except when he builds aircraft, like Model Airways’ 1/16 scale Sopwith Camel.
▲ PETE BAVE
WEST JORDAN, UTAH Descended from the B-29 Superfortress, the Boeing 377 Stratocruiser was the long-range luxury liner of its short-lived time, entering service in 1949 and making its last airline flight for Pan Am in 1960. Pete posed his 1/72 scale Minicraft build with model railroad buildings from Plasticville in the background. 38 FineScale Modeler March 2017
▲ BERNARD SZUKIEL
OSTROŁĘKA, POLAND Rising to the top ranks in our Star Wars photo gallery last summer (July 2016 FSM) with his amazing Millennium Falcon, Bernard had this one up his sleeve, too — a 1/30 scale AT-AT he scratchbuilt from cardboard to depict an abandoned, burned-out wreck.
SEND US YOUR PICTURES!
▲ BRADLEY JONES
TAMPA, FLORIDA Having built Raccoon Models’ 1/72 scale X-8 Aerobee Hi, Bradley needed a trailer — so he made one of his own, scaling down plans from Revell’s 1/40 scale Aerobee. He also photo-etched fins and printed his own decals for the research rocket.
Shouldn’t your model be in Reader Gallery? FineScale Modeler is always accepting new material from around the world. Upload high-resolution digital images (preferably unedited, RAW format) with complete captions at www.Contribute.Kalmbach.com, or burn it all on a disc and mail it to FineScale Modeler, Reader Gallery, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Be sure to tell us the kit manufacturer, model, scale, modifications, paint and finishes used, and reason for choosing the model, along with your name and address. We look forward to seeing your work!
Adding color to
ISRAELI ARMOR Layers and layers of paint build up Academy’s 1/35 scale main battle tank BY KAREL SUTT
he Merkava Mk.IV’s turret shape reminds me of a floating manta ray. Such a unique design was hard for an AFV lover like me to resist. While I had to scratchbuild the protective balls and chains, most of my time was spent weathering. I wanted to create a roughed-up beast, complete with wear, tear, chips, and washes. Highlighting all the details was well worth the effort. 40 FineScale Modeler March 2017
About Karel Sutt “I started modeling as a youngster, building mostly 1/72 scale WWII aircraft. Since then I’ve built everything, including several stone castles for my garden. Now I focus mostly on WWII German armor, with a few modern tanks now and then — like this Merkava! When I’m not modeling, I manage a power plant. I live in Louny, Czech Republic, with my wife, Hana, and tomcat, Gami.”
1 I bought the chain from a bead shop; the balls are individual links from the adjustable chain on a set of dog tags. I put them together with super glue. New railing made of wire was added around the basket.
3 Metal netting replaced the Merkava’s plastic engine covers ...
5 I made the tactical marking panels out of bent copper wire and aluminum foil. These were attached to three sides of the turret basket.
7 I airbrushed a 9:1 mix of NATO black (XF-69) and gunmetal (X-10).
2 The texture of the nonskid surfaces seemed understated. I found the solution in my kitchen: semi-coarse flour. I glued the granules down and swept the surplus away with a soft brush.
4 ... and ventilation hole covers.
6 Time to airbrush! All colors came from the Tamiya acrylic line. First I applied Mr. Surfacer 1000 to prime the entire tank.
8 I airbrushed metallic gray (XF-56) everywhere but the nonskid surface. www.FineScale.com
9 Hairspray then covered the metal color. After letting that dry for 24 hours, I airbrushed a 1:9 mix of flat yellow (XF-3) and flat red (XF-7), again avoiding the nonskid.
10 A stiff, wide brush dipped in water gently removed the red and revealed metallic paint in small areas. Over this I sprayed gloss varnish as a protective layer to preserve the bared-metal effect.
When the varnish dried, I applied more hairspray and then an 8:5:5:5 mix of olive drab (XF-62), deck tan (XF-78), khaki drab (XF-51), and neutral gray (XF-53) as a base coat under the camouflage. This new layer was brushed away lightly in areas to reveal red primer.
A close-up of the metal and the red primer exposed beneath the camo base coat.
A 1:1 mix of buff (XF-57) and medium gray (XF-20) with a drop of khaki (XF-49) created the final camo coat.
Here you can see how using the hairspray method after each new color revealed multiple layers. Before starting the weathering process, I sprayed a coat of varnish over the entire model.
42 FineScale Modeler March 2017
Friulmodel tracks were colored with a 9:5:5 mix of flat black, flat brown, and metallic gray, followed with AK Interactive NATO filter and rust streaks, then speckled with gray dots.
By adding either a drop of buff to lighten or a drop of khaki to darken the camo mix, I could create highlights and shadows. This is where references came in handy. I then applied two washes of green and brown artist’s oils diluted with Mig thinner.
Chipping effects were reserved for where the tank would come in contact with the rough terrain, namely on the front and back of the hull and the side skirts. I used a 000 brush to paint small, irregular spots of a 7:3 mix of deck tan and J.A. gray (XF-14). Inside of these, I painted a dark mix of 9:1 NATO black and metallic gray. Paints were diluted with Tamiya lacquer thinner.
After applying two filters of olive and green, I dabbed dot filters onto the vertical areas. A brush full of turpentine blended them.
Go to FineScale.com to see more images of the finished Merkava, the armored backbone of the Israel Defense Forces.
FSM CONTEST GALLERY
Star Trek To celebrate 50 years of Star Trek, we held a photo contest to find the best Trek builds in this quadrant of the galaxy. Out of more than 100 entries, here are the 12 best models, comprising readers’ choices and editors’ picks. These modelers did, in fact, make it so.
See all of the contest entries View more Star Trek creations online at FineScale.com/OnlineExtras.
PETER BROWN WEST WICKHAM, KENT, ENGLAND
To depict Capt. Picard’s abduction by the Borg, Peter used an early ’90s GEOmetric vinyl kit with Patrick Stewart’s likeness and good detail. He weighted the model with plaster in the legs and finished it in Vallejo acrylics and Citadel metallic paints. 44 FineScale Modeler March 2017
▲ GINO DYKSTRA
BEAVERTON, OREGON While it only took him a month, Gino says most of his time was spent masking this 1/420 scale AMT kit. With the help of Photoshop he was able to show the USS Defiant in its natural environment. Turns out FSM is not the only fan of Gino’s models — Star Trek actors Majel Barrett and William Shatner have both owned his creations.
◀ MIKE WALSTON
SARASOTA, FLORIDA Mike scratchbuilt his 1/1000 scale orbital dry dock with 1⁄16" plastic stock, 114 engraved aluminum plates, and 27 LEDs. The Polar Lights refit Enterprise was built mostly out of the box but with metal strips inside the rear of the saucer. These hold onto a removable magnetic mooring mast fitted to the dock’s ceiling. www.FineScale.com
FSM CONTEST GALLERY
▲ KENNETH MINETTI
RONKONKOMA, NEW YORK This AMT 1/32 scale Enterprise bridge scene is actually built into the display base of Kenneth’s Polar Lights’ 1/350 scale original series Enterprise. Inside the custom wood enclosure is a scratchbuilt, lighted overhead ceiling ring. All of the lighting runs on an Arduino UNO controller.
▶ HENRY WONG
NEPEAN, ONTARIO, CANADA Henry says AMT’s 1/4000 scale Enterprise-C was a straightforward build, but that the time-consuming part was applying the Aztec paint scheme. He accomplished it with a great deal of masking and by mixing his own shades of blue. 46 FineScale Modeler March 2017
▲ MARK MYERS
CHERRY HILL, NEW JERSEY Mark wanted his 1/350 scale original series Enterprise to reflect the 11' model used during the production of the show. He filled in the grid lines and sanded them smooth before applying Testors Model Master and Tamiya paints. The internal lighting in each dome features five amber lights. Smaller LEDs throughout the ship turn on and off at random.
◀ JEFF POLLIZZOTTO
LEVITTOWN, NEW YORK Jeff built this Klingon Vor’chaclass attack cruiser out of the box and gave it a custom paint job with an airbrush. Instead of using LEDs, he put Bare-Metal Foil behind all the clear parts to give the ship an illuminated look. ▶ JAMES FROST
OSHAWA, ONTARIO, CANADA To complete his 24" paper model, James printed out 35 pages worth of parts and used pictures of the studio model as references. The 1/1000 scale Enterprise-E’s skin is made of 110-pound card and the superstructure out of 1mm to 3mm heavy card. The project took three months.
FSM CONTEST GALLERY
ROB BENEVIDES BROOKLYN, NEW YORK Building a 1/4 scale model of the Gorn captain created by sculptor Tony Cipriano, Rob finished it with Ammo of Mig Jimenez paints. He created the outfit and eyes using colored glitter and finished the base with a mix of sand and glitter secured with Ammo Sand & Gravel glue.
48 FineScale Modeler March 2017
▲ BILL KRAUSE
SAGAMORE HILLS, OHIO Bill’s 1/350 scale scratchbuilt Sentinel-class cruiser has custom-designed 3-D printed nacelles that were molded and cast in resin along with transparent domes and side panels. These parts were mounted over a brass armature for alignment. The ship is powered externally through the main mount with cool-white LED strips for the cabin ports. Smaller LEDs light the strobe, navigation, anti-collision, hangar, fading beacons, and impulse effects. Each nacelle front dome also features custom-designed twin LED ring lights of different diameters, counter-rotating in red and yellow for a spinning effect.
▲ MARK LOGAN
La CROSSE, KANSAS To break up the monotone appearance of Polar Lights’ 1/350 scale Enterprise, Mark painted subtle panel effects. He installed an aftermarket lighting system, also from Polar Lights. The base was airbrushed to look like Earth.
▶ ANTHONY PUCCETTI
BARTONSVILLE, PENNSYLVANIA Appropriately titled “Abandoned,” Tony’s eerie diorama features the USS Ganges. AMT’s 1/72 scale Deep Space Nine Runabout Rio Grande kit was dirtied up with dark washes and left to rot in a desert setting. FSM www.FineScale.com
BUILDER BASICS By Aaron Skinner
Putty in your hands Gap fillers and how to use them
bviously kits consist of individual parts. But the object of finishing them is to make them look like a solid object. The best way to do that is to eliminate gaps between the pieces. Sanding will take care of minor problems. However, if the parts don’t quite meet or are mismatched, filler may be needed. Putties remain the go-to for this kind of work. But there are several types and they can be useful in different ways. Let’s look at three main types and how to use them.
Solvent-based putty Stinky and sticky, these putties contain organic solvents like toluene and acetone, 1. Like plastic cement these solvents can melt styrene, so they adhere well. They’ve been the gold standard for filling gaps pretty much since modeling became a serious hobby and are still widely available today. Most model or paint companies sell a version in a metal tube like toothpaste. (Don’t confuse them: Putty’s good for gaps in plastic, not for cavities in teeth!) Before using solvent putties, especially if they’ve been sitting around, massage the tube to mix the chemicals, which can separate as paint does, 2. Squeeze some of the putty onto a scrap of styrene or a glass palette, 3. Replace the lid immediately after, wiping putty from the opening; dry putty can prevent the lid from closing properly allowing the tube’s contents to dry prematurely, 4. 50 FineScale Modeler March 2017
Apply the putty to the seam to be filled with a flat object, 5. Apply more than is needed to fill the gap, as most solvent-based fillers shrink as they dry, 6. You can minimize sanding by scraping some of the excess away while the putty is wet. But leave some on either side and never scrape it flush, 7. Most solvent-based putty requires several hours to set hard in preparation for sanding; I usually leave it overnight. The major difference between brands is the size of the particles in the putty. Larger grit won’t sand as smooth, whereas finer ones easily feather at the edges. Use care when working with solventbased putties. The fumes can be harmful if inhaled, and the products are flammable. Always use them in a well-ventilated space away from flames. Also, wear gloves to avoid skin contact with the chemicals. Before the putty dries, clean tools with lacquer thinner.
Water-based putties A recent addition to the modeler’s gap-filling arsenal is water-based putty, 8. Unlike their solvent-based cousins, these putties have little odor, can be handled with fewer precautions, and rarely need mixing before use. The consistency of toothpaste, 9, they apply in much the same way as others. But there is no need to apply excess; they don’t shrink as they dry. You can use a flat tool to spoon them over a gap. Or, because of the thin consistency, you can squeeze them directly into a seam, 10. Excess can be removed with a wet finger or cotton swab, which makes water-based putties useful for seams like wing roots. After applying putty, run a damp (not wet) cotton swab along the seam, 11. Once the
1 Old-school putties, Squadron Green, Testors Contour, and Tamiya Basic Type are the standard fillers for most modeling applications.
4 Keep the nozzle clean to extend the life of the putty in the tube.
7 The edge of the stick is ideal for scraping excess putty from around the gap.
10 Low viscosity makes it possible to squeeze water-based putties through fine tips, so they can be applied directly to tight spots.
2 Just like paint that’s been sitting around for a while, the chemicals in solvent-based putties need to be mixed before use. Massage the tube to mix the ingredients.
5 I use disposable wooden coffee stirrers to apply putty.
8 Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty and Acrylicos Vallejo Plastic Putty are popular with modelers.
11 After applying Perfect Plastic Putty to the wing root of a Phantom, I remove the excess and smooth the finish with a damp cotton swab.
3 Tamiya’s basic putty is gray, which matches most plastic and is easy to hide under paint. Wildly divergent colors make it easy to see the filler on gray plastic.
6 Putty needs to get down into gaps to fill them, so I push it through with the stirrer.
9 Water-based putties are a little thinner than solvent-based fillers, and they don’t shrink as they dry.
12 Smooth join, no sanding! This is where waterbased putties truly excel.
Apoxie Sculpt provides plastic containers for each part. Avoid contaminating either container as you scoop them out.
Get the parts as equal as possible to ensure the epoxy putty sets properly.
Knead the components together until the color is uniform. Inadequately mixed putty won’t set.
I push the putty into a gap on a submarine hull, but the filler can be sculpted on creatures or clothing for figures.
A little water on a finger will smooth the surface of the putty and blend the edges into the surface.
Firm and sturdy, epoxy putty can be formed and holds its shape, making it ideal for grafting detail.
Extended drying times allow you to shape, carve, and sculpt epoxy putty on the model.
Solvent- and water-based putties can be easily sanded once dry. Epoxy putty is harder and takes more elbow grease to smooth.
Thin super glue dries as hard as plastic; I run a little over large areas of filler to seal the surface for painting.
putty dries, the result will be a perfectly filled and blended seam, 12. Water-based putties dry quickly; small amounts (as in a seam) can be sanded within an hour.
your hands clean, 15. If you choose not to wear them, wash your hands after mixing to minimize stickiness. Take a little of the putty and push it into the gap, 16. Epoxy putty adheres well enough, but it can be helpful to rough up the surfaces to ensure it stays put. Wet your finger to smooth and shape the putty, 17. It will take several hours to set, giving you plenty of working time. Epoxy putty works for standard gap-filling, but it comes into its own on figures where the ease of blending and sculpting can be used to replace or enhance organic detail. Epoxy putty is stiffer than either solvent- or water-based putties, so it’s the perfect choice for adding new parts such as an extended radome on an aircraft or a turret
bulge on a tank, 18. Wet a tool or toothpick to carve and shape the putty, 19.
Epoxy putties Developed for plumbing repairs, epoxy putties such as Milliput, Green Stuff, and Apoxie Sculpt, 13, comprise two parts that activate when combined. Take equal amounts of each part using a clean tool for each, 14; avoid contaminating one with the other and kicking off the reaction inside the container. Knead the parts together until the color is uniform — unlike a good steak or cake, you don’t want marbling! You don’t need to wear gloves for this process, but it will keep 52 FineScale Modeler March 2017
Sanding and painting Once putty is dry, it can be sanded smooth. Sand with the shape to properly blend the filler and plastic, 20. If shrinkage created a shortfall, add more putty, let it dry, and sand again. Wear a respirator and eye protection when sanding putty; the dust is an irritant. In most cases, putty mimics styrene and disappears under paint. But large fills may absorb paint differently. I seal these areas with a little super glue, then sand them smooth, 21. (By the way, super glue is a great filler in its own right — as we’ll see in an upcoming issue.) FSM
Going big on little Detailing a 1/72 scale Harley-Davidson WLA /// BY BART CUSUMANO
riends ask why I gravitated to 1/72 scale. Well … I can complete models in less time; the work is a bit more relaxing; and there’s a fascination with detail in something so small. So, I took a crack at the Harley-Davidson WLA from Academy’s 1/72 scale WWII Ground Vehicle Set No. 6 (kit No. 13408), using Eduard photo-etch (PE) that was designed for it (No. 22 121). Total accuracy in this scale is impossible, so I had to choose my details: spokes, drive chain, and certain wires and plumbing would not be feasible. But the PE helped. The hardest part was removing plastic without inflicting damage. Breaking a handlebar led to new ones made from brass rod, bent to shape with plastic rod for the handgrips. I drilled out each rod to slip over the brass handlebars and super glued the grips. Detailing proceeded from the inside out. Brass rod and copper wire represented fuel and brake lines, wires, and other elements. I used my Waldron subminiature punch and die to make an extension for the headlight. After painting the headlight interior with silver printer’s ink, I sanded and polished the end of a clear styrene sprue, cut it off, and glued it in place for a lens. Punched discs also formed the taillights, to which I glued PE faces. I removed the seat and detailed it with scraps of styrene rod and strip. To replicate the seat post, I drilled the seat and bike body and super glued brass wire to join them. The windshield is clear acetate from the Eduard set, with a PE part for the lower portion. I curved the acetate by wrapping it around a wood dowel and dipping it in scalding water for a few seconds. I curved the lower-portion PE to the windshield and joined them with Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish, then painted the upper trim. Handling this model without breakage was a challenge. I drilled a hole in the floor pan and mounted the bike on brass wire chucked into a pin vise. The rearview mirror got bent a few times but, remarkably, nothing more was broken. Airbrushing with Testors Model Master enamels, I pre-shaded with Italian dark brown (2111). A mist of green drab (1787) provided the first shade of olive drab. Another mist of olive drab (1711) from above produced highlights and depth. After a week of drying, a few coats of Testors Dullcote sealed it. I let that dry for another week. A precise pinwash of raw umber artist’s oils deepened recesses. I blended with a brush and clean thinner, working out from the wash border. A delicate dry-brushing of Humbrol dark earth matt enamel (29) provided a thin layer of dust. After another 24 hours for drying, I picked out details with lighter shades of the base color, various Humbrol and Testors colors, and metallic printer’s ink. I let it dry for 48 hours, then sealed with Dullcote. This tiny Harley may not be 100% accurate, but I’m happy with it — and isn’t that what it’s all about? FSM
Bart’s fascination with 1/72 scale pushes the limits of superdetailing. How much can you stow on a motorcycle that’s a smidge longer than 30mm (11⁄8")?
The dull green is kit plastic, but added details cover the Harley from the front fork to the rear rack. Punched styrene sheet and styrene rod are in white; brass and steel wire represent handlebars and plumbing; and Eduard photo-etch provides fine features in delicately thin, more-to-scale metal. www.FineScale.com
WORKBENCH REVIEWS FSM experts build and evaluate new kits
Takom’s King Tiger with all the fixin’s
he SdKfz 182 Tiger II, or King Tiger, needs no introduction; almost every model company has had a go at the ultimate German tank of World War II. Takom takes its swing at the famous behemoth and brings something great to the table: the first all-plastic kit to include a full interior and all of the engine components. A nice touch is the scale-thick exterior panels that mimic the King Tiger’s armor. That adds to the scale appearance of the fighting compartment and heft of the finished model, which is noticeably heavier than most plastic kits. The first thing I noticed on opening the box is the sheer number of parts; 17 full 54 FineScale Modeler March 2017
sprues’ worth. Some steps require parts from several sprues, so you may need extra room if you have a small workspace. I organized the sprues by standing them on end in the box in alphabetical order so I could easily find the parts. Overall, building Takom’s King Tiger feels more like building an airplane than a tank. The build is broken into subassemblies and I painted them as I went. Parts fit tight, which can complicate painting after assembly. The kit’s breakdown makes the complicated build user-friendly. I treated the build like a book. Each night I ended on a specific section as if it were a chapter. The full interior offers several options for display. I built mine so that parts of the
exterior can be removed to show the hull and turret interiors. The scale armor makes it possible to build a cutaway display with minimal work. The build went faster than I was expecting, aided by the terrific part fits. Many parts go together so tightly that they virtually click into place when properly aligned. The only things I needed to sand were the torsion bars. I painted them separately from the hull, and the layer of paint prevented a clean fit. A pin on the road-wheel arms aligns them for a level fit; removing the pins makes the suspension workable. The individual-link tracks went together OK but can’t be made workable. However,
several working Tiger II tracks are available from the aftermarket. The only error I noticed was an incorrectly molded commander’s hatch. The guard for the hinge is molded with the hatch arm and can’t be posed open accurately. A small modification should fix the problem, making it accurate for an open hatch. The kit makes good use of photo-etched (PE) brass, including the rear end of each of the 88mm rounds in the hull and turret. Painting and finishing went smoothly. The color callouts refer only to Ammo of Mig Jimenez, but the kit supplies four pages of paint references for the interior and exterior. The only trouble was painting
the ammo racks with the rounds molded in place. Paint the racks first, then the rounds. The decals — and there are a lot of them — went on great and laid down right away. The bulk of the decals is dedicated to the ammunition, including two for each round, and small details such as the first-aid kits. I spent nearly 90 enjoyable hours building and painting Takom’s King Tiger. Don’t be scared off by the high parts count; you don’t need to be a master to finish the model. Take your time and the big tank will be manageable if you already have a few kits under your belt. - Chris Cortez
Kit: No. 2047 Scale: 1/35 Mfg.: Takom, www.takom-world.com Price: $70 Comments: Injectionmolded, 1,024 parts (117 PE), decals Pros: Perfect fits; well-defined details; terrific color guides and instructions Cons: Paint callouts refer only to Ammo of Mig Jimenez; inaccurate commander’s hatch prevents it from being posed open
Meng Model T-72B3
he Soviet/Russian T-72 main battle tank is quickly approaching 50 years of service. Its longevity, much like the M1 Abrams, has been accomplished by several major updates in armor, armament, and electronics. The latest upgrade, the T-72B3, entered service in 2013; so far, more than 600 T-72s have been upgraded to the B3
version. The T-72B3 has seen action in Ukraine, where several were captured and used by Ukrainians. If you are a collector of Soviet/Russian armor models, you are in a golden age, with new kits released seemingly every month. Meng has expanded its modern Russian armor range with the addition of this T-72B3.
The dark green plastic moldings show excellent detail. A small photo-etch (PE) fret has screens for the engine deck and includes a metal wheel mask. Along with individual-link tracks, the kit includes a jig and tools to aid in their assembly. The mantlet cover is a one-piece vinyl molding that shows excellent surface detail. Also in vinyl are hoses for the external fuel tanks. Clear
Platz F-15J Eagle J-MSIP
latz’s new Japanese Eagle can be built in either the Multistage Improvement Program I or II configuration. There are markings for seven aircraft. Exquisitely molded light gray plastic parts feature recessed panel lines and outstanding surface details. Raised details on the side consoles and instrument panel highlight the cockpit. Decals are also provided for the panels, but no mention of them is made in the instructions. The five-piece ejection seat looks OK but would benefit from seat belts. The wellappointed electronics bay behind the seat will only be visible with the canopy posed open. The painting directions lack detail, and photos weren’t much help. I ended up referring to the instructions for a larger scale kit from another manufacturer. Pay close attention to the notes throughout the instructions, including 56 FineScale Modeler March 2017
some that are rather inconspicuous, for the differences between versions; there are holes to be opened and different parts. The upper and lower fuselage halves sandwich a full-length intake and exhaust. The intake’s sides were marred by odd globs that needed to be sanded off, and ejectorpin marks had to be filled. The trickiest part of the build was assembling the fuselage, which consists of upper and lower sections with separate sides. Once I had everything aligned, the parts fit pretty well. I tried several methods, dry-fitting parts, and found the sequence in the instructions worked best. You can pose the intake ramps raised or lowered, but the inserts to lower them (parts C21 and C22) leave unsightly gaps inside the intakes. Other options include posing the canopy open or closed and the air brake up or down. The kit reproduces the Eagle’s complex
engine nozzles beautifully. Each variable nozzle, modeled without the turkey-feather covers, comprises 21 parts, including separate actuator arms. Assembly was a little tedious, but the results were well worth it. The main wings mount to the fuselage with a kind of lap joint, and the seams follow panel lines. The sturdy joins were nearly perfect; I used just a touch of filler in a couple of spots along the bottom seam. The nose landing gear is molded as a single piece with separate wheel. The main gears are more intricate, with five pieces each and two-part wheels. The legs fit into the bays positively for good alignment and a stout assembly. On the other hand, the main gear doors lacked anchor points. So, I applied cement to the edges and held them in place with tape until the glue set. After painting, you can load your Eagle with a full complement of drop tanks and
parts are provided for the headlight, sensor lenses, periscopes, and windows. The instructions have good, large assembly drawings and excellent five-view color drawings for markings and painting. A small decal sheet provides markings for five vehicles, three in solid green and two with demonstration camouflages. Assembly begins with the hull. A jig is provided to hold the torsion bars in alignment while the glue sets. I added some small strips of styrene over the square ends of the torsion bars just to add a little security to the joints. The running gear attaches with vinyl keepers, so I left mine off until everything was painted. While the parts count is high, the tracks account for almost two thirds of the total. Despite the many parts, I found the tracks easy to clean up and assemble. After my first few sections, I could assemble a whole track sprue in about 20 minutes. Again, a jig and tool are provided for track assembly. Take care removing and cleaning the main track links (H1); they are very delicate at this stage, and you have only six spare links. However, once they are assembled the tracks are sturdy. I found the recommended 81 links fit perfectly. The upper hull went together quickly. Somehow I got the left side stowage bin (A6) misaligned and didn’t realize it until I
went to add the side skirts in final assembly. Luckily, I was able to pry it loose and reattach it correctly. I also suggest that you have the engine cover assembled before adding its hinges (parts Q48 and Q50). I had to tweak the hinges to get my engine cover to sit properly. It’s a little difficult to remove the vinyl fuel hose assembly from its sprue without leaving a stub or cutting into the hose. That said, it went on easier than I expected and really adds to the look of the model. I soaked the string for the tow cables in a diluted solution of white glue and let it dry while it was taut. This reduces fuzziness and makes it easier to cut the string to length and paint it while the line stays flexible. The most difficult assembly may be the turret because of the numerous small parts, some of them very small with delicate attachment points. The vinyl mantlet cover looks excellent once painted, but you can only pose the main gun in an elevated position. There were a few tiny gaps where it meets the turret, but I didn’t bother to fill them. The commander and gunner hatches can be posed open or closed. The main gun tube is molded in several parts; while there is no warping, you do have to deal with seams on the front and rear sections. I base-coated my T-72 with Tamiya olive green (XF-58). Then I added a little field gray (XF-65) to lighten and gray the base color; I also used that to highlight the
AAM-3 and AAM-4 missiles. I probably spent as much time applying decals as I did building the F-15; it took four full sessions to finish the task. Printed by Cartograf, the decals’ quality is impeccable. But some are really small, plus they are really tightly packed and somewhat randomly placed on the sheet. So, finding the one you’re looking for is like a game of “Where’s Waldo?” The model scales out well according to the dimensions given on Wikipedia, and the finished model looks nearly identical in
size to an older Hasegawa kit I have. I spent a little longer on this build, but the level of detail is quite a bit higher than most of my out-of-the-box builds. Some assembly is a little tricky, and some parts are tiny, so it’s probably a kit better left to someone with some experience. But I definitely recommend it for anyone at that skill level. It’s certainly the best 1/72 scale F-15 I’ve built, and quite possibly one of the best 1/72 scale kits I’ve ever built. – Mike Klessig
Kit: No. TS-028 Scale: 1/35 Mfg.: Meng, www.meng-model.com Price: $84.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 1,336 parts (6 PE, 358 vinyl connectors, 1 string), decals Pros: Clear parts for light, windows, periscopes, and sensors; nice individual-link tracks with vinyl keepers; vinyl for mantlet and fuel hoses Cons: Main gun can only be shown elevated
centers of panels and add modulation to the open areas. The decals settled into details with just a touch of Solvaset. Enamel washes added light weathering, and a pinwash brought out details. I spent about 28 hours building my T-72. The finished model matched dimensions I found on www.militarytoday.com. While it takes some experience with handling small parts, Meng’s kit is an excellent replica of this modernized T-72. It should find its way into any armor builder’s modern Russian collection. – John Plzak
Kit: No. AC-17 Scale: 1/72 Mfg.: Platz, www.platz-hobby.com Price: $59.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 219 parts, decals Pros: Excellent surface detail and fits; good cockpit and avionics bays Cons: Some fiddly assemblies
Roden Lockheed C-141B Starlifter
ike many modelers, I had been hoping for a kit of a C-141 in 1/144 scale to add to my evergrowing collection — and now Roden has released a new tooling of a C-141B! The eye-catching box art shows a Starlifter in its landing configuration. I was a little surprised by the low parts count when I opened the box (not that that’s a bad thing). Molded in medium gray plastic, the kit comprises only 62 parts. Surface detail is finely engraved and consistent. Engine detail consists of a tailpipe trapped between two halves which include the molded-on pylons and a separate intake piece. Each engine is molded on a separate sprue; on one of mine, the tailpipe was “short shot” and missing most inner detail.
Landing-gear struts are typical of the scale, but the gear-bay interiors lack any detail. The cockpit glass was molded with some of the fuselage to make it easier to attach and blend in. Due to the simplicity of the kit, construction was straightforward and fast. I added some lead fishing sinkers to the nose before closing the fuselage halves to make sure it would not be a tail-sitter. Overall, fit was really good. I did not have to use any filler, just a nail-polishing file to dress the seams. I did leave out the handful of fuselage portholes, preferring to use Micro Kristal Klear to make new windows when painting was complete. I used Tamiya spray-can gunship gray II for the exterior color; when that was dry, I over-
coated with GSI Creos Mr. Super Clear from the spray can for a gloss coat. Once the gloss coat was dry, I attached the landing gear and tires. I found the attachment for the main gear somewhat weak — just a butt joint at a right angle. Hopefully, it will hold the weight of the model. Only time will tell. Another issue was that the nose-gear wheel holes were too big for the pins on the gear. I had to use super glue with accelerator to get them attached and aligned. The decals are nicely printed, thin and in perfect register, although some of the colors seemed a little off. However, there are markings for only one aircraft. Decals applied over gloss coat silvered badly. I used a hair dryer on high to get them to settle
Revell Germany HMCS Snowberry
nsung heroes of World War II, Flower-class corvettes took the battle to German U-boats while escorting North Atlantic convoys. Based on a commercial whaling ship, the 205' vessels served in large numbers with British and Canadian navies. All of the parts are medium gray styrene except for a single clear sprue; a tiny card holds black thread for rigging and railings. The instruction book’s 101 steps feature a logical progression and clear drawings. I noticed one error: In Step 46, part G-453 should be E-453. The kit provides sharp decals for a single Canadian corvette, the HMCS Snowberry in 1943.
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Construction starts with the hull, which went together perfectly. The decks fit the hull with no need for filler. The deck’s locators were spot-on, but be careful not to sand off any of pins. Some fittings are extremely small, so take care not to lose them during construction. The railing was the most challenging part of the build, requiring patience and sanding for flush fits. In
Steps 25 and 26, glue the gun tub (G200) to the pedestal (F199), then attach the eight supports (T206). When you get to Step 65, make sure the ladder fits through the square opening in the deck (D104) before gluing. I used the kit-supplied thread to rig the mast and railings in steps 98-101, but I recommend replacing it with stretched sprue or fishing line. The thread is thick and difficult to work with. Painting was simplified because most of the parts are off-white. Pre-shading the hull highlighted detail of the hull plates and port holes.
Meng Hummer H1
Kit: No. 325 Scale: 1/144 Manufacturer: Roden, www.roden.eu Price: $31 Comments: Injectionmolded, 62 parts, decals Pros: Good fits; accurate instructions; low parts count creates easy build Cons: Soft plastic difficult to sand; no gear-bay detail; molding short shot rendered one tailpipe unusable; decals silvered; only one set of markings
into panel lines. (I have used this trick before on other Roden decals and it works.) I then over-coated the model with Testors Model Master clear flat. The Roden C-141B Starlifter was an enjoyable 15-hour build, and it scales out on the money. With its great fit, few parts, and monochromatic paint scheme, the model should appeal to builders at all skill levels. I cannot wait to see what Roden releases next in this scale. – Jon Hergenrother
I recommend the Snowberry for experienced modelers. The kit is jammed with uncommon details that make it a great showpiece. –Ted Horn
Kit: No. 05132 Scale: 1/144 Mfg.: Revell Germany, www.revell.de Price: $56.95 Comments: Injectionmolded, 501 parts, thread, decals Pros: A lot of detail; large scale looks great; oft-overlooked subject Cons: Thread difficult to work; plastic railings too thick
uring the mid-1990s, nothing said excess more than the fuelthirsty Hummer H1. Based on the military HMMVW, it boasted second-to-none off-road capabilities, high ground clearance, and aggressive approach and departure angles. There wasn’t much that could stop a Hummer. Arnold Schwarzenegger took notice and bought a fleet of them. Meng’s H1 is the first in 1/24 scale. The rather large box is filled with eight sprues; parts are crisp and clean with little flash. I noticed many ejector-pin marks, but most will be hidden. The body parts are molded in red plastic, which is kind of a bummer; they will need to be primed for any other color. The well-laid-out instructions are easy to follow, but there are a few errors. A brief history of the Hummer as well as a color guide is included. The build begins with the chassis and engine, and the detail really shines. The first 10 steps are a little busy, so be sure to follow them closely. The tires are outstanding, with no mold seams and proper B.F. Goodrich branding on the sidewalls. The interior looks good, too. The truck bed has ribs molded on, typical of soft-top Hummers. Most hardtops, as represented by the kit, had a carpeted bed, so I sanded it smooth. The instrument panel and seats look good, but the center bench is a rare option not seen on many Hummers. There were top-notch clear parts, but aligning the windshield assembly was challenging. Save the wipers until the end of the build to avoid losing them. Final assembly of the body and frame
was tricky. I could not get the rear portion of the hardtop to sit properly. It’s possible that I misaligned the windshield and that threw everything off. I clamped the top as well as the equally challenging hood to ensure a proper fit. I painted my Hummer with Tamiya spray cans. The kit’s few decals went on without issues. I spent 36 hours on my Hummer, about twice the time I usually spend on a car. But the complex kit has twice as many parts as most automobile kits. I am impressed with the kit and would build another with Meng‘s separate upgrade set (No. SPS-033). This is not an easy build, but anyone with a little modeling experience shouldn’t have any problems turning out a Hummer that the Governator would be proud of. – Chris Oglesby
Kit: No. CS-002 Scale: 1/24 Mfg.: Meng, www.meng-model.com Price: Comments: Injection-molded, 540 parts (11 PE, 4 vinyl), decals Pros: Detailed parts including engine and chassis; realistic tires with branding Cons: Most of the parts are molded in red plastic
IBG Models KTO Rosomak
he KTO Rosomaks are an 8-wheeled multipurpose family of vehicles similar to the German Boxer in operation with the Polish Army. The KTO stands for Kotowy Transporter Opancerzony, Polish for Wheeled Armored Carrier, and Rosomak means wolverine in Polish. This is a licensed-built version of the Finnish Patria Armored Modular Vehicle which has seen service in Chad and Afghanistan, where the Taliban nicknamed it the “Green Devil.” The originals, painted NATO green, were hard to knock out and had potent firepower. This is IBG Models’ first release in a series and features the 30mm ATK MK 44 chain gun. The model is molded in pale yellow plastic; a clear sprue includes lights, front light covers, and armored windows. Vision blocks are yellow. Two photo-etch (PE) frets are included with RPG mesh, hatch handles, and door hinges. The PE was hard to remove from the frets; I had to cut parts off the trees with new scissors. The level of detail is high, with all of the rivets and anti-slip strips faithfully reproduced. An engine, fairly complete hull interior, and turret basket are included, as is interior hatch detail, but there is no detail in the turret. Also, the gun is glued in place with no option to elevate. Fit is good and knockout marks are minimal, but assembly instructions are sketchy. If you’ve built an IBG kit before, you will be familiar with the directions: CAD drawings with exploded views and completed steps. But some parts are not numbered, wrongly numbered, just floating in air unattached, or not shown being assembled but appearing in a later step. However, with a little patience you can easily sort it out. I left the engine out since it can’t be seen 60 FineScale Modeler March 2017
once the hull is assembled. I found the suspension assembly frustrating. Directions say to assemble it entirely and glue it to the hull later. That’s logical for painting, but I had problems and found it easier to glue the transfer cases, drive shafts, and frame to the hull first, then glue the lower suspension arms to the hull and the shock absorbers to the frame. This ensures the suspension sits at the proper height. Then the rest of the suspension can be added to ensure everything sits straight. Parts A35 are curved, but the directions do not show which way they go. I did not glue them in place so I could rotate them later. Directions are vague as to how parts A25 and A26 attach to the upper and lower suspension arms. I made an educated guess. But when gluing the wheel parts together, be sure to follow the directions; the tread pattern is directional. There is a large seam running around the interior of each wheel that will interfere with gluing the outer wheel halves. Interior assembly had no surprises. I glued the chair frames (PE17 and PE18) to the inside of the hull instead of to the chairs, allowing the chairs to be painted separately. I also left the driver’s control panel for separate painting. The tops of the shock absorbers extend to the interior, interfering with some components, so they need to be removed. Exterior components can be added once the interior is painted and the upper and lower hull halves glued together. I removed some upper hull detail that was interfering with Part J7. Assembling the RPG screen was difficult, as the thin screens are hard to remove from the fret without damaging them. There’s not a lot of surface area to attach each screen. So, contrary to the directions, I
glued the screens to the fragile frames from the inside using copious amounts of super glue to attach them. The directions show only a sand-colored vehicle using Model Air, AK Interactive, and Hataka Hobby colors. I had Model Air 71.075 sand (ivory) but found it too light compared with Internet photos. So, I used Tamiya wooden deck tan (XF-78) to basecoat the model, then added Tamiya yellow (XF-3) and white (XF-2) to warm the tone. I finished with washes and filters. The directions mention no detail painting, so I resorted to photos for guidance. The decals showed no silvering but did not like to be moved. Make sure you put them where you want them the first time. The No.7 circle decal is too big to fit on the hull’s rear and needs a trim to fit. This is one big model, measuring more than 9" long and nearly 4" tall, almost as large as many main battle tanks. With painting the interior and complex suspension and RPG frames, this took 51 hours to complete. – Mike Scharf
Kit: No. 35032 Scale: 1/35 Mfg.: IBG Models, www.ibg.com.pl Price: $79.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 478 parts (24 PE), decals Pros: Excellent detail; engine and partial interior included Cons: Sketchy instructions; fragile parts; limited paint details
READER TIPS By Mark Savage
Making it muddy — simply! Need to create realistic mud to muddy up your latest armor project? Here’s my tip and it’s simple. Start with Squadron Green Putty, 1. Mix in paint until you reach the desired color, 2.
Mix thoroughly for an even color, 3. Use a beat-up paintbrush to apply the mixture to the model, 4. The nice thing about the Squadron putty is that it gives you about 15 minutes of work time, so you can go back with the brush and stipple the putty for Tie any type thread onto the parts tree you’ve painted and loop the thread around one ceiling fan blade. This keeps the parts tree up and out of the way of children or curious animals. Key point? Remember not to turn the fan on until you remove the parts trees from the blades. – Chris Williams Laguna, N.M.
High and dry To dry parts trees and to keep my animals from getting to them (they once ruined an entire model I had drying), I use one of my home’s ceiling fans. HAVE A TIP OR TECHNIQUE TO SHARE? Send a brief description along with a photo to [email protected] or visit FineScale. com and click on “Contact Us.” Tips are paid for upon publication; if you live in the U.S., we’ll need your Social Security number to pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the text and images upon payment.
Sittin’ gritty: Good scale sand For those who build dioramas or who build lifelike scenes as model displays, finding scale sand can be frustrating. I use two sources: sandblasting sand and eroded sandstone. Sandblasting sand is available from online sources in a number of grit grades. Based on your scale, you should be able to find the right sandblasting sand to meet your needs. Sandstone naturally erodes into incredibly fine sand. This can be found naturally in many locations. However, if you don’t have any handy, ask a modeling buddy (you
the desired clumped-up effect. Next, weather the mud on the model using the drier, lighter mud on top and the darker, wetter mud on the bottom, 5. That’s it! 6 – Richard Zolla Monson, Mass.
can find them on the FSM forum and other online spots) who has access to natural sandstone to harvest some for you. Then, all you have to do is screen out debris and you’re good to go. – Ned Barnett Las Vegas, Nev.
Let it shine, let it shine ... Looking to give your aircraft canopy or car windshield a little extra shine before taking it to the next show? Use a cotton swab to apply Turtle Wax Express Shine Carnauba Wax, which comes in a spray bottle, to the clear plastic. Then buff with a soft cloth. It’s safe for canopies dipped in Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish. – Kyle Hood Toronto, Ontario, Canada
QUESTIONS & ANSWERS By Mark Hembree
A paper sweep attached to a PVC-pipe frame makes a good backdrop.
Here, two 100-watt daylight-balanced bulbs in bell reflectors are clipped to chair backs.
Milk-jug bottoms taped to the lights and reflective surfaces on either side diffuse light to fill recesses and soften shadows.
Model photography made easy
I am an avid modeler, been at it for about two years, but I have never taken photos. How would I go about setting up lights and paper and other stuff ? Or should I hire somebody to take professional pictures? – Jacob Miller Manchester, Mich.
Getting someone to take the photos will produce results right away. This might be the best way to start. The photographer can show you what to do and what the essential points are. Once you are ready to give it a whirl, here are a couple of things for you to read: • www.finescale.com/how-to/tips/2016/07/photography-guide • www.finescale.com/how-to/articles/2008/05/how-to-photographyour-models-in-the-digital-age A digital camera with macro capability is good for model closeups. But lighting is the most important thing — the right lighting
Paint mapping revealed Q Sean Lynch’s otherwise excellent article on the M1 rebuild (September 2016 FSM) mentions “paint mapping” without explaining what it is, why you do it, or how you do it. I can’t even find an Internet article on it. – Ken Brown Ottawa, Ontario, Canada A Ken, yours is a fair question and not an easy one to answer. The term is used more frequently than it is defined or understood. (By the way, you’re right to point out that the term GOT A MODELING PROBLEM? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. E-mail [email protected], or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. We publish letters of general interest in the magazine; however, mail volume and space limitations prevent us from printing every question. Please include your name, town, state, and a daytime phone number.
62 FineScale Modeler March 2017
means color accuracy and depth of field (focus from front to back). If you don’t have lights of your own, you can get decent results just using daylight. An overcast day is best because you won’t have the harsh shadows of direct sunlight. But setting up your own lights indoors is not that difficult. You can get everything you need for a simple setup at a hardware store or home-improvement center. Watch our video at www.finescale. com/videos. A plain, featureless backdrop is best. You can use paper, cloth, even a bedsheet — as long as you iron the sheet!
should have been defined in our story.) Mapping is a term for which Mig Jimenez takes credit, though he is not the only practitioner. He says it comes from 3-D modeling on a computer as a way to add texture or definition to a selected area. Say you have an area — such as the glacis plate on a tank — on which you can use color to emphasize the shape of a vehicle. Now think of other panel- or area-differentiating techniques, such as clouding (a lighter shade in the central portion of a panel) or color modulation (lighter shades in areas that receive the most light from a zenithal source, darker in shadowy areas). These techniques mimic the play of light on an object. Now go further and consider chipping or staining — such as around the edge of a hatch, fuel stains on a deck, or water running down the sides. This is similar to mapping — you are defining an area with a concentrated color. After this accent color come thin filters, washes, and shading that blend the accent color with its surroundings. This makes the stain or worn spot more subtle — takes the edges off, you could say. So mapping, rather than emphasizing
specific details, defines or emphasizes larger areas or shapes. Mig shifts his analogy from 3-D CAD to talk about “continents” of emphasis in a sea of color, like on a map. You can find more by tracking down discussions with Mig Jimenez or Adam Wilder (also a master of this art). I hope that sheds some light on a term that, to me, remains fairly murky.
Brown water modeling Q In what issue was there a story on upgrading a Monogram Vietnam “rag boat” (River Assault Group)? – Ronnie Maifeld Denver, Iowa A You may be thinking of Hilber Graf’s article, “Building a Vietnam patrol boat in 1/48 scale,” which featured a patrol boat from Monogram’s “Rambo Attack Set.” That was in the March 1991 FSM. Also, we had a “History You Can Model” feature on these boats in the February 2000 FSM. Back issues are available at www.FineScale. com or by calling us at 800-533-6644 (for international calls, 813-910-3616). FSM
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COMING EVENTS FL, VENICE: Annual Model Contest & Show, IPMS/Wings, Wheels & Keels Model Club, at Woodmere Park Auditorium. Terriﬁc models and an outstanding rafﬂe! Saturday, March 25, 2017, 9:00am-3:00pm. Free Admission. For information contact John Cleary 941-807-0003 E-mail: [email protected] or Randy Whitacre 941-4565062. For vendor information contact John Cleary. GA, MARIETTA: 2017 AtlantaCon, Region 3 Model Show. IAMAW Local Lodge 709, 1032 South Marietta Parkway. Saturday, March 11, 2017, 9:00am-5:00pm. Admission $5.00/person, 12 and under free. $10.00 unlimited model entries. For more information go to http://ipms-atlanta.org or contact Bill Johnston at 678-308-7308 or [email protected] IL, WHEATON: 69th Illinois Plastic Kit & Toy Show. DuPage County Fairgrounds, 2015 W. Manchester Road., Zip: 60187. February 26, 20107, 9:00am-3:00pm. Adults $5.00, children under 12 years $2.00. 150 tables available. Buy/sell/trade or just browse. Cars, trucks, airplanes, trains, military, ﬁre, police, muscle cars, all scales. Relive your childhood memories. Past-Time Hobbies, Inc. 630-969-1847.
64 FineScale Modeler March 2017
We Buy Collections!
t'BY www.deanshobbystop.com [email protected] OH, WRIGHT-PATTERSON AFB. IPMS Region 4 2017 Convention hosted by Wright Field Scale Modelers. Hope Hotel and Conference Center. Just minutes from the National Museum of the US Air Force. April 7-8, 2017. Rafﬂe, Secial Awards, Huge Vendor Area, Seminars and more. Full details at www.wrightcon.com Contact: Brian Duddy, 937-331-8135 or [email protected] WI, MADISON Mad City Modelers 22nd Annual Model Show, Madison Labor Temple, 1602 S. Park Street. Saturday, March 4, 2017. 9am-4pm. Theme Award - Anything Tamiya. 57 Categories; 13 Best Awards; Huge General Rafﬂe + Grand Prize Rafﬂe. Food on site, vendors, and slideshow awards presentation. Info: Bill Wedeward (920) 478-8214; [email protected] or madcitymodelers.clubhosting.org CANADA, BRAMPTON, ONTARIO: Torcan 2017 Model Contest. Century Gardens Recreation Centre, 340 Vodden St. E. Saturday, May 6, 2017, 9:00am-5:00pm. General Admission $5.00, children 12 & under free. Contestant Admission: Adult $15.00 includes 3 models, $2.00 each additional entry. Junior $7.00 includes 3 models, $1.00 each additional entry. Hosted by Peel Scale Modelers. Visit www.TorcanModelShow.com or [email protected]
FOR SALE ATLANTIS MAIL ORDER HOBBY SUPPLY Deep Discounts on Thousands of New Kits. Send $2.95 for Catalog to: 9 Connor Lane, Unit-G, Deer Park, NY 11729, 631-499-6733 CANOPY MASKING AND MORE! WWW.EZMASKS. COM List $3.00. Chris Loney, 75 Golf Club Rd., Smiths Falls, ON, Canada K7A 4S5. 613-283-5206, [email protected] PLASTIC MODEL AIRPLANE COLLECTION. 30 year collection. 1/72, 1/48, and 1/32 scale. Call James at 682-234-7059 for price list. SHIP AND AIRCRAFT MODELS. Built for display. For additional information contact, Ray Guinta, PO Box 74, Leonia, NJ 07605. www.rayguinta.com THOUSANDS OF MODEL KITS for sale. All types from Old Aurora to new releases. Send a 70¢ SASE to: Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington, Owosso, MI 48867. Specify Military List. Phone: 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: [email protected]
"Your Spare Time is Our Business"
COLPAR’S HobbyTown USA PLANES • ARMOR • CARS • SHIPS • SCI-FI
We carry a huge inventory of plastic model kits from around the world! Full Line of Detailing Accessories. Airline models, Decals, Books, Promos, Die Cast Collectibles, Historical & RPG Games & Miniatures, Airbrushes & parts. Large Paint and Tool inventory. Full line R/C department. We ship worldwide.
www.colpar.com COLPAR’S HobbyTown USA To order call: 1-800-876-0414 1915 S. Havana St. For information: 303-341-0414 Aurora, Co 80014
WOODEN SHIP MODEL KITS BlueJacket Shipcrafters, America’s oldest wooden model maker has produced the ﬁnest ship model kits since 1905! With over 75 ship model kits from museum quality to kits for the beginner, we bring maritime history alive with exquisitely detailed model ships from the early days of sail, to square rigged and clipper ships, to the warriors of WWII, and the workhorses of the sea. Visit us at www.bluejacketinc. com to enter the world of wooden ship modeling.
WANTED A BIG BUYER OF AIRCRAFT, Armor, Sci-Fi, Resin, Hybrid or Plastic kits. We buy collections whether they are small or large- Worldwide as well. Call Don Black toll free 1-866-462-7277. Don Black, 119 Bernhurst Road, New Bern, NC 28560. E-mail [email protected] AIRCRAFT, ARMOR, SCI-FI, FIGURES, AUTO, ETC. Buying kit collections, large or small, worldwide. Top prices paid. Call Jim Banko 610-814-2784 or mail list to 122 Independence Ct., Bethlehem, PA 18020, fax 610-439-4141. E-mail: [email protected] I WANT TO BUY YOUR UNBUILT MODEL KITS. Any size collection. Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington St. Owosso, MI 48867. 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: [email protected] MODEL CAR AND TRUCK KITS. Unbuilt or built. Any size collection. Good prices paid. Please contact: Fred Sterns, 48 Standish, Buffalo, NY 14216. Phone: 716-838-6797. Fax: 716836-6057. E-mail: [email protected] YOU WILL NEVER FIND TIME TO BUILD ALL THOSE MODELS. Unbuilt kits, diecast aircraft, 1/18th scale model airplanes, military books. Milam Models, 519 DiLorenzo Dr., Naperville, IL 60565, Phone: 630-983-1407, [email protected]
MISCELLANEOUS 1ST AND ABSOLUTELY THE BEST MUSEUMQUALITY MODELS. IPMS Nationals winner building aircraft and armor to your speciﬁcation, including conversions and scratchbuilt. Call BC Models for quote and information at 913-385-9594 or visit www.bcmmodels.com FINESCALE MODELER AUTHOR and IPMS medalist will build your favorite aircraft, specializing in metal ﬁnishes. Contact John Adelmann at 563-556-7641 or [email protected]
Local Hobby Shop Directory Local Hobby Shop Directory listings are available for the next ten issues for $275 (payable in advance) or at $37 per issue (billed to established accounts for a minimum of ten insertions). Ads will be set in standard listing typography. All insertions must be consecutive and may be invoiced if you have credit established with us. No mention of mail order business permitted. For information call 1-888-558-1544, ext. 815. Closing dates listed in Classifieds section.
ALASKA • Anchorage
www.anchoragehouseofhobbies.com Alaska’s best hobby supplier since 1964. Two stories, 6,300sf, 1st floor all R/C, 2nd floor general hobbies, plastics, trains, slot cars, telescopes & more!
ANCHORAGE HOUSE OF HOBBIES
2803 Spenard Rd.
ARKANSAS • Jacksonville
Headquarters for scale hobbies. Models; N-HO-O trains; gaming; tools; paints, etc. Discounts & special orders. Open 10-6, closed Sundays and Wednesdays www.railandspruehobbies.com
RAIL & SPRUE HOBBIES
1200 John Harden Dr.
CALIFORNIA • Burbank
Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem Visit us in person or online www.houseofhobbies.com Secure online ordering
BURBANK’S HOUSE OF HOBBIES
911 S. Victory Blvd.
CALIFORNIA • Canoga Park
Kits, plastic & wood, Slot cars & toys. Rockets, paint, glue and tools. Trains from Z to O. Mon 10-5; Tue-Fri 10-7; Sat 10-5; Closed Sun & Big Holidays. www.scalemodelstuff.com
SCALE MODEL STUFF
7259 Canoga Avenue
CALIFORNIA • Garden Grove
Rewards program for 10% back on purchases. Plastic aircraft, armor, ships, cars, decals, books, paints, tools, miniatures war-games. Mon-Thur 11-8, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 10-midnight, Sun 11-7 www.brookhursthobbies.com
12188 Brookhurst St.
CALIFORNIA • Hollister
Model planes, car, ships & figures. Model train scales: Z, N, HO, O & G. Paints, tools. R/C & parts, incl. service. Craft & educational kits, supplies, products. Clinics available. Tu-Sat 11 -6; Sun 12-4. [email protected]
B.C.T. HOBBY & CRAFTS
201-C McCray St.
CALIFORNIA • Orange
New Products, Old Kits & Great Service! Everything you need to build plastic models Armor, Aircraft, Ships, Cars, SciFi and more. M-F 10:30-6pm, Sat 10:30-5pm, Sun 12-5pm www.militaryhobbiesonline.com
830 E. Lincoln Ave.
CALIFORNIA • San Mateo
COLORADO • Aurora
Large inventory of models from the world over! Detailing accessories, research publications, games, trains, R/C, tools, and supplies. Easy access from D.I.A. http://www.colpar.com
1915 S. Havana St.
MICHIGAN • Traverse City
Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.
ANN’S HOBBY CENTER
405 E. Putnam Avenue
CONNECTICUT • Manchester
Largest hobby shop in NE. Military, cars, trucks, plastic models, diecast cars, trucks. Planes, RC planes, cars, trucks, slot cars, rockets, Breyer, Detailing supplies, games! Mon-Wed 10-6 Th-Fri 10-9 Sat-Sun 10-6
TIME MACHINE HOBBY
71 Hilliard St.
CONNECTICUT • Milford
Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train sets. Open Tues - Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5. www.HQHobbies.com
394 New Haven Ave., Unit 1
FLORIDA • Ft. Myers
Plastic modeling kits. Paint, tools, scenery, accessories, & scale model railroads. Mon - Sat 10:00am-6:00pm; Closed Sun www.metrotrainsandhobbies.com
METRO TRAINS & HOBBIES
12951 Metro Parkway
GEORGIA • Blue Ridge
Huge selection of model kits & accessories. Ships, Armor, Aircraft, Figures, Cars and more. Visit: www.freetimehobbies.com for complete listing. Monday to Friday 10-5, Saturday 10-4
FREE TIME HOBBIES
47 Dunbarton Farm Rd.
HAWAII • Kailua, Oahu
Wide selection of plastic model kits, paint, books, magazines and tools. Located on the beautiful windward side, a scenic 20 minute drive from Honolulu. Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-2
767 Kailua Road
MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston) Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, figure kits, games, etc. Shipping available. Info: hobbybunker.com
HOBBY BUNKER, INC.
33 Exchange St.
MASSACHUSETTS • Marlboro
Stop in ONCE! A customer for LIFE! We have 10,000+ models, tools, supplies, 23 paint lines, 50 model mags, 5,000+ books. Est. in 1973, open 7 days, Th & Fr 'til 8. Visit us @ www.sparetimeshop.com
THE SPARE TIME SHOP
Rt 20E Main, Post Rd. Plaza
MASSACHUSETTS • Norton
6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-fi. Reference books & supplies. Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to Rt. 123E, behind Dunkin’ Donuts. www. mymummy.com E: [email protected]
HARRY’S HOBBIES & COLLECTABLES
250 E. Main St., Rt 123
MICHIGAN • Owosso
Your source for plastic models, diecast and all supplies needed to finish your latest model. Open 7 Days - Call for Hours www.talbotstoyland.com 445 South “B” Street
CONNECTICUT • Cos Cob
We believe that our readers are as important as our advertisers. If you do not receive your merchandise or a reply from an advertiser within a reasonable period, please contact us. Provide details about what you ordered and the amount you paid. If no action is obtained after we forward your complaint to the advertiser, we will not accept further advertising from them. FineScale Modeler magazine, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53187. The Advertiser Index is provided as a service to FineScale Modeler magazine readers. The magazine is not responsible for omissions or for typographical errors in names or page numbers.
DEAN’S HOBBY STOP
MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit)
New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more. www.michtoy.com
MICHIGAN TOY SOLDIER & FIGURE CO.
1400 E. 11 Mile Rd.
TRAINS & THINGS HOBBIES
210 East Front St.
MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit
Your single stop model building shop. Michigan’s largest selection of new and vintage kits in all genres plus everything needed to build them. Wed - Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5 Visit us on Facebook. www.modelcave.com
103 W. Michigan Avenue
NEVADA • Las Vegas While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories. Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5.
4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103
NEW HAMPSHIRE • Dover
NEW JERSEY • Kenvil
NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden) Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts, tools. Open 7 days
AAA HOBBIES & CRAFTS
706 N. White Horse Pike
NEW YORK • Buffalo
SECTION 8 HOBBIES
NEW YORK • Middle Island Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies. Books and magazines.
MEN AT ARMS HOBBIES, INC.
134 Middle Country Rd.
NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum. Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits. Open 7 days.
JAN'S HOBBY SHOP, INC.
1435 Lexington Ave.
Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint & aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor, ships, trains & sci-fi. Special orders welcome! Tue - Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-5, Sun 1-4:30 Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com
TOP SHELF MODELS
119 S. Main St.
OREGON • Beaverton Complete full line hobby shop. Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon - Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5.
12024 SW Canyon Rd.
Large Selection New & Used Kits Military books, tools, paint, airbrushes Full line hobby shop open Tue - Thur 10-6, Fri 10-7, Sat 10-4 www.CoolTrains.com
COOLTRAINS TOYS & HOBBIES
106 W. Main Street
East Tennessee’s largest plastic model selection. 8,000 sq. ft. of hobbies & toys. Located in Knoxville’s premier shopping destination. Turkey Creek Area. Open 7 days a week.
11145 Turkey Dr.
HO & N, Lionel trains. Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies. Open 11am-6pm M-F, Sat. 10am-5pm www.gandgmodelshop.com
G & G MODEL SHOP
2522 Times Blvd.
Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes. Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7. Sat 10:30-6. www.malhobby.com
M-A-L HOBBY SHOP
108 S. Lee Street
TEXAS • San Antonio
Scale modeling from beginner to expert. A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, figures, ships, & sci-fi. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10am-6pm.
1029 Donaldson Ave.
VIRGINIA • Chantilly
WNY’s largest selection of models!!! We specialize in models. New, old, rare and vintage. Tons of detail and weathering products, paint, tools and so much more! 2243 Seneca St.
PENNSYLVANIA • Landisville (Lancaster)
TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)
Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details! 590 Rt. 46
HILLSBORO HOBBY SHOP
345 E. Main St.
TEXAS • Houston
Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors #334 90 Washington St.
Full service hobby shop. Over 6,000 recently acquired models. All the supplies you need to build your model. www.hillsborohobby.com
TENNESSEE • Knoxville
OKLAHOMA • Owasso
Thousands of model kits from old Aurora to new releases. Mon 4pm-7pm, Tues - Fri 11:30am-5pm. Sat 11:30am-4:00pm E-mail: [email protected] 116 N. Washington Street
OREGON • Hillsboro
Let your imagination run wild! Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, model railroading Z to G and more...
Minutes from Dulles Airport & New Dulles Air & Space Museum, Udvar-Hazy Center. PLASTIC! PLASTIC! PLASTIC! Kits for aircraft - armor - ships - cars Daily 12-8; Sun 12-5. www.piperhobby.com
13892 Metrotech Dr.
WASHINGTON • Seattle
Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models. Large selection of detail parts. Largest selection of plastic models in South Seattle! www.skywaymodel.com
SKYWAY MODEL SHOP
12615 Renton Ave. South
CANADA–ON • Ottawa (Vanier) One of Canada's leading model shops. Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories. Free parking. On Parle Francais.
HOBBY HOUSE, LTD
80 Montreal Rd.
CANADA–ON • Toronto Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & finishing products. Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections. www.wheelswingshobbies.com
WHEELS AND WINGS
1880 Danforth Ave.
Don’t wait any longer! Place your classified ad today!
Alpha Precision Abrasives, Inc._____ 4
FineScale Modeler Books ________ 63
ParaGrafix _____________________ 6
ARA Press_____________________ 8
FineScale Modeler Magazine _____ 63
Roll Models_________________ 4, 64
Aves Studio ____________________ 9
Hobbylink Japan ________________ 4
Sprue Brothers _________________ 6
Bluejacket Shipcrafters ___________ 6
Hornby America ________________ 9
Squadron Mail Order _________ 2, 15
Colpar’s Hobbytown USA _______ 64
IPMS Niagara Frontier Chapter __ 64
Tamiya America, Inc. ___________ 68
Dean’s Hobby Stop _____________ 64
TotalNavy.com ________________ 64
Dragon Models USA ___________ 67
Michigan Toy Soldier Co.________ 64
Xuron ________________________ 6
Evergreen Scale Models __________ 6
Micro-Mark __________________ 15
Zvezda USA __________________ 13
Fantastic Plastic Models _________ 64
Oldmodelkits.com _____________ 64 www.FineScale.com
FINAL DETAILS By Ed Baroth
Be careful what you wish for
hat modeler hasn’t thought, “I’d love to do this all the time,” or “I wish I could get paid to build models.” I know I have. Well, be careful — it won’t be what you expect. I received a call from a Hollywood director (no one I’d ever heard of ) who got my name from a local hobby shop. He needed some models built for dioramas he was setting up for camera locations, etc. Great. Willing to pay — fine. Needed 10 models by Friday — it was Tuesday morning. As fellow modelers in my club in Burbank, Calif., who have worked for the entertainment business say, directors want it yesterday. Turns out he had 10 Trumpeter 1/35 scale Russian BM-21 Grad Multiple Rocket Launchers (kit No. 01013). Each kit has about 500 parts, including photo-etch (PE). Obviously, he couldn’t expect 10 award-winning models in three days. He just wanted shells to plan for camera locations or to help visualize the action. So, I said yes. No glass, no PE, no paint, no decals. That afternoon, his personal assistant (PA, or gofer) dropped off the kits plus a dozen 1/35 scale Russian T-80 tanks — NuWay kits, essentially pre-painted and snap fit. See you on Friday. The clock was ticking. Completely different strategy for me: What’s the minimum? Which steps can I skip? Engine? Gone. Steering linkage? Forget it. Nice cab detail — don’t think about it. Does it really need the gas cap? He did say he wanted to see the rocket launcher. It has a great many pieces, but I can leave out a bunch. I add the six rubber tires and it is evening, too late to start another. I have to believe it will get easier once I go into production mode. Wednesday morning, 8 a.m. — I am back at work. I inspect the first one, looking for further efficiencies. I see I don’t have to clean the parts when I cut them off the sprue, just where they are cemented. I finish four kits and quit at midnight. Thursday, 8 a.m. — this will be my marathon day. I’m up until 3 a.m. and have finished 8.5 kits. I haven’t stayed up this late since grad school. Think about pulling an all-nighter, but I’m too old for that. Very confident I can finish the rest tomorrow. Friday, 8 a.m. — back to the salt mine. Remember, this is what I wished for. I’m getting paid to build models — actually, to finish models. The PA arrives at 7 p.m. to pick up all 10 trucks and 12 tanks. He leaves behind 10 boxes, each with about 200 unused parts. That’s a lot of spares. I hope I haven’t offended the modeling gods by not building those nice kits better. It does seem a shame. Would I do it again? Of course. Technically, they probably were the worst models I’ve made. But they might end up being the most useful. FSM
Would you want a hobby for a job? Ever built models for money? Would you do it again? Let us know: Upload images and text at www.Contribute.Kalmbach.com 66 FineScale Modeler March 2017