Fine Scale Modeler Vol.34 Issue 08 October 2016 How to paint realistic weapons, armor » p.16 NAILTHE DETAILSREWORKABf109FORISRAELISERVICE GOING BIG: Building the USS Texas...

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How to paint realistic weapons, armor


October 2016 p.16




James Green’s 1/48 scale Sakeen – p.20

GOING BIG: Building the USS Texas p.38 Weathering a sci-fi battle suit p.18

FSM STAR Dan Jayne MODELER retrospectıve p.46


Isracast T-6 Texan II

Moebius Batman v Superman Batmobile



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October /// Vol. 34 /// No. 8

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KIT REVIEWS 52 MPC Space: 1999 Eagle

16 Form & Figure Painting metal weapons and armor JOE HUDSON

54 ICM Junkers Ju 88A-5

18 Airbrushing & Finishing Future wear for an Ma.K fighting suit BRETT AVANTS

55 AFV Club Husky Mk.III VMMD


20 Sharpening a Sakeen

57 Trumpeter MT-LB

Converting Hobbycraft’s Czech Avia S-199 for Israeli service JAMES GREEN

58 Isracast T-6A/B/C Texan II 59 Moebius Batman vs. Superman Batmobile

26 A retro Eagle in flight Quick fixes plus 40-year-old decals give an F-15 wings PATRICK HAWKEY


29 Pressing ahead

5 Editor’s Page

32 Show Gallery: AMPS 2016

7 Scale Talk


38 How to build a battlewagon

10 New Products 51 Reader Tips

Deepening the art of Texas BILL PLUNK

62 Questions & Answers

46 Remembering Dan Jayne

64 Hobby Shop Directory

Creative modeling beyond the norm

64 Classified Marketplace

66 Final Details Gonzo modeling wins MARK HEMBREE

60 RS Models DFS 230


Using Takom’s 1/35 scale SUV to create a dusty modern war scene ANDERS ISAKSSON

Armor Modeling and Preservation Society’s international convention

56 Hasegawa IJN Shimakaze


65 Advertiser Index

FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187. Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, PO Box 62320, Tampa, FL 33662-2320. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.


ITEM 56039 L:532mm

This is a 1/16 scale R/C model assembly kit of the German tank destroyer Jagdpanzer IV Lang /70(V). It features a number of metal parts for a durable finish, plus a highly accurate body and pre-assembled gearbox with two Type 380 motors. The Jagdpanzer IV Lang / 70(V) and its L/70 7.5cm gun quickly proved a fearsome opponent for allied armored vehicles after its appearance near the end of WWII. It used the tried and tested Pz.Kpfw. IV chassis with a smartly-sloped covered fighting compartment on top. It was dubbed “Lang” (German for “long”) to differentiate it from a shorter L/48 gun variant, with /70 denoting the caliber and (V), its manufacture by the company Vomag. 930 Jagdpanzer IV /70(V) Langs were produced between August 1944 and March 1945, and despite the losing German cause they fought in actions such as along the Ardennes front from December 1944, their exceptional range and power troubling Allied forces until the last. A Precision made aluminum gun barrel accurately reproduces the main gun which protrudes from the distinctive “Saukopf” mantlet. When firing, main gun roars and muzzle flashes thanks to an LED in the barrel. The barrel recoils after firing via the fighting compartment interior gearbox, and then returns smoothly to the original position. Vehicle kickback is also recreated by the drive gearbox.

& Features 16˚ elevation and 24˚ traverse ranges. Speed is controlled via transmitter control sticks. Sight and slide cover move simultaneously. Includes stickers to recreate the 3D pattern of the Zimmerit anti-magnetic mine coating.

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EDITOR’S PAGE By Mark Savage

Who wants more? I do, I do … Summer was busy. There were air we love you best) we offer much more shows, modeling conventions, reader online. A short list: wish-list surveys, and the late sum• Reader Tips archive mer push to create magazines and • Hobby directory and New special issues you’ll be reading Products database through Christmas. • Online Extras that share more Truth is that we’re always busy photos and info from some of creating new issues and info that we our best how-to stories hope will help you enjoy • Videos of model modeling. shows we’ve attended, It’s fun to I know from your e-mails New Product Rundowns, that, no matter the season, and how-tos explore you’re working on a build But wait, there’s more! online. or planning one. Consider Now we’ve opened our And more this a friendly reminder Product Reviews vault so is better, that FineScale Modeler has everyone (subscriber or not) right? you covered 24/7. can read kit reviews from I’m referring, of two years prior and all the course, to way back to 1996. Subscribers can Many of you kibitz in its forums still see all reviews, including the lator ogle Reader Gallery photos that est ones. we post regularly. But it may surprise So, if you’re curious about an older you to know that there’s a lot more in model you’ve found at a hobby shop, the way of tips and kit reviews. online, or buried deep in your stash, First, for subscribers (and let’s be just go to Product Reviews on the honest, you folks pay our salaries, so web and search by brand or product.

Surf’s Up! That’s right, FSM has a lot more awesome info on its website.

There also are filters to help you narrow your search or hunt by category. It’s fun to explore online. And more is better, right? Enjoy the more FSM has to offer!

[email protected]

Off the sprue: What’s your favorite dessert?

Editor Mark Savage [email protected]

Senior Editor Aaron Skinner [email protected]

Associate Editor Mark Hembree [email protected]

Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash [email protected]

Editorial Associate Monica Freitag [email protected]

Angel pie, a deliciously light treat my wife’s grandmother and mother used to make. It’s a meringue crust with whipped cream filling and shaved chocolate sprinkled on top. We’ve never had to worry about leftovers!

Lamingtons, an Australian treat that consists of delicious blocks of sponge cake dipped in chocolate and rolled in coconut.

Velma, my neighbor when I lived in Nashville, Tenn., is 90 now and still bakes me a peach cobbler when I visit — all because I wouldn’t take any money for replacing the starter on her Dodge Coronet in 1984. Best-paying repair job ever!

I know, I know … raw cookie dough is bad for me. But I just can’t help but love it. If I’m being perfectly honest, only half the batter ever makes it to the oven. And If the raw eggs kill me, then I shall die very happy indeed!

German chocolate cake because of the frosting that is on top and throughout the middle — coconut and pecans. Mmm! And if German chocolate cake isn’t available, I’ll take tiramisu!



3 Models Available! Starting at


TOLL FREE 1-877-872-4780

Check out our Web site!

Editor Mark Savage Art Director Tom Ford

EDITORIAL Senior Editor Aaron Skinner Associate Editor Mark Hembree Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash Editorial Associate Monica Freitag

ART Illustrator Kellie Jaeger Photographer William Zuback Production Coordinator Cindy Barder

CONTRIBUTING MODELERS Paul Boyer, Federico Collada, Andy Cooper, Raúl Corral, Frank Cuden, Phillip Gore, James Green, Joe Hudson, Rick Lawler, Karl Logan, Harvey Low, Rato Marczak, Chris Mrosko, Bill Plunk, Darren Roberts, Chuck Sawyer, Cookie Sewell, Bob Steinbrunn, Cristóbal Vergara, Jim Wechsler, Adam Wilder

KALMBACH PUBLISHING CO. President Charles R. Croft Vice President, Content Stephen C. George Senior V.P., Sales & Marketing Daniel R. Lance Vice President, Consumer Marketing Nicole McGuire General Manager Brian J. Schmidt Advertising Director Scott Bong Corporate Art Director Maureen M. Schimmel Art and Production Manager Michael Soliday Circulation Manager Cathy Daniels Single Copy Specialist Kim Redmond

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6 FineScale Modeler October 2016


Your voice in FSM

Junior modelers vs. tiny parts Don Frankfort’s letter in May’s FSM about kit manufacturers going overboard on tiny parts was very thought-provoking. I am of a similar vintage, being 60 years old, and can remember the early kits having only 20–30 parts. What concerns me now is that the plethora of parts, especially tiny parts, may be off-putting for those under 10 who have just started modeling. I believe that at that age, kids just want to end up with a finished model quickly and will give up on models with too many parts. Some of the major mainstream manufacturers now admit they are designing kits

Good times on the NPRD I have been a subscriber for years. I have to say I truly enjoy the “New Product Rundown” reviews by Aaron Skinner, whom I have known for some time, and Elizabeth Nash, whom I have never met. Kudos for you and your staff for allowing the levity and obvious enjoyment these two are having with the informative and useful reviews. The banter and humor do not detract in the least from the

reviews. I got a kick out of seeing Elizabeth’s parents, too. Carry on doing what you’re doing on the NPRD. – Marty Sanford Placerville, Calif.

Now at Online Extras Think you know everything about tanks after commemorating their 100th anniversary in September? Test your knowledge with our online Tank Quiz. Go to the “100 Years of Tanks” special page.

Free desktop wallpaper Download a desktop wallpaper of Moebius Models’ 1/25 scale Batmobile built by Aaron Skinner for Workbench Reviews and featured on p. 59 in this issue.

New Product Rundown Want to know about a kit before you buy? Aaron Skinner and Elizabeth Nash host a twicemonthly review of the newest models where they open the boxes to show what’s inside.


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Let the tiny parts go I’m in the process of building a couple of the more recent 1/700 scale ship models (HobbyBoss, CyberHobby, and Trumpeter). Good grief, the parts are getting ridiculously small! I fully expect that the next generation of 1/700 scale kits released will have individual crew members with sepa-

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I am a returning modeler after a 40-year hiatus. Six years ago, I was involved in a work-related accident. I now have “TBI” or Traumatic Brain Injury. Memory and speech are just some of the things that are affected. About a year ago, I became a member of the FSM Forum — a great blessing for me. At first, I built models to help my fine motor skills; I now build models as a rabid fan of the hobby. My current project is a Kitty Hawk 1/32 scale OV-10 Bronco. I could not have gotten this far without the wonderful community within the FSM Forum. I also want to thank you for choosing my projects — not one, but two — for the Online Reader Gallery: my Monogram 1/48 scale Visible B-17G fully loaded with Eduard PE and one photo with both a Tamiya 1/32 scale and a Revell 1/48 scale Corsair. Every build I’ve done from 2015–2016 is entered in the aircraft thread under my Japanese name, “Toshi.” Everyone has given me the support I needed to excel in my new hobby. Most importantly, I’ve learned to have fun from other forum members and I will continue with this mantra. Once again, thank you from the bottom of my heart. – Toshi (Allan) Miura Streetsboro, Ohio

rately molded hats and shoes! I like detail, but manufacturers need to take a more realistic approach to making buildable models. When the parts start getting smaller than the tips of the tweezers, it’s time to let it go. Save the microscopic photo-etch for the aftermarket. Of course the real problem is that 1/350 scale, with 3-foot-long aircraft carriers, is too big and 1/700 scale is too small. – Tom Kupferer Naperville, Ill.

Ask and you shall receive (and build)

1/350 scale USS Texas is in my hands. I believe its appearance was a direct result of the manufacturer seeing the desire of modelers to get a kit of this ship. Thanks to FineScale Modeler for allowing us to tell the companies what we would like to see. The surveys work!

Being a long-time subscriber and reader of FineScale Modeler, I always try to take part in the surveys — especially the “Most Wanted Kits” surveys. I’ve lived all my life in the Houston area and am quite close to the USS Texas. I have been searching for an affordable plastic kit of this historic ship for years and have always included it when answering the survey. Finally, after all this time, Trumpeter’s


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NEW PRODUCTS Compiled by Monica Freitag & Aaron Skinner


Kinetic F/A-18C tops in detail and options One glance at the airframe parts of the new 1/48 scale Hornet from Kinetic (No. K48031) reveals the quality of the offering. Fine, wellmolded engraved panel lines and rivets comprise the surface detail. The kit features molded controls in the cockpit, gearbay structural detail, a multi-

part seat, and full-length intakes and exhausts. But what truly makes this kit stand out is the options. They include: extended or stowed speed brake and refueling probe; optional avionics; posable flaps; folded wings; open or closed canopy; and a boarding ladder. Photo-etch


provides external details, rearview mirrors, vents, and gear-bay wiring. There's a bunch of ordnance, including AIM-120s, AIM-9s, GBU12s, CBU-87s, GBU-38s, and AGM-88s. Fuel tanks and targeting pods round out the underwing stores.

Cartograf decals provide seven Hornets: five American, including two agressors, one Swiss, and one Finnish. Kinetic’s Hornet costs $65.99.

1/72 SCALE

1/32 SCALE

Boeing 777-300ER from Revell, No. 04945, $38.95.

ARMOR KITS TS11 Iskra bis DF two-seater trainer recon Mitsubishi A6M5c Zero Fighter (Zeke) Type 52 Hei from Hasegawa, No. 08884,

from Arma Hobby, No. 70004, $17.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

1/35 SCALE

DHC-6 Twin Otter Swisstopo from Revell,

Flakpanzer T-34 from Dragon, No. 6599, $74.99. 1935-1945 series. Smart Kit.

$72.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

1/48 SCALE

No. 03954, $11.95.

1/144 SCALE MiG-27 Flogger D from Trumpeter, No. 05802, $74.95.

Embraer 195 Air Dolomiti from Revell, No. 04884, $10.95. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

T-33A Shooting Star (early version) from GWH, No. L4819, $59.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. 10 FineScale Modeler October 2016

British Airborne Universal Carrier and Welbike from Riich Models, No. RV35034, $49.99. Bonus kit.

Soviet SU-76i self-propelled gun from Dragon Models, No. 6838, $67.99. 1939-1945 series. Smart Kit.

Magach 1 & 2 battle tank from Dragon Models, No. 3565, $59.99. Middle East War Series: 50th Anniversary The Six-Day War.

SdKfz.171 Panther Ausf A early production from Dragon Models, No. 7499, $24.99. Armor Pro.


5cm PaK 38 auf PzKpfw II (Sf) from Dragon Models, No. 6721, $64.99. 1939-1945 series. Smart Kit.

Mittlerer Einheits PersonenKraftwagen (mEPkw) Kfz12 (early version & 2.8cm sPzB 41 On larger steel wheeled carriage with trailer SdAh 32/2 from Bronco Models, No. CB35209, $84.99.

WWII German rubber raft from Bronco Models, No. AB3578, $8.99. 2 sets in 1 box.

1/144 SCALE

Universal fuel tank trailer from Bronco Models, No. AB3579, $11.99.

MIM-104F Patriot from Dragon Models, No. 3563, $99.99. Surface-to-air missile (SAM) system PAC-3 M901 launching station. Smart Kit, Black Label.

HMCS Snowberry - Flower Class Corvette

1/72 SCALE

from Revell, No. 05132, $45.95. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

1/350 SCALE

10.5cm StuH 42 Ausf E/F from Dragon Models, No. 6834, $72.99. 1939-1945 series. Smart Kit.

Churchill Mk.III Avre combat engine from Dragon Models, No. 7327, $22.99. Armor Pro.

Airspeed A.S.58 Horsa Glider Mk.II from

HMS Astute from Trumpeter, No. 4598, $23.95.


Bronco Models, No. CB35203, $179.99.

1/32 SCALE US Coast Guard HH-65 Dolphin from Caracal Models, No. CD72043, $14.99. Eight options.



Dragon tackles first-of-the-line M60 Continuing its focus on Cold War American armor, Dragon has released a 1/35 scale M60 (No. 3553). The kit shares a few parts with the tank that preceded it, the M48. These reused parts include the engine cover and grilles, turret base, spotlight, and mantlet cover.

New are the hull halves and upper turret section. All feature nicely molded cast texture. Separate tires wrap goodlooking road wheels, although the lightening holes are missing from the drive sprockets. The slide-molded main gun has a deep, open muzzle and the commander's cupola

1/48 SCALE

and machinegun fixture have plenty of detail although the vision blocks are opaque. Small parts, such as lifting hooks, grab handles, and the turret basket are scale-thin, so care will be needed during removal from the sprue.

Russian MiG-29s over Armenia - 2016 VVS of Russia Mig-29s from Linden Hill, No. LHD48039, $20.99. Markings for five MiG-29 9-13 and one MiG29UB .

Mirage III Over Australia Part 2

Early Curtiss P-40s Part 1 from

from Caracal Models, No. CD48097, $17.99. Markings for 10 RAAF Mirages for Kinetic.

Xtradecal/Hannants, No. X48162, $8.65. Marking for six aircraft for new Airfix kit.

Guizhou JL-9 (FTC2000) from Caracal

Early Curtiss P-40s Part 2 from

Models, No. CD48105, $7.99. Markings for three JL-9 prototypes and development airframes for Trumpeter.

Xtradecal/Hannants, No. X48163, $8.65. Marking for six aircraft to fit new-tool Airfix kit.

B-1B Lancer from

AC-47 Spooky from Caracal Models, No. CD48085, $13.99. Markings for eight Vietnam War-era gunships. O-2 Skymaster from Caracal Models, No. CD48084, $13.99. Markings for six aircraft to fit Testors O-2 Skymaster. RAF Update 2015-2016 from Xtradecal/ Hannants, No. X48161, $8.65. RAF Update 2015-2016. Markings for a Typhoon, a Tornado, and a Hawk. BF109G-6 and G-14 Part 1 from BarracudaCals, No. BC32230, $12.95. Markings for seven Gustavs.

Decals provide markings for a single U.S. Army M60 with the 64th Armor Regiment in West Germany in 1964.

B-58 Hustler from Caracal Models, No. CD72024, $14.99. Markings for 19 aircraft. Dornier Do 228 from Caracal Models, No. CD72044, $13.99. Markings for seven aircraft; designed for Revell kit. F-106A Delta Dart Part 1 from Caracal Models, No. CD72043, $13.99. Markings for five aircraft; desgned for Meng kit. He 111 H-5, H-5y, H-6 from Xtradecal/ Hannants, No. X72248, $8.65. Markings for 10 aircraft. Tupolev SB-2/Avia B.71 from Xtradecal/ Hannants, No. X72245, $8.65. Markings for 10 aircraft. Bristol Beaufighter Mk.VI/TF Mk.X from Xtradecal/Hannants, No. X72244, $8.65. Markings for six aircraft. RAF Update 20142015-2016 Part 2 from Xtradecal/ Hannants, No. X72233, $10.80. Markings for seven RAF Anniversary aircraft from 2014/ 2015/2016, plus stencil data for two Tornados.

1/72 SCALE

Caracal Models, No. CD48092, $15.99. Markings for five USAF aircraft.

Bf109G-6 and G-14 Part 1 from BarracudaCals, No. BC72232, $10.95. Markigs for seven Gustavs.

Mi-24 Last Hinds of NATO from Caracal Models, No. CD48104, $9.99. Markings for six aircraft.

F-104 in Vietnam from Caracal Models, No. CD48102, $13.99. Markings for nine USAF F-104Cs. Shenyang J-15 from Caracal Models, No. CD48106, $13.99. Six marking options to fit Kinetic Su-33 Flanker. F-16 Vipers Against Terror from Caracal Models, No. CD48085, $13.99. Markings for seven Vipers from Egypt, Iraq, and Jordan.

12 FineScale Modeler October 2016

US Navy Blue Angels C-130 from Caracal Models, No. CD72052, $13.99.

RF-101C from Caracal Models, No. CD72047, $13.99.

C-54 Skymaster Part 2 from Caracal Models, No. CD72045, $15. Markings for nine USAF/USN C-54 Skymasters for Revell.

MiG-29 Pt. 2 - The 9-13 Series from Linden Hill, No. LHD72037, $19.99. 18 MiG-29 13s from Azerbaijan, Belarus, Moldova, Russia, Turkmenistan, Ukraine, USSR and Uzbekistan for Zvezda and Trumpeter.

Spitfire Mk. VIII Part 1 from BarracudaCals, No. BC72227, $10.95. Markings for six aircraft

Russian MiG-29s over Armenia - 2016 VVS of Russia Mig-29s from Linden Hill, No. LHD72035, $17.99. Markings for five MiG-29 9-13and one MiG-29UB MiG-29 9-12 from Linden Hill, No. LHD72036, $18.99. Markings for 12 MiG-29 9-12s from Eritrea, Kazakhstan, Russia/USSR and Ukraine for Trumpeter

Load of rough cut 2x4 resin, from G and J


Resin, $34.

1/24 SCALE


Bf 109G-10 and K4 wheels from Barrcudacast, No. BC32230, $12.95.

United States Infantry Weapons of the Second World War, $24.95, by

Armoured Warfare from the Riviera to The Rhine 19441945, $24.95, by

Michael Green, softcover, 200 pages, color and black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 978-1-47382-722-6. From Casemate Publishers.

Anthony TuckerJones, softcover, 120 pages, all black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 978-1-47382-146-0. From Casemate Publishers.

Stukas Over the Mediterranean 1940-1945 — Luftwaffe at War,

Stuka Spearhead — Luftwaffe at War,

1/32 SCALE Bf 109G-2 through G-10 seat - no belts from Barrcudacast, No. BR32223, $7.95.

Bf 109G-2 through G-10 seat with belts from Barrcudacast, No. BR32224, $8.95.

DH Mosquito FB. VI Ammo feed chutes from Barrcudacast, No. BR32225, $13.95.

1/48 SCALE MiG-21 Radome set from Barrcudacast, No. BR48294, $5.95.

Russian MiG-29 tail fin stiffener plate modification photoetch from Linden Hill, No. LHD48001, $5.

American Secret Projects, $44.95, by Tony Butler and Alan Griffith, hardcover, 280 pages, over 300 photos and drawings, ISBN: 978-1-90653748-7. From Specialty Press.

1/72 SCALE

X-Planes of Europe II - More Secret Research Aircraft from the Golden Age 1945-1971, $56.95, by Tony Butler and Alan Griffith, hardcover, 400 pages, 425 photos, ISBN: 978-1-906537-48-7. From Specialty Press.

Russian MiG-29 tail fin stiffener plate modification photoetch from Linden Hill,

$19.95, by Peter C. Smith, softcover, 64 pages, color and black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-184832-800-6. From Casemate Publishers.

$19.95, by Peter C. Smith, softcover, 72 pages, 8 pages of color photos blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-84832799-3. From Casemate Publishers.

No. LHD72001, $5.

Tu-22 Blinder exhaust and afterburner set from Barrcudacast, No. BR72287, $12.95.

Tu-22 Blinder main and nose wheel set from Barrcudacast, No. BR72287, $14.95.


A Complete History of U.S. Combat Aircraft Fly-off Competitions, $44.95, by Erik Simonsen, hardcover, 228 pages, 550 blackand white and color photos, ISBN: 978-158007-227-4. From Specialty Press.

US 55 gallon drums from Precision Scale

Flying Wings & Radical Things Northrop Secret Aerospace Projects & Concepts 19391994, $44.95, by Tony Chong, hardcover, 276 pages, 70 color photos, 369 blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-58007229-8. From Specialty Press.

Ilyushin Il-28, $56.95, by Yefim Gordon and Dmitriy Komissarov, softcover, 272 pages, over 500 color photos, ISBN: 978-1-85780-371-6. From Specialty Press.

Grumman S2F/S-2 Tracker and WF-2/ E-1B Tracer Part Two, $52.95, by Douglas Siegfried and Steve Ginter, softcover, 248 pages, 825 photos and drawings photos, ISBN: 978-09888529-5-2. From Specialty Press.

Airwar over the Atlantic — Luftwaffe at War, $19.95, by Manfred Griehl, softcover, 72 pages, color and black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-184832-791-7. From Casemate Publishers.

Parts, Bag of 5 parts $15; 1/24 parts 3 per bag $15. Available in all scales.



Standout book on standout fighter

Vallejo puts mud on the tires

With more than 100 aerial victories to its credit and no losses to enemy aircraft, the F-15 Eagle is one of the most successful fighters of all time. That makes it a popular modeling subject. If you plan on building an Eagle, it would be hard to find a more detailed reference than The Modern Eagle Guide: The Boeing F-15 Eagle /Strike Eagle Exposed (Reid Air, ISBN 978-09888529-5-2, $39.95). In this 203page, softcover second edition, Jake Melampy explores every nook and cranny, every compartment and hatch, and every antenna and probe. More than 1,000 color photos cover numerous F-15 variants — A, B, C, D, E, K, and SG — from all angles. Well-written captions give plenty of detail and highlight differences and similarities. More info:

Shep Paine observed that armored vehicles go through terrain and the tracks and tires toss copious mud around the running gear and onto the body. Acrylicos Vallejo's newest Weathering Effects acrylics allow modelers to make this kind of mess. Two styles are provided in six mud shades — European, Russian, industrial, light brown, brown, and black — with a slight gloss sheen. Splash mud is formulated to be blown onto the vehicle with a stiff brush by passing air from an airbrush through a paintbrush loaded with fluid. Thick mud, as the name implies, is perfect for deposits on tracks, wheels, and around the lower parts of vehicles. Some of the colors include vegetation or soil texture. Use an old brush or flat tools to daub it onto surfaces. Each 40ml (1.4 ounce) bottle costs $5.99.

Fighting in Ukraine: A Photographer at War — Images of War, $24.95, by

US Navy F-4 Phantom II Units of the Vietnam War 1946-68, $23, by

David MitchellhillGreen, softcover, 175 pages, ISBN: 978-147384-866-0. From Casemate Publishers.

River Plate 1939 — The sinking of the Graf Spee, $24, by Angus Konstam, softcover, 96 pages, ISBN: 978-1-4728-1795-2. From Osprey Publishing.

BT Fast Tank - The Red Army Cavalry Tank 1931-45, $18,

Gloster Javelin — An Operational History, $49.95, by

Downfall 1945 — The Fall of Hitler’s Third Reich, $24, by

Peter E. Davies, softcover, 96 pages, mostly color photos, ISBN: 978-1-47281451-7. From Osprey Publishing.

by Steven J. Zaloga, softcover, 48 pages, black-and-white and color photos, ISBN: 978-1-4728-1065-6. From Osprey Publishing.

Michael John W. Napier, hardcover, 256 pages, all blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47384881-8. From Casemate Publishers.

Steven J. Zaloga, soft cover, 96 pages, black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47281143-1. From Osprey Publishing.

Fw 200 Condor Units of World War 2, $23,

Bradley vs. BMP — Desert Storm 1991,

by Chris Goss, softcover, 96 pages, blackand-white and color photos, ISBN: 978-14728-1267-4. From Osprey Publishing.

$20, by Mike Guardia, soft cover, 80 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-1-4728-1520-0. From Osprey Publishing.

M9 ACE Armored Combat Earthmover In Detail, $35, by ,

14 FineScale Modeler October 2016

soft cover, 126 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-0-9973774-1-5. From Sabot Publications.

The M3 Grease Gun, $20, by Leroy Thompson, soft cover, 80 pages, few color photos, mostly blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47281107-3. From Osprey Publishing.

US Navy Light Cruisers 1941-45, $18, by Mark Stille, soft cover, 48 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-14728-1140-0. From Osprey Publishing.

US Army Rangers 1989-2015 Panama to Afghanistan, $19, by Leigh Neville, soft cover, 64 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-1-4728-1540-8. From Osprey Publishing.

Katyusha — Russian multiple rocket launchers 1941-present, $18, by Jamie


Prenatt, softcover, 48 pages, color photos, black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47281086-1. From Osprey Publishing.

Operation Totalize 1944 — The Allied drive south from Caen, $24, by

German Machine Guns of World War I MG 08 and MG 08/15, $20, by

Stephen A. Hart, soft cover, 96 pages, black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47281288-9. From Osprey Publishing.

Stephen Bull, soft cover, 80 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47281516-3. From Osprey Publishing.

British Battle Tanks World War I to 1939, $30, by David Fletcher, hardcover, 236 pages, all black-and-white black and white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47281755-6. From Osprey Publishing.

Su-33 Russian Navy from Linden Hill, No. AKAN47326, $26. Six acrylic colors.

WWII Soviet bomber and ground attack aircraft 1943-1945 from Linden Hill,

British Guided Missile Destroyers Countyclass, Type 82, Type 42 and Type 45, $18, by Edward Hampshire, softcover, 48 pages, few color photos, mostly black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47281116-5. From Osprey Publishing.

Sandits from Orion Products, No. 00402, $6.99. Plastic, aluminum oxide, silicone oxide.

No. AKAN47348, $26. Six acrylic colors.

More at Read detailed descriptions and see larger photos of the decal sets featured in New Products at

Get an in-depth look at many of the books featured in FSM in the Products section of


FORM & FIGURE By Joe Hudson

Taking a shine to metal Painting realistic weapons and armor


used Vallejo Model Metal Colors to give heavy-metal heft to the chain mail, ax, helm, and shield of Castle Miniatures’ 75mm Rolf the Viking. These new water-based acrylics are similar to Alclad II lacquers, but without the smell. They are easy to airbrush or hand-paint, and cleanup is a snap.

1 Over a base coat of Vallejo gray primer, I painted Rolf’s armor and weapons with gloss black primer. This step is essential to give subsequent metallic shades the proper shine. 16 FineScale Modeler October 2016

2 I brushed Metal Color steel on the chain mail. It’s not a thick coat of paint, nor a thin drybrushed film.

3 Base-coating the leather belts and jerkin at this point helps frame the mail for the next steps.

4 To deepen the shadows between the links, I flowed Vallejo black wash over the surface. A hair dryer sped the process to the next step.

7 I painted Rolf’s helm with a mix of Metal Color steel and silver over a gloss black primer. This medium dark shade allows for highlights later.

10 I painted the ax steel, then applied a glaze of thin steel along the edges to highlight the weapon’s shape.



I applied spots of Vallejo oxide and dark rust, not to make the armor appear corroded but to add a little dried blood to the battle-hardened warrior. A little goes a long way; apply the colors sparingly.


Finally, I used a mix of black wash and Model Color flat back to outline the belts and darken the mail in folds and creases.


Using a fine brush, I outlined the helmet’s seams with flat black.


Then, I added silver to the base color mix and applied it to edges and high points. The final highlights are pure silver.


The shield boss received the same mix of steel and silver that I used for the helmet, followed by black wash.

I added a shadow under the protrusion with flat black. A small dot of Model Color oily steel on the boss’ rivets adds contrast.

Acrylicos Vallejo paints used 70.865 Model Color Oily Steel 70.939 Model Color Smoke 70.950 Model Color Black 76.506 Model Wash Oxide Rust 76.507 Model Wash Dark Rust

13 On the back of the shield, I painted each rivet with gloss black primer, then added a small dot of oily steel. This emphasizes the shape of the fasteners. FSM

76.518 Model Wash Black 77.660 Gloss Black Surface Primer 77.712 Metal Color Steel 77.724 Metal Color Silver

Next issue Joe soars to new heights in the skies of World War II as he finishes a pilot from the 332nd Fighter Group — the famed Tuskegee Airmen.



Future wear for a fighting suit Hairspray chipping and armor weathering beat up a mecha


ately I’ve been really into Maschinen Krieger (Ma.K) kits; they are cool subjects with a variety of paint schemes and modifications. The 1/20 scale Archelon fighting suit is one of Wave’s newer kits. With few parts, including vinyl joints and hoses, it goes together smoothly and quickly. I sculpted replacements for the posable, vinyl joints with Apoxie Sculpt two-part epoxy putty over wire.

The real joy of these kits is painting and weathering, because there are so many possibilities. The kit instructions provide a bunch of choices and, of course, you can always create your own. That’s the beauty of sci-fi models: No one can tell you that it’s the wrong shade of olive drab! I chose a conservative paint scheme so I could focus on weathering. First, I sprayed the model with Vallejo black primer. The dark base coat adds depth to the next colors. I like Vallejo’s acrylic primers; they go on as smooth as a baby’s skin, dry quickly, and clean up easily. I let the primer dry for an hour. I planned to use hairspray as a release agent for paint chipping, so the next layer I added was the color I wanted the chips to expose. I airbrushed Vallejo Model Air camo black brown (No. 042). I typically spray these paints straight from the bottle through my Grex airbrush. If it needs to be

thinned, I’ll add a few drops of the Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner. Yes, the cleaner; it works well as a thinner. I let the paint dry thoroughly before spraying the entire fighting suit with thin coats of hairspray until the surface is satin or semigloss. I leave this until it is dry to the touch. Next, I airbrushed light coats of Ammo of Mig Jimenez Russian green light base (No. 933). The heavier the base coat, the harder it is to chip realistically, but you want enough paint for the color to be vibrant. I briefly let this dry. Then, working one small area at a time, I brushed on a thin coat of water and let it sit a few minutes. Then, I gently scrubbed the treated area with a damp, not wet, brush. Use the top or sides of the brush, depending on what kind of scratches and chips you want. I repeated the process — paint, hair-

spray, and chipping — with the next camo color, Ammo medium gunship gray (No. 204). At this stage, the chipping should be subtle enough to show black brown in some areas and green color in others. Bits of sponge dipped in camo black brown and touched to the model produced small chips. I used the same technique with light green — Ammo Russian shine (No. 935) — to add shallow surface scratches. Artist’s oils, enamels, acrylics, and pigments turned the fighting suit into a combat veteran. FSM

What the heck is Ma.K? Want more photos? Check out other views in a gallery at

18 FineScale Modeler October 2016

Created by Japanese artist Kow Yokoyama in the 1980s as a manga series, SF3D, the Maschinen Krieger universe revolves around conflict on a post-apocalyptic Earth in the 29th century. The combatants battle for control of the planet using fighting suits, robots, and aircraft. While the influence of sci-fi classics such as Star Wars and Blade Runner is apparent, many of the designs draw inspiration from the tanks and aircraft of the 20th century. Yokoyama built models of them using parts from other kits. The popularity of the stories led to kits from many manufacturers, including Nitto, Wave, Modelkasten, and Hasegawa.

Rust: Normally, large paint chips should be avoided, but on this suit I wanted to indicate rough wear and tear with little maintenance. On large chips, I added a light rust wash and even a little rust streaking — just enough to highlight the chips.

Pencil: I stroked the edges of parts like the shoulder and feet with a No. 2 pencil. A little bare metal goes a long way, but focuses attention on small details.

Oil shading: To emphasize molded detail on the gun arm, I painted the areas between raised panels with thin sepia oil paint. Accompanied by a darker pinwash, the oils add depth and contrast to the weapon.

Panel lines: Enamel washes from Ammo of Mig Jimenez and Wilder deepened recessed panel lines and fasteners.

Shadows: I rendered shadows around some of the suit’s lower surfaces with burnt umber artist’s oils. This adds color, depth, and some interesting effects.

Pigments: Using an old brush, I applied earth colored pigments to the fighting suit’s feet, knees, and hand to simulate dirt and grime. The excess can be blown off leaving a thin layer of dust on the model surface.

For help with weathering, look at construction equipment — this stuff is always beat up, chipped, rusted in places, and yet still functions. — Brett Avants

Sharpening a Sakeen Converting Hobbycraft’s Czech Avia S-199 for Israeli service /// BY JAMES GREEN

Hobbycraft has gotten a lot of mileage out of its 1/48 scale Bf 109 — but without a fancy conversion set of aftermarket parts, James makes changes to rework a rebox and model an aircraft from the early days of modern Israel.


’ve always thought it ironic that an aircraft emblematic of Hitler’s Nazi regime was instrumental in the survival of the fledgling state of Israel. Within days of Israel’s declaration of independence in 1948, attacks came from Arab neighbors. Desperate for aircraft, the Israelis defied an arms embargo and negotiated with the Czech government to buy the Jumo-powered version of the Messerschmitt Bf 109, the Avia S-199. The first machines arrived on May 20, 1948, and nine days later Israel’s new fighter arm launched four of these aircraft to bomb and strafe an Egyptian armored column that was advancing on Tel Aviv. Causing little actual damage, this attack nevertheless halted the Arab advance, allowing Israeli ground forces vital time to reorganize and go on the offensive, keeping Tel Aviv from being overrun. Hobbycraft’s 1/48 scale Avia S-199 “Mule” (No. HC1524) was issued with Czech markings and the blown, aft-sliding canopy hood produced by Avia. It also has been released as the “Israeli Knife” (No. HC1540) with the “Galland,” or Erla Haube canopy used on late-war 109s. Having acquired the Czech version, I decided to combine a canopy from Monogram’s Bf 109G and the head armor that comes with the Avia (due to its commonality with Hobbycraft’s Bf 109), along with aftermarket decals, to turn my Czech Mezek (mule) into an Israeli Sakeen (knife). 20 FineScale Modeler October 2016

Cockpit improvements Rather than shop the aftermarket, I elected to work with what was already there. Starting with the cockpit floor, I added the seat pan, then used the sharp point of a compass to make holes in the featureless faces of the molded switch boxes to simulate knobs. I secured it to the right fuselage half with strips of masking tape, then made a template for the forward bulkhead from paper card. I transferred the shape to .030" styrene sheet and glued the kit floor and new bulkhead into the right fuselage half. I removed the forward portion of the

kit’s cannon cover with a razor saw, cutting it to match the angle of the new bulkhead, 1. I airbrushed the interior with an undercoat of Testors Model Master RAF dark sea gray and dry-brushed with Model Master RLM 02 gray. When the paint was dry, I joined the fuselage halves and used a draftsman’s pencil with the lead extended ¾" to mark where the cockpit floor mates with the left side wall. Then I separated the fuselage halves and picked out the rim of the trim wheel molded to the left side wall with a brush-applied coat of flat white. Once this was dry, I sprayed the entire cockpit with Testors Dullcote. Chartpak tape was laid along the pencil marks drawn earlier to collect grime where the floor meets the wall, 2. I applied brown watercolor to corners and recesses, let it dry thoroughly, then blended and wicked out the watercolor with barely damp red sable brushes and cotton swabs. A dusting of Dullcote sealed the watercolor. Now the cannon breech cover and

.030" styrene sheet

Unblended watercolor

Unblended watercolor

Cannon cover


Chartpak tape


James passed up aftermarket cockpits to detail what came with the kit. Adding a forward bulkhead, he cut the kit’s cannon cover to fit its angle. Brown watercolor was flowed into shadowy recesses, then blended with a little more water on a fine brush.

After picking out the outer trim wheel on the port side with flat white, James flowed in more brown watercolors. He applied thin Chartpak tape at the boundaries of the cockpit to collect grime in the appropriate areas on the walls and floor. Cannon cover

Blended watercolor

Poked detail

Paper strip



Inner trim wheel

Metallic highlights

Tape removed, grime buildup


Now the cockpit shows the effects of blended watercolors, grime buildup at the edges, and dry-brushing with RLM 02 gray. Then James added the inner trim wheel.

Eduard photo-etched (PE) rudder pedals were added to the cockpit floor, followed by the second trim wheel. A silver Prismacolor pencil provided highlights and wear, followed again by Dullcote, 3 and 4. German instrument decals further enhanced the cockpit, 5. I coated the instrument faces with white glue that dried clear. Then I mounted the panel inside the right fuselage half. I added the control stick and lap belts from Eduard’s PE German seat belts set. I also improved the kit’s gunsight with reflectors made of thin acetate. Then I set it aside for later. I drilled out the exhaust stacks with a micro bit in a pin vise and mounted them to complete the basic fuselage.

Wing and airframe Before assembling the wing, you open up the flashedover holes noted in the instructions for the underwing cannon gondolas, aileron balances, FUG 16

James installed PE rudder pedals with paper strips for toe straps. The tip of a hobby knife produced additional surface detail; a silver Prismacolor pencil replicated bared or scratched metal.

antenna mast, and the over-wing wheel-bay bulges. When you do, you’ll see that the interior of the radiator scoops needs detailing. I made radiator faces from spare parts and micromesh, 6. Paint 02 gray inside and add the mesh after the paint dries. Then assemble the wing and attach it to the fuselage. Hobbycraft’s Avia kit uses the wing that is common to its Bf 109s, so the wheel wells have the standard Messerschmittstyle squared-off corners outboard. But these corners are rounded on Avias. I corrected this by inserting corner gussets of .040" styrene sheet. I made stiffeners (missing from the kit) from HO scale handrail and added them to the roof of the wheel bays, 7. Then, I painted the wheel wells 02 Number of gray. S-199 fighter


planes in Avia's first shipment to the Israeli air force

Rear deck/exterior Again, the Czech version needs updating: The rear deck molding behind the

cockpit has a square nitrous-oxide tank fairing — but the Avia didn’t have this system, so I sawed it off, Drawing 8. Filing and sanding smoothed the area; I restored the raised panel detail using .030" sheet. Also, since I was going to use the Galland canopy, I added the appropriate canopylock detail using beading wire and bits of styrene, 9 and 10. I mounted the gunsight on the instrument panel and added the kit’s windscreen. After masking the windscreen and sealing the cockpit, I airbrushed dark ocean gray. When this dried, I unmasked the cockpit opening and dry-brushed the cockpit sill and rear deck with 02 gray. I attached and faired the kit’s machine gun bulges to the fuselage, 11. The kit’s nose-mounted machine gun barrels were carefully bored with a fine drill and added to their troughs upfront. Then I added one of the PE shoulder harnesses and positioned and pre-bent the other to add later, when it would hang over the sill. Added details for the supercharger intake are shown in Drawing 12. I used


Remove shaded area with razor saw Open with needle files

Dive brake from 1/72 scale Stuka

File off raised details, then cut apart Back faces with brass micromesh



German instrument decals came from a Revell ProModeler kit. Drops of white glue dried clear to replicate instrument glass.


Remove nitrousoxide tank fairing

Cover with .030" sheet styrene



James used .040" sheet styrene to correct the shape of the wheel wells.

fler files and sandpaper super glued to the sharpened ends of cocktail sticks to clean off mold seams deep in the scoop, smoothing the work with Testors liquid cement before painting the interior 02 gray. Super glue the micromesh disk and paint flat black on that area of the right fuselage that will show through the mesh. Then glue the intake to the fuselage. Moving to the wingtips, I notched out the navigation lights with a round file and cut new ones from .040" clear styrene sheet, filing and sanding them to fit the notches. Drill out the back of each lens and apply a tiny drop of red (port) and green (starboard) paint to simulate the bulbs. Attach the lenses with gel-type super glue, then wet-sand and polish them to clarity. I sawed the gun barrels from the underwing gun gondolas and saved them for later. Then I glued the gondolas on.

Time to paint I started with the rudder stripes, applying flat white. When this was dry, I applied strips of tape to mask the areas to remain white and applied the red. When the red is dry to the touch, you can unmask the white 22 FineScale Modeler October 2016


stripes. I let all that dry thoroughly, then masked off the whole rudder to paint the camouflage. I applied Pactra sky blue to the underside and used the same topside to check for flaws that needed filling and sanding (such as the machine gun cowl bumps). Rather than the gray on most Avias that flew in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War, I modeled one of the handful of surviving airframes relegated to reserve status after May 1949 in locally applied camouflage. In preparation for painting, I masked the cockpit, covered the navigation lights with Microscale Micro Mask, and stuffed wet tissue into the wheel wells and radiators. A bit of an expanding-foam earplug sealed the supercharger intake. Then I masked off the blue undersides, inserted toothpicks in the landing gear locators, and pinned the plane to a block of plastic foam for painting, 13. I sprayed Testors Italian sand on the upper surfaces. When this dried, I masked and sprayed the camouflage pattern with Testors field green. After unmasking the camouflage, I hand-brushed the exhaust stacks with Pactra rust.

Propeller and drop tank Planning to use brass tubing, I had already glued the kit’s plastic shaft in place to solidify that area. I then trimmed the end off and bored it to accept a ½"-long segment of 1⁄8" brass tubing, 14. The prop received a shaft of 3/32" tubing that fits into the new shaft mount in the nose, 15. I had to drill out the mounting holes to better fit the drop tank. I also couldn’t help but notice that the deep recess molded around the tank’s midsection needed a retaining strap; I used a strip of PE. A little Mr. Surfacer and wet-sanding blended the strap into the surface of the drop tank before I repainted it, 16.

Markings and weathering Beginning with the airframe number, I started marking my Avia: Woodland Scenics dry transfers (sheet MG708) provided the desired type style, 17. To ensure adhesion, I airbrushed Dullcote to prep these surfaces. I rendered a Hebrew character by cutting the bottom portion of an L from another Woodland Scenics sheet. I applied Testors Glosscote overall to prepare for decals, then put on the national

.010" sheet styrene Lock bar made from beading wire

Sheetstyrene cover

Smooth with emery boards and sandpaper





Machine-gun bulges

Slice off locating tab and use to fill corresponding locator on fuselage

Margarine-foil bracket added to canopy lock

Mark inlet

Open inlet with drills and ball-shaped grinding burrs

PE shoulder harness placed



A touch of putty smoothed in the machine-gun bulges, while a bit of foil provided a subtle detail on the canopy lock.

insignia, tail band, and squadron marking from an AeroMaster sheet (No. 48-119). Cockpit access, fuel, and oil markings came from the kit’s sheet. Drawing close to completion, I unmasked the cockpit and attached the pre-bent shoulder harness using fine wire held in a pin vise as an applicator to secure it with tiny drops of super glue, letting capillary action draw the glue into the mating surfaces. Brushing on a little Dullcote flattened the glossy super glue. I airbrushed Dullcote overall to prepare for weathering, then traced the panel lines with a draftsman’s pencil, 18. Considering the lighter desert soil, I started with 4H pencil lead overall, then graduated to a number 2HB lead for darker, heavier lines where grime would build up around the engine cowling, wheel wells, and in controlsurface hinge lines. A swipe with an artist’s nylon bristle brush slightly smudged the graphite and made the lines look grimy. Another application of Dullcote sealed it. I applied black watercolor to exhaust openings and the recesses around the engine exhausts. As I blended the watercolor, I swiped it in the direction of airflow.

Apply disk punched out of micromesh


Sources Israeli Avia S-199 decals, AeroMaster, Dry transfers, Woodland Scenics, Silver beading wire, CraftHouse, Brass micromesh, Precision Scale Model Engineering, Photo-etch, Eduard, Brass tubing, K&S Engineering,

I also painted the cowl machine gun barrels, openings in the engine-cowl cooling scoops, and lightening holes in the wheel wells with watercolors. I rubbed the barrels with a No. 2 pencil, then rubbed the pencil lead and black pastel sticks on sandpaper and applied the powder with brushes and cotton swabs to depict exhaust stains and cordite streaks. I added a little medium brown pastel dust to the wheel wells and under the wing.

Landing gear, canopy, fiddly bits Before painting, I masked the oleos to ensure they remained smooth. I painted the

struts and wheels 02 gray, then masked the wheel hubs and painted the tires black, following by dry-brushing of Testors Euro I gray, weathering, and sealing with Dullcote before I unmasked the oleos. Then I could hand-brush a coat of chrome with a fine sable paint brush; when the paint leveled and dried, the oleos were smooth and shiny. I now mounted the wheels to the struts according to the kit instructions; unlike earlier Messerschmitts, the Avia’s tires meet the ground at a 90-degree angle, 19. I dry-fitted the main gear and tail wheel in their mounting holes and set the model upright on a sheet of glass to align the


Brass-tubing insert



The plane was propped up on toothpicks for painting. This shot shows the results after James painted the camouflage.

A piece of 1⁄8" brass tubing serves as a collar that fits a prop shaft made from 3⁄32" brass tubing. Mr. Surfacer smooths it in

Brass-tubing prop shaft

Mounting holes drilled PE strap



The 3⁄32" brass-tubing propeller shaft telescopes into the collar on the engine.

PE represents a retaining strap on the drop tank; Mr. Surfacer blends it in and primes the PE for painting. James enlarged the mounting holes for a better fit.

landing gear. Rotating the glass palette on my bench with the model on it allowed me to check it from various angles while holding a draftsman’s triangle next to it. Once everything looked straight, I super glued the struts. With the wheels on, I added the gear doors, drop tank, and other underside details: the FUG 16 antenna mast, IFF whip antenna, aileron mass balances, and the pitot. Tacky glue allowed me time to align these items; small drops of super glue wicked into the joints with a fine wire applicator lent strength. I super glued a curled piece of fly-tying wire to a notch I filed into the end of the FUG 16 mast. Careful filing and sanding blended it into the mast. The IFF whip is a bristle of nylon paintbrush plugged into a tiny hole I drilled under the fuselage. I bored out the cannon barrels and painted them flat black, then dry-brushed with Euro I gray. After a shot of Dullcote, I gave them the gunmetal treatment with a No. 2 pencil followed by more Dullcote. I drilled out mounting holes in the front of the gun gondolas and attached the barrels 24 FineScale Modeler October 2016

with tacky glue to allow time to align them, again following with a drop of super glue for strength. To make the DF loop antenna, I curled a strip of coated paper around a dowel and painted it field green. White glue attached it to the teardrop fairing atop the fuselage. Displaying the canopy open and rigging the antenna wire required some thought. Before attaching the antenna mast to the canopy, I notched it with a knife-edged file. Into this notch I laid the end of a segment of 2.2-pound monofilament, securing it with drops of super glue. A touch of accelerator set the glue, allowing me to blend the antenna wire attachment and restore the mast shape with miniature files and emery boards. I painted the mast field green and super glued it to the canopy. I now mounted the canopy as shown in Drawing 20. Tape strips aligned the hood’s edge with the cockpit sill. I ran a fine bead of tacky glue along the edge of the canopy, applying it only between the tape hinges. This way, the glue won’t impede the tape strips when you prop the canopy up to dry. Once the glue sets, you can pull off the tape

hinges and remove excess glue with a fine, wet paintbrush. When this is dry you can strengthen the canopy’s attachment to resist the tension of the rigged antenna wire by wicking tiny drops of super glue into the joint; apply Dullcote to dull glossy glue. With the canopy securely in place, I trimmed the antenna wire to length and super glued the loose end in a predrilled hole in the fin’s leading edge. Waving a heated nail under it draws the monofilament tight. I tinted it black with a Sharpie marker and added insulators made of black-painted white glue. I strung a canopy retaining cable made from medium flytying wire. Add the prop and there you have it: A straightforward change of a basic kit from one version to another without busting your wallet. Other than aftermarket decals, everything that went into this project, including PE parts, was already in stock at my workbench or left over from previous projects. A little creativity was all it took to bring these things together to model an aircraft with a unique and ironic role in history.

Penciled panel Black lines watercolor

PE belt, draped

Cockpit access and octane rating



With painting complete, James proceeded to markings and weathering. The numbers are dry transfers; national insignia is from an AeroMaster sheet; and various other marks are from the kit’s sheet. Cordite stains and streaks of powdered black pastels and graphite

Black pastels for stain

Drafting-pencil panel lines are softened by smudging. Black watercolor stained the exhaust; blending the watercolor with a damp brush, James pulled it in the direction of the airflow. Apply tape “hinges” to the canopy corners

Position the canopy using the tape strips

Powdered graphite and light brown pastel

Monofilament antenna wire

Apply white tacky glue between the “hinges”

FUG 16 antenna Cockpit sill Paint bristle for IFF whip antenna

Rock the canopy upward into position and keep it propped until the glue sets



Getting down to the last little bits, and there are a lot of them. For many of the late details, James used tacky glue to place them, then super glue to nail them down.


Revell canopy Monofilament antenna Brass prop shaft

Watercolor weathering

White-glue insulators

Eduard PE belt

AeroMaster insignia Dry transfers

Painted rudder stripes

It’s not where you start, it’s where you finish. Without a long trip to the aftermarket, James was able to make the needed adjustments to model the plane he wanted and capture an unusual variation of a well-known aircraft. FSM


A retro Eagle in flight Quick fixes plus 40-year-old decals give an F-15 wings /// BY PATRICK HAWKEY

Later production models were not nearly as vibrant, but the Eagle prototype sported this bright paint scheme. Patrick’s self-made stand marks the day the first F-15 took to the sky.


asegawa’s first-generation 1/72 scale F-15 (No. JS-097) was initially released in the 1970s with the high-viz markings and square wingtips of preproduction YF-15s. Modeling one of these early F-15s largely depends on that kit’s decal sheet with its F-15 and McDonnell Douglas logos. But finding that sheet in usable condition after 40 years is a challenge.

Over time I obtained one worth trying — it was just usable, 1. With a viable decal sheet, the game was on. I wanted to pose it in-flight. I would 26 FineScale Modeler October 2016

also sand off all the fine raised detail and paint a smooth model. Panels were so invisible on these Eagles it would be inaccurate to cut up the model with lots of lines.

The kit itself is basic — maybe too basic in a couple of areas. My first concern was the canopy, which is a single piece and relatively thin. I dry-fitted the canopy and its frame to the upper fuselage half, going for the tightest fit I could get and forcing out any slop between the frame and the fuselage, 2. Next came the gear doors and their closed fit. Conveniently, the three-piece main gear doors are molded as one, to be separated only if you want to pose the

1 Care was needed when handling these decals, as the sheet was just starting to go bad and crack.

2 This fitting is much easier to fill and smooth than around the canopy itself.


I could prod corners into their precise locations from both front and back without the wells.


In retrospect, replacing the kit consoles completely with styrene stock would have been just as easy.

model on its wheels. To make any adjustments to the fit easier, I ground away the wells from the inside of the fuselage, allowing back access to the doors, 3. The cockpit is one of those areas that’s a little too basic. A floor with side consoles is provided, but not enough to do the job. I added styrene stock to fill empty cockpit space, 4. Also added was a small T-shaped bulkhead to block the empty look behind the seat. The seat is a poor rendition of a real one, so I replaced it with a spare from an Airfix F-15. I glued the top and bottom fuselage halves together. The fit was not precise, so I filled low spots with a 50-50 mix of super glue and talcum powder (my standard filler). Since surface detail was of no concern, I could sand with abandon. Before attaching the nose cone, I drilled a hole through the tip of it to accept a short length of fine aluminum tube. This would be the mount for the outrageous instrumentation boom featured on the original F-15s. The boom itself started as a length of styrene rod, one end rolled and rubbed on a flat piece of sandpaper to achieve the tapered, pointy forward end. I set this aside for safekeeping.


Since drilling perfection is hard to achieve, one of the holes in the base is deliberately oversized to adjust any tilt in the model.

After the wings were attached, I turned my attention to the stand.

Making the stand I make my own stands (see FineScale Modeler April 1999). This base is a resin casting with styrene sheet vacuum-formed over the top of it. The stem is acrylic rod, heated and bent to whatever curve works. I wanted the aircraft centered directly over the base, wings level, at a slightly nose-up angle. The easiest method of connection when it comes to a jet like this is inserting the stem of the stand directly into the engine exhaust, versus drilling a hole in the belly. This gets more complicated when the jet is a twin-engine like an F-15. Two stems are required, as close to identical as possible, as well as perfectly positioned holes in the back of the base to accept them. One of the holes is oversized to allow adjustment. Once the adjustable rod is shimmed into place, both are secured with super glue, 5. To accept the opposite ends of the rods smoothly, tubing made out of styrene, brass, or aluminum is mounted securely inside the exhaust nozzle pieces themselves. These are then mounted as securely as possible to the

model. The weight is going to stress these points to some degree, so I build as much strength into these connections as I can. Last step in the building process was attaching the canopy. But since any damage here is a serious problem, I left that step until after the model was permanently on the stand.

Painting First I applied a white base coat for the Day-Glo orange. The appropriate areas were given multiple coats of Testors gloss white enamel (No. 1145) for solid coverage. That done, I masked off the areas and applied gloss orange (No. 1127), 6. Where I normally thin my enamels with a little lacquer thinner, doing this to the Day-Glo paint causes it to clump up. Mineral spirits is the ticket here. Since the paint has the consistency of honey, significant thinning is needed to get a smooth flow out of an airbrush. This means many, many coats to achieve a solid covering. That’s why I put a solid gloss orange down first. The Day-Glo on top of that effectively “glows” without so much paint buildup. Once the tape came off, I took a fresh No. 10 hobby knife and rode it along the


6 In between the gloss white and orange, I wet-sanded with 1000-grit sandpaper after the paint is dry.

7 Paint buildup was still an issue with so many layers, so excess Day-Glo had to be scraped off.

resultant ridges to remove the worst of the edges, 7. The area was masked off again to protect it while the model was completed. I glued the pilot to his seat and took all possible measures to be sure there was no loose debris stuck in the model that could shake loose and be visible in the cockpit. Blending the canopy into the fuselage required some putty. Masking tape cut to shape protected the clear parts from putty and any scratching that sanding might incur. A great help here is a second canopy to use as a template for cutting masking tape. The tape was pressed on and the excess was trimmed away with a fresh single-edge razor blade, 8. What remains is a custom mask to be put exactly in place on the model. My version of Air Superiority Blue was Xtracolor Su-27 Flanker medium blue enamel (X601) lightened 50% with white, 9. A final, very thin mix of this blend was then applied to restore the gloss finish. Leading edges of all the flying surfaces were masked and painted silver. Then the decals were applied. Despite their age, they were just good enough to hold together, and they lay smoothly on the gloss finish. When they dried, a wipe-down with a damp cloth removed any residual decal glue. The model was then given a light, thin 28 FineScale Modeler October 2016

8 This trick works especially well on curved areas.

9 When this combination of paint was dry, it was wet-sanded smooth.

The F-15 is considered one of the most successful fighter planes in modern history, with more than 100 victories and no defeats.

layer of Testors Dullcote for a satin finish. Finally the masking tape came off of the canopy and the unique maroon framing was masked off and painted. The base was meanwhile primed, smoothed, and painted silver with Dupli-

Color auto lacquer. The subject data was typed up on my computer and printed on clear decal film. This was applied to the base and sealed with Testors Glosscote. Eagle No. 1 is ready to display. Mind that nose probe! FSM

Pressing ahead Using Takom’s 1/35 scale SUV to create a dusty modern war scene /// BY ANDERS ISAKSSON


ewspaper and TV journalists play an important role reporting live from the frontlines of conflicts around the world. Nightly news broadcasts and newspaper and magazine front pages are filled with video and photographs shot in the field. Of the many images that struck me were those of cars and trucks bearing hastily painted signage to identify the occupants as journalists. That’s what I wanted to model. Luckily, Takom has a kit of a Japanese SUV — it looks like a Mitsubishi Pajero — that worked perfectly for creating such a scene. And it’s in 1/35 scale, so it wasn’t hard to find a Black Box photographer to complete it.

29 FineScale Modeler October 2016


1 I inspected the kit’s contents, which look nice and feature good moldings. No photo-etched (PE) parts are included, but that’s not a major setback for this subject.

4 Next, I eliminated imperfections and applied a layer of Tamiya primer followed by a coat of aluminum.

7 I sprayed the SUV flat white, then painted the window trim and grille black. A cost of spraycan clear satin sealed the finish.

10 A desert vehicle’s tires won’t look new. So I gave them a realistic look by dulling them with a sponge sander. Next, I used a hammer to mount the tires on the rims. 30 FineScale Modeler October 2016

2 The seats are pretty good, but the back sides need filler to make the mold seam disappear. A little sanding and it’s time for assembly.

5 The interior was painted gray, using shades to give the seat surfaces realistic variation.

8 To minimize the risk of damaging the plastic, I glued all windows in with Gator’s Grip acrylic glue, a stronger variant of white glue. Stains can be wiped off with a brush soaked in water.

11 Gathered from various sources and painted different colors, accessories add variety. The mattress was unusual and fun to paint.

3 With the interior assembled, I’m ready to paint. I keep the instrument panel and steering wheel loose to facilitate detail painting.

6 I masked the aluminum with thin strips of tape and liquid masking. Both media are important to cover the compound curves around the SUV’s body.

9 I followed that with Tamiya’s clear red and orange to create accurate taillights and turn signals.

12 I put most of the accessories inside the SUV, then treated the interior to a thin layer of sandcolored pigment powder to simulate desert dust.

Making a base with basic groundwork

I glued on a piece of Oasis floral foam cut to size and shaped to a suitably sized wooden base. With the SUV’s wheels temporarily mounted, I made impressions in the groundwork by rolling the chassis across the foam.

Footprints in the soft groundwork were a piece of cake; I used separate shoes from Calibre 35. But the foam’s softness makes it easy to damage. To avoid that, I soaked the foam in diluted white glue and allowed it to dry.

Next, I sprayed the base and groundwork with Citadel chaos black and painted the top with several Vallejo sand colors before gluing a few stones onto the base. I followed by airbrushing the groundwork with several Tamiya colors to create a sandy shade.

Finally, I added a few grassy areas to create life in the groundwork. I finished by painting everything with a thin layer of the groundwork colors to blend the elements.



I used a felt-tip pen to create the hand-painted Press markings on the doors. The ink was not as permanent as I had hoped, but this turned out well as the letters’ chipped appearance looks realistic.

Prior to final assembly, the whole model received a thin layer of dust with the same color used for the groundwork tying the scene together.

With base and model complete, I put a little white glue under each wheel to attach the SUV to the base. I also glued the camera items and a water bottle from Def.Model atop the hood. I secured the figure with tiny drops of super glue. FSM



AMPS 2016

Builders of tanks and other military vehicles gathered in Sumter, S.C., in April for the annual contest and international convention of the Armor Modeling and Preservation Society. To mark the centennial of the first tanks in combat, the contest’s theme was “The Great War.” But there was plenty to see beside World War I, including figures, trucks and even sci-fi. FSM editors Mark Savage and Aaron Skinner traveled to Sumter, ate barbeque and seafood, and shot a lot of models. Here are a few of the hundreds that were on display.



To build a 1/35 scale Israeli Magach 6B, Ted mounted an A.E.F. Designs turret on Esci’s M60 hull; Friulmodel tracks and Legend details finished the build. He painted the model with Tamiya acrylics and weathered with acrylic washes and pigments.

Need more tanks? Check out additional photos and a video report from the show at OnlineExtras.



“This is my first freehand camo attempt,” says Chuck. Mimicking the full-size truck, Chuck handpainted the winter stripes on MiniArt’s 1/35 scale GAZ-AA truck using Vallejo off-white over AK Interactive Russian 4BO green. He weathered the cargo hauler with AK Interactive filters on the bed and hood; the mud is a mix of AK Interactive pigments and several shades of Ammo of Mig Jimenez Mud Splashes. 32 FineScale Modeler October 2016



Improving Takom’s 1/35 scale Mark IV Male, Mike added rivets to the observation hatch, a pistol port to the upper hull, stores, and personal gear. After spraying the models with Tamiya gray primer, he outlined hull plates with Vallejo burnt umber, then airbrushed Ammo of Mig Jimenez green moss. Vallejo oil earth provided the first layer of wear, followed by AK Interactive streaking grime. ◀


There are no half measures in Peter’s halftrack. He added Aber photo-etch and a lot of cargo from his spares box to Tamiya’s 1/35 scale SdKfz 9 Famo before painting it with Tamiya spray-can primer and acrylics. He used washes, filters, and sand-colored pigments to show the big halftrack as a maintenance vehicle. ▶ PHIL CAVENDER


To build a U.S. Marine Corps Pershing at the Chosin Reservoir in winter 1950, Phil equipped HobbyBoss’ 1/35 scale M26A1 with an Aber radio mount, Accurate Armour carbon-fiber antenna, Friulmodel metal tracks, Value Gear stowage, and Bison Decals markings. He built up the camouflage from a dark base using gradually lighter shades from Ammo of Mig Jimenez. Groundwork is vinyl spackle colored with Vallejo brown earth acrylic and covered with Woodland Scenics snow.




Jeff cut the top off the cab of AFV Club’s 1/35 scale AEC Matador and hooked it to Resicast’s 6" howitzer for a North African diorama. The truck is loaded with stowage from several places, including tarps made from Green Stuff epoxy putty. The hairspray technique allowed some of the British green to show through the sand-colored camouflage.



Modeling a Japanese Type 10 on maneuvers in Yakima, Wash., Derek added a ton of detail to Tamiya’s 1/35 scale kit, including Tetra and Def.Model photo-etch, a Voyager turned-metal barrel, Adler’s Nest turned-brass antenna, and Orochi working tracks. He sprayed the model with Tamiya clear metal primer to ensure paint stuck to the metal parts, then painted the camouflage with Tamiya acrylics. Post-shading and dry-brushing with Testors Model Master enamels, followed by artist’s oil washes and filters and Mig Productions pigments, finished the tank. 34 FineScale Modeler October 2016



Trumpeter’s 1/35 scale T-64BV is just Joseph’s second build in 20 years. He used Karaya tow cables and replaced the kit’s plastic unditching yard with a twig from his yard. Masking with frisket, he painted the Ukrainian tank with Ammo of Mig Jimenez Russian colors over Vallejo gray primer. The ground is Liquitex gloss medium gel decorated with dirt and pebbles, and Woodland Scenics trees and brush.



Playing off the web-footed appearance of Nitto’s 1/20 scale Sturmkröte, Georg extended the waterfowl metaphor by painting the gun and feet orange and airbrushing camo inspired by mallard ducks. Home-made decals of Scrooge McDuck finished the Maschinen Krieger close-assault vehicle.





Inspired by a film of U.S. Marines joyriding in Japanese amphibious tanks, Bob floated Dragon’s 1/72 scale Ka-Mi over the wreck of a Hasegawa Ki-61. He scratchbuilt interior details for the plane and converted Preiser Luftwaffe mechanics for the Marines. The base is an acrylic box topped with the textured cover from a light fixture; gloss acrylic medium produced the wake.



Jack pushed a ton of detail into Meng’s 1/35 scale D9R: a Voyager operator figure in the cab; a carbon-fiber antenna from Accurate Armour; Archer Dry Transfer bullet strike decals on the ballistic glass; exhaust modified to show action; and a bent flow guard on top of the blade. After base-coating the model with Testors Model Master black and rust, he sprinkled on salt. An airbrushed coat of Vallejo hemp camouflaged the dozer; removing the salt produced chipping. 36 FineScale Modeler October 2016

AMPS 2017 Next year’s gathering is April 20-22 at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Danbury, Conn. For more information, visit


To paint the complex camo on HobbyBoss’ 1/35 scale Schneider tank, David masked the colors with Silly Putty and hand-brushed the outlines. He added aftermarket cargo and a Model Cellar crewman taking a smoke break.



Pascal improved Dragon’s 1/35 scale King Tiger with Friulmodel metal tracks and an aluminum barrel to model a German heavy tank in France in 1944. He airbrushed the camouflage with Tamiya acrylics, then weathered it with post-shading, Mig Productions pigments, and artist’s-oil washes.


This comical vehicle is the AustinKégresse, arguably the first military halftrack. A dozen were built, and they served the Russian army from 1918 through the early ’20s. Tony detailed Armo’s 1/35 scale resin kit with lights, door and hood handles, and a rear storage box. After priming, he airbrushed the model with Testors Model Master Acryl British sand, then weathered with oil washes. The green camouflage was handpainted in thin layers. More washes and weathering powders finished the build. FSM


How to build a

BATTLEWAGON Deepening the art of Texas BY BILL PLUNK Launched in 1912, the USS Texas was already a throwback by World War II. But the Mighty T shone big and bright in both the Atlantic and the Pacific, earning five battle stars. Hailing from El Paso, Bill Plunk had to build Trumpeter’s 1/350 scale kit.


s World War II 60th anniversaries scroll up on the calendar, there has been an explosion of new kits of all kinds — especially ships in 1/350 scale. Such is Trumpeter’s kit of the New Yorkclass battleship USS Texas, BB-35 (No. 05340). Being from the Lone Star State myself, this was a must build. Even though the kit depicts features that date from October 1944, after a refit and subsequent transfer to the Pacific, I decided to depict Texas in the Measure 22 scheme she wore for most of the war while in the Atlantic Fleet. I grabbed an aftermarket set of Master turned-aluminum and brass barrels for New York-class ships, along with a copy of Squadron at Sea: USS Texas, by David Doyle, as my main reference. I knew the Measure 22 scheme would complicate things. So, the first order of business was a careful study of the instruction sheet and planning for a “modular” approach to assembly, painting, and finishing. The 37 steps outlined in the instructions will get it all together, but I knew I 38 FineScale Modeler October 2016

couldn’t follow them blindly from start to finish and get the best results. Skipping around within the steps was essential, so I developed a checkoff system on the instruction sheet to avoid missing anything.

nation of the kit-supplied bulkheads, rubber bands, and bar clamps, along with a combination of tube and liquid glue in straHull tegic spots. Left overnight in traction, the The primary assembly module was the hull. hull set nice and solid, 2. Split in half lengthwise, it had over-scale The stern details for the propulsion gear molded weld lines. I sanded these down to were added next. I replaced the kit’s plastic make them more indrive shafts with scale. Vertical lines lost brass rod for greater in the sanding were strength and durabilrescribed using a ity, 3. The shafts and Pounds of ordnance rudder were left metal ruler and a delivered by a two-gun removable to avoid sharp pushpin to damaging them during restore lost detail, 1. salvo from one of Getting a solid the rest of the build. Texas’ 14" gun turrets. join was a combiTest fits of the main


1 After sanding away overscale lines, Bill rescribes them. Though there are fancier tools, he gets it done with a pushpin and straightedge.

2 Persuasion, gentle and otherwise: Rubber bands help distribute the force of the clamps.


3 Straighter and stronger is the name of the game as brass rod replaces plastic propeller shafts.

5 After a flat black prime coat, Bill airbrushed insignia red for the antifouling red.

4 Segments of sprue runners spread and strengthen the hull for a better fit with the deck.

6 Masking the red and the proper amount of black, then airbrushing 5-N navy blue, masking again, and airbrushing 5-H haze gray at the top produced the boot stripe and upper-hull colors.




Bill airbrushed horizontal surfaces 20-B deck blue and vertical surfaces haze gray. Dry-brushing medium gray highlighted details.



Deck blue was followed by careful masking and an airbrushing of haze gray.

deck sections revealed the top edge of the hull needed to be spread slightly in places. I glued in thick segments of sprue runners as spacers, 4.

Commence painting All paints are Testors enamels except where otherwise noted. I began the hull with an airbrushed coat of Testors Model Master flat black enamel that served as a primer, pre-shading, and a simple way to create the boot stripe. I masked the bottom edge of the boot stripe and airbrushed insignia red to create the antifouling layer, 5. Then I masked the top side of the boot stripe and airbrushed 5-N navy blue, 6. Another round of masking, then airbrushing with 5-H haze gray, completed the hull’s Measure 22. I airbrushed sponsons for the 5" guns in the secondary armament separately to match the hull, since I couldn’t 40 FineScale Modeler October 2016

The 5" guns on the sponsons received Master Model brass barrels.

It’s more rubber bands, more clamps, and more ship as Bill glues down the decks.

cement secured them. Side bulges for the secondary gun mounts completed the first major module of the build.

install them until after the main deck was in place.

Hands on deck I painted and detailed the decks, airbrushOrder of assembly/painting When building ships with multiple decks ing wood areas with 20-B deck blue and and superstructure elements, I work from adding Ammo of Mig Jimenez’s “Blue the bottom up and the inside out. Filter for Dark Gray” to slightly shift the I started with the 02 deck components, tone from that of the adjoining steel decks. which include six 5" guns. Master Model’s Wearing an Optivisor and wielding a fine turned-brass gun barrels detail brush, I hand-brushed replaced the kit’s barrels, 8. gun tubs and other eleI airbrushed 02 deck comments on the deck with ponents and the 03 deck haze gray. To bring out above it with deck blue, then some of the molded detail Number of masked with small strips of in the deck blue, I drygrand pianos tape cut to size using a cutbrushed with medium equal in weight ting mat, metal ruler, and a gray, 7. to a two-gun With spacers sharp No. 11 blade, to protect installed, the decks fit odd angles and areas. Haze 14" salvo from tightly; liquid styrene gray was airbrushed where


USS Texas.

Pinwashed details




Bill assembles the forward superstructure from the bottom up, adding PE rails one level at a time.

The tripod comes last; if the decks are straight, the tripod is true.

A burnt umber pinwash lends subtle emphasis to molded details.




Throughout the ship, it’s deck blue, masking, then haze gray. But the funnel top received flat black.

Looking aft, PE and styrene details accumulate on the roundhouse and secondary tower.

Again, burnt umber pinwashes deepen recessed details.




Bill assembled and test-fitted the guns in their tubs, then pulled them back out for painting.

Airbrushed deck blue and hand-brushed haze gray readied the 40mm quads.

With the guns mounted, Bill stepped outside the tubs to erect more PE rails and ladders.

needed on the decks, 9, along with the No. 2 turret barbette and 5" guns. The guns were installed and the decks secured along with the No. 2 barbette. Rubber bands and clamps helped level everything while the glue set, 10.

dealt with separately, including adding photo-etched (PE) railings. The PE rails were individually shaped into their complex curves and angles, hand-painted, then installed, 11. Levels were permanently stacked one at a time; then PE ladders were formed, painted, and installed. Finally I could add the tripod legs and their supporting structures and railings. The passthrough holes in the deck ensured they were true, 12. With all the levels fully integrated, I airbrushed Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM) and applied a pinwash of thinned burnt umber enamel, picking out

details with a 10/0 pointed brush and touching up with clean thinner, 13. A coat of Testors lusterless flat clear dulled and unified the sheen. Then, I could permanently install the superstructure. I left off the fire-control structure for the time being.

Forward superstructure The forward superstructure builds up around a tripod mast and multiple deck levels. After preparing the main levels and structural components, I airbrushed deck blue, masked, and followed with haze gray. Three different levels of construction went into the superstructure module, each

Fitting and proper Moving aft on the 02 deck, several small structures, ammo lockers, and other details are installed, along with the funnel and the secondary tower. Tight spaces require testfitting to prevent problems. These were airbrushed deck blue, masked, and airbrushed haze gray; the funnel received extra





For now, the bow area provides plenty of space to mount 20mm guns, anchor chains, and various fittings.

Aluminum barrels replaced the plastic on the turrets. No. 1 and No. 2 are mounted temporarily on their barbettes for test-fitting.

At the stern, turrets 4 and 5 are lined up aft of the barbette for No. 3, which will have a seaplane catapult.




While he was airbrushing the turret and barrel tops deck blue, Bill brought more deck surface around for the same color.

Then he masked and airbrushed haze gray on the same pieces.

While building the mainmast tripod, Bill shuttled the subassembly in and out of position between turrets 3 and 4, checking position and clearance for all three elements.

tion for its cap, which I airbrushed flat black, 14. I shaped and hand-painted the PE roundhouse structures for the secondary tower and fire control before combining them with styrene components to complete their assembly, 15. PE railings around the back of the 02 deck were shaped, painted, and installed. A coat of PFM, followed by burnt umber pinwashes and a coat of lusterless flat, finished the small fittings as well as the funnel and secondary tower, 16. Then I mounted the funnel and tower on the deck. One of the goals of modular construction is to maintain ease of handling for as long as possible during the build. Moving out from the center of 02 and 03 decks, I saved the 40mm quad and single 3" guns for the anti-aircraft tubs for last because they are so delicate and easy to snag, 17. I replaced the 3" gun barrels with the Master turned-brass barrels. The 40mm guns were assembled in whole, including their PE back braces, for easier painting. I hand-painted the 3" guns haze gray; the 40mm guns were first airbrushed with deck blue, then hand-painted with their haze gray components and to pick out details such as the recoil springs, 18. Precise pinwashes of burnt umber enhanced other details before the guns were mounted in their tubs.

With this area secured, I shaped, painted, and installed PE between the tubs, using tweezers in some of the tight spaces, 19.

sion for the turrets, I touched up the aft superstructure and deck components at the same time as the turrets, 23. This also meant more masking before I could airbrush haze gray, 24. The turrets were fully assembled and left to sit overnight in their mounts so the guns’ elevations would hold. I kept the full turrets in all four mounts removable to maintain maximum flexibility throughout the rest of the deck detailing.

42 FineScale Modeler October 2016

The bow and big guns

The next module was the bow area, which received all of its various fittings as well as four of the single 20mm guns, which I built, painted, and mounted in their tubs, 20. Anchors, chains, and PE grate covers were hand-detailed and installed next to Dancing with details take advantage of the open space available The next module involved a complex dance before the big gun turrets come into play. with the No. 3 turret, the aft mainmast triIt’s not a battlewagon without big guns pod superstructure, and the No. 4 elevated — and Texas has ’em! Each of the five turturret barbette. rets mounts two 14" guns. Because No. 3 I built up the lower half of the mainturret also mounts a seaplane and catapult, mast tripod, including the railings and I saved it for last. details required to hold the tripod legs in I worked on the other four turrets as a alignment, 25. The No. 3 turret’s barrels group and replaced the kit’s barrels with were built up and test-fitted with the barMaster’s turned-aluminum barrels; I testrels aimed level, along fitted each turret to check the with the PE seaplane barrels for elevation clearance, 21, 22. catapult, to ensure The barrels were airbrushed everything would play Number of 14" with a primer coat of Italian nice, 26. shells fired by There were also 50 dark brown, reducing the likedifferent small fittings lihood of paint lifting after Texas in 34 masking for the Measure 22 minutes prior to installed on the aft main deck that needed to be scheme. Taking advantage of D-Day landings. included in the Measure the airbrush deck blue ses-




There’s not much extra room between No. 3 turret and its seaplane catapult, the mainmast tripod, and No. 4 turret.

Details continue to proliferate on the aft main deck, including Carley floats on the turret sides. Bill kept everything removable as long as he could to be able to test fits.




Guns upon guns: Turrets 2 and 4 each mount six 20mm weapons.

If you like PE, you’ll love the radar atop the aft tripod.

Boat cranes combine PE and kit plastic.




Bill painted the cranes off the model and kept them removable as long as he could to attach all the stuff around them.

All that fragile PE is why the fire-control structure was saved until the end. One false move could ruin that yardarm’s day.

Rigging with black EZ Line, Bill begins at the yardarm with lines for the signal flags.

22 scheme. I cleaned them up and prepped them for paint, along with the No. 3 turret’s parts. Then it was time again for deck blue, masking, and haze gray. The No. 3 turret was then fully assembled and the PE catapult components permanently attached. Keeping the tripod structure and the three aft turrets removable definitely made life a lot easier when it came to installing all those fittings on the rear deck! Small details, such as the Carley floats, were

hand-painted and added to the turret mounts at this stage, 27. The Mighty T bristles with 44 individual 20mm guns. I tackled these in several shifts, depending on where they were installed. The first batch of 18 were added to the No. 2 and No. 4 turrets, 28, along with the aft tripod and the elevated platforms at the tripod base. The tripod received the rest of its levels, including the large PE radar antenna, 29.

All five turrets and the tripod received their sequence of PFM, burnt umber pinwash, and lusterless flat. Then the No. 4 barbette was permanently installed. I built up the two boat cranes at this point, 30, and — once again — airbrushed them deck blue, masked, then airbrushed haze gray, 31. I kept them dry-fit to avoid complications. The mainmast tripod was permanently installed on the main deck in anticipation of the rigging.




Another line runs from fire control to the jack staff on the bow.

Rigging on the aft tripod includes a line that runs to the fire-control structure on the foremast.



Bill finally glued down the whale boats and their cranes.

More guns, anyone? Anti-aircraft guns line Texas’ stern. Bill placed the rails first, then dropped the guns into their tubs.

On to rigging and more fittings It was time to move to the foremast tripod and complete the fire-control structure. I installed all its PE details top and bottom, including the delicate yardarm, 32. These details were hand-painted with haze gray and treated with PFM, pinwash, and lusterless flat. I attached the top to the tripod with styrene cement and let it sit overnight so it would be rock solid for the rigging. I worked the rigging in multiple stages using EZ Line fine black elastic thread and super glue. First came the 10 signal-flag lines, run from the yardarm to the 03 deck, 33. Then I shaped, painted, and installed the bow railings along with turrets 1 and 2, which made it possible to run the rigging line to the jack staff at the bow, 34. The aft tripod was rigged next, 35, including the connecting line to the foremast fire-control structure. Doing that cleared the way to 44 FineScale Modeler October 2016

add the boat cranes and whale boats, 36.

ing Metalizer brass. Careful light passes with lusterless flat removed the gloss to Aft end and weathering make the sheen consistent. After I shaped, painted, and mounted the I airbrushed the hull with PFM and aft deck rails, I added the remaining aft decaled the hull number on the stern. I deck anti-aircraft guns to their tubs, 37. didn’t want to heavily weather Texas, so the Starting on one side at the boat cranes and focus was mostly below the waterline, 39. I applied dot filters using burnt umber, rust, working aft, I mounted the remaining four and leather to create streaking and tonal 40mm guns, a score of 20mm guns, and variations. A burnt four 3" guns in their tubs. Then umber pinwash on haze I added the final rigging line, gray portions of the hull connecting the mainmast to picked out portholes and the stern, and seated turrets 4 Range in miles other features, 40. and 5. I painted the propulof Texas’ 14" sion gear and rudder and And an OS2U, too installed them so they could guns; in yards That left just one last be included in the weatherwhile firing at detail: the OS2U ing, 38. A light wash of German thinned burnt umber Kingfisher seaplane for the defenses above bronzed the propellers and No. 3 turret. I dealt with it as toned down the non-buffa separate little build; it’s all Omaha Beach





Propulsion gear is attached to be part of the weathering below Texas’ waterline. Bill “bronzed” the propellers with a burnt umber wash.

Dot filters add depth and a degree of wear to Texas’ hull plates.

Burnt umber pinwashes pick out portholes and other molded features.




The Trumpeter kit features a Kingfisher seaplane molded in clear plastic.

With the visual aid of an Optivisor, Bill airbrushed the plane and hand-painted the canopy frame.

One more good reason to keep the turrets removable: It was easier to position the plane off the model.

PE crane arms, catapult Aluminum barrels for 14" guns

PE radar

Measure 22 disguises ship’s sheer

Brass propulsion gear PE rails all around

Brass gun barrels

Weathered hull

More than 100 years old, the USS Texas is a relic of the dreadnought era. But she fought with distinction through two world wars. Now a museum, she stands proud at her berth in San Jacinto State Park near Houston.

clear plastic and has its own paint scheme, 41, 42. I kept the pontoons separate and masked clear areas for the canopy with blue poster putty. The upper surfaces are airbrushed sea blue, light gray covers the undersides, and RLM 78 hellblau serves for intermediate blue midsections. After pulling the putty from the canopy, I airbrushed the plane with PFM and applied the decals, then over-coated with more PFM. I put

more putty on the canopy and airbrushed lusterless flat to dull the finish without fogging the canopy. I donned my trusty Optivisor and hand-painted the canopy frame with a steady hand and a 10/0 pointed brush. I added a scratchbuilt radio mast and a bit of EZ Line for the aerial, then carefully super glued the Kingfisher onto the catapult, 43. Then the No. 3 turret was permanently installed as the final module.

To provide a permanent stand for USS Texas, rather than the kit’s plain plastic base, I had drilled holes in the hull bottom at the beginning of the build in anticipation of this moment. I used a pair of aged copper drawer knobs that I found in the hardware aisle of a home improvement center. Once I screwed these into the hull bottom, USS Texas was on her feet and ready to report for duty! FSM



Remembering Dan Jayne Creative modeling beyond the norm


an Jayne, a masterful builder whose wizardry amazed and inspired FineScale Modeler readers for more than a decade, has passed away. He was 62. Dan’s September 2004 FSM debut immediately drew an encore in the following issue. The second article was an effort to show more of the construction and better describe the builds — but there was only so much we could do to explain models that few would attempt, let alone equal.

More at Visit us to see more of Dan’s models, selected from his collection of hundreds — all of them extraordinary.

Former FSM senior editor Paul Boyer developed those first feature stories. He recalls, “Dan was not one for aftermarket parts. He would load models with scratchbuilt details beyond the usual. It wasn’t just the cockpit or the engine. He went beyond that to the structural elements with eye-popping detail. “It wasn’t just one or two models, either. It was dozens.” Instrumental in bringing Dan’s work to FSM was his longtime friend, photographer Chuck Stewart, who recently visited the Jayne residence to shoot a sampling of models. Chuck says, “At our local club meeting, which was attended by Dan’s wife and daughter, we went through each photo and tried to recall what kit he might have started with

and any interesting footnotes. (The photo captions) may not be entirely accurate, but we had a blast trying to come up with the best name for each of the models!” We’ve had a blast looking at

these, too — as well as the many that we already were keeping on file awaiting publication. In accordance with his family’s wishes, we’ll continue to share Dan’s works with our readers and his friends.

Suggestions for names are welcome: Chuck says, “Dan may have started with some Star Wars walker thingy. But it has been so extensively modified, who knows. Impressive firepower!”

46 FineScale Modeler October 2016

F4F-4 Wildcat cutaway, 1/32 scale Trumpeter

A6M2b Zero cutaway, 1/32 scale Tamiya: “Put this and the Wildcat together and you have a Pacific War dogfight,” Chuck says.


MEMORIAL Viking longboat (perhaps Aoshima or Imai) with 1/72 scale Emhar figures: “I just threw this in,” says Chuck. “For years, Dan and I would place or hide ‘Hi Chuck’ or ‘Hi Dan’ notes in or on our models. It always got a laugh when they were spotted by the guys. If you look closely, you’ll see what I mean.”

U.S. Coast Guard cutter Raritan, 1/87 scale Lindberg tug: “Highly kitbashed to accurately reflect the Raritan,” Chuck says. The model was a sentimental favorite: Dan served aboard Raritan when he was in the Coast Guard. He met his wife, Judy, while stationed at Grand Haven, Mich.

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F-18 snow speeder: Again, Chuck and his friends were not sure of the kit elements or the scale, although chances are it’s 1/32 scale with some Macross elements. “Does it matter?” Chuck asks.

CAT D890 logger: Chuck says, “As with several of Dan’s creations, this started life as a very large, round plastic Christmas tree ornament. I’d guess the human logger feels like John Henry being replaced by a steam drill.”

Robocycle: “Dan at his creative best,” says Chuck. “Note all the tank parts.”

Fokker D. VII cutaway, possibly Revell’s 1/28 scale kit: “Dan’s last boss was a greatgrandson of Fokker,” Chuck says.


MEMORIAL Pratt chopper: Obviously, a Pratt & Whitney radial engine on a chopper. “I’m told somebody really did this,” Chuck says. Real or not, there are examples on the Internet; you can Google and decide for yourself.

Actually, it was Dan who named this jet truck dragster the MAN Thumptruck. It looks to be based on Italeri’s 1/24 scale MAN F90.

P-38 tricycle racer: “Not sure of the kit, but it’s so cool!” Chuck says. FSM

READER TIPS By Mark Savage



Create your own glue station

Airbrush cleaning made simple I have found a useful tool for cleaning my airbrush’s passageways — a dental pick. You can find these at a grocery store, drugstore, or most discount chains that sell dental products. The brush is small enough to fit into the tight recesses of an airbrush. I just put a little alcohol in the cup and use the brush to clean it. Quick and easy, and these are lowcost brushes. – Tyler Smith Columbia, S.C.

To keep my workbench tidy I made a glue station that I can use when applying glues or putty. I used the plastic lid from a can of peanuts, a small piece of close-cell packing foam, and double-sided carpet tape (or any strong double-sided tape). Using the plastic lid, I marked the packing foam, 1, then applied a strip of carpet tape to the foam’s underside and cut out the shape. The foam was then attached to the plastic lid. You’ll notice the needles, pins, and wires that I use to apply varying adhesives and putties, 2. In that photo, the left glue station is one that I have been using for several weeks; the other is new. When the glue station gets too messy, I just peel off the foam shape, toss the lid, and reapply the foam to a new lid. Oh, and all those peanuts are a tasty bonus at the workbench! – Terry Davis Bremerton, Wash.

Makeup, er, modeling tips Saw Robert Jones’ tip about Wonder Wedges in the May 2016 issue, and I can vouch for them, too. Even more useful than Wonder Wedges, though, are the mixed packages of foam makeup sponges that come in round, square, and rectangular shapes, as well as wedges. They’re great for mopping up small spills of paint or glue. I also like to use them as little cushions for working on small painted parts where I don’t want to scratch the finish. My favorite use is cutting them in two or three pieces and using them to wipe the top of the paint bottle after removing the lid — far less messy than using a paper towel or napkin, and there are no little HAVE A TIP OR TECHNIQUE TO SHARE? Send a brief description along with a photo to [email protected], or visit FineScale. com and click on “Contact Us.” Tips are paid for upon publication; if you live in the U.S., we’ll need your Social Security number to pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the text and images upon payment.

fibers to get in the paint. You can even use them around the house. I’m using five makeup sponges to silence a vibrating air-conditioning vent in my apartment. – James Barton Phoenix, Ariz.

shape. I find this useful when creating rigid, draped fabrics. I keep discovering new ways to use this material. I bet you will, too. – Ned Barnett Las Vegas, Nev.

Quick hitters: Painting tires … Creating scale fabric I have long sought the best way of creating “scale” fabric. Others have recommended tissue and diluted white glue, but I found that too fragile. Then I took a stab at treated computer-screen wipes, and found them ideal. But I wasn’t satisfied, so I moved on to medicated skin-cleaner sheets and wet wipes. They work well and, with different weaves, each has its own uses. I dry the sheets, then do one of two things: To cover solid forms (such as sheets on a medical stretcher), I use white glue or carpenter’s glue to fix the fabric to the plastic object. Or, when I need specific shapes, I use Woodland Scenic’s “scenic cement,” soaking the fabric before draping it over a form. When it’s nearly dry, I pull the fabric away from the form; the fabric retains its

To easily add a subtle but nice detail to tires, I paint the sidewalls with gloss rubber and the tread with flat rubber. This distinguishes the two surfaces and gives the tires a cared-for but used look. – Bill Hargie Jacksonville, Fla.

… and trimming resin parts I’ve started building 1/72 scale resin aircraft, and found their tiny brittle parts hard to shape and fit on my usual cutting mats. Then I turned over a cork coffee coaster and found the little parts will sit still while being cut, and without cracking. The small elevation over my bench seems just right. When finished, I simply wipe dust off the coaster into a plastic bag. – John Aitken Meadow Creek, B.C., Canada


WORKBENCH REVIEWS FSM experts build and evaluate new kits

Over the moon about MPC’s big Eagle


ans of Gerry Anderson’s only liveaction TV series Space: 1999 have long desired a big-scale kit of the iconic Eagle transporter. The utilitarian craft, clearly inspired by the Apollo program, were arguably one of the shortlived sci-fi show’s highlights. For many years, the only models were MPC’s 1/72 scale kit — re-issued several times by Airfix and AMT/Ertl — and an Imai offering in 1/110 scale. There has been at least one resin 1/48 scale Eagle. The original miniatures were 1/24 scale, chosen for the availability of scale items such as ladders and because it worked well for filming. MPC’s model is half that size, so it scales to 1/48 and is about 22" long. The major components are molded in white and the landing gear and engines' 52 FineScale Modeler October 2016

bells are gray. In theory, you could build it without painting. Detailed color and decal instructions are given on the sides of the box's lower tray. The design of the engine bells impressed me. Instead of splitting them along the centerline, the components consist of two rings that stack along seams. This eliminates ugly seams. If you prefer one-piece bells that don’t even need paint, MPC offers two metal detail sets. The Deluxe Accessory Pack (No. MKA014; $137.99) replaces the main engines, the VTOL engines, and the landing-gear oleo struts with terrific metal parts. The Small Metal Parts Pack (MKA016; $29.99) includes 16 turned-aluminum RCS thrusters. I used both sets on my build. Unlike the smaller kits, this one features

impressive detail not seen before in plastic Eagles. The frame around the connectors is open revealing the internal structure. The moldings are good and you can see the model parts used by the original prop builders, including German tank engine decks and lunar modules. The surface detail is first-rate with sharp edges and clean lines, but the framing that links the major sections is marked by obvious mold seams. They aren’t difficult to remove — a few scrapes with a knife and sanding are all that's needed — but there are a lot of struts in the model. I filled ejector-pin marks on many of the struts, too, so initial construction is slow. Fits are mostly good, but I used filler on the boxes, landing-gear pods, feet, and some strut junctions.

The cockpit includes a detailed back wall with a door and vents, and two pilots mounted on massive posts. No seats or instrument panel are provided, but the tiny windshields hide the omissions. I clamped the side equipment packages (parts Q21 and Q22) to get a better fit, but they needed considerable cleanup, especially the flat shelves in the middle, to look OK. On the other hand, the tanks for the propulsion system join perfectly. The frame they fit into is fiddly to assemble, but sturdy once built. The passenger pod goes together quickly, but I used filler around the ends to refine the joints. I sprayed light gray, then masked random panels and squares. Tamiya spray-can white primer finished the ship. The decals provide a lot of panels and

stencils and optional Moonbase Alpha insignia to match different filming miniatures as well as the black areas around the windows and engines. They performed well with help from Microscale solutions. I added the engines and landing gear. The springs for the legs fit precisely and the working suspension performs well. But the fits are close so take care not to foul the mechanism with glue. The Eagle is not a difficult build, but it can’t be rushed either because of the need to clean up most of the parts before assembly. The finished model is big, sturdy, and impressive and certainly looks the part. Kudos to the researchers and designers for giving us an Eagle to be proud of. – Aaron Skinner

Kit: No. MPC825 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: MPC, Cost: $113.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 311 parts (4 metal), decals Pros: Impressive size and detail; good instructions; sprung landing gear Cons: Moderate mold seams on almost every part require cleanup; squishy fits



ICM Junkers Ju 88A-5


CM’s new-tool Ju 88A-5 is a really nice model. For starters, I liked the sturdy cardboard kit box with attached lid, and its separate box top with the art and labeling. The kit comprises six sprues of light gray plastic and one clear sprue. All surface detail is engraved, consistent, and very fine — quality that is as good as it gets for an injection-molded kit. There was no flash on any of the parts. The canopies were crystalclear with raised framing, a nice touch that makes masking a little easier. Cockpit detail was also well done, with pilot and radio-operator seats featuring multiple parts, including seat-adjustment levers. The instrument panel had raised detail for the bezels, with instrument faces supplied as decals. The horizontal stabilizers and rudder are posable but, alas, not the ailerons — even though they and the flaps were molded separately.

The kit also includes two complete Jumo engines and the option of leaving cowl panels off to display them. The 24-page instruction book has color illustrations on the front and back pages. I found the exploded-view assembly steps easy to follow, and I appreciated seeing the paint and decal callouts printed in red. Paint-color callouts were for Testors Model Master colors only, but ICM includes color descriptions to make it easy to pick other brands. There are decals for four versions. No swastikas are provided so I used some from my spares; the model didn’t look right without them. Construction was straightforward, beginning with the cockpit. My only complaint was with the pilot’s seat being molded in halves it was difficult to clean up the seam running up the center of the “bucket.” No seat belts were provided. With the greenhouse canopy, adding belts would make the interior pop.

The rest of the kit fit together with few problems. The seams only needed a little sanding to make them disappear. I did notice a couple of fine sink marks just behind the canopy that needed a little attention. With the fuselage and wing assembled, I moved to the engines. I was a little worried about how all of the parts would go together but, as it turns out, needlessly — everything fit perfectly. Too bad most of the engine detail cannot be seen, even with the cowl panels off. Once I had the basic kit together it was time for the tedious masking of the clear parts. I started with Tamiya tape but switched to Bare-Metal Foil for the rest. I was impressed with the fit of all the clear parts. I used GSI Creos Mr. Color Luftwaffe paints mixed with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. After giving the paint a day or so to dry,

AFV Club Husky Mk.III VMMD


ddressing the widespread problem of mines in Iraq and Afghanistan, the United States found a solution with the South African-built Husky Vehicle Mounted Mine Detector (VMMD). The Husky can mark mines in a 3-meter path for following vehicles to remove. Its modular design allows the vehicle to be rapidly repaired in the field, and, if a mine is detonated by the Husky, high ground clearance and a V-shaped hull that deflects the force of a blast away from it gives the driver a better chance of surviving. AFV Club’s Husky MK.III is a multimedia affair with 313 parts in dark yellow plastic, 13 clear parts for lights and windows, a small photo-etch (PE) fret, and vinyl electric cables and tires. The level of detail is excellent, with even the smallest items well-represented. However, almost every part has ejector-pin marks, no matter how small, and sink marks mar several parts. Both E sprues include extra nuts and bolts not mentioned in the directions. However, the comprehensive instructions do include a parts list, history, and a marking sheet with colors given for GSI Creos, Humbrol, Revell, and LifeColor paints. Small-detail paint colors are called out along the way. The directions say to assemble the vehicle by building each of its three 54 FineScale Modeler October 2016

main modules: body, front-, and rear-suspension units. Construction starts with the driver’s cabin. This is fairly complete and easily seen if the upper hatches are open. According to my references, the control panel to the driver’s left is reversed from the actual vehicle. This would be hard to fix without major surgery. I strayed from the directions by assembling the driver’s compartment without the floor panel. This allowed me to paint all the interior detail later. I had trouble getting the rear of the driver’s compartment to fit and ended up needing a little filler. You have a choice of an open or closed hatch on top of the vehicle; each option requires different parts, so you need to decide while assembling the cabin. I left the cabin off the body until painting was complete. The rest of the body assembly is straightforward, but I recommend assembling all major components on the lower body at once using slow-setting glue. This allows you to ensure everything is aligned. Oddly, clear parts are included for the lights on the bumpers but not the side and rear spotlight, which are molded solid. The air filter and mine-detection units were also left off as subassemblies. Next, the front-suspension module: No major surprises, though, in Step 25, Part

B29 is actually B27. The rear module comes next; make sure to place parts in the proper order on the rear frame or the wiring harness and stairs will not fit. I chose to add all the vinyl hoses to the two suspension modules, figuring it would be nearly impossible after the model was painted. I had to enlarge many of the locator holes for the vinyl hoses and used liquid styrene cement to attach the vinyl to the styrene. The wiring harness DA2 was too long to fit the frame; I had to bend the cables. This caused breakage before I even painted my model, and by the end almost every vinyl cable broke. The cable for the minedetector units also had to be shortened. User error, perhaps, but I could not figure it out. Fine solder may be a better option. The vinyl tires have excellent detail, including sidewall markings, but you need to use a brand-new blade to remove the center of the tires. Late in the build, I decided to glue the two suspension modules to the body instead of leaving them as subassemblies. They are both open, allowing access for airbrushing, and because the brittle plastic easily broke with even a little pressure, I figured it was easier to fix broken parts before painting. Two choices of marking are provided, both being in U.S. Army sand (FS33531). For this color, I base-coated with Tamiya

Kit: No. 48232 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: ICM, Price: $54.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 251 parts, decals Pros: Nice instructions; excellent fits; high level of detail Cons: Minor sink marks behind the cockpit; no seat belts for the cockpit

I put on a gloss coat of Mr. Super Clear; it’s expensive, but it makes for a clear, durable finish, and it dries super fast. The nicely printed decals have a fine flat finish. They went on with no trouble, though I had to be careful moving them around because they are thin and tear easily. During decaling I discovered the only

flaw in the kit’s instructions.They failed to mention that the dive brakes need to be left off until after the underwing crosses are placed. There was no way to get the decals to settle down over the dive brakes. (ICM thoughtfully included decals to go on top of the speed-brake slats, but I missed that during my build!)

Overall I found ICM’s Ju 88A-5 an enjoyable model to build. With excellent fit, really nice instructions, and great details, I would recommend this kit to modelers intermediate and up. Hopefully, the aftermarket will release some canopy masks to make building it even sweeter. – Jon Hergenrother

Kit: No. 35347 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: AFV Club, Price: $85 Comments: Injection-molded, 360 parts (10 PE, 24 vinyl), decals Pros: Good detail on vinyl tires; detailed interior; constructed like the real vehicle Cons: Knockout marks on every part, armor glass needs to be painted, vinyl hoses easy to break

buff (XF-57) and followed with highlights of AK Interactive’s U.S. modern vehicle color (AK122). Clear parts for the windows do not have any of the green tint of armor glass as shown on the box cover. I painted them with Tamiya enamel clear green (X-25) thinned with Tamiya enamel thinner (X-20) instead of my usual lacquer thinner to avoid crazing the clear styrene. It crazed anyway. In hindsight, I probably should have used an acrylic, such as Ammo of Mig Jimenez crystal periscope green (A. MIG0096).

Humbrol, Vallejo, and Ammo paints were used for the rest of the detail painting and weathering. The difference between the two marking choices is that one has low visibility markings. I chose the high visibility markings because I liked how the blue placards stood out. The decals were easy to work with and showed no signs of silvering under a flat coat. With the open hatch, I would like to have seen decals for gauges in the driver’s compartment. If you want to add extra detail or need help with painting or parts placement, Husky VMMD by Ralph Zwilling

(Tankograd, no ISBN) will be a big help. Operational vehicles are festooned with spotlights and anti-IED devices, and some have bar armor and ground penetration radar. In the aftermarket, Legend Productions has already released the ground-penetrating radar unit (LF1331) as well as spotlight kits. This is not a model for the inexperienced; even with a relatively low parts count it took me 39 hours, due in large part to the vinyl hoses (possibly my error) and filling all those knockout marks. – Mike Scharf



Hasegawa IJN Shimakaze


apable of a 15-torpedo broadside using three quintuple torpedo mounts, the Shimakaze could unleash 43.5 tons of torpedoes in a single salvo. The lead ship of a planned 16-ship class of super-destroyers, Shimakaze would be the only one finished; it proved to be too complex for Japan’s industrial capabilities as World War II dragged on. Hasegawa’s limited-edition kit depicts Shimakaze’s final configuration with increased anti-aircraft armament at the Battle of Leyte Gulf in October 1944. The

Kit: No. Z29 Scale: 1/350 Manufacturer: Hasegawa, Price: $69.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 259 parts, decals Pros: Good parts and fits; terrific engineering for deck/hull assembly; great rigging plan Cons: Shallow sink marks inside splinter shields

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ship was sunk at the Battle of Ormac Bay a few weeks later. The parts are molded in five colors — gray, red, brown, clear, and brass-plated — with crisp raised and recessed details and few defects. Clear, easy to follow instructions, included references to Hasegawa’s photoetch detail set (No. QG57), which I didn’t use. But I did apply Hasegawa’s self-adhesive linoleum deck (No. QG58). Precut sections cover the fore and aft decks and have the brass expansion joints printed on. Using these decks forced me to rethink my building order. First, the decking can be pulled up by masking tape, so in steps 11 and 15, I assembled and painted the bridge and aft wheelhouse and attached them after the decks were down. Second, I removed the molded lines on the plastic parts so the deck would lay flat and seal. Assembly is straightforward and progressed with few problems. Step 1 clearly indicates holes to be opened to mount the 14 extra 25mm anti-aircraft guns. The upper deck curves to match the hull. Five pegs along the centerline attach the upper and lower hulls. The fit is firm and snug and I didn’t need to use glue or filler around the deck edges. Very nice! The instructions number the sequence of part attachment in steps and include multiple views of how parts interact, which eases assembly.

The bridge has nine binoculars or binnacles, all of which are undercover but visible through the windows. A decal provides bridge window frames. The design of the parts for the aft wheel house impressed me. The joints are at the corners, preventing seams often found on the centerline — nice, logical engineering. Step 22 adds myriad deck winches, depth-charge launchers, and ammo lockers, but a top view aids location. Assembly of the complex masts span three steps. I added the 7-meter cutters and 8-meter boat helped by Step 34’s clear instructions for the davits, boat cradles, and boats. I found shallow sink marks inside the splinter shields of the 14 single 25mm guns, but decided they would be mostly invisible and left them. The painting and decal instructions are supplemented by two pages of rigging diagrams. Be warned: To rig as shown, you will need the PE upgrade. Using stretched sprue, I rigged as much as possible without scratchbuilding parts. The model measures within 1mm in length and spot on for width. Hasegawa’a Shimakaze provides a solid foundation for anyone interested in upgrading and superdetailing. I spent 37 hours on mine, a bit more than normal, but that includes time experimenting with the selfadhesive deck. – Mark Karolus

Trumpeter MT-LB


he MT-LB is one of the more obscure Soviet tracked vehicles but has seen a lot of use. A jack of all trades, the MT-LB has acted as an artillery tractor, armored personnel carrier, and weapons platform to name a few roles. Active in Soviet and Russian service since the 1970s, many MT-LB were supplied to other armies and have seen action in conflicts around the world. Trumpeter’s kit is most welcome as only the second MT-LB in 1/35th scale (SKIF produced the other). The kit is jammed with details, including a complete interior from the transmission at the front to the engine and finishing with the troop compartment in the rear. All of the hatches are separate parts and clear parts provide periscopes, windows, and headlights. There are three photo-etched frets. The number of unused parts indicate Trumpeter plans other versions. The one-piece lower hull provides a solid foundation for the interior. The separate suspension arms need attention during installation. There’s play in their alignment that will interfere with

track assembly. The road wheels assemble from two pieces and have nice detail, particularly on the tires. The individual-link tracks are not designed to be workable and feature separate guide horns – two per link. I spent many tedious hours assembling the tracks. The engine is a kit in its own right — I lost count of the number of parts that went into building it — and it is impressive when complete. The MT-LB has unique water deflectors rear of each track. These are given as PE and each comprises 18 parts and would be challenging to assemble as most of the pieces need to be bent to fit. It would have been nice if Trumpeter had provided plastic alternatives. Photos of operational vehicles show them to be removed or torn off in action. I chose this approach when building my model and left them off ! I painted my MT-LB with a combination of Tamiya and Ammo of Mig Jimenez paints. A color painting guide is included, but no information is provided about the camouflage options. Decals are included for six of the eight options – two have no markings. These

Kit: No. 5578 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Trumpeter, Price: $94.95 Comments: Injection-molded, 1,321 parts (104 PE), decals Pros: Comprehensive interior detail Cons: Separate guide horns complicate tracks; no plastic alternatives for many PE parts

applied well on a gloss base with a bit of help from setting solution. I completed my MT-LB in 55 hours. It was not a quick build as there are more than 1,300 parts, and it’s not a project for lessexperienced modelers. On the other hand, if you’re a fan of modern Soviet and Russian armor, you will want to give this Trumpeter kit a try. – Jim Zeske



IsraCast T-6 Texan II


he Beechcraft Texan II was derived from the Pilatus PC-9 and won the Joint Primary Aircraft Training System ( JPATS) competition in the 1990s. It is the current basic trainer for the U.S. Air Force, replacing the Cessna T-37B, and the primary trainer for the U.S. Navy, replacing the Beechcraft T-34C Turbo Mentor. It also serves several air arms around the world in trainer and light-attack roles. IsraCast’s resin kit provides a one-piece fuselage with cockpit floors, bulkheads, and consoles inside, and a one-piece wing with wheel wells molded in. Exterior detail is fine, but with soft recessed lines. Separate fuselage nose, fin, horizontal stabilizers, ejection seats, main wheels, choice of two different instrument panels and coamings, propeller spinner and blades, and other

Kit: No. ISC72006 Scale: 1/72 Manufacturer: IsraCast, Price: $45 Comments: Cast-resin, 56 parts (12 PE, 3 white-metal, 1 vacuum-formed), decals Pros: One-piece fuselage and one-piece wing; gorgeous decals Cons: Vacuumformed canopy shows flaws and fits poorly; undersized nose wheel; some decal items missing, some oversized

58 FineScale Modeler October 2016

small parts are also cast in resin. The main landing-gear struts and the nose gear with wheel are cast in white metal. Details such as main-gear doors, speed brake, and landing-gear oleo scissors are photo-etched. A one-piece vacuum-formed canopy is provided, and an impressive decal sheet rounds out the package. With so few parts and simplified assembly, fit problems were minimal. But assembly was not without problems. Assembly steps are shown in poor-quality black-andwhite photos with numbers pointing to parts already in place. Instrument-panel and console detail is provided by decals, but the console decals were wider than the molded-in consoles. In Step 3, the instructions suggest drilling out “as much as you can” of the forward fuselage to allow room for lead weight. However, there’s no mention of how much weight is needed. I bored out until the bit started to break into the front cockpit bulkhead, then filled the new cavity with lead bird shot anchored with super glue. It ended up being not nearly enough to balance the finished model, so I made a fine “spring tail” from stretched clear sprue to hold the tail up. Some filling and sanding was needed after adding the nose to the fuselage and around the joints of the fin and stabilizer. More errors in the instructions occur with the main landing gear. Both the strut assemblies in Step 5 and the doors in Step 6 are mislabeled — left should be right, etc. The struts should have the scissors forward and the axles outboard on your finished model. Struts and doors are shown properly installed in Step 8. The kit’s vacuum-formed canopy was subpar, with a lot of ripples and bumps. It

also didn’t fit well to the fuselage, especially at the wider rear bulkhead. The comprehensive decal sheet provides tail markings for seven different Air Force training units, but I found the colored tailbands were too long to fit on the fin. The sheet also provides standard Navy trainers and two U.S. naval aviation centennial schemes, along with markings for aircraft serving Canada, Greece, Iraq, Israel, Mexico, Morocco, and New Zealand. The paint scheme of the USAF bird I built is fairly simple — gloss white topside with gloss insignia blue on the underside. A red cheatline is provided as a decal with a white border to help keep it straight. I painted my model with gloss enamels and used Alclad II chrome over gloss black for the spinner. Aftermarket silver striping decals cover the leading edges. There are a few errors to watch out for on IsraCast’s eight-page color and markings guide. On the orange-and-white Navy plane, the ventral stabilizer is shown white on one side, orange on the other; it should be white on both. On the Air Force craft, the diagrams omit the aluminum leading edges of the stabilizer in the top view. Although well-printed, the decals were thin and translucent, showing any color demarcations underneath. The sheet has four thin, gray strips for canopy detonation cords, but the instructions show six strips. I used only the top centerline pieces. Checking the finished model, it scales well with published dimensions. But the nose wheel is noticeably undersized. I spent more time painting and decaling than building, with about 26 hours total. Overall, the model is not terribly complex. But assembling the resin, metal, and vacuum-formed parts requires experience. – Paul Boyer

Moebius Batman v Superman Batmobile


he latest cinematic chapter in the Batman saga —Batman v Superman: Dawn of Justice — means a new Batmobile. The Caped Crusader’s military-style Tumbler of the Dark Knight trilogy has been replaced with a lower, sleeker vehicle. It’s barely visible in the rainy gloom of the film, but Moebius released a kit before the movie premiered. Molded in medium gray plastic, the parts show nice recessed panel lines and no flash or awkward ejector-pin marks. Some of the mold seams and edges need cleanup, mostly quick swipes with a sanding stick, to ensure a snug fit. A small clear sprue supplies the wraparound windshield and headlights, and the tires are sturdy-but-soft vinyl with good tread. Interior detail includes bucket seats, controls, and a dashboard. The latter has four circular bezels but no dials. I fitted Detail Master film and photo-etched dials for realism. The vehicle’s design required painting in subassemblies and steps. Construction starts with the genericlooking engine comprised of body halves and a head with molded pipes. The power plant is barely visible through the open rear body, so I painted the block black and the pipes aluminum. I added the transaxle to the chassis, but left the engine and exhaust off for painting. I assembled the front suspension and axles and sprayed it flat black. I painted the

interior components separately and airbrushed the wheels gloss black before fitting the tires. A quick rub with sandpaper knocked the shine off the vinyl. I left the wheels off until near the end of the build. Major body subassembliesm were painted before being attached to the car include: chassis; the inner front fenders; final drives; canopy; gun turret; upper body; wings; and rear struts. Everything fit OK, although I used a little filler to refine the rear wings. To ensure alignment of the rear struts in Step 7, I used slow-setting liquid glue and placed the assembly into its mounting holes on the transaxle to dry. The kit calls for a dark metallic finish, so I mixed equal parts Tamiya flat black and gunmetal. After airbrushing the components, I added the side panels. I sprayed the body color again to touchup the joins. Repeating that process after each major step was time-consuming, but necessary for a clean build. Follow the sequence in Step 8 precisely — upper body, wing support, then interior — as you can’t get the struts to fit once the interior is attached. After gluing, I sanded the join along the sides of the intakes behind the cockpit and airbrushed the body color for a seamless appearance. Sharp frames make masking the windshield a snap. I clamped it to the canopy as the glue set because it didn’t want to sit in the opening just right. Note that you can leave the canopy loose to show the interior, but it doesn’t open the same way on the full-size Batmobile.

Kit: No. 964 Scale: 1/25 Manufacturer: Moebius, Price: $44.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 85 parts (4 vinyl) Pros: Good engineering and fits; solid finished model Cons: Fiddly wing attachments require patience

The rear wings posed the only challenge. Five struts attach each to the car, but not at the same angle. After widening holes in the wings for the coilovers (parts 7 and 8), I slid the wings over those parts from the front. Then, using fine tweezers to reach the struts in the narrow space, I worked the wings over the remaining struts. Patience pays off and the wings are sturdy once the glue dries. Impressively large describes the finished model, and the gunmetal finish contrasts nicely with the black finish on other Batmobiles. Easy assembly means you can focus on the complicated painting process. – Aaron Skinner



RS Models DFS 230


he Deutsche Forschungsanstalt für Segelflug (DFS) 230 is another addition to RS Models’ ever-growing 1/72 scale range. This glider was widely used for troop and cargo transport during World War II. The kit contains three plastic bags. One is for two plastic sprues, roughly molded in beige. Although exterior details are sharp and look true to scale — especially the ribbing in the wings — the interior details are murky, with large ejector-pin marks in critical areas. There aren’t many interior plastic

Kit: No. 92187 Scale: 1/72 Manufacturer: RS Models, Price: $39.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 94 pieces (45 PE, 1 film), decals Pros: Nice PE for interior; sharply molded exterior details Cons: Interior molded plastic not as sharp; tiny parts hard to handle; fragile decals

60 FineScale Modeler October 2016

parts, though. The control stick, pilot’s seat, floor, and seat cushions are it. The rest — seat belts, instrument panel with Mylar dials, seat mounts and backs — are all beautiful, true-to-scale photo-etch (PE). The clear parts are a kit weakness. The main canopy looks good, but the small side windows are thick and cloudy. Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish helped a bit, but I believe either replacing them or sanding them down might be best. They are individually molded, not the strip of windows common in this type of multiwindow aircraft. When cementing the fuselage halves, remove the prominent ejector-pin marks in the forward-most section or the floorboard will not fit properly. Also, when gluing the pilot’s seat to the PE framework, remember it is extremely delicate and bends easily. I recommend cementing the seat in after the fuselage is joined. Cleanup is essential on all plastic parts, even as small as they are. But most of the construction is straightforward. Removing the locating tabs for the wings produced a better fit onto the fuselage. Finally, before paint, it was time to attach the exterior PE bits, which included gunsights, pitot tubes, and horns on the control surfaces. The most trouble I had with this kit — and it was me, not RS Models’ fault — was the control horns.

They are small and realistic, and I had a hard time placing them because the instructions don’t show exact locations. But mainly I lost more than half of them off the tips of my tweezers. I tried to fabricate my own, but to no avail. In the end, I left them off. The painting diagram is on the back of the box. No paint brand is referenced, just RLM dark green, black green, and light blue. Fortunately I have all those colors. One of three versions can be built: Unternehmen Rösselsprung (which is portrayed on the box cover); Operation Vassieux-en-Vercors, July 1944; and Sonderkommando Dora, North Africa, 1942. I decided to build the Vercors version for several reasons, but I’ll just say it was the most colorful. Painting was a breeze. But the decals? The print quality was good and they laid down beautifully, but they are extremely fragile. The identification numbers for the version I wanted to build were destroyed while I was placing them, so I used another set. Bummer. No swastikas were provided. In conclusion, the kit is typical of this series of models — a bit rough around the edges. But the problems I had were 90% my fault, and I would recommend this kit to experienced builders. It does build into a nice little glider. – Caleb Horn


Sheperd Paine’s legacy continues in his final book, which features some of the best armor modelers in the world. Covering all aspects of armor building — including doing research, basic kit assembly, painting and decaling, weathering, creating battle damage, adding equipment, and posing and painting figures, as well as diorama planning — modelers of all skill levels will find tips and techniques to use on their latest builds.

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Which way do you do panel lines?


My question is about accentuating panel lines. If I’m using a wash to add depth to those lines, I really want the wash to go into the lines but not onto surrounding surfaces. I have a robot painted with Vallejo acrylic colors. Should I clear-coat with a lacquer spray? Would an acrylic or enamel wash be better? There seems to be so many ways of doing washes. – Joseph Guaimano Manasquan, N.J.


In smaller scales (1/72, 1/144), some modelers use pencil for a subtle effect, 1. Guided either by the recessed lines, tape, or a flexible straightedge, you can pull the pencil through the panel lines and leave surrounding areas clean. It’s also

easy to correct; just use a clean eraser. You don’t have to apply a clear coat first, but it may make it easier to correct. A clear coat will seal this work. For a wash, what you do depends on what is already on the surfaces. A clear gloss coat,

while not mandatory, helps washes flow more easily along recessed lines and keep the surroundings clean. You can apply a clear lacquer or clear acrylic/water-based coat. Whether base coats are lacquer or acrylic, I favor an acrylic gloss coat; it’s not as “hot” as lacquer and so is less likely to damage what’s underneath. For clear gloss, I use Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (formerly Future); it is relatively inert, leaving underlying paint intact. Now, this is key: Make doubly sure the paint is completely dry — perhaps a week or so of drying time — before applying any clear coat, and let the clear coat dry

thoroughly before proceeding. Now you can apply a wash. If the underlying coat is enamel or lacquer, use an acrylic or waterbased paint. If the undercoat is acrylic, use enamel or artist’s oils. The wash can be 1 part paint, 10 parts thinner for starters; you can adjust it from there. Use a fine brush, needle, or pin to apply the wash directly. Immediately soak up excess with a cotton swab. As soon as it looks like enough, stop. Subtlety is best. You can always add more. And here is one more way: Use watercolors or tempera paint, 2. This works best over glossy surfaces. Apply the paint, let it dry, then wipe with a soft cloth, leaving paint in the panel lines.

German “pea pattern” camouflage

Use old decals with caution

Q How would you recommend painting German “pea pattern” camouflage on 1/35 scale figures? So far I’ve tried using a toothpick to paint the dots, but I haven’t gotten it to look right.

Q I recently was able to buy four older Monogram aircraft kits ranging from 1981 to 1987 that were still factory-sealed. Are the decals still usable, and/or should I take extra care in using them? Is there something I can or should do before using them?

– Stephen Mouck Chatsworth, Calif. A The dots are best applied with a highquality, very fine (000) paintbrush. The colors GOT A MODELING PROBLEM? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. E-mail [email protected], or visit and click on “Contact Us.” We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. We publish letters of general interest in the magazine; however, mail volume and space limitations prevent us from printing every question. Please include your name, town, state, and a daytime phone number.

62 FineScale Modeler October 2016

– Mike Simonsson Federal Way, Wash. for this late-war German Waffen SS uniform camouflage — also known as Erbsenmuster and “Dot 44” — are often described as light brown, dark brown, dark green, medium green, and olive. More specifically, Scott Primeau, a top figure modeler, recommends the following using Vallejo Model Color acrylic paints: base color of U.S. field drab (873) with touch of German camo black brown (822); SS camo bright green (833) with a touch of military green (975); reflective green (890); a 2:1 mix of military green (975) and black (950); and a 3:4 mix of sunny skin tone (845) and salmon rose (835). “I’ve used these mixes before and found they give a good representation,” Scott says.

A If the kits remained sealed and properly stored, there is a chance the decals will still be usable. Note the word chance. There is also the possibility that one or more of the decals on the sheet could go to pieces; even on the same sheet, some may work and others may not. (See Patrick Hawkey’s story on p. 26.) I recommend coating old decals with Microscale Liquid Decal Film. It is available at most hobby shops and at Liberally hand-brush the decal sheet with Liquid Decal Film. Don’t overbrush; it will level itself. When it’s thoroughly dry, trim out the decal as closely as you can. The film coating will hold the decal together. FSM



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COMING EVENTS IL, SCHAUMBURG: The Military Miniature Society of Illinois holds its 42nd Annual Chicago Show at the Chicago Marriott Schaumburg, 50 N. Martingale Rd. Saturday, October 22, 2016, 9:00am-4:00pm. For more information contact Show Chairman Pat Vess ([email protected] 630-730-2492) or on our website IL, WHEATON: 68th Illinois Plastic Kit & Toy Show. DuPage County Fairgrounds, 2015 W. Manchester Road., Zip: 60187. September 25, 2016, 9:00am-3:00pm. Adults $5.00, children under 12 years $2.00. 150 tables available. Buy/sell/trade or just browse. Cars, trucks, airplanes, trains, military, fire, police, muscle cars, all scales. Relive your childhood memories. PastTime Hobbies, Inc. 630-969-1847.

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Profile of the Dutch Battlecruiser-carrier Cornelis De Witt MA, LAWRENCE: The Classic Plastic Model Club presents its 24th Annual Model Car Exhibition. Elks Hall. Andover St. October 2, 2016, 8:30am-4:00pm. 29 classes, 3 awards per class, 8 best-of awards, 20 members favorite awards, vendors, food. Theme: The ‘60s, Subtheme: Mellow Yellow. Information: Paul Anagnostopoulos, 978-371-2316, [email protected] Visit us at NH, NASHUA: IPMS Granite State presents Granitecon XXIV. Nashua Elks Club, 120 Daniel Webster Hwy. Sunday, October 16, 2016. General admission $2.00. First 5 adult entries $5.00. Junior entries FREE. For additional details, contact Rodney Currier, 603-726-3876. Visit

THOUSANDS OF MODEL KITS for sale. All types from Old Aurora to new releases. Send a 70¢ SASE to: Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington, Owosso, MI 48867. Specify Military List. Phone: 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: [email protected]

WANTED A BIG BUYER OF AIRCRAFT, Armor, Sci-Fi, Resin, Hybrid or Plastic kits. We buy collections whether they are small or large- Worldwide as well. Call Don Black toll free 1-866-462-7277. Don Black, 119 Bernhurst Road, New Bern, NC 28560. E-mail [email protected]

NY, POUGHKEEPSIE: HVHMG 2016, Celebrating 30 years, Elks Club Lodge, Overocker Rd. October 22, 2016. Sponsored by IPMS Mid-Hudson. Registration 9:00am-noon. More information at: or contact John Gallagher at 845-462-4740 or [email protected]

AIRCRAFT, ARMOR, SCI-FI, FIGURES, AUTO, ETC. Buying kit collections, large or small, worldwide. Top prices paid. Call Jim Banko 610-814-2784 or mail list to 122 Independence Ct., Bethlehem, PA 18020, fax 610-439-4141. E-mail: [email protected]

PA, CARLISLE: PENNCON 2016 IPMS Model Show and Contest. U.S. Army Heritage & Education Center, 950 Soldiers Dr. Saturday, September 17, 2016, 9:00am-4:30pm. Show Theme: AQUATICS. “Make & Take” for kids 15 and under. For more info go to: or contact Chet Mohn, 717-774-4803 E-mail: [email protected]

CASH PAID FOR PLASTIC MODEL COLLECTIONS. Call Tracie in Michigan 248-814-8359. Fax: 248-814-0385 E-mail: fl[email protected]

CANADA, AJAX, ONTARIO: Ajax 36 Model Contest. J. Clarke Richardson Collegiate, 1355 Harwood Ave. N. Saturday, October 29, 2016, 10:00am-4:00pm. Admission: $5.00, Model entry $2.00 to max $15.00 (no limit on models). Sponsored by IPMS Toronto, IPMS De Havilland & Peel Scale Modelers. Contact: Bernie Hengst: 705-878-1740 or [email protected] Visit:

FOR SALE ATLANTIS MAIL ORDER SUPPLY Deep Discounts on Thousands of New Kits. Send $3.95 for Catalog to: 9 Connor Lane, Unit-G, Deer Park, NY 11729, 631-499-6733 BLUEJACKET SHIPCRAFTERS America’s oldest wooden model maker has produced the finest ship model kits since 1905. With over 75 ship model kits from museum quality to kits for the beginner, we bring maritime history alive with exquisitely detailed model ships from the early days of sail, to square rigged and clipper ships, to the warriors of WWII, and the workhorses of the sea. Visit us at to enter the world of wooden ship modeling. CANOPY MASKING AND MORE! WWW.EZMASKS.COM List $3.00. Chris Loney, 75 Golf Club Rd., Smiths Falls, ON, Canada K7A 4S5. 613-283-5206, [email protected]

I WANT TO BUY YOUR UNBUILT MODEL KITS. Any size collection. Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington St. Owosso, MI 48867. 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: [email protected] MODEL CAR AND TRUCK KITS. Unbuilt or built. Any size collection. Good prices paid. Please contact: Fred Sterns, 48 Standish, Buffalo, NY 14216. Phone: 716-838-6797. Fax: 716-836-6057. E-mail: [email protected] YOU WILL NEVER FIND TIME TO BUILD ALL THOSE MODELS. Unbuilt kits, diecast aircraft, military books. Milam Models, 519 DiLorenzo Dr., Naperville, IL 60565, Phone: 630-983-1407, [email protected]


1ST AND ABSOLUTELY THE BEST MUSEUM-QUALITY MODELS. IPMS Nationals winner building aircraft and armor to your specification, including conversions and scratchbuilt. Call BC Models for quote and information at 913-385-9594 or visit

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ALASKA • Anchorage Alaska’s best hobby supplier since 1964. Two stories, 6,300sf, 1st floor all R/C, 2nd floor general hobbies, plastics, trains, slot cars, telescopes & more!


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ARKANSAS • Jacksonville

Headquarters for scale hobbies. Models; N-HO-O trains; gaming; tools; paints, etc. Discounts & special orders. Open 10-6, closed Sundays and Wednesdays


1200 John Harden Dr.



Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem Visit us in person or online Secure online ordering


911 S. Victory Blvd.


CALIFORNIA • Canoga Park

Kits, plastic & wood, Slot cars & toys. Rockets, paint, glue and tools. Trains from Z to O. Mon 10-5; Tue-Fri 10-7; Sat 10-5; Closed Sun & Big Holidays.


7259 Canoga Avenue


CALIFORNIA • Garden Grove

Rewards program for 10% back on purchases. Plastic aircraft, armor, ships, cars, decals, books, paints, tools, miniatures war-games. Mon-Thur 11-8, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 10-midnight, Sun 11-7


12188 Brookhurst St.


CALIFORNIA • Hollister

Model planes, car, ships & figures. Model train scales: Z, N, HO, O & G. Paints, tools. R/C & parts, incl. service. Craft & educational kits, supplies, products. Clinics available. Tu-Sat 11 -6; Sun 12-4. [email protected]


201-C McCray St.



New Products, Old Kits & Great Service! Everything you need to build plastic models Armor, Aircraft, Ships, Cars, SciFi and more. M-F 10:30-6pm, Sat 10:30-5pm, Sun 12-5pm


830 E. Lincoln Ave.


CONNECTICUT • East Windsor

Old & rare kits, largest selection in military kits, rockets, & cars. Exit 45 off I-91. 10 minutes from Bradley Air Museum. or Visit us on Facebook.


144 North Road


CONNECTICUT • Manchester

Largest hobby shop in NE. Military, cars, trucks, plastic models, diecast cars, trucks. Planes, RC planes, cars, trucks, slot cars, rockets, Breyer, Detailing supplies, games! Mon-Wed 10-6 Th-Fri 10-9 Sat-Sun 10-6



71 Hilliard St.


Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train sets. Open Tues - Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5.


394 New Haven Ave., Unit 1


FLORIDA • Ft. Myers

Come visit our new store! Plastic modeling kits. Paint, tools, scenery, accessories, & scale model railroads. Mon - Sat 10:00am-6:00pm. Closed Sun.


12951 Metro Parkway


GEORGIA • Blue Ridge

Huge selection of model kits & accessories. Ships, Armor, Aircraft, Figures, Cars and more. Visit: for complete listing. Monday to Friday 10-5, Saturday 10-4


47 Dunbarton Farm Rd.


HAWAII • Kailua, Oahu

Wide selection of plastic model kits, paint, books, magazines and tools. Located on the beautiful windward side, a scenic 20 minute drive from Honolulu. Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-2


767 Kailua Road


MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston) Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, figure kits, games, etc. Shipping available. Info:


33 Exchange St.



Stop in ONCE! A customer for LIFE! We have 10,000+ models, tools, supplies, 23 paint lines, 50 model mags, 5,000+ books. Est. in 1973, open 7 days, Th & Fr 'til 8. Visit us @


Rt 20E Main, Post Rd. Plaza



6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-fi. Reference books & supplies. Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to Rt. 123E, behind Dunkin’ Donuts. www. E: [email protected]


250 E. Main St., Rt 123




Your source for plastic models, die cast and all supplies needed to finish your latest model. Mon-Sat 9:30-6, Sun 11-5.

Thousands of model kits from old Aurora to new releases. Mon 4pm-7pm, Tues - Fri 11:30am-5pm. Sat 11:30am-4:00pm E-mail: [email protected]


445 South “B” Street



Large inventory of models from the world over! Detailing accessories, research publications, games, trains, R/C, tools, and supplies. Easy access from D.I.A.


1915 S. Havana St.



New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more.



MICHIGAN • Traverse City

Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.


405 E. Putnam Avenue


MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit)

1400 E. 11 Mile Rd.


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NEVADA • Las Vegas While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories. Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5.


4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103








NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden) Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts, tools. Open 7 days


706 N. White Horse Pike


NEW YORK • Buffalo



NEW YORK • Middle Island



NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum. Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits. Open 7 days.


1435 Lexington Ave.


OHIO • Columbus



206 Graceland Blvd.

Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint and aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor, ships, trains and sci-fi. Special orders welcome! Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 1-6 Web site:



OREGON • Beaverton Complete full line hobby shop. Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon-Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5.


12024 SW Canyon Rd.




11145 Turkey Dr.


HO & N, Lionel trains. Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies. Open 11am-6pm M-F, Sat. 10am-5pm


2522 Times Blvd.


Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes. Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7. Sat 10:30-6.


108 S. Lee Street


TEXAS • San Antonio

Scale modeling from beginner to expert. A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, figures, ships, & sci-fi. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10am-6pm.


1029 Donaldson Ave.


Minutes from Dulles Airport & New Dulles Air & Space Museum, Udvar-Hazy Center. PLASTIC! PLASTIC! PLASTIC! Kits for aircraft - armor - ships - cars Daily 12-8; Sun 12-5.


13892 Metrotech Dr.


Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models. Large selection of detail parts. Largest selection of plastic models in South Seattle!


12615 Renton Ave. South


CANADA–AB • Calgary

Specializing in R/C models and accessories, helicopters, planes, cars, trucks, boats, plastic, die-cast & model rockets. M T W F 9:30-6, Th 9:30-8 Sat. 9:30-5 [email protected]


3409A 26 Ave. SW


CANADA–ON • Ottawa (Vanier)

Great selection of model kits, accessories, detail parts, magazines, tools & paints.

119 S. Main St.

East Tennessee’s largest plastic model selection. 8,000 sq. ft. of hobbies & toys. Located in Knoxville’s premier shopping destination. Turkey Creek Area. Open 7 days a week.


Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies. Books and magazines. 134 Middle Country Rd.


VIRGINIA • Chantilly

WNY’s largest selection of models!!! We specialize in models. New, old, rare and vintage. Tons of detail and weathering products, paint, tools and so much more! 2243 Seneca St.


106 W. Main Street

TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)

Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details! 590 Rt. 46

Large Selection New & Used Kits Military books, tools, paint, airbrushes Full line hobby shop open Tue - Thur 10-6, Fri 10-7, Sat 10-4

TEXAS • Houston

Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors #334 90 Washington St.

PENNSYLVANIA • Landisville (Lancaster)

TENNESSEE • Knoxville


OREGON • Hillsboro

Let your imagination run wild! Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, model railroading Z to G and more... 210 East Front St.

Your single stop model building shop. Michigan’s largest selection of new and vintage kits in all genres plus everything needed to build them. Wed - Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5 Visit us on Facebook.



116 N. Washington Street

MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit

Full service hobby shop. Over 6,000 recently acquired models. All the supplies you need to build your model.

One of Canada's leading model shops. Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories. Free parking. On Parle Francais.


80 Montreal Rd.


CANADA–ON • Toronto Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & finishing products. Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections.


1880 Danforth Ave.


Run your Retail Directory ad in the next issue of

FineScale Modeler! Call 888-558-1544, ext. 815 for more information.


345 E. Main St.


Acrylicos Vallejo _______________ 15

FineScale Modeler Books _____ 61, 67

ParaGrafix _____________________ 6

Activity Book __________________ 8

FineScale Modeler Subscriptions __ 63

Roll Models___________________ 64

Alpha Precision Abrasives, Inc._____ 9

Hornby America ________________ 6

Special magazine issue __________ 67

ARA Press_____________________ 8

Iwata-Medea ___________________ 9

Sprue Brothers _________________ 6

Bluejacket Shipcrafters ___________ 6

Mark Klimaszewski ____________ 64

Squadron Mail Order ____________ 2

Colpar’s Hobbytown USA _______ 64

MegaHobby.com_______________ 64

Tamiya America, Inc. ____________ 4

Dean’s Hobby Stop _____________ 64

Michigan Toy Soldier Co.________ 64 ________________ 64

Dragon Models USA ___________ 68

Micro-Mark ___________________ 9

Zvezda USA ___________________ 7

Evergreen Scale Models __________ 9 _____________ 64

Fantastic Plastic Models _________ 64

Pace Enterprises ________________ 6



Gonzo modeling wins

Whaddaya mean, what is it? Obviously, it’s a 1/18 scale Mk.87 13⁄16 Hover Ghia, winner of Wonderfest’s 2016 Iron Modeler contest.


t seems natural that a fantasy-fringed modeling exposition like Wonderfest would have a special competition in the pursuit of greeblies — those spare parts, leftovers, and gizmos that are elevated to other purposes through the imagination of the modeler. Even in early June, the weather in Louisville, Ky., can be steamy — but the skill level of competing modelers also generated considerable heat in the air-conditioned comfort of the Crowne Plaza Hotel. And beyond the hundreds of terrific models on display, a cadre of adventurous builders stood ready to take the “Iron Modeler” challenge. If you’ve seen TV’s Iron Chef, you know the idea — a battle of masters constrained by predetermined ingredients and a 60-minute time limit. In the Iron Modeler competition, teams of three are given four unrelated model

More at See more photos and video of Wonderfest 2016 at 66 FineScale Modeler October 2016

pieces and four hours to produce a recognizable object of modeling art along with a narrative to explain it. In addition — and this is where it gets gnarly — there are two long banquet tables piled high with spare parts and loose sprues. In other words, junk. “Everyone contributes spare parts, even noncompetitors,” says Starship Modeler proprietor John Lester, one of the judges and a founder of the contest. He says the junkpile would fill two 55-gallon recycling bins. Team members are assigned specific roles to which they must hew: One is the airbrusher; another is the builder; and the third is the parts picker, or gofer, if you will. (We’ll call him acquisitions manager.) Winners of the 2016 Iron Modeler contest were: Steve Carricato, a pro modeler from Colorado Springs, Colo., who did the building; Matt Quiroza, of San Bernardino, Calif., a converted military modeler retired from the U.S. Special Forces, who did the airbrushing; and Robert Feuillerat, of Delaware, Ohio, a software technical support supervisor who served as the team’s acquisitions manager.

According to Steve, the four pieces with which they began were: part of a Flying Sub from Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea; two barrels or cylinders; and some sprue from somewhere. The turning point was when Matt spotted a Karmann Ghia body lying on the parts table and called out, “Bring me that!” Teams vied for access to two contestprovided airbrush stations. “Bring your own tools, glues, and imagination,” says Robert. Super glue was essential to the unplanned marriage of plastic, resin, and metal parts. “Liberal use of kicker is recommended,” Robert adds. Steve says having a hairdryer was key. Although the rules allow you to bring one, “everyone knew it but no one did.” Matt’s military modeling experience came to the fore with the weathering and distressed finishes as he wielded an Iwata airbrush and Vallejo paints. But ask Robert and he will tell you his favorite part of the model was the “blinky lights and pointy-laser sticky-outee things.” Generally, gonzo is unfettered creativity on the fly. Well done, Iron Modelers! FSM


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