Fine Scale Modeler Vol.34 Issue 07 September 2016 Tanmodel RF-84 Thunderflash Airfix Ju 87 Stuka FlyingTiger!PaintanAVGP-40 » Building a Marine C-9Bp.49 Painting dark blue...

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Flying Tiger! Paint an AVG P-40


September 2016 p.16




Weathering a British Mark I p.22 Detailing a late German Tiger I p.26

Aaron Skinner’s 1/35 scale M48A3 Patton – p.36

Adding bedspring armor to a T-34 p.30 4 fixes for Dragon’s Patton p.36 An Abrams recycling project p.40

Building a Marine C-9B p.49 Painting dark blue uniforms p.20

OUR TEAM BUILDS AND REVIEWS 7 NEW KITS p.54 Tanmodel RF-84 Thunderflash

Airfix Ju 87 Stuka

AMK MiG-31 Foxhound




September /// Vol. 34 /// No. 7

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22 100 YEARS OF



16 Airbrushing & Finishing

54 AMK MiG-31

Taming a Flying Tiger ANDERS ISAKSSON

56 Tanmodel RF-84 Thunderflash

20 Form & Figure Painting dark blue uniforms JOE HUDSON

57 Airfix Ju 87B-1 Stuka

26 58 Tamiya AMX-13

22 First in the field: British Mark I Heavy weathering for Takom’s tank RICK LAWLER

58 Takom AMX-13/75

26 Add Zimmerit to a late Tiger I

59 Airfix Avro Shackleton MR2

A full kit plus added resin makes for an exceptional model BILL PLUNK

30 Springtime in Berlin

60 HK Models Dornier Do 335A


Dragon’s 1/35 scale T-34/85 gets a little more armor JIMMY NGO KEE SHYANG

5 Editor’s Page

36 Four steps to a better Patton

7 Scale Talk

Easy ixes for building Tamiya’s 1/35 scale M48A3 AARON SKINNER

10 New Products

40 Recycling project Updating a model and saving an aging Abrams from the landill SEAN LYNCH


47 Reader Gallery 61 Reader Tips

49 Finishing a Marine C-9B

62 Questions & Answers

It’s all in the details when it comes to building a Semper Fi transport FRANK CUDEN

64 Hobby Shop Directory 64 Classified Marketplace

66 Final Details Your stash rationale MARK HEMBREE



65 Advertiser Index

FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187. Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional oices. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, PO Box 62320, Tampa, FL 33662-2320. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.


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EDITOR’S PAGE By Mark Savage Shep Paine’s

ARMOR Modelers Guide

100 years of armor amore


nniversaries come and go, but Ever since, nations have improved some are particularly noteon the crude original meant to span a worthy. 100 years ago this trench, crush barbed wire, and keep September the irst Mark I tanks moving across cratered battleields. rolled into battle in France and thus he result? began our amore with armor. German Panzers (including the he British had gained the noted Tiger), Soviet early advantage in mechaT-34s, U.S. M48 … the fact nized land warfare with its Pattons, and modern-day is that the Landships Committee M1 Abrams. British commissioning what was To mark this anniverMark I nicknamed “Little Willie” sary and help satisfy modlooked like after the William Foster elers’ infatuation with an old steel & Co., that created it. tanks, we asked ive top water tank. But the term tank modelers to lead us through appears to have come, their builds of these iconic and stuck around, because of a need tanks, all from diferent countries for a code name and the fact that the and featuring difering building, Mark I looked like a water tank as it detailing and weathering techniques. was being shipped to France. Space requires we limit our scope In any case, on Sept. 15, 1916, just of tanks, but we hope we’ve hit some 32 of the available 49 British tanks of your favorites. We also hope you (reliability wasn’t an early strong enjoy this issue’s special focus on point) entered the Battle of Flerstanks. Know too that we’ll have Courcelette, part of the larger Battle other special features on land, sea, of the Somme. and air subjects in upcoming issues.

With Contributing Editor

Jim DeRogatis

*** While we’re on the tank topic, I should remind you to look for our latest book, Shep Paine’s Armor Modelers Guide. he 144-page how-to book will be available this fall for $24.99. his was Shep’s inal project for us and includes updated tips and techniques and seven all-new projects.

[email protected]

Off the sprue: What’s your favorite summer activity?

Editor Mark Savage [email protected]

Senior Editor Aaron Skinner [email protected]

Associate Editor Mark Hembree [email protected]

Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash [email protected]

Editorial Associate Monica Freitag [email protected]

I start each summer with a trip to my hometown to watch the Indy 500, but in Wisconsin I’m a sucker for the Big Slide, cream puffs, perogies, and corn at our awesome state fair. Great family fun, especially with goofy grandkids.

Hanging out with friends while eating burgers, drinking an adult beverage, and identifying planes/birds/starfighters/superheroes flying over.

It’s baseball season! I love the sound of a ballgame on the radio while I’m tending the BBQ grill. And it’s festival season: Performing at outdoor gigs is a gas.

Laying out a blanket in front of my car at the drive-in movie theater, getting distracted by the stars, falling asleep during the double feature and waking up covered in dew.

I attend Summerfest (big lakefront music festival) and the Wisconsin State Fair every year, in addition to hitting up as many smaller live music concerts and open market events as possible. That’s what makes my summer!


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EDITORIAL Senior Editor Aaron Skinner Associate Editor Mark Hembree Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash Editorial Associate Monica Freitag

ART Illustrator Kellie Jaeger Photographer William Zuback Production Coordinator Cindy Barder

CONTRIBUTING MODELERS Paul Boyer, Federico Collada, Andy Cooper, Raúl Corral, Frank Cuden, Phillip Gore, James Green, Joe Hudson, Rick Lawler, Karl Logan, Harvey Low, Rato Marczak, Chris Mrosko, Bill Plunk, Darren Roberts, Chuck Sawyer, Cookie Sewell, Bob Steinbrunn, Cristóbal Vergara, Jim Wechsler, Adam Wilder

KALMBACH PUBLISHING CO. President Charles R. Croft Vice President, Content Stephen C. George Senior V.P., Sales & Marketing Daniel R. Lance Vice President, Consumer Marketing Nicole McGuire General Manager Brian J. Schmidt Advertising Director Scott Bong Corporate Art Director Maureen M. Schimmel Art and Production Manager Michael Soliday Circulation Manager Cathy Daniels Single Copy Specialist Kim Redmond


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6 FineScale Modeler September 2016

SCALE TALK Your voice in FSM

Chris Flodberg is making waves …

… and even more waves!

I just want to say the April I’ve been in this hobby issue featuring Chris now for 46 years. I » Flodberg’s HMS Repulse has used to be an FSM got to be the greatest cover subscriber, but nowaphoto to appear on your days I pick up a copy at SCULPTING magazine. the local grocery store ROUGH SEAS I am a 57-year-old averwhen a new issue hits the age to very good model stands. HOW TO maker who typically Shep Paine and Bill builds World War II airHoran have been the only craft. I dabble with an two modelers that have had airbrush over cans when a marked influence on my I feel brave. Reading modeling skills — that is, about Chris’ experiuntil I read Chris Flodberg’s ments and the risks he article on sculpting realistic “… the greatest took to create such a seas. I’ve struggled for years to cover photo to visual masterpiece replicate what he so eloquently doesn’t make me feel described step by step in the appear on your overwhelmed, but April 2016 FSM. He really magazine.” rather piques my made an impression! interest and encourI know of Chris’ extensive ages me to continue challenging myself to labors to re-create ocean waves, and I know become a better model builder. just how much effort goes into a quality – David Patrick McDonnell model ship. So let’s give credit where credit Mansf ield, Mass. is due. That was one fine article from Chris.

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Free desktop wallpaper Download a desktop wallpaper of Airfix’s 1/72 scale Avro Shackleton MR2 aircraft built by Walt Fink for Workbench Reviews and featured on p. 59 in this issue.

New Product Rundown Twice a month Aaron Skinner and Elizabeth Nash take time to look at the hottest scale model kits, open the boxes, and tell you why you’ll want to build them. Warning: Laughs will be had. Watch NPRD online today!


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Kudos my friend! I thought I’d seen it all. Nice to know that after four and a half decades there’s still some room to grow in this hobby. – Randy Wise Surrey, British Columbia, Canada

“Stash” grows into 1/1 scale plane Kevin Good’s letter in the July issue about “The Stash” made me smile. I have a fairly modest stash of about 65 kits, and my wife

has never bugged me about it. Some years ago I took a break from modeling to build a 1/1 scale kit that I could fly in. It’s been flying for five years, and I’m back to modeling. My message to all the spouses who are worried about the money their significant other has tied up in kits: Call me. I will put it in perspective for you! – Jim Bower St. Louis, Mo.

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ARA Press 785 Jefferson Ave. Livermore, CA 94550 (925) 583-5126 8 FineScale Modeler September 2016

A 30-year-old newspaper article I tucked into a book I bought nearly 60 years ago sparked a curiosity that led to a club display of about 50 models at the 2016 International Plastic Modelers Society First Coast show ( JAXCON). The article was about Hans von Ohain, who in 1984 was teaching physics at the University of Florida. In the late 1930s, Ohain and German aircraft manufacturer Ernst Heinkel produced the first turbojet to fly — the Heinkel He 178. The date: August 24, 1939 — one week before Hitler invaded Poland to start WWII. The book was The Jet Aircraft of the World by British aviation authors William Green and Roy Cross. In it, Green describes the He 178 and 26 other rocket- and jet-powered planes that flew during WWII. Add to that the jets that flew just after the war and before 1950, and the total comes to 96. That was the genesis of our club display at IPMS JAXCON 2016. When I proposed the idea to the Gator Modelers of Gainesville, Fla., the club members thought it would make an interesting and unusual display. So, I agreed to build the WWII models, and the other members picked from a list of postwar jets to flesh out the display. We even had participation from the nearby Ocala IPMS club. The challenge was finding the kits

(all in 1/72 scale), many of which were from small Eastern European manufacturers. The payoff was an outpouring of interest from JAXCON attendees. About 50 people stopped by to check out our display, and many said, “Wow!” Favorites were the YB-49 Flying Wing and the Ju 287 forward-sweptwing bomber. Our club has become known for its historic displays, such as Fighters of the American Aces, Green’s Famous Fighters of WWII, and Florida’s Aviation History. These have been displayed at our library, the University of Florida Museum of Natural History Collectors Day, IPMS First Coast JAXCON, and the IPMS Orlando Modelpalooza. Our next club build is a collection of Blue Angels aircraft, timed to coincide with their 70th anniversary air show in Jacksonville next fall. We encourage other clubs to consider the benefits of a club display at local model shows. There are plenty of good themes waiting, and it doesn’t have to be about aviation — cars, ships, and tanks can work. Our club has found it to be a good way to build camaraderie and club spirit, encourage members to build, and even an outreach to gain new members. Give it a try! – Bruce Doyle Gainesville, Fla.

PAINT BOOTHS How to achieve your goals When I see the beautiful models in your magazine I wonder if I will ever be of that standard. I have made numerous models in the past. When I was a teenager, I would build and paint a model in one sitting. And this was the standard thing to do. Now, at 48, I wonder if I can get my models to the monumental levels I see on each page of FSM. So I have decided to try to improve my modeling skills slowly and not judge or compare myself harshly against these expert-level builds. My old routine consisted of sitting there looking at the pictures and the plastic components in the box and thinking I could not build to the showroom standard I witnessed. So, I did not try. This time around, I will open the box and give it a go. Then I will look at my achievement and note how I will make it even better on the next model, and then the next one. Using this actual “give it a go and stop thinking you can’t do it” method, maybe, just maybe one day I will make that model that I can be proud of. I am sure all the modelers who have exhibited have their first attempts firmly stamped in their minds. So instead of fearing this foregone failure, I am now looking forward to finishing the first and bettering the second, etc. Great magazine. It is my go-to publication in the UK even with shelves full of wonderful competitors. A fine scale modeler is what I am aiming to be … one day.

3 Models Available! Starting at


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– Phil Weston Isle of Wight, England

Ed.: That’s the spirit, Phil! None of us build masterpieces the first time around. Make each model better than the last and have fun!

Are individual links the way to go? I was wondering what the attraction is of individual-link tracks for model tanks compared to the one-piece tracks. The latter seem just as detailed as the individual-link tracks — and don’t take hours to assemble. Anymore, it appears that the best tank models have individual-link tracks. But I have never understood the attraction. – Richard Prechel Beaver Dam, Wis.

Ed.: Richard, like you, many modelers prefer the simpler “rubber band” tracks. Others prefer the detail of individual links that can be articulated for various poses. Readers, what do you think?


NEW PRODUCTS Compiled by Monica Freitag & Aaron Skinner


Brand-new chopper with bells and whistles Designed as a tactical transport, the Sea King Commando, or HC4, has deployed to the Falklands, Balkans, the Gulf, Afghanistan, and Lebanon. Airix's all-new 1/72 scale HC4 (No. A04056) has ine recessed panel lines and a ton of features.

Interior details include a cockpit with seats, collectives, joysticks, pedals, instrument panel with decal dials, and a bulkhead. he troop compartment includes webbing seats, a detailed loor, and ceiling. No engine is provided but the intakes and exhaust look sharp. he exterior bristles

with antennas, countermeasure dispensers, and lights. Options include: folded or extended tail; deployed or stowed main rotor; and open or closed cabin and crew doors. Cartograf decals provide markings and stencils for two

No. 848 Squadron HC4s: one in a striking winter camoulage in 2009; the other overall olive drab. he Sea King costs $19.99. More info:

1/144 SCALE


Nieuport Ni-11 from Eduard, No. 8422, $22.95. Weekend Edition.

Vickers Super VC10 Type 1151 from Roden, No. 313, $29.

Bf 109G-6 late series from Eduard, No. 82111, $49.99. ProiPack Edition. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.


Bf 109G-5 from Eduard, No. 82112, $49.95.

1/72 SCALE Su-33 Flanker D from Kinetic, No. K48062, $54.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

Lacrosse Missile from Renwal/Revell, No. 85-7824, $39.95. 139 parts including combat crew of ive.

1/35 SCALE

MiG-29A Fulcrum from Italeri, No. 1377, $49.99

Super Étendard/Super Étendard Modernise) from Kinetic, No. K48061, $39.99.

10 FineScale Modeler September 2016

More at Check out our New Product Rundown (NPRD) videos as Elizabeth Nash and Aaron Skinner have fun looking at the latest kits!

M37 US 3/4 ton 4x4 cargo truck from


CMP cargo truck loaded with details


BG Models continues its line of Canadian Military Pattern trucks with a 1/35 scale Chevrolet C15A personnel lorry (No. 35037). Hundreds of thousands of CMP light trucks were built during World War II and they served with Commonwealth forces in nearly every theater.

Molded in light gray plastic, the well-molded sprues provide parts to build the 4x4 vehicle with either the Cab 12 or Cab 13. Other features include: detailed suspension and drive train, including the engine, chassis, and leaf springs; a fully appointed cab; with controls and driver and

passenger seats; clear parts for windows and lights; plastic wheels with tire and hub detail; wooden texture on the cargo bed parts; and optional parts to show the tarpaulin bed cover on or of with the frames exposed. Decals provide markings

for three Canadian trucks, one each in France, Italy, and Sicily. he C15A costs $44.95. More info: www.ibg-models. com.

Roden, No. 806, $42. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

M60A2 Patton main battle tank (later version) from AFV Club, No. AF35230, $69.98. Look US Army M1A2 Tusk II from Academy,

for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

No. 13298, $59. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

LAV-25 Piranha from Italeri, No. 6539, $32.99.

PzKpfw II Ausf C Eastern Front from Attack, No. 72893. Contact your local dealer for pricing.

PzKpfw II Ausf C Balkan, Yugloslavia, Greece 1941 from Attack, No. 72892. Contact your local dealer for pricing.

Pavesi P4/100-30A artillery tractor with tires from Plus Model, No. 475, $175.80. Photo

SU-85i from Attack, No. 72895. Contact your

CD included, 140 parts, photoetch.

local dealer for pricing.

Gulf War 25th Anniversary 1991-2016.

1/72 SCALE

M10 US tank destroyer mid-production from Tamiya, No. 35350, $48. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

Marmon Herrington Mk.II MFF from Attack, No. 72901. Contact your local dealer for pricing.

SU-76i Wehrmacht from Attack, No. 72894. Contact your local dealer for pricing.

SU-76i Soviet Army from Attack, No. 72890. Contact your local dealer for pricing.




1/350 SCALE

1/32 SCALE Hawker Hurricane Mk.IIc Part 1 from Xtradecal/Hannants, No. X32062, $11.75.

HMS Ark Royal 1939 from Merit, No. 65307,

Wittmann Ace Tiger crew from Dragon, No.


6831, $17.99. 1939-1945 series.

1/700 SCALE

Volksstrum, Germany 1944-1945 (German soldiers training civilians) from

Hawker Hurricane Mk.IIc Part 2 from Xtradecal/Hannants, No. X32063, $11.75.

Master Box Ltd., No. MB35172, $16.99.

MISCELLANEOUS KITS Krypto The Superdog from Merit, No. 3060. Contact your local dealer for price information.

HMS Badsworth 1941 Hunt II class destroyer escort from IBG Models, No. 70004, $13.25. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

ORP Krakowiak 1944 Hunt II class destroyer escort from IBG Models, No. 70003, $13.25.

F-15C Fresno Repo Eagles from TwoBobs

F-16C Blk50 - 50 Years of YGBSM

Aviation Graphics, No. 32-066, $14.

from TwoBobs Aviation Graphics, No. 32-065, $14.

Euroighter Typhoon FGR.4 Special Schemes Part 2 from Xtradecal/Hannants, No.


X32060, $12.85.

1/35 SCALE 1/48 SCALE F-15C Fresno Repo Eagles from TwoBobs Combustion Engine from Airix, No. A42509,

Aviation Graphics, No. 48-250, $14.

$59.99. Real working model kit.

F-16C Blk50 - 50 Years of YGBSM from TwoBobs Aviation Graphics, No. 48-247, $14.

B-1B Modern Day Bones from TwoBobs

1/72 SCALE

Aviation Graphics, No. 48-249, $14.

F-15C Digital Remix from TwoBobs Aviation Graphics, No. 48-248, $14.

German paratroopers WWII era from Master Box Ltd., No. MB35145, $15.99.

M1A1 Abrams AH-1W SuperCobra, T-62 Mi-25 Hind D from Italeri, No. 6117, $41.99. Gulf War 25th Anniversary 1991-2016.

More at

US ammo-loading tank crew from Master Box Ltd., No. 35190, $15.99. 12 FineScale Modeler September 2016

Check out our New Product Rundown (NPRD) videos as Elizabeth Nash and Aaron Skinner have fun looking at the latest kits!

Gloster Meteor F/ TT.8 Day Glo stripes from Xtradecal/Hannants, No. X48160, $9.

Gloster Meteor F.8 Collection Part 2 from Xtradecal/ Hannants, No. X48159, $10.

Gloster Meteor F.8 Collection Part 1 from Xtradecal/Hannants, No. X48158, $9.80.

Growler Anthology (for Hasegawa) from Furball Aero-Design, No. 48-048, $21.99. Options for 12 EA-18Gs (stencils and data to build 2 complete models): VAQ-132‚ Aviano AB, Operation Oddessy Dawn, 2011; VAQ-132, Misawa AB, 2014; VAQ135, NAS Whidbey Island, 2011; VAQ-133, NAS Whidbey Island, 2015; VAQ-137, USS Theodore Roosevelt, 2014 VAQ-139, USS Carl Vinson; VAQ209, NAS Whidbey Island, 2015; VAQ-209, NAS Whidbey Island, 2015; VAQ-129/390TH ECS, NAS Whidbey Island, 2015; VAQ-135, NAS Whidbey Island, 2011; VAQ-140, USS Truman, 2015.

Colors and markings of US Navy F-14 Tomcats Part 1 from Furball Aero-Design, No. F/D&S-4808, $19.99. Includes complete coverage of all 4 aircraft involved in both Gulf of Sidra Incidents and seven other VF-32 and VF-41 F-14A Tomcats: VF-32, USS Independence, 1983 (Hi-Viz CO); VF-32, USS Independence, 1983 (Lo-Viz); VF-32, USS John F. Kennedy, 1989 (MiG-23 killer); VF-32, USS John F. Kennedy, 1989 (MiG-23 Killer); VF-32, USS John F. Kennedy, 1990 (Hi-Viz CAG); VF-41, USS Nimitz, 1981 (Su-22 killer on day of the shootdown); VF-41, USS Nimitz, 1982 (Su-22 killer post shootdown) VF-41, USS Nimitz, 1981 (Su-22 killer on day of the shootdown); VF-41, USS Nimitz, 1982 (Su-22 killer post shootdown); VF-41, USS Nimitz, 1982 (CAG).

licate the sealant that is found around the canopies of many modern combat aircraft. This set contains light gray canopy seals sized to it the F-5E/F kits. One set of F-5E and one set of F-5F canopy seals are included.

1/72 SCALE F-15C Fresno Repo Eagles from TwoBobs Aviation Graphics, No. 72-103, $14.

F-16C Blk50 - 50 Years of YGBSM from

Meteor F.8 (for Airix) from Eduard, No. 48883, $29.95. Photoetch. Meteor F.8 interior (for Airix) from Eduard, No. 49765, $29.95. Photoetch. Bf 109G seatbelts fabric (for Eduard) from Eduard, No. 49765, $29.95. Bf 109G-6 (for Eduard) from Eduard, No. 48885, $19.95. Bf 109G seatbelts Super Fabric (for Eduard) from Eduard, No. 49094, $10.95. Bf 109G-6 cockpt (for Eduard) from Eduard,

TwoBobs Aviation Graphics, No. 72-102, $14.

No. 648 240, $39.95. Brassin Line.

Lo-Viz Devil Dog Scooters from Furball

P-38 wheels (for Academy) from Eduard, No.

Aero-Design, No. 72-003, $16.99. Includes options for 16 Skyhawks (stencils and data included to build 2 complete models): A-4E ‚ VMA-322, 1982; A-4M‚ VMA-331, 1982; A-4M‚ VMA-311, 1984; A-4F‚ VMA-142, 1985; A-4M‚ VMA-211, 1989; A-4M‚ VMA-214, 1989; A-4M, VMA-131, 1993; OA-4M‚ H&MS-13, 1980; OA-4M, H&MS-12, 1984; OA-4M‚ H&MS-32, 1984; TA-4J‚ VMA-322, 1986; OA-4M‚ H&MS-12, 1989; OA-4M, H&MS-32, 1990; OA-4M‚ H&MS12, 1989.

648 258, $7.95. Brassin Line.

Sniper ATP from Eduard, No. 648 252, $9.95. Brassin Line.

Bf 108 wooden propeller (for Eduard) from Eduard, No. 648 256, $4.95. Brassin Line.

Super Etendard exterior (for Kinetic) from Eduard, No. 48890, $29.95. Photoetch.

Super Etendard interior (for Kinetic) from Eduard, No. 49776, $22.95. Photoetch. US chaff and lare dispensers from Eduard, No. 49779, $19.95. Photoetch.



1/48 SCALE

1/35 SCALE

Bf 109G camo scheme Mtt (for Eduard) from Eduard, No. EX509, $16.95. Express Mask.

Bf 109G camo scheme Erla (for Eduard) from Eduard, No. EX510, $16.95. Express Mask.

Bf 109G camo scheme WNF (for Eduard) from Eduard, No. EX511, $16.95. Express Mask. Bf 109G spinner spirals (for Eduard) from Eduard, No. EX512, $9.95. Flexible mask.

MiG-31 canopy and wheel hub vinyl mask set (for AMK) from Furball Aero-Design, No. FMS-023, $6.99. Contains canopy and wheel hub masks. Super Etendard (for Kinetic) from Eduard, No. EX519, $12.95. Flexible mask. Su-33 (for Kinetic) from Eduard, No. EX521, $12.95. Flexible mask.

SdKfz 8 12t early type track from

Air Wing All-Stars Super Hornets Part 3

F-5E/F canopy and wheel hub vinyl mask set (for AFV Club) from Furball Aero-Design,

Friulmodel, No. ATL169, $25. 110 links.

from Furball AeroDesign, No. 48-049, $19.99. Seven colorful F-18E/F CAG & CO birds (includes stencils and data to build 2 complete models): VFA-81, F/A-18E‚ USS Carl Vinson, 2015; VFA-87, F/A-18E, USS George H.W. Bush, 2015; VFA-105, F/A-18E‚ USS Eisenhower, 2015; VFA-137, F/A-18E‚ USS George Washington, 2015; VFA-151, F/A-18E‚ USS Stennis, 2015; VFA192, F/A-18E‚ USS George Washington 2015.

No. FMS-022, $6.99. Contains canopy and wheel hub masks for the F-5E/F kit. One set of F-5E and one set of F-5F masks are included.

F-14 Walkway decals from Furball AeroDesign, No. 48-050, $6.99. F-14 Walkways includes 3 pair for the intake walkways found on many F-14s. Includes one set of black, one set of dark gull gray, and one set of engine gray walkways.

F-5E/F canopy frame decals (for AFV Club) from Furball Aero-Design, No. 48-051, $6.99. Series of decals that allows the modeler to rep-

T-10M from Friulmodel, No. ATL170, $30. 172 links.

AIRCRAFT DETAILS 1/48 SCALE Bf 109G exhaust stacks from Eduard, No. 648 247, $7.95. Brassin Line.

Bf 109G-6 radio compartment from Eduard, No. 648 239, $14.95. Brassin Line. WGr.21 for Bf 109 from Eduard, No. 648 245, $12.95. Brassin Line. Bf 109 cannon pods from Eduard, No. 648 246, $12.95. Brassin Line.

Sea Harrier FRS. 1 interior (for Kinetic) from Eduard, No. FE769, $14.95. Photoetch. Meteor F.8 undercarriage (for Airix) from Eduard, No. 48882, $36.95. Photoetch. Meteor F.8 landing laps (for Airix) from Eduard, No. 48884, $29.95. Photoetch.

Conqueror from

MBT-70/Kpz 70

Friulmodel, No. ATL-172, $30. 196 links.

from Friulmodel, No. ATL-173, $30. 160 links.

T-14 Armata from Friulmodel, No. ATL-174, $30. 194 inks.



American pilots, British planes, and a ton of photos

The Messerschmitt Bf 109 from A to K as well as T

American pilots, eager to help defeat fascism or looking for adventure, volunteered to ly for the Royal Air Force before the U.S. entered World War II. Many were members of the Eagle Squadrons, but hundreds more would see combat with regular Fighter Command units. hese volunteers and the aircraft they lew are the subject of Tony Holmes' Images of War: American Eagles — US Fighter Pilots in the RAF 1939-1945 (Pen & Sword, ISBN 978-1-4738-3566-5, $19.99). Black-and-white photos of Spitires, Hurricanes, Beauighters, and Mosquitoes ill the 144-page softcover. hey ofer a glimpse of unique markings, weathering, battle damage, and more. Detailed captions give locations and dates, and call out interesting points about the aircraft and pilots.

Making sense of the ever-popular Bf 109 and its multiple variants can leave one lost in an alphabet soup of number and letter designations. Jean-Claude Mermet and Christian-Jacques Ehrengardt ofer a primer on the backbone of the Luftwafe ighter force in their lavishly illustrated Messerschmitt Bf 109 (Caraktère, ISBN 978-2-916403-144, $54.90). Breaking the history into major series — A-D, E and T, F, and G and K — the 192-page softcover uses photos, illustrations, color proiles and text to detail each sub-variant and call out diferences, changes, and improvements. his kind of detailed reference is great for modelers building a particular plane. he book is a great resource whether you plan to build one Bf 109 or an entire jagdgeschwader.

SdKfz.8 12t early type track No. ATL-169, $25. 110 links; Gal Batash/Achzarit late/ Merkava Mk. 3D No. ATL-171, $30. 210 links.


From Friulmodel.

US Army LeTourneau Sheepfoot roller single unit from L.Z. Models, No. 35453, $24.95. US Army LeTourneau ield compaction roller from L.Z. Models, No. 35455, $19.95. US Army LeTourneau Sheepfoot roller double unit from L.Z. Models, No. 35454, $44.95.

Spitfire Aces of the Channel Front 1941-43, $23, by

Warship 2016, $60, by John Jordan, soft cover, 208 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-184486-326-6. From Osprey/Conway Publishing.

$29.95. Photoetch.

Andrew Thomas, soft cover, 96 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47281258-2. From Osprey Publishing.


Stukas Over the Steppe - The Blitzkrieg in the East 1941-1945, $19.95, by Peter C.

T-44 for MiniArt from Eduard, No. 36339,

1/35 SCALE Metal barrels with hand carts No. 482, $21.80. 31 Resin parts and decals. Square cans No. EL059, $4.60. Easy Line. Contains 12 pieces. Rivets .5mm No. 459, $9.70. 250 pieces. From Plus Model.

14 FineScale Modeler September 2016

Scale Model Handbook Figure Modelling 16, $17,

Scale Model Handbook WWII Special, $19, soft

soft cover, 50 pages, all color photos, ISSN: 2241-1054. From Mr. Black Publications.

cover, 80 pages, all color photos, ISSN: 2459-3311. From Mr. Black Publications.

Unlimited Racers 1997-2007 from Aero Research Co., No. 3012, $12.95.


Smith, soft cover, 64 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-84832-801-3. From Casemate Publishers.

Distant Thunder - The US Artillery from the Spanish American War to the end of the 20th century, $19.95, by Alejandro M. de Quesada, soft cover, 72 pages, all black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 978-1-84832-808-2. From Casemate Publishers.

RAF Colors Day Fighters 1941-1945 & PRU from Acrylicos Vallejo, No. 71162, $25.99.

USAF Collection No. 9 from Aero Research

RAF Colors Special ‚ Battle of Britain‚ from

Co., No. 1061, $12.95.

Acrylicos Vallejo, No. 71144, $25.99.

“Steam Locomotive”

 Shipment One

“Tender” with FREE 14-pc. Track Set, Power Pack & Speed Controller

 Shipment Two

authentically detailed . magnificently handcrafted.

©Hawthorne Village 14-01645-001-BIR

Armed with two 37mm anti-aircraft guns, these cars were vital in defending the trains against the ever-present threat of deadly air attacks!

This is a limited-time offer and strong demand is expected. You need send no money now. Just sign and mail the Reservation Application today.

Shipment Four “Anti-aircraft Car”

not available in any store ! act now !

Begin your train collection with the illuminated “Steam Locomotive.” It can be yours for three easy payments of $26.66*, the first billed before shipment. Subsequent train cars will billed separately each at the same attractive price— including Shipment Two with the FREE track, power-pack and speed controller, a $100 value!—and shipped about every other month! You may cancel at any time. Our best-in-the-business 365-day guarantee assures your satisfaction.

an incredible train at an exceptional value .

These iron behemoths were not only heavily armored, they were also heavily armed bristling with cannon, machine guns and anti-aircraft weapons. Through painstaking research and uncompromising attention to detail, these train cars have been faithfully recreated and sculpted as real working HO-scale cars that will operate on any HO-gauge track. To maintain the ultimate in accuracy, the cars are also hand-painted in actual WWII Allied camouflage patterns. Crafted of only the finest materials, this heirloomquality train collection is built to deliver years and years of enjoyment.

“Artillery Car”

 Shipment Three



Name (Please Print Clearly)

917860-E68401 *Plus $9.99 shipping and service. Allow 4-6 weeks after initial payment for shipment. Sales subject to product availability and order acceptance.





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A real working HO-scale electric train collection featuring faithful replicas of the train cars that helped win the war!

the wwii armored train collection

World War II was gallantly fought on many battlefields. On the ground. In the skies. And on the high seas. But it was also fought on the steel rails that crisscrossed so much of war-torn Europe. In tribute to the trains that helped secure victory in the Second World War, Hawthorne is proud to present the exclusive WWII Armored Train Collection.

locomotive lights up!

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Taming a Flying Tiger Dressing Airfix’s 1/72 scale Hawk for duty in China


hen the 1st American Volunteer Group (AVG) — the famed Flying Tigers — arrived in China in late 1941, it was equipped with Tomahawk IIAs originally destined for the Royal Air Force. he P-40B Warhawks, as they were known to American pilots, wore Chinese insignia in place of the RAF roundels and were adorned with shark mouths. I built Airix’s relatively new 1/72 scale P-40 using the kit decals to mark it as a Flying Tiger plane. he kit goes together well and quickly, so I was able to focus on painting and weathering.

1 Vallejo gray primer straight from the spray can provided a durable surface for painting and weathering. It also revealed a few minor flaws, mostly around the landing-gear knuckles on the leading edges, which I remedied with filler. 16 FineScale Modeler September 2016

2 I sprayed the tires, exhausts, and prop with Citadel chaos black. The color serves as a foundation for the dark shades these parts will eventually be painted.

3 After applying Eduard precut masks, I airbrushed them with a mix of LifeColor paints so the inner surfaces match the cockpit’s interior green. Tamiya tape masked the cockpit opening.

4 For dark earth, I mixed LifeColor brown (UA016) and German desert yellow (UA084) to match the box art and references. Random applications of the base color mixed with a little white and black varied the shade for more life.

6 It appears the upper surfaces initially carried British roundels that were painted over with dark earth before Chinese insignia were added. I used precut circle masks for those spots.

8 After masking, I sprayed the underside with LifeColor light gull gray (UA025).

5 Next came the laborious job of masking for the dark green. I started by outlining each area with thin strips of Tamiya tape and filling in behind with more tape. The tricky pattern needed multiple adjustments to get right.

7 I mixed LifeColor black green (UA051) and dark green (UA001) to airbrush the green. Then, I added a little dark green to the paint and post-shaded the camouflage.

9 A few days later, I sealed the paint with clear gloss acrylic lacquer in preparation for decals. I hand-painted the tips of the propeller blades yellow and the tires rubber — a mix of LifeColor black (UA02) and a little flesh (UA709). The exhausts got a quick coat of LifeColor burnt umber (LC37), and the landing gear was painted with Citadel runefang steel.




The kit’s thin decals applied easily with help from GSI Creos Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer. The multipart shark mouth fit around the nose’s compound curves; I touched up a small gap at the front of the intake with paint. Clear flat acrylic lacquer protected the marking.

I drew scuffed and damaged paint with artist’s colored pencils. In the most heavily worn areas, especially the wing roots either side of the cockpit, I used a silver pencil to produce bare metal. The prop blades received the same treatment.



For oil and engine fluids, I dabbed tiny amounts of AK Interactive dark streaking grime (AK 024) around the panels at the front end. After letting it dry for a few minutes, I feathered the effect with a little mineral spirits on a paintbrush.

I enhanced the fluid streaks by drawing a black pencil along the sides of the fuselage in the direction of airflow.



The entire underside received several applications of dark streaking grime. With a paintbrush dipped in mineral spirits, I drew dots of color back along the wings and belly.

I applied spots of AK Interactive summer Kursk earth wash (AK080) to the fighter’s horizontal surfaces. Then, I feathered the stains with a damp paintbrush for a subtle, faded look. I repeated the process a couple of times to enhance the effect.




I painted streaks of dark streaking grime and AK Interactive dust effects (AK015) down and back along the fuselage to match photos of fuel spilled from ports behind the cockpit.

For exhaust streaks, I airbrushed thin layers of LifeColor light compass ghost gray (UA026), then framed the stripes with thin Tamiya flat black (XF-1).

Finally, I applied AK Interactive Europe earth pigment (AK042) to the tires and wing roots to simulate the dirt of the the Flying Tigers’ unprepared airfields. FSM

18 FineScale Modeler September 2016

FORM & FIGURE By Joe Hudson

Painting dark blue Add life to a Union hero’s uniform


t’s a challenge to paint dark blue and prevent the shadows from turning black and murky or highlights from looking too stark. I used thin layers of color to inish the uniform on FeR Miniatures’ 75mm resin igure of Col. Joshua Chamberlain, Gettysburg, 1863. After cleaning the parts and illing gaps with Aves Apoxie Sculpt, I airbrushed the igure with Vallejo light gray surface primer.

1 I started the frock coat with a mix of dark Prussian blue, Prussian blue, and a little black. The color should be dark but not black; you need black in the darkest shadows for contrast.

20 FineScale Modeler September 2016

2 I added more black to the base color mix to paint shadows in the lower folds of the frock coat. Adding more and more black until pure black is used, and applying very thin layer, I gradually intensified the shadows.

3 I applied the same shadows to the undersides of folds in the torso of the coat. These layers are very thin glazes of color, so the effect is subtle and easily built up.



I applied the same tones to the entire inner surfaces of both arms, because the figure’s position puts these areas in deep shadow.


Here you can see that most of the shadows are in place and the overall look is pretty dark.



Maintaining a good point on the brush is essential for applying paint to the tops of folds. As the highlights progressed, I mixed Prussian blue and dark blue.



I’ve added several thin layers of highlights in the folds in the upper section of the coat, but they are difficult to see. More dark blue further lightens the shade. It’s important to keep the mixture thin so you don’t end up with stripes.


The thin paint stays wet on the folds as I continue to blend the highlights with a little more dark blue in the mix. Check out the point on the brush!

70.815 Basic skintone 70.899 Dark Prussian blue 70.930 Dark blue

70.950 Black 70.965 Prussian blue

The highlights are beginning to show. I kept painting thin layers of progressively lighter shades, adding a little more dark blue each time.


Finally, the highlights begin to pop, thanks to the addition of a tiny amount of basic skintone to dark blue.

Vallejo Model Color paints used

Moving to highlights, I added more Prussian blue into the base color. I apply this shade in thin layers and stroke the brush sideways across ridges, rather than along them; this gives me more control.

I painted the brightest highlight mix along the edges and other salient points to finish the coat. The trousers and kepi were painted the same way. I had fun trying a new approach to dark blue. Remember, keep the mixes thin and apply many layers. FSM

Next issue It’s time to test your metal as Joe shows how to paint armor and weapons for a Viking.




First in the field

British Mark I

Heavy weathering for Takom’s 1/35 scale WWI tank /// BY RICK LAWLER


eonardo da Vinci described and drafted the “I can make idea of a tank before the end of the 15th armored cars, century. But it wasn’t until 1915, following safe and a demonstration of the Killen-Strait tractor, that unassailable, which will enter First Lord of the Admiralty Winston Churchill the closed ranks pushed the sponsorship of the Landships of the enemy Committee to investigate the potential of conwith their structing a new weapon that might break the staleartillery, and no company of mate of trench warfare. In 1916, a massive iron soldiers is so beast (given the name “tank” to protect its secrecy) great that it will rumbled across the barren battleield of the not break Somme and into history — and da Vinci’s centuthrough them. And behind these ries-old concept inally lumbered into combat. our infantry will hat would be the British Mark I Male — the be able to follow subject of Takom’s 1/35 scale kit (No. 2031). quite unharmed Takom also has the “female” Mark I (no naval and without any guns), but, except for the main armaments and a opposition.” — Leonardo da Vinci, 1487 few accessories, it is an identical kit. 22 FineScale Modeler September 2016

1 Takom’s kit is a wonderful weekend project, as its broad surfaces and good fit provide for a build easily done in two days. I deviated slightly from the instructions, keeping subassemblies apart for ease of painting. However, a certain sequence must be followed for everything to fit (especially the trailer). Not too difficult — just keep that in mind.

3 I airbrush an uneven, translucent base coat of Ammo of Mig Jimenez (Ammo) slate gray, applying enough to state the color while allowing the primer shades to show through.

5 Hand-painted blotches are lightly filled and center portions unified by the airbrush. Still, the coverage is not uniform, keeping that handpainted look.

2 Gone are the days of the simple primer coat. Pre-shading adds depth and variations for visual interest. Here, I use black, white, and shades of gray primer to establish underlying tones and textures.

4 The first British tanks were painted with four-color camouflage designed by the artist Solomon Joseph Solomon. However, mud quickly rendered these elaborate schemes superfluous. By late 1916, tanks were painted a single shade of dark brown. This vehicle represents the earlier scheme; I hand-brush the blobs of color using Ammo colors thinned slightly with Ammo’s acrylic thinner. Again, I’m not worried about opaque coverage.

6 The blotches have been filled, but the uneven coverage maintains the previous variations for texture and visual interest.


7 As on the real tanks, disruptive outlines are hand-painted.

9 Enamel pinwashes bring out surface details without darkening or discoloring their surroundings. Excess is removed with a clean brush moistened with thinner.

11 Now we’re getting there! Washes and light weathering unify the color blotches, yet the pre-shading still has influence. The heavier washes and shadowing add weight and depth, providing a basis for the mud and dirt to come. 24 FineScale Modeler September 2016

8 Weathering begins with artist’s oils. I add shadows with raw umber straight from the tube, using a dry brush to work it into the corners. Thinner is used to clean any excess. I’ll vary the splotches with thin shades of yellow, blue, brown, and green.

10 Washes are concentrated in areas where dirt accumulates. These steps lay the foundation for the earth effects in the following steps.

12 I elected to leave the model in its larger components for ease of painting.



Turning my attention to creating caked-on mud and dirt, I gave Ammo’s “Splashes” a try. These effects come in different colors and viscosities, from a wash to a thick paste, for all sorts of textures.

I stipple Ammo’s heavy mud onto areas of the heaviest accumulation.



Next, pigments are dabbed onto the moist surfaces. The combination of dry pigments and wet enamel effects creates dramatic yet naturallooking results.

The tracks are first given black primer, then a coat of Testors Model Master steel Metalizer as the main color. Then pigments and enamel effects are generously applied in several layers.

The British Mark I was a primitive beast by any standards, with the Male boasting two 6-pounder naval guns, three Hotchkiss 8mm machine guns, and a top speed of 4 mph. Nonetheless, it must have been a fearsome sight. Battlefields would never be the same. FSM




Adding Zimmerit to a late Tiger I

A full kit plus added resin makes for an exceptional model /// BY BILL PLUNK


ack in 2005, when Dragon irst introduced its 3-in-1 Tiger kits, the expectations of what should come in the box for a kit increased dramatically. he kits became something of a hot commodity as a result. My kit, the 1/35 scale PzKpfw VI Ausf E (Tiger I, Late Production, No. 6253), has been in my stash ever since, patiently waiting its turn at the bench. For this project, virtually everything needed is already in the box with the exception of Zimmerit. But an Atak resin set ills that gap. I also opted for Modelkasten workable tracks in place of the kit-supplied static individual links. 26 FineScale Modeler September 2016

Suspension and wheels As usual, work began with the suspension and road wheels. Even with the Tiger’s allsteel wheel suspension, the kit had plenty of wheels to assemble and mold seams to clean up with a sanding stick. A short run of Modelkasten tracks was assembled to ensure the sprocket teeth lined up properly and it the tracks and idlers without modiication. he kit includes a working torsion-bar suspension, so those rods were cleaned up and installed along with the swing arms. he road wheels were dry-it to make sure the arms would sit level while the glue set. Modelkasten includes a handy building

jig to hold ive links at a time and two guide horns per link. Connecting pins are separate parts. So, after a few hours of work, I had a run of 90 links, 1. he kit instructions suggest 95 links per side but that proved too long; only 93 were needed because I used the smaller idler option in a previous step, which is appropriate for this late-production Tiger.

Adding Zimmerit Turning back to the hull, I started work on the rear plate by adding the Atak resin Zimmerit panels, letting capillary action carry thin super glue under the panels, 2. he rear plate was installed to help address



A quick test-fit with the sprockets, idlers, and road wheels showed that everything was fitting with just the right amount of sag for my Tiger’s Modelkasten workable tracks.


Spreader bar


This spreader bar (a section of sprue) was left in to dry overnight.

the deliberate warp that Dragon introduced into its Tiger hulls to make the upper-hull deck plate it tightly. he hull’s front needs a little help to achieve that same result, so a spreader bar (made from a suitable length of sprue) was installed to brace the hull, 3. For the hull sides, I assembled the kit-supplied photoetched (PE) fenders and modiied the Atak panels by cutting slots in the Zimmerit to allow the fenders to sit correctly on the mount tabs, 4. I left of one of the brass fenders on the port side to show more Zimmerit and add character to the build, 5. Starboard fenders were next, and I allowed a little uneven spacing to show them as individual fenders as opposed to the straight single fender that you’d get with the kit’s solid plastic part, 6. Next, I attached the top hull plate and the kit’s PE screens with super glue gel. Lastly, the rear hull received its exhaust stacks and pre-formed brass heat shrouds. With all the plates set, I started on the hull’s front. I replaced the kit’s pre-bent steel wire with .5mm solder bent to the same shape, 7.

Small amounts of super glue gel were used to tack down edges of the Zimmerit where necessary.

Since the hull sides integrate with the front superstructure plate, I cut slots in the Zimmerit panels to make sure they would fit, too.

For tools, I used kit along with Grifon PE clamps, adding PE handles to tools that didn’t come with them, 8.

Main gun and turret I used the kit’s aluminum barrel and added the Atak late-style monocular gun sight/ resin mantlet in place of the kit’s part. I used an RB Model brass machine-gun barrel for the coaxial gun with a small amount of Apoxie Sculpt two-part putty to hold it in place, 9. he main gun was assembled with the smaller muzzle brake option and easily installed in the mantlet. For the turret, I chose the thicker twopart roof plate introduced in June 1944 production vehicles and added its details. he Atak set includes two styles of Zimmerit; I used the larger pattern commonly seen on Tiger turrets versus the smaller pattern that matched the hull, 10. he Atak-supplied resin view-port covers and escape hatch also were used in place of kit parts. hen the turret roof was installed and the bin added to the rear. A test-it with the hull showed everything was playing nice prior to painting, 11.

Painting I used Testors Model Masters enamels throughout, beginning with an airbrushing of Italian dark brown (No. 2111) as a primer, 12. he base coat was airbrushed with a 50/50 mix of panzer dunkelgelb (2095) and light gray (2170). Once that had dried, I applied the camo pattern. Working freehand, I irst airbrushed the red-brown stripes using a 50/50 mix of military brown (1701) and leather (1736). Olive green stripes were next; I used khaki (2106). Tigers in Normandy had a complicated camo pattern applied in the ield by individual crews, so I kept that in mind in terms of the stripe pattern and size, using the box art as a rough guide, 13. While the hull dried, the road wheels were given the same primer and base coat treatment. he tracks were airbrushed with burnt umber (2005) as a base coat, then set aside for additional weathering. he hull equipment and tools were hand detailed and installed. Metal portions of the tools were detailed with non-buffing Metalizer gunmetal (1405) and lightly




Squadron white putty was used to fill gaps. I left off a fender section on the port side to show off more of the resin Zimmerit.

The front superstructure plate also received the driver’s armored visor and the machine-gun ball mount.




The pre-bent wire didn’t accommodate the added dimensions of the Zimmerit to the plate, so I made my own.



The brass machine-gun barrel’s diameter was a little smaller than the kit part under the resin; a dab of putty held it in place.

brushed with steel (1420). Wooden items, such as shovel and pickax handles, received a base coat of the 50/50 dunkelgelb/light gray mix as a wood color followed by a wash of leather and a dusting of burnt umber artist pastels. Spare tracks for the hull and turret were given a light dry-brushing of steel followed by a wash of rust (No. 2180). Before the tracks were installed I added depth by using burnt orange and raw umber artist pastels. he wheels were then installed, with the exception of the outermost halves, to make it easier to continue with the weathering. 28 FineScale Modeler September 2016

Tow cables were cleaned up and the cleaning rods had their “female” thread ends drilled out with a No. 76 finger drill to add detail.

The resin panels are flat, but the turret is curved; I used smooth-jawed brass soldering clamps to persuade the panels while the glue set.


were sealed with PFM and received a pinTo prepare for weathering, I airbrushed the wash of burnt umber to bring out their tank with Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface details. Finish (PFM). After air-drying the model Once happy with their look, I installed for an hour, I applied decals the remaining road using Walthers Solvaset to wheels and sealed the help them conform to the decals on with a second Zimmerit surfaces, 14. A airbrushed coat of Ratio of PzKpfw VI soft brush and a toothPFM. pick, combined with genMy irst weathering Tiger I tanks tle prodding and multiple step was an application to Sherman tanks applications, ensured of a thinned wash of raw they settled properly. umber (2006), followed by produced Sprockets, idlers, a dot ilter using small in World War II and road wheels also dots of lat white (1768),

1,843: 49,234



To mount spare tracks on the turret sides (using some of the kit’s links), I installed short lengths of .8mm styrene rod.

As a primer, Italian brown enamel acts as a pre-shading to add depth to details. It also helps to check fits of the Zimmerit panels and my putty work, which become more visible with the paint.



After camo colors and touch-up, I airbrushed a mist coat of the basecolor mix from a distance of about 12" to tie it all together.

I opted for markings appropriate for Tiger 213 of the sPzAbt 101, which was ordered to meet the June 6, 1944, Allied invasion in Normandy and arrived in the region on June 12.



Dot filtering is usually pulled downward to create a streaks and fading. But on Zimmerit surfaces, the filters need to be pulled lengthwise for a similar effect.

raw sienna (2008), and panzer dunkelgelb, 15. After the wash had dried, I dry-brushed the original base coat mix with a square-tip brush to create depth and bring out hull details. All the weathering was sealed in with a spray of Testors Model Master lusterless lat (1960) to dull any remaining gloss and blend everything together. hen it was time for pigment weathering. First I used a combination of Mig

Adding a drop of liquid dishwashing soap to the wash breaks the surface tension and lets the wash flow into recessed details.

Productions dry mud with tap water on the tracks, road wheels, and lower hull. hen left it to air dry, 16. On the tracks, I adjusted the dried pigment one link at a time using a round stifbristled brush to remove excess and settle it into the details. he result is a nicely layered efect combining the earlier washes, scuffing, and pigments. he tracks were installed and the sprockets and idlers were glued in position once the sag had been properly set with the

working suspension. Mig light dust pigments were applied dry with a square stifbristled brush to add variation to the mud tones and blend the tracks and wheels together. Lastly, a radio antenna was added using an RB Model brass 2mm antenna mounted with super glue gel and hand-painted with non-buffing metalizer gunmetal (1423). My Tiger 213 was now ready to roll out of the Villers-Bocage and play its part in the Normandy ighting! FSM




Springtime in Berlin Dragon’s 1/35 scale T-34/85 gets a little more armor /// BY JIMMY NGO KEE SHYANG


he Soviet T-34 has always fascinated me. Most interesting is the T-34/85, an upgunned development of the famous Soviet medium tank. hough the T-34’s sloped armor ofered protection, many Soviet tankers augmented it with appliqué plates welded to the hull, or s ekranami (Russian for with screens) intended to detonate incoming rounds (especially 30 FineScale Modeler September 2016

from Panzerschrecks, the German counterpart of the bazooka) away from the hull. I decided to build a T-34/85 with this “bedspring armor” to depict the tank as Berlin fell in spring 1945 — the end of Hitler and the hird Reich. Dragon’s 1/35 scale T-34/85 Mod. 1944 (No. 6319) provided an excellent starting point.

57,339 – 84,070 Range of production estimates for T-34/76 and T-34/85 combined — various sources

1 Because my tank depicts 1945, not ‘44, I shaved off two bulges on the turret.

4 I removed the kit’s fenders to replace them with metal.

7 Photo-etched (PE) parts appear upfront (from LionRoar, No. LE35028). Thin styrene rod, softened with liquid cement and textured with a hobby knife, replicates a major weld bead on the glacis plate.

10 PE mounts, plastic kit parts, and a stretchedsprue seam finished the fuel barrel.

2 A little putty is used to create more-accurate weld beads.

5 The molded fuel caps are misplaced. I filed them off and puttied over associated details.

8 To make better fuel tanks, I measured the kit parts then cut the material I needed from copper sheet …

11 Bedspring standoff armor begins with a frame made from copper sheet and super glued together.

3 Brushing Tamiya liquid cement on the turret and lightly stippling with the applicator brush blends the weld beads and textures the cast turret surface.

6 I relocated the fuel caps and sculpted panel lines in the putty.

9 … and used needlenose pliers to form and roll the copper sheet to shape.

12 I cut mesh from a deep-fat fryer scoop to fit the frame.





The bedsprings are attached with floral wire. A pin vise opens holes to mount the wire.

Dented and bent, my bedsprings look about right. They’re not glued on yet, though — I’ll paint them off the model.

I combined PE mesh and copper strips for grilles on the engine deck.




Resin nuts and bolts serve as mounts for spare track upfront.

PE is key to modeling a battered toolbox for the fender.

Airbrushed Mr. Surfacer provides a receptive primer coat to begin painting.




A base coat of GSI Creos Mr. Color light green (No. 122) is highlighted with Mr. Color duck egg green (26).

After letting the paint dry thoroughly, I handpainted the white band and number on the turret with Vallejo Model Air white and chipped it with Vallejo Model Color Russian uniform green (924).

Where some use multicolored “dot filters” to add depth to a finish, I similarly apply thin filters of artist’s oils, one color at a time, dragging the oils out with a brush full of thinner. I analyze the effect before proceeding with another color.




After the filters dry, I add wear with a mixture of Vallejo Model Air camouflage light green (006) and white applied to edges and corners. Vallejo’s tank brown (041) and black gray (056) depict worn and bare metal.

Burnt umber artist’s oil further defines details and shows metal weeping heavy rust from the bedspring and fuel-barrel mounts.

To contour the tracks, I glued and mounted them on the tank and worked them into the rubble before the glue set.

32 FineScale Modeler September 2016




A mix of Mig pigments simulates mud on the lower hull and under the fenders.

Areas that collect dust are shown with a mix of Mig sand and Euro dust pigments. I apply the pigments, then brush on touches of turpentine for fixer. I also brushed the hull with vertical streaks of the same pigments.

Oil and fuel spills are a mix of clear gloss, black and burnt umber artist’s oils, and Mig smoke black pigments.




I added corrosion by brushing on rusty and dusty Mig pigments, then super glued the bedsprings in their mounting holes.

Tracks are treated with a base coat of red brown and heavy doses of dust-colored pigments. I removed excess pigments with a cotton swab, then rubbed the high spots with a graphite pencil to show bare, polished metal.

I shaped the display base with styrene foam and coated it with plaster of paris.




After the plaster dries, I’m able to draw brick and cobblestone patterns and carve them out.

Modeling the fall of Berlin calls for plenty of debris. I carved more bricks from plaster of paris and strewed them about the base, fixing them in place with a white glue/water mix.

I sprayed the base with dark gray for preshading and a light gray over-coat.




Bricks and broken walls are painted with hull red and orange.

Thin Vallejo white details the masonry, where black and white artist’s oils replicated fire and soot stains.

With rubble comes a lot of dust, modeled with Mig pigments.




Watery spots are a mixture of black artist’s oil and artist’s gloss varnish. When they were dry, I flowed super glue to create different textures.

I wrote graffiti on the wall with a white artist’s pencil — and, of course, added more dust with sandy pigments.

Tamiya lamppost

Scratchbuilt screen armor

Plaster of paris rubble Filters highlight detail

German armor fragments

Most of the modeling techniques in this diorama are well known and not difficult — but, like the Red Army, they were victorious as they overwhelmed resistance and captured the scene. FSM 34 FineScale Modeler September 2016

Tamiya America, Inc.

36 Discovery, Ste 200, Irvine, CA 92618

(800) 826-4922



4 steps to a

BETTER PATTON Easy fixes for Dragon’s 1/35 scale M48A3 BY AARON SKINNER


f you model Vietnam War armor, you need an M48A3. It doesn’t get much better than Dragon’s 1/35 scale kit. Modern tooling and accurate shapes combined with good its make it a sweetheart of a build. he second boxing (No. 3546) includes the searchlight and mantlet dust cover omitted from the initial release. But even the best kits can use some improvements. Here are four things you can do to make a better Vietnam Patton.


Cast texture

A Dragon molded superb cast texture on the lower half of the hull, but it’s absent from sections of the upper half. I brushed Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement over the hull a section at a time, … 36 FineScale Modeler September 2016

B … waited a few seconds, then stippled the soft plastic with an old, short-bristle brush to produce the texture. The same technique enhanced the rear of the hull.


Drive sprockets

A Dragon missed the three lightening holes in the outer halves of the drive sprockets.

C After peeling the tape off the wheel, I placed it on a smooth surface and divided it into thirds.

E Using a No. 65 bit in a pin vise, I drilled holes at either end of the lightening holes.

B To locate the holes, I wrapped a thin strip of tape around the inside edge of a sprocket. A sharp No. 11 blade cut the ends square.

D Then, I placed the tape on each sprocket and marked the location of each hole.

F After removing the section between the holes with a knife, I refined the shape with a rattail file. A light application of liquid cement smoothed rough edges left by the file.



Searchlight cover

A The kit includes decals for the searchlight cover, but no cover. To make one, I super glued a piece of lead foil to the front of the light.

C For the cover’s collar, I glued a 1⁄8" (3.5mm) strip of foil around the front of the light. I left a tiny lip of the foil protruding past the edge.

E I glued 1⁄16" strips of lead foil to the cover, then wrapped them around the bars on the back of the light to form four straps, two on top and two underneath. Fine wire was used for buckles. 38 FineScale Modeler September 2016

B Holding the searchlight face-down against a hard surface, I trimmed away excess foil. The thin, soft material is easily cut with a sharp knife.

D Folding the lip over the front produced a line of stitching between the sections.

F To power the light, I super glued solder wire into a hole drilled into the socket on the roof of the turret. It runs through the lifting hook and will be attached to the light when it is added.


Gun barrel



The kit’s plastic gun is OK, but Orange Hobby’s turned-metal replacement (No. G35-130) features a finer muzzle brake and a hollow barrel end. I started construction by assembling the thin metal brake.


I super glued the photo-etched (PE) collar around the barrel and then attached the muzzle brake.


Sized for the kit barrel, the vinyl mantlet cover fits snugly on the metal part. Rather than aligning everything at the same time, I left the cover forward on the gun, which I attached with 5-minute epoxy. Letting the gun droop against the table as the glue set aligned the muzzle brake.

Once the epoxy set, I pushed the mantlet cover into position and secured it with liquid glue. The flexible Dragon Styrene needs a little pressure to get the attachment brackets tight against the surface. Lead-foil straps

Helmet from spares box with hand-painted peace symbol

The addition of aftermarket stowage, a resin crew, and spare parts finished my Patton as a member of C Company, 1st Battalion, 69th Armor in Vietnam, 1967. FSM

Legend ration boxes on scratchbuilt shelf

Legend resin stowage (No. LF1269)

Bravo 6 resin figures (No. B6-35067)

Bronco M2 machine gun on Tamiya M113 mount

Bronco shovel

Button-and-carpet thread




Recycling project Updating and saving an aging Tamiya M1 Abrams from the landfill /// BY SEAN LYNCH


ack when Red Dawn was in theaters, Ronald Reagan was president, and NATO was releasing a load of new weapons, I was big into building modern armor. My dad would take me to the hobby shop and special-order the new releases so I could have them as soon as they were available (often at just $10-$15 each for these bad boys). Being a ine young red-blooded American, I was hot to get Tamiya’s M1 Abrams.

That was then … Now there are many better M1 models but no M1 105mm versions, and Tamiya’s is long out of production … and then my mom called, asking (whether it was asking is a whole other conversation) if I’d come and clean my stuf out of her basement before she threw it all away. I did, and there was my Tamiya M1 Abrams 105mm (kit No. 3624), albeit under an inch of dust and who knows what else from sitting in a basement for 25-plus years, 1. I didn’t want to throw away this bit of my childhood, However, my wife didn’t 40 FineScale Modeler September 2016

want my dusty old “work of art” in the house. hen it struck me. What if I remove the old paint and rework the kit? his would save me some money, keep the M1 from the landill, and be a lot of fun recycling and reworking the old kit. I even had some spare M1 parts.

Off with the old First I had to clean the tank and remove decades-old paint. I wanted minimal work and to be environmentally and personally safe without melting the kit. I used Cascade powdered dishwasher soap on a few spare side skirts as a test. I igured if the ones on the kit were melted, I could replace them. In addition, they seemed easy enough to remove from the built kit with minimal damage. Preliminary tests with the soap and a little bleach worked. After an hour of soaking, the paint came of easily with light scrubbing from an old toothbrush. Some underlying paint remained and was removed with ine steel wool. I didn’t see any damage to the plastic. After a bit more

testing, I soaked the tank in a tub of the soap, 2.

But wait, I got lucky I need to stop here and say how lucky I was that all of the tank’s parts were easily removed. he glue I had used years ago didn’t stand the test of time. he bond points had become brittle and snapped apart with little pressure. So I disassembled the tank with a few exceptions, 3. Now, instead of a light rework and upgrade, I was going all in.

Back to paint stripping I mixed dishwasher soap in a tub of water and placed all the parts in the tub before going to work. hat night (about 12 hours later), it was a tub of olive drab water. he paint had completely dissolved. I removed all the parts and gave each a quick scrub with the toothbrush under running water to remove soap and residual paint, 4. he paint was removed from all of the parts except for the deepest recesses and a few stains. he taillights were painted with



The difference is monumental between my recycled and rehabbed Tamiya M1 105mm Abrams from the 1980s (left) and how it looked when rescued from my Mom’s basement (above). That’s not Mig Productions dust pigments you see, it’s 25-plus years of real dust.



Lucky for me, the kit was easily disassembled before I began paint removal. Surprisingly, I broke only one part.

enamels that did not dissolve. Yet I felt like I had a new kit to build, 5.

The hull of it his early ’80s kit was simple and based on an Abrams trial version, not a production model. his is evident in the lower hull, main hull, and running gear. I wanted to use as many original parts as I could but be as accurate as possible, so I needed additional details — some scratchbuilt, some replacement parts. I added: Dragon M1A1 AIM (No. 3535); Trumpeter M1 Panther II (00346); Voyager M2 HB machine gun set (vehiclemounted remote control iring version, VBS50204); Voyager M1A2 Abrams PE update set (PE35021); Trumpeter T-156 tracks (TK02); styrene; and miscellaneous items from my spares box. In addition, I used Tamiya’s Modern U.S. Accessory Set (MM-141). First I tackled the lower hull and run-

Discussion boards led me to use powdered dishwasher soap to remove paint. First, I removed the built kit’s side skirts for testing.

The first layer of paint came off easily, but some underlying paint remained. Here you see my test side skirt with an untreated portion.

ning gear. Suspension arms were molded solid to the hull, but they appear moderately accurate (at least I didn’t have to worry about loating road wheels). Tensioning gear for the tension wheel was absent. However, there were enough extra in the Dragon M1A1 kit to allow me to modify them to it. he remainder of the lower hull was missing many details, such as mud scrapers, lifting hooks, add-on armor, and lightening holes on the drive sprockets, 6. hese were all added using scratchbuilt parts and drilling the holes in drive sprockets, 7. here are two plugs that are raised on the lower rear hull of the kit. hese are only on trial Abrams. Photos of production Abrams show these to be lush with the hull and closed. I cut of the plugs, ground the approximate shape into the hull, and cut sheet styrene to shape with the details added, 8. Original kit tracks were vinyl and inac-

curate, but inding replacement tracks (T-156) was a challenge. Apparently, one or two companies, including Trumpeter, made T-156 tracks, but I’m guessing they are out of production based on how hard it is to ind them. I found a set of individual links, though, and they had excellent detail, 9. Building them was straightforward with no it issues and minimal cleanup. he tracks it the Tamiya drive sprockets and road wheels perfectly, 10. Next, I painted the suspension; the side skirts would cover much of the lower hull once installed, making painting and weathering difficult. he main hull was base-coated Tamiya NATO black (XF-69), painted with Vallejo Model Air U.S. dark green (016), given a black-brown oil wash, and dirtied up with a mixture of Mig mud colors covered with a light dusting of Tamiya buf (XF-57), 11. his was masked of when the rest of the tank was painted.




After the main paint-removal session, a few traces remained but were easily removed with fine steel wool.



Some missing details are added to the Tamiya kit’s lower hull, though much will be hidden once the side skirts are reattached.

The rear hull he engine exhaust is covered by steel slats. On the kit this is molded solid to the rear piece, providing no depth. I wanted to open it up, but didn’t want to cut it out and scratchbuild a new one. So I used my motor tool with a steel cutter to thin the inside wall until the plastic behind it opened, 12. Flash was removed with a hobby knife. Since this area now opened into a void, I built a rough approximation of the rear vents, painted them dark green, and inserted them in the rear hull. I also cut away a portion of the protecting rings around the taillights. he taillights were drilled out and cutouts made, 13 and 14. he hole in the rear panel was then illed, wiring was run, and replacement taillights from the spares box were installed. Rear mudlaps were removed for modiication of the side skirts, and the rear plate was reshaped to match the real vehicle. he mudlaps were replaced with PE from the 42 FineScale Modeler September 2016

The Tamiya lower hull (bottom) is dimensionally similar to the Dragon lower hull (top) but doesn’t have much detail.

I corrected the drain plugs with sheet styrene cut to shape.

Voyager M1A2 set. Arms for the vents were taken from the Trumpeter kit. Additional details, such as lifting hooks and a weatherstrip under the exhaust vents, were added.

Upper hull and side skirts Gaps between the upper and lower hulls required illing at the front and rear. I roughly illed them with sheet styrene, then smoothed with putty and sanded. Screens on the upper deck were molded plastic; I cut them out and replaced them with mesh from the Voyager set or with stock mesh cut to shape, 15. Various smaller details were added, such as missing weld seams, hinges, retaining clips for the front fenders, and rebuilt headlight guards. I then drilled out the headlights so M.V. Products lenses could be inserted, 16. On the hull’s left side, the exhaust for the crew heater and a recessed area for part

of the NBC (Nuclear, Biological, and Chemical) system are missing. hese were drilled out and scratchbuilt pieces were installed, 17. he kit’s side skirts also are bare bones. So, weatherstripping was added to their tops with styrene strip and rivets cut from styrene rod. Hinge connections from the skirts to the hull also were added. Many Abrams in the ield in 1982-83 had the last skirt cut in local shops to prevent mud from getting stuck between the skirt and drive sprocket and increasing the risk of throwing a track. I cut the last skirt to relect this and added a missing hinge (made from styrene rod) between the nextto-last and last panel. he lifting mount on the front panel is solid; it was removed and replaced by a hollow one. Molded wire steps on the bottom front panel were replaced with brass wire. Finally, small squares were added at various points.

9 The painted replacement tracks (left) are more detailed than the original vinyl tracks.


10 Once the tracks were ready, I tested them on the suspension. Their fit was excellent.


I painted and weathered the lower hull’s suspension before reattaching the side skirts.

A motor tool with steel cutter was used to grind away plastic behind the slats to open them.



The thinned out slats look much better. Here one taillight has also been removed.

The rear hull takes shape after all the modifications have been made.




I cut the engine deck’s molded screens out and replaced them with photo-etched mesh.

A front view shows the redone headlight guard, the mud flap’s retaining clip, windshield washers, periscopes, welds, and the modified front of the skirt.



Here we see the details added to the side skirts, the crew heater exhaust, the NBC box, and stowage-box handles.

For the main gun, I added rivets, a new muzzle reference, and a Hoffman device. I also sanded the barrel back into round.

Turret time First I tackled the turret’s 105mm main gun. When I originally built this kit, I illed the gun’s seams with putty and while trying to sand it I took the barrel out of round. No replacement metal barrel exists though. Another modeler sent me a Trumpeter K1 105mm barrel, but it had too much taper at the base. Still, the muzzle reference from the K1 barrel was far superior to the Tamiya ofering, so I used that. A new ring clamp for the muzzle reference was added as well. he Tamiya barrel was taken apart, the seam reilled, and the barrel brought more into round with careful sanding. he barrel’s thermal sleeve has small rivets in front and behind the bore evacuator that go around the barrel’s circumference. hese were added using Archer Fine Transfers surface 44 FineScale Modeler September 2016

details rivets. Since this was being modeled as an Abrams on exercises, I added the Hofman ire simulation device from the Tamiya accessories set, 18. he gun mantlet was missing several details and had a noticeable gap between the sides and front. he gap was hidden by covering it with a thin piece of styrene cut to shape. he top of the mantlet should have strips on the side with three bolts on each. In addition, there should be a hinged metal strip at the mantlet’s rear, 19. he strips were all made from styrene strip while the bolts were from Grandt Line. Hinges were taken from a Trumpeter M1 Panther. he lash suppressor for the coaxial machine gun from the Tamiya kit was replaced with one from the Trumpeter kit, though the required internal ribs were

added using more styrene strip. Next I replaced the turret’s side rails; they weren’t quite right, and one was broken. I used the kit parts to make a simple jig and used toothpicks pressed into Styrofoam at the curve points of the rails, 20. hen I took .020" brass rod and bent it to shape, not worrying about length as these would be pushed through the existing holes for the rails. Rail brackets were next up. I used the kit’s brackets as templates to cut new brackets from sheet styrene. Stowage boxes were scratchbuilt as well, though I used the kit-supplied tops with handles. he original machine guns were replaced. he M2 is from Voyager and the M240 is from the Trumpeter kit, with a feed tray from the Voyager M1A2 update set. I replaced the smoke dischargers with



Various styrene pieces were cut to modify the mantlet.

Replacing the side rails meant creating a crude jig out of toothpicks and the original kit’s part.



Here are the new brass rails, a rebuilt stowage box, Dragon smoke discharger, scratchbuilt 5-gallon fuel-can holder, stowage, and updated machine guns.

The turret got a lot of attention as I added optics, grab handles, and the commander’s cupola-lifting eye bolts.

an extra from the Dragon M1A1 AIM kit. Finally I added the web stowage holder at the turret’s rear. It was made with lengths of tape run through tie-down cleats. Stowage was made from Apoxie Sculpt as was the tarp. Other items for detail accuracy include: bolts, a grab handle on the loader’s hatch, weld seams and optics for the commander’s viewer. he wind sensor is an extra from the Dragon kit as are the tow cables. he beacon is from a Tamiya Leopard 2A6 kit. he road wheel atop the turret and the MRE boxes are from Tamiya’s Modern Accessories set, 21 and 22 and 23.

Painting I sprayed the tank with Citadel Chaos black primer. Over that I used Tamiya dark green (XF-61) mixed with a bit of Tamiya

clear (X-22) for a satin inish. he turret and hull were painted on different days, and the turret turned out darker green while the hull was a more yellowbrown green. Apparently my two bottles of dark green were from diferent lots. I preferred the turret’s shade, so misted a thin coat of its dark green on the hull, leaving some of the panels, skirts, and the gun barrel (excluding the fume extractor) in the more yellow green to break up the single color’s monotony, 24. he base coat was lightened with Tamiya JSDGF dark green (XF-73) and added to the earlier dark green. hen a thin mix was misted into the center panels to add tonal variation. I added a second highlight to increase variation. his mix included more JSDGF dark green, but it was thinned more than

the irst highlight. Smaller parts were hand-painted with the mapping technique using various greens from Vallejo, 25. I followed by airbrushing a thin mix of Tamiya red brown (XF-64) and NATO black to post-shade the panel lines. Next came a pinwash of brown and black oil paints. A light dry-brushing of a black enamel and black artist’s oil mix was applied to edges of frequently touched parts. his gives the tank a worn look in high-traffic areas without going to the extreme of chipping, 26 and 27.

Finally, the dirt Before adding the dirt I installed M.V. Products lenses in the headlights and painted the guns and optics with Vallejo




Up top I also created stowage webbing, a wind sensor, stowage, and a beacon light stand.

Painting started with a base coat of dark green (Tamiya XF-61). In this photo, the more yellow-brown shade was used.




The hull looks even better after a second highlight coat that included JSDGF dark green (XF-73), along with some mapping.

Drybrushing a black enamel and black oil mix helped create the look of wear on high-traffic areas.

All that was left was to add dirt and mud to a model that looks infinitely more detailed and realistic than what I had built as a kid.

paints. Markings were made by painting a Tamiya buf (XF-57) rectangle and adding Archer Fine Transfers black stencils and stars as seen in various photos. he strip for the multiple integrated laser engagement system sensors around the turret was made by painting masking

tape cut to size and sticking it to the turret. Now it was time to ling the dirt. I used several photos as inspiration, wanting to create the look of dried, dusty mud with traces of fresh mud. I used Liquitex stucco acrylic gel on the side skirts’ front and rear portions and front and rear lower hull. I am fond of this gel’s texture for creating groundwork efects. I wanted to create scratches in the skirts’ dirt layer, so I used thin stretches of Silly Putty to mask of the underlying green. A thin coating of Tamiya buf was sprayed onto the skirts and the putty removed before a second thin buf coat was applied. A wet-mud base color was made by mixing Tamiya lat earth (XF-52) and khaki (XF-49) to paint the gel areas and the skirts’ lower edges. he gel was then washed with the black-brown pinwash mix, followed by a dry-brushing of buf. I created random rain streaks using AK Interactive dust efects (AK015) by painting a thin line in the desired location. After allowing it to dry about 10 minutes, I used a brush dampened with paint thinner to stump the lines to appear opaque. Mud splashes were made by dipping a brush in

the dust efects and blowing excess onto the model with an airbrush. he wet-mud look was made by applying AK’s fresh mud (AK016) in a few skirtpanel breaks. A thinned version was then used to enhance the textured look and to paint wet mud on the road wheels. Fuel stains were added using AK’s fuel stains (AK025) and inally, Mig pigments dry mud (P232) was randomly added to the tank’s upper areas. he vignette’s road is made from 600grit sandpaper. he road received a wash and mud from the tracks was applied. he groundwork’s base is Apoxie Sculpt painted tan. he tall grass is light yellow and golden brown from Woodland Scenics, cut to the desired length and glued on. I painted the grass NATO green, with the underlying light yellow and golden brown giving a nice variation. he igure is from Dragon’s U.S. Tank Crew (No. 3020). his M1 resurrection was a fun trip down memory lane for a kid who grew up in the 1980s, even inspiring me to pull out old yearbooks (yikes)! FSM

References M1 Abrams in Action, Armor No. 26, Jim Mesko, Squadron/Signal, ISBN 978-0-89747-222-7

Abrams: A History of the American Main Battle Tank Vol. 2, R. P. Hunnicutt, Presidio Press, ISBN 978-0-89141-388-2

Personal photos of M1 105mm Abrams, at First Division Museum at Cantigny, Wheaton, Ill.

46 FineScale Modeler September 2016



SCARBOROUGH, ONTARIO, CANADA In 2009 the Royal Canadian Air Force marked the centennial of Canadian flight with a commemorative scheme for a CF-18 of 410 Squadron. “When the Leading Edge decals came out, I dove in,” John says. He built Academy’s 1/72 scale F/A-18C and modified the gear doors to close them for an in-flight display. After much polishing and days of decals, he applied GSI Creos Mr. Hobby Super Clear, buffing with 25003200-grit MicroMesh pads between thin coats and finishing with Tamiya polishing compound. Thermoformed 1⁄4" acrylic rods keep the fighter airborne.




ANKARA, TURKEY Cetin built a diorama around Dragon’s 1/72 scale Hornisse, gathering Resina72 accessories, a MiniWorld machine gun, Orion figures, and a Revell Germany dog. Much of the rest is scratchbuilt.

SEND US YOUR PICTURES! Shouldn’t your model be in Reader Gallery? FineScale Modeler is always accepting new material from around the world. Upload high-resolution digital images (preferably unedited, RAW format) with complete captions at, or burn it all on a disc and mail it to FineScale Modeler, Reader Gallery, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Be sure to tell us the kit manufacturer, model, scale, modifications, paint and finishes used, and reason for choosing the model, along with your name and address. We look forward to seeing your work!


CATHEYS VALLEY, CALIFORNIA Decals from SuperScale International marked Eduard’s 1/48 scale Fw 190A-6 as that of Luftwaffe ace Erich Rudorffer, who claimed 222 victories flying in Europe, the Mediterranean, and on the Eastern Front. 48 FineScale Modeler September 2016

Finishing a

Marine C-9B

It’s all in the details when it comes to building a Semper Fi transport /// BY FRANK CUDEN


o, I attended a meeting of my model club, where Greg Drawbaugh of DrawDecals fame was in attendance. He had a bunch of new releases with him, one of which was the venerable Airix DC-9 kit — a very colorful U.S. Marines C-9B transport aircraft. Actually, both the hi-viz and low-viz schemes are contained on the sheet, but I opted for a colorful addition to my showcase. he yellow-red cheat line along the side of the fuselage would brighten things up a bit.

The build I began by illing windows, entry and baggage hold doors, and a few sink marks on this old standby kit. Squadron White Putty

was my putty of choice, and it did its job, 1. After the fuselage halves were glued together, I added the clear windshield and faired it into the fuselage outline, using white putty and a much-needed wet-sanding. During the build, I became aware of Contrails Models’ (formerly InFormation) resin JT8D engines (CM44-DC-9-E). hey have ine detail on them and would replace the Airix kit engines. With the engines mounted, the basic kit was together and a coat of gray primer was sprayed on, 2. Some minor dings and scratches underneath were dealt with, and I added a piece of sheet plastic to the nose gear well to cover up the unsightly seam that exists no matter what, 3.

Rectangular holes on the wings would be illed with the lap actuator fairings, and the two circular holes forward of them would be illed by the lower wing strakes later on. Airix molds the lower wing half to it into the upper half, so I had to do a little illing just inboard from the wingtips.

Base coat My favorite white is from Testors range of enamel paints. I’ve been using it for years, and no model has yellowed as a result. I thin it with lacquer thinner and blast on a cover coat. hen I spray the area again by dumping out the remaining thinned paint left in the color cup, leaving the residue, adding lacquer thinner, mix and re-spraying the white areas. he lacquer thinner levels




The lower fuselage half has received the putty treatment, as will the one above it.



I found my addition to the nose gear well to be an easy way to eliminate a sunken seam. However, it was all for naught because the nose gear doors are closed when the aircraft is on the ground — just a simple oversight that happens from time to time.

the inished coat, rendering the surface glass-smooth, 4. I let the crown and tail sit a few days for a good, deep dry. I then began working on the metal wing surfaces, having irst sprayed on a coat of the now discontinued Floquil old silver, 5. he lap actuator housings and lower wing strakes had earlier been glued in place. Usually, a couple of applications will ill in hairline seams. Given the lacquer-based nature of Floquil, I was able to mask over it within an hour, something Testors does not allow. Even with Floquil products, some minor illing does occur when one sprays on a coat. I used Alclad II’s duraluminum (ACL-102) for the area immediately forward of the laps and ailerons and Alclad II’s white aluminum (ACL-106) for the laps and ailerons. he three colors together do produce diferences in tonality — how50 FineScale Modeler September 2016

I extended the aft end of the tail according to photos from the Internet. This particular aircraft displayed a “boat tail” extension.

Another nice feature of the Testors white enamel paint is its ability to fill in small, shallow imperfections.

ever, the efect is subtle. I repeated the process on the upper wing using lat gull gray for the center wing-box section, 6. I had previously masked of thin sections on the leading edge slats and latcoated them so they would stand out a bit next to the old silver. With the airbrush cranked up, I masked and sprayed old silver on the stabilizer leading edges. Although DrawDecals’ instructions show the horizontal stabs and elevators as light gull gray, e-mail conversations with Mike Egan and Jodie Peeler, author of Douglas DC-9/ MD-80 — At the Gate No. 1 (ISBN 978-089747-516-7), determined that the horizontal tail planes were white and the leading edges were silver. I’ve been told that the instruction sheet for the decals will be corrected. It took efort and patience to mask the Marine C9-B’s lower fuselage

before painting it light gull gray, 7. It always takes a lot of time to mask intricate patterns, and this one was no exception.

Cheat line Note the circular “step” demarcation along the fuselage side, 8. he cheat line incorporated the Marine Corps emblem about midway along the trim so the change in level had to be taken into account when masking. I cut a circle of the correct diameter, added it, and then continued forward with the masking at a lower level. hat was somewhat of a headache, but luck was with me as I measured correctly. he cheat line must line up both fore and aft, so considerable time was spent eyeballing and drawing lines. I inally cut the cheat line decal from the sheet, reined things a bit by cutting close to it, and used it as a guide.



The paint does have a sheen to it, which is what I was looking for. I used thinned white glue to fill in the model’s slight gaps.

To provide another subtle difference in the metal finish, I masked off and sprayed the ailerons using SnJ Spray Metal.

Circular step for emblem



I used Tamiya masking tape for the hard edges and filled in on the wings with drafting tape that has a lower tack.



The Marines logo, windows, and cheat line are one piece, hence my desire to cut it in half. In the end everything matched up thanks to a slow pace and a lot of measuring.

Rather than putting if of, I decided at that point to soak and apply the cheat line. I made one vertical cut just behind the Marine Corps emblem before applying the decal, and that simpliied matters a great deal, 9. Prepping the painted surface with Micro Set, I was able to slide the decal from its backing paper and apply it with time for proper positioning. I repeated the process for the forward portion of the decal. With all the prior measuring, I breathed a sigh of relief when the entire decal was in place and, I might add, in the right place! here is a short cheat line that is partially placed directly above the engine pylon, which completes the side fuselage adorn-

Much thought and careful measuring determined the background for the Marine emblem to come.

Here you can see the large cargo door, the national insignia on the engine, windshield decals in place, and I’ve added a black stripe for the outer edges of the anti-glare panel. I began applying very light panel lines using an artist’s B drawing pencil.

ment, and it is visible on the rear fuselage. hat piece mates with the other side, and if you’ve done it right it forms a V underneath. Again, I exhaled another sigh of relief as they matched.

Painting and detailing Taking a break from the tedious tasks of decal measurements and application, I cut out and installed the black MARINES decal on the upper right and lower left wings and the national insignia on the upper left and lower right, 10. I added the landing gear and attached the elevator, showing the left one up and the right one down, a unique arrangement I

learned courtesy of Peeler’s book, 11. I sprayed Alclad II’s duraluminum on the leading edges of the elevators and applied small squares of black decal striping in two positions. Small air-conditioning vent decals were placed on the aft fuselage. Red warning decals for the air stairs were added, as well as short sections of black, thin decal striping that had been applied to the engine cowlings to represent fasteners, 12. Two small, clear M.V. Products light lenses are located along the fuselage side, directly below the cheat line. Simply drilling a depression and attaching them with white glue added a little more to the model, 13. I outlined the lower fuselage landing




I’m told that this series of aircraft could have both elevators up, one up and one down, or both in the down position. I thought the unique positioning would add something.


Clear light lenses

Note the small blade antenna made from sheet plastic just forward of the fin.


Additional blade antennae were added to the upper fuselage, one of which I discovered is a GPS antenna.

Note how well the rear, under-fuselage cheat line meets. I wish I could say I planned it that way, but the luck of correct positioning was with me!



Using a brass template, I penciled in the baggage door outlines. Subtle additional streaking was done on the upper wing.

The finished C-9B is now ready to roll out.

gear doors and the rear air stairs door with pencil, 14. Tamiya’s NATO black (XF-69) is a good representation of tire color. Gluing in the outer or inner wheels and then enlarging the mounting hole of the remaining wheels will allow enough movement to guarantee that they all touch when glued in place. his is a simple solution to mounting multiple wheels on one gear leg. A light application of medium gray pastel provided just a hint of streaking and grime underneath. I used Floquil old silver to spray both the in and horizontal stabilizer leading edges. From photos, I knew I would be adding a couple of red lashing 52 FineScale Modeler September 2016

beacons, one about mid-fuselage on top and one farther aft on the dorsal fuselage. Even 1/144 scale is not too small to add rotating beacons and navigation lights. All of the decals went on well, and I didn’t have to contend with the dreaded “silvering” of decal carrier ilm not completely adhered to the surface. To replicate the wingtip navigation lights, I decided it would be easier to use Microscale’s Kristal Klear (MI-9) rather than attempt to tailor the CMK lights to it. A inal coat of Tamiya clear red (X-27) and clear coat were painted over this. he engine pylons were sprayed with Floquil old silver, as were the leading edges

of the in and stabilizers, and the aft ends of the engines were done with Alclad II’s duraluminum. Alclad II’s polished aluminum (ACL-102) accented the intakes of the engine cowlings. I placed a short length of masking tape on each panel line and gently dragged a medium gray pastel from the edge of the tape backwards to relect the slipstream pattern, 15. Boundless schemes exist for the DC-9. It can be shortened and lengthened, depending on the scheme you choose. Flaps can be dropped and the elevators can be repositioned. All of that’s enough to keep a modeler busy for quite some time! FSM

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WORKBENCH REVIEWS FSM experts build and evaluate new kits

AMK hits a bull’s-eye with MiG-31


ublicity for AvantGarde Model Kits’ (AMK) 1/48 scale MiG-31 promised it would be “very easy to build.” Did AMK deliver with that tagline? Yes it did! The kit arrives in a sturdy, tightly packed box, and it’s obvious that a lot of thought went into the engineering and production of this kit. Parts breakdown addresses alignment issues: The one-piece upper wing establishes the anhedral; the vertical tails and lower strakes are molded with sections of the rear fuselage. Leading- and trailing-edge flaps are provided in both neutral or drooped positions with tabs for alignment. Construction of the intakes is a treat because the parts click into place. Some of the detail inside the intakes won’t be visible, but you’ll know it’s there! The main wheel well components attach 54 FineScale Modeler September 2016

to the intake trunks and are equally detailed; the structural molding pops under washes and dry-brushing. The nose wheel well looks good, too, but that’s where I ran into an issue. The instructions have you assemble and install the strut before the bay is attached inside the fuselage. However, the nose-gear leg is fragile and I snapped off the lower portion early in the build. I repaired the break with wire. The main gear legs feature outer halves that encase an inner strut. This would be great if the strut were made of metal, but it’s plastic and doesn’t add strength to the part. Overall, the undercarriage is the weakest aspect of this kit in terms of execution and final strength. AMK surpassed itself with the engineering of the forward fuselage, slidemolding the cockpit section as one part.

The cockpit slides into the nose, providing a positive, strong assembly. Brilliant! The well-appointed cockpit features an accurate representation of the layout of the panels and side walls. However, no decals are provided for the flat dials; I applied Mike Grant instrument decals. The K-36 seats went together easily. The dimensions seem off — the bases look too wide — but they fit the cockpit. No harnesses are provided. (Since I built this model, AMK released a kit of the earlier MiG-31B/BS, which includes photoetched seat belts.) The color callouts indicate painting the seats black. But many MiG-31s are fitted with a later version of the K-36 ejection seat that uses a dark forest green on the cushions. In addition to the wing flaps, the kit includes several options: opened or closed canopies supplied as separate pieces for the

former and one piece for the latter; posable tail planes; and separate rudders. Five options are given for the refueling probe. The instructions show the infrared search pod under the nose only in the deployed position, but it’s easy to display it retracted as it’s typically seen on the ground. Just omit part I22 and glue the pod inside the recess. Slide molding produced weapons with all of the fins in place, and they require little assembly. Fit is so good that most of the parts virtually snap together. I ended up with a gap under the wings where they meet the fuselage that I filled with epoxy putty. (This may have been “operator error,” considering how well everything else fit). At one point, I lost track of a seam to be glued — it looked the same on both sides, the fit was that good!

The panel lines are wide, soft-edged, and deep. This makes weathering the model super easy as the recessed details accept washes beautifully. But they could be a little finer and more delicate. I spent a fair chunk of the more than 60 enjoyable hours I took to build this project applying the several hundred decals. The markings performed flawlessly with no silvering. The MiG-31 has only worn gray camouflage in squadron service. But these aircraft get dirty, so the scope for weathering is large. I was a little indulgent here, too, putting a fair amount of effort into wear and tear. What a ripper of a kit! I see myself building another and really going to town on it. – Matthew Walker

Kit: No. 88003 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: AvantGarde Model Kits, Price: $79.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 292 parts (3 PE), decals Pros: Top-notch engineering and molding; nice options; nearly flawless fits; great decals Cons: Weak landing gear legs; recessed panel lines seem a tad heavy



Tanmodel RF-84 Thunderflash


he plastic in Tanmodel’s RF-84 is gorgeous, with beautiful recessed panel lines, terrific detail, and no flash or ejector-pin marks that will be visible. The instruction manual features CAD illustrations rather than black-and-white drawings. Large, red arrows indicate part placement, but the locations are sometimes vague, especially for parts without locators. There are also a few mistakes, such as mislabeled parts, so study the instructions before starting construction.

Kit: No. 2201 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: Tanmodel, Price: $79.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 180 parts, decals Pros: Plenty of options; separate tires; nice surface detail; display base Cons: Weak camera attachments; parts locations vague in instructions; decal adhesion problems

56 FineScale Modeler September 2016

The build begins with the multipart ejection seat and detailed cockpit, followed by the engine intakes and exhaust; they presented no problems. The nose recon bays are filled with cameras with clear lenses and film canisters that should be installed even if you choose to display the bays buttoned up. The instructions indicate the equipment keeps the nose grounded. I stuffed BBs into the film canisters as insurance against the model being a tail-sitter. If you pose the camera-bay doors open, you’ll have to cut into the fuselage and fit separate doors. I left the bays closed because the camera mounts are weak. I used a lot of super glue securing them — it didn’t look pretty. The fuselage halves fit around the internal assemblies without issue. Next, I assembled the wings with their separate control surfaces, but left them off for painting. They slide over the intake trunks and into recesses on the fuselage. No spar is provided and the joint seems a little weak. Installing them before painting would likely make a sturdier connection. The separate wing fences fit tightly. I had to sand them a little to install them. Tanmodel provides crystal-clear open and closed canopies; I used the latter. Optional parts provide open or closed

speed brakes. The detail is terrific inside and out, but there’s no color information for the wells. The glass for the camera ports needed a little sanding to fit. The main landing gear doors are molded with the strut, but the wheels feature separate tires for ease of painting. Finally, I prepped the fuel tanks and pylons. I enlarged the holes in the wings for a better fit. Decals provide markings for nine Thunderflashes: Turkish, Italian, Dutch, two French, Greek, two American, and, the one I chose, German. The register was off on my sheet — especially noticeable on the German flags — and the images were a little soft. Even over clear gloss, the decals didn’t want to stay put. There’s quite a bit of excess carrier film on each. I recommend trimming it, especially if the decal fits in a tight spot. Tanmodel did a great job on the RF-84 — only its second kit — with construction and fit on par with kits from established manufacturers. The camera-bay and decal issues aren’t difficult to overcome, and the finished model looks every bit Republic’s Cold Warrior. I can’t wait to see what Tanmodel does next. – Caleb Horn

Airfix Ju 87B-1 Stuka


f someone mentions dive-bomber in the context of World War II, more likely than not the image of the Junkers Ju 87 Stuka comes to mind. The word Stuka is short for Sturzkampfflugzeug, the German word for divebomber. This iconic aircraft will always be associated with the Luftwaffe’s blitzkrieg in Poland, France, and the Low Countries, the Battle of Britain, and the fierce tank battles on the Eastern Front. Airfix recently released an early version of the Stuka, and it’s a honey of a kit. If you have built one of Airfix’s newer releases, everything from the box art to the bluegray molded plastic, recessed detail, and instructions will look familiar. This kit was engineered with the modeler in mind, starting with the cockpit. Detail is outstanding: Airfix provides the side walls as two pieces with molded detail that will pop with careful painting. You glue the rest of the cockpit’s pieces onto the lower center wing; this assembly slides up into the fuselage to complete the cockpit and provide the foundation for the correct wing angle. The separate nose and engine assembly is next. The parts breakdown offers the possibility of later Stuka variants. Take your time and get a good fit with these nine interlocking pieces. The next modeler-friendly subassembly is the landing gear. The wheels have tabs on

them that fit into slots in the strut housings to set the correct angle for load-bearing bulged tires. Don’t want bulged tires? No problem: Just turn each tire over to the fully rounded section and glue the tab into the same slot. Also, it’s easy to install the external flaps and ailerons by putting their hinges into slots on the wings. Be aware, though, that the two mass balances on each aileron stand proud of the wing; don’t try to push them into the wings’ recesses. Throughout the build I applied little filler, just a smidge around the wing roots and lower-fuselage to center-wing joint. Airfix provides a single clear piece for the two overlapping parts of the opened canopy. Frames are molded for both the pilot’s sliding section and the fixed center portion in this one piece. Masking the frames is a little tricky, since the vertical interior frames are a different color (RLM 02) from the other frames. I eventually used strips of decals for these interior frames. There are two marking options, though both have the same camouflage scheme. I sprayed GSI Creos, Tamiya, and Vallejo acrylic paints to match suggested colors. Painting the splinter pattern isn’t difficult, but it requires much masking. After spraying a couple of coats of Tamiya clear, I was ready to apply the decals for the Legion Condor. The decals worked as advertised and responded well to

Kit: No. A03087 Scale: 1/72 Manufacturer: Airfix, Price: $13.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 109 parts, decals Pros: Excellent cockpit; clever flaps and ailerons; bulged tires Cons: Difficult to mask the optional open-canopy center-section framing

setting solution. Clear areas between the numerals on the fuselage exhibited some silvering, but that disappeared with more applications of Micro Sol and coats of gloss, then semigloss clear. The clear layers did, however, mute my weathering effects quite a bit. I highly recommend this kit. It’s trouble-free and suitable for any modeler from beginners on. It builds into a dimensionally accurate model and captures the rugged look of the Stuka. I enjoyed the 22 hours I spent on it and would purchase other variants if they became available. – Phil Pignataro



Tamiya AMX-13


he AMX-13 was designed as an air-deliverable tank with maximum firepower to handle the global conflicts facing France after World War II. In order to mount a 75mm gun on such a small chassis, the gun was fixed in the upper half of an oscillating turret. The gun was the first auto-loading gun mounted on a tank. The vehicle proved popular, with more than 7,700 produced. Until recently, if you wanted to model an AMX-13, the only options was an ancient Heller kit. Now comes Tamiya’s kit. Molded in tan plastic, the kit features excellent detail. The single-piece tracks are molded in flexible plastic. Only one piece of photo-etch is included, a grille for the hull intake. A half figure is provided for the commander’s hatch, but there are no clear parts for the headlight or the periscopes. Decals are provided for two vehicles in French markings. Besides the typical excellent Tamiya instruction booklet, a small pamphlet covering the history of the vehicle includes photos of the actual tank. Assembly starts with the hull and running gear. All of the running gear is held in place by vinyl keepers, so it is easy to leave

it off until after painting. When installing the upper hull plate (B17), I had a small gap where it met the front plate (B4). I filled the gap with a tiny piece of strip styrene, but that was the only filler I needed for the entire build. I added the rest of the details to the hull, leaving off only the headlight lenses, their brush guards, and the spare tire, so I didn’t have to mask any of that to paint the tank. The brush guards are a little too thick for scale; I thinned them with a knife’s tip. The turret is quick and easy to assemble. The main gun barrel is molded in one piece with a separate two-piece muzzle brake; no seams to worry about, just two minor mold lines to remove. Tamiya provides a multipiece plastic assembly for the canvas cover

between the upper and lower turret. If you want to be able to raise and lower the gun, you need to leave this off (there are photos of AMX-13s without the canvas). Pose the commander’s hatch open if you want to use the semi-figure included in the kit. I gave my model a coat of Tamiya olive green (XF-58), then dulled it with an application of olive drab (XF-62), concentrating on the centers of panels and parts. Decals were applied over a coat of Vallejo clear gloss. They settled easily with a touch of Micro Sol. After applying washes, I applied clear flat (Tamiya XF-86), then added tracks and running gear. While the tracks are easy to assemble and paint, they do lack the slight sag in the upper run seen in photos of the real vehicle.

Takom AMX-13/75


akom has taken the AMX line of light tanks by storm, offering three different kits, including this of the French vehicle in foreign service. It comes with posable hatches and two types of machine gun (Browning M1919 .30-caliber or FN MAG 7.62mm). The track sets are individual-link, and the rubber tires are separate from the rims. Clear parts are provided for the vision blocks. The decals provide markings for four vehicles: two for Israel, one for Lebanon, and one for Venezuela. The chassis build was straightforward without major issues, but the photo-etch for the screens did not leave enough frame for gluing. So I spread the super glue thinly, then painted the hull bottom and sides. For the running gear, I painted the roadwheel tires Tamiya German gray and put them on their rims. Then all the running gear was installed on the hull. With limited space under the fenders, I chose to add the tracks before installing the fenders to give me more space to work. I used the box art to figure out what the track run should be. The tracks were painted with Tamiya dark 58 FineScale Modeler September 2016

iron and dry-brushed with silver. When installing the fenders, I found the front part did not fit tight against the hull; that required some filling. It also caused a fit issue with the front bin (Part B13). However, the back bin fit fine. With fenders on, I was able to add hardware on the hull. I installed the headlight assemblies, but saved the headlight lenses for later for easier painting. For the turret, I followed the flow for Israeli modifications. In the instructions’ drawings, the lines to the holes that were to

be drilled and filled were confusing. With the AMX’s unique oscillating turret, assembly is different from traditional tanks. I built the top and bottom sections and painted them. The dust cover was painted Tamiya khaki and fitted to the turret’s bottom half. Fitting the top half on the dust cover and mounting pins was slow. The kit’s cannon design is old-school, with two pieces left and right. It was easy to clean up the barrel’s seam, though.

Kit: No. 35349 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Tamiya, Price: $56 Comments: Injection-molded, 248 parts (1 PE, 26 vinyl), decals Pros: One-piece tracks; molded canvas cover for the turret; PE grille Cons: No clear parts; brush guards look too heavy

Airfix Avro Shackleton MR2 I painted the tools and lights and added the headlight lenses and brush guards. The finished model matches published dimensions, and, aided by the excellent fit and engineering and single-color paint scheme, it took me only 14 hours to build my AMX-13. The kit would make an excellent choice for a beginning modeler. It’s great to see modern kits of these postwar vehicles. I wonder if Tamiya will release any of the other variants based on the AMX chassis. – John Plzak

Kit: No. 2036 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Takom, Price: $48.95 Comments: Injection-molded, 434 parts (33 PE, 6 vinyl), decals Pros: Easy assembly; crew; forms for track sag Cons: Fit issues with fenders, confusing instructions, old-school molding of cannon

I painted the vehicle with Testors Israeli sand and weathered with pastels. I applied decals provided for a Six-Day War tank. They fit well. It took me 35 hours to build the AMX. However, with its fit/construction issues, it’s best for experienced modelers. – Tom Foti


owzah! There’s a lot of model in this big red box. Parts are furnished for two Shackleton MR2 variants, including options for movable rudders, retracted or extended flaps, and bomb-bay doors. Closed landing gear doors and an extended radome are supplied for posing the aircraft in flight, but no stand is included. The kit provides a nice interior, including radar operator and crew stations — there’s even a map for the nav table — and two pilots. Sadly, most of this won’t be seen after the fuselage is assembled. But the cockpit looks appropriately busy when built up. Color callouts reference Humbrol paints. The four-color instructions and keyed parts made assembly easy, but time and patience are required because of the model’s size and myriad components. The horizontal and vertical tails feature mortise joints that make alignment a snap. I did have to file the interior to close the fuselage around it. The fuselage seams and the upper nacelle-to-wing joints required filling and sanding, and I had to trim the dorsal turret and its cannon’s breeches so the barrels didn’t splay outward. Those barrels and one LORAN antenna were damaged in the poly bag, and I was never able to repair or straighten them to my satisfaction. The four torpedoes are mini models, each needing seam sanding, painting, masking, and decals. The nicely detailed bomb bay benefits from a wash. I used Eduard masks (No. CX434) for the clear parts; they worked beautifully and left no residue behind.

Markings for an aircraft from No. 224 Squadron and one from No. 204 Squadron are given. I chose the former because I liked the dorsal turret and the twin 20mm cannons in the Boulton-Paul nose turret. The extensive decals feature full stencil data and a flat finish, and they conformed well. While I’m not a big fan of building a complete interior that can’t be seen, I can visualize a wired, fully-lit fuselage with glowing radar scopes. You just know some modeler already has that planned. Parts breakdown indicates future Shackleton variants may be forthcoming. As long as I’m dreaming, how cool would it be to see an Avro Lincoln kit; except for the fuselage, this kit’s got most of the parts for one. The fit issues were a bit perplexing, but not terminal. Airfix’s new Shackleton isn’t a difficult build, but it takes time and a lot of painting small parts. I spent 55 hours building mine, and I really liked the kit, challenges and all. – Walt Fink

Kit: No. A11004 Scale: 1/72 Manufacturer: Airfix, Price: $54.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 272 parts, decals Pros: Easy assembly; keyed parts; great instructions and decals Cons: Fuselage, upper turret, and wing-to-nacelle fit issues



HK Models Dornier Do 335A


hether or not it was the fastest piston-engine fighter of World War II, the Dornier 335 Arrow was certainly unconventional. Powered by two Daimler-Benz DB603A engines — one pulling and one pushing — the Arrow was developed to fill a number of roles, including single-seat heavy fighter, fighter-bomber, and two-seat night fighter and trainer. This release, the fighter-bomber, shares a lot of parts with the initial kit of the dedicated fighter. New leading-edge inserts and other parts differentiate it. Decals provide three Werk Number airframes, one of which includes an additional captured option in U.S. markings. A small photo-etch (PE) fret supplies seat belts and an air-intake grille. Castmetal weights tailored to fit the nose keep the long-legged plane on its wheels. The engines, weapons bay, and nose gun

Kit: No. HK01E08 Scale: 1/32 Manufacturer: HK Models, Price: $169.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 329 parts (2 metal, 5 PE) decals Pros: Great design; good fits; inclusion of nose weights Cons: Some errors in instructions

60 FineScale Modeler September 2016

compartment are detailed and the separate panels can be left open. This special edition includes two nicely sculpted resin figures, one seated and one looking up at the cockpit from the ground. Step 1 forces a decision about the pilot that’s not clear in the instructions. If you wish to crew the plane, delete the seat cushion (part M20) and PE seat belts. (The armrests molded to the seat should be lowered in this case as well, but that will require surgery.) The interior is assembled a section at a time with a floor and walls. Those subassemblies join to the next and so on. Fits are good — almost too good. While test-fitting the engine deck/bomb bay and cockpit/ nose-gear assemblies, I found myself literally in a bind. Posts on the engine deck (part M1) fit so tightly to the pins on the gear bay and wing spar that I couldn’t get them to seat properly. A little WD-40 smoothed the way. Interior detail pops when painted. There are holes in the bomb, and the instructions show pins in the bay, but don’t bother looking for them — the bomb is glued directly to the rack. The instructions incorrectly show the upper-deck machine gun tubes (parts C25 and C26) being attached to the guns before they’re mounted. They should be slid in from the front through the bulkhead once the guns are in place. The instrument panel decal should go on the rear panel face (part L25), not on the panel itself as shown in the instructions. I cheated and added a piece of thin clear plastic between the parts to simulate glass instead of adding drops of clear gloss. The engines include many details, but make sure you track which engine you are

building. Several parts are the same front to rear, but there are also differences, including fitting the other cast weight inside the forward engine. HK indicates holes to open on each engine to attach the correct accessories — make sure you open them up before you glue the halves together! Everything fits well, except for one pipe (part O14) that needed to be trimmed to fit the bulkhead. To align the interior subassemblies, I placed them into a fuselage half. Everything fit until I dry-fitted the upper deck; it would not clear the rear engine’s aft bulkhead. I’m pretty sure all of the parts are exactly where they should be as per the instructions, so I’m still scratching my head about the cause. I trimmed the bulkhead until the deck fit. The separate engine, gear, and weapon doors fit even when modified to be attached closed. The wings and tail were a breeze. Separate control surfaces fit without glue, and the leading-edge inserts needed just a smear of filler under the wing. The instructions omit the landing lights (parts N12), although they are shown in the drawings. I assembled the landing gear off the model for painting. Be careful attaching the nose wheel to the strut — it is handed because the strut is mounted at an angle. The decals responded well to setting solutions and laid nicely over clear gloss. Helpfully, HK supplied the fuselage crosses separated for use on the open panels. HK has created a wonderful, easy-tobuild kit. I was impressed with the fit (except for the mysterious rear bulkhead) and the detail is outstanding. I spent a little less than 60 hours on this kit and five more finishing the figures. – Chuck Davis

READER TIPS By Mark Savage

Digital calipers help in several ways.

Are you seeing jungle vines? We are!

Digital calipers aid accurate cuts

Let them dry, then stain or paint them and you’ll have the perfect addition to your next abandoned building. An extra benefit: The fruit makes a refreshing snack while modeling!

Digital calipers are extremely handy and inexpensive. Most people think of them as a way to get accurate measurements using the digital readout, but I’ve found them even more useful in capturing and transferring precise measurements using inside and outside measuring points. There’s also another often-overlooked feature — a precise depth gauge. This is the metal probe that sticks out of the end whenever the jaws are moved. I’ve found that after taking an inside or outside distance measure, I can easily transfer that measure to my NorthWest Shoreline Chopper by placing the depth-gauge point on the Chopper’s cutting razor and positioning a convenient stop to coincide exactly with the end of the blade. Fortunately, you can use the caliper as a stop because the ends have metal plates on both sides that hold the caliper prod on the Chopper’s surface. If you’re cutting thin stock, it could slip under the caliper due to these metal plates. The resulting cuts will be extremely accurate.

– Curt Epstein Palisades, N.Y.

The better to see them with As a backup for my kit instructions, in case I misplace or ruin the originals, I make an enlarged copy and keep it with the kit. Since my vision is gradually worsening due to age and diabetes, I enlarge all the steps by 40%. (Most photocopiers make this easy to accomplish.) It is a great help in seeing the instructions. – Dennis Cermak Fraser, Mich.

– Miles Marcovitch Louisville, Ky.

Oh my darlin’, oh my darlin’ ... Clementines, those tiny oranges that kids (and adults) eat by the boxful, are an inexhaustible supply of scale vines for jungle or woodland dioramas. Simply peel them and carefully remove the white veins from the outside and between the individual sections. HAVE A TIP OR TECHNIQUE TO SHARE? Send a brief description along with a photo to [email protected] or visit FineScale. com and click on “Contact Us.” Tips are paid for upon publication; if you live in the U.S., we’ll need your Social Security number to pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the text and images upon payment.

Photo trays are good for cleaning parts.

Another good cleaning system I usually clean my parts in the sink, but a friend was getting rid of a huge stack of old photography solution trays. Now I use one of these trays to clean my parts in the sink. Loose parts stay in the tray. Scrub all the parts with a mild soap and slightly warm water using an old toothbrush. Pour out the soapy solution using the tray’s handy spout. Rinse and repeat until all the soap is gone. Dry on paper towels. Simple! – William “Skip” Paetz Virginia Beach, Va.

Lining boxes with fiberfill is an easy way to protect models when moving a collection. Be sure to allow enough room so the models don’t touch.

Do you have enough fiber in your ... moving boxes? I have had to move my model collection twice in two years, and this method worked well for me. I gathered large boxes that would accommodate a number of models with adequate clearance between them, and packed the box with a layer of polyester fiberfill (such as that used to stuff pillows). It’s available at most craft stores. Each model was then nestled into the filling and the box sealed with enough headroom to clear masts and aerials. As long as the boxes are handled with care and kept upright (label the top), they ride beautifully. Out of about 30 models, I had to fix just three gear doors and one pitot tube. And the collection had been packed in those boxes for almost the entire two years! Note that once they are unpacked, you may have to remove a few stray clingy fibers from your models. – Ashley Messenger Mount Vernon, Ohio



Flow wash into details



How do I use washes and filters?


I am not a very experienced modeler. I was wondering how to make a wash or filter and how exactly to apply them? Do I use an airbrush or a regular paintbrush? – Jacob Miller Manchester, Mich.


Glad to answer your question, Jacob. I’ll admit there are some things we don’t pause to explain every time. A wash is a solution of mostly thinner and a little paint, usually a dark color. The wash will settle into recessed details (such as panel lines or an engine grate, for example) to give them greater depth and contrast, 1. How thin is the mix? Start

with 1 drop of paint to 10 drops of thinner and adjust from there. What you use for thinner depends on the paint you have already used. To avoid damaging the paint below, use acrylics over enamels; or, you can use artist’s oils or enamels over acrylics with mineral spirits, Mona Lisa, or Turpenoid (the latter two are my low-odor preferences) as thinner.

Is the jig up for rigging? Q I am constantly amazed at the craftsmanship that goes into many aircraft and ship models. But, in most scales, aircraft antennas and ship rigging would be invisible to the natural naked eye. What is your view on rigging or not rigging? – Jeffrey Barta Montclair, Va. A Jeffrey, yours is a fair question. True, the challenge in modeling antenna wire or a ship’s rigging (or that of a biplane) is scale, and it is a GOT A MODELING PROBLEM? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. E-mail [email protected], or visit and click on “Contact Us.” We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. We publish letters of general interest in the magazine; however, mail volume and space limitations prevent us from printing every question. Please include your name, town, state, and a daytime phone number.

62 FineScale Modeler September 2016

3 In either type of wash, make sure the paint is dissolved well. Some use flat black, but dark brown or burnt umber provides a more subtle contrast. Use a brush to flow the wash into details and let it settle. A cotton swab or clean brush will pick up excess. You can apply a wash to a flat finish, but it will flow more freely on a gloss finish. Some people give a flat finish a gloss overcoat before applying washes. I don’t; on a flat finish, I’m just more selective. This leads to what is sometimes called a pinwash (short for pinpoint wash), thin paint applied precisely to individual details (such as rivets

fine adjustment. Just a coat of paint can make an aerial look badly out of scale. However, all models make some concessions in scale. For example, if landing gear were truly to scale it could not support a model airplane posed on the ground. Grab handles on tanks would be finer than the photo-etched parts they are often replaced with. A ship’s rigging would be mere gossamer. Still, those models would look strange otherwise. So, we accept the limitations and settle for credible approximations — the finer the better, as far as that can go, until we have done the best we can do. Scale fidelity is a worthy goal, which is why people vacuum-form aircraft canopy replacements, scratchbuild landing gear from brass tubing, replace grab handles with fine wire, and use fine-gauge fishing line for rigging. But, while those are all improvements, they may yet fall short of true scale. Ultimately, it comes down to how the thing looks. And if it looks good to you, then it is!

Modeling the bounding main Q I remember a few years ago there was an article on how to model ocean bases using

or hinges) with a fine brush. Filters are mixed the same way as washes but differ in application. Instead of flowing into details, thinned paint is brushed on the surface a section at a time and allowed to dry there. This tints the underlying paint, adding depth and subtly altering the hue. Changing the color of the filter between panels works well on a monochromatic finish, such as olive drab, dunkelgelb, sand, or Soviet green. Some modelers use a variation referred to as “dot filters,” 2. Multicolored dots of paint are drawn across a surface with a wet brush and nearly removed, 3. This works best with slow-drying oil paints.

aluminum foil and acrylic gel. Do you know the article, and whether I could order the back issue? – Ben Schechtman Palm Springs, Calif. A I believe the article you recall was “Doin’ the wave” by Patrick Roach in the March 2004 FSM: acrylic gel and paint over tin foil. There have been several other articles about modeling water, too: • “Sculpting rough seas” by Chris Flodberg, April 2016; foam insulation, clear gloss acrylic medium, paper towel, and gesso. • “Easy and convincing water” by Tom Altobello, January 2014; acrylic gel medium on a wood base. • “East-to-model water” by Chris Ludwick, May 2011; Celluclay and acrylic paints. • “Having it both ways” by John Leyland, April 2005; gel medium over acrylic sheet. • “Modeling water” by Bob Santos, March 2004; Envirotex acrylic resin. You can order back issues by either visiting or calling us toll-free at 800-533-6644 (international customers call 813-910-3616). FSM


Sheperd Paine’s legacy continues in his final book, which features some of the best armor modelers in the world. Covering all aspects of armor building — including doing research, basic kit assembly, painting and decaling, weathering, creating battle damage, adding equipment, and posing and painting figures, as well as diorama planning — modelers of all skill levels will find tips and techniques to use on their latest builds.

Buy now from your local hobby shop! Shop at Sales tax where applicable.

#12805 • $24.99

Modeler’s Mart To advertise 1-888-558-1544 ext. 549

Specializing in hard-to-find & OOP kits.

We have over 8000 kits in stock from old Aurora to new releases. Please contact us for a FREE catalog. Please specify cars or military. Check with me before you sell.

We Buy Collections! /8BTIJOHUPO4USFFUt0XPTTP .*

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 t'BY [email protected]

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COLPAR’S HobbyTown USA PLANES • ARMOR • CARS • SHIPS • SCI-FI We carry a huge inventory of plastic model kits from around the world! Full Line of Detailing Accessories. Airline models, Decals, Books, Promos, Die Cast Collectibles, Historical & RPG Games & Miniatures, Airbrushes & parts. Large Paint and Tool inventory. Full line R/C department. We ship worldwide.

,&+,*$1 72<62/',(5&2 :RUOG̵V%HVW6HOHFWLRQRI̿ :HDWKHULQJ3DLQWV7RROV6XSSOLHV 5HIHUHQFH6FHQLF 'LRUDPD (YHU\WKLQJWRXVHWKHPRQ 6LQFH 9LVLWRXU5HWDLO6KRSLQ0HWUR'HWURLW ((OHYHQ0LOH5RDG 5R\DO2DN0, 3K COLPAR’S HobbyTown USA To order call: 1-800-876-0414 1915 S. Havana St. For information: 303-341-0414 Aurora, Co 80014





and 50,000 items in between!

from A-Model to Zvezda Cool Stuff


Great Prices!

his section is open to anyone who wants to sell or buy scale modeling merchandise. FSM reserves the right to edit undesirable copy or refuse listing. For FSM’s private records, please furnish: a telephone number and a street address. All Copy: Set in standard format. First several words only set in bold face. If possible, ads should be sent typewritten and categorized to ensure accuracy. Coming Events Rate: $35 per issue (55 word maximum). Ads will contain the following information about the event: state, city, sponsoring organization and name of event, meet, auction or show, dates, location, times, admission fee, name and/or telephone number and/or email of person to contact for information. Name, daytime telephone number and street address of the person providing the information is also required but need not be included in the ad. Unless otherwise requested, ads will be published in the issue month that the event occurs in. Additional months are available at the $35 per issue fee. Please specify issue date(s). Word Ad Rates: 1 insertion - $1.13 per word, 5 insertions - $1.08 per word, 10 insertions - 99¢ per word. $20 minimum per issue. Count all initials, single numbers, street number or name, city, state, zip, phone numbers each as one word. Payment must accompany the ad. To receive the discount you must order and prepay for all ads at one time. We accept Visa, Mastercard, American Express and Discover. Send Your Ads To: FineScale Modeler – Classiied Marketplace, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Phone toll-free: 1-888-558-1544, Ext. 815, or fax: 262-796-0126. E-mail: [email protected]

Closing Dates: Published 10 times a year. Oct. 2016 closes July 13, Nov. closes Aug. 15, Dec. closes Sept. 12.

COMING EVENTS AL, HUNTSVILLE: Huntsville Plastic Modelers’ Society 40th Annual Model Show. Jaycees Building, 2180 Airport Road. September 24, 2016. 8:00am-4:00pm. Free admission. Model Registration: $5.00 for the first 10, $1.00 each additional. Vendor tables: First 3 tables FREE, $25.00 each additional. Vendor Info: 256-693-0125, [email protected] General info: 256-270-0820 CANADA, AJAX, ONTARIO: Ajax 36 Model Contest. J. Clarke Richardson Collegiate, 1355 Harwood Ave. N. Saturday, October 29, 2016, 10:00am-4:00pm. Admission: $5.00, Model entry $2.00 to max $15.00 (no limit on models). Sponsored by IPMS Toronto, IPMS De Havilland & Peel Scale Modelers. Contact: Bernie Hengst: 705-878-1740 or [email protected] Visit:


Classified Marketplace

Find it with our easy-to-use search engine


Advertising Increases: • Visibility • Opportunity • Credibility To advertise, call 888-558-1544 ext. 549



IL, WHEATON: 68th Illinois Plastic Kit & Toy Show. DuPage County Fairgrounds, 2015 W. Manchester Road., Zip: 60187. September 25, 2016, 9:00am-3:00pm. Adults $5.00, children under 12 years $2.00. 150 tables available. Buy/sell/trade or just browse. Cars, trucks, airplanes, trains, military, fire, police, muscle cars, all scales. Relive your childhood memories. Past-Time Hobbies, Inc. 630-969-1847.

A BIG BUYER OF AIRCRAFT, Armor, Sci-Fi, Resin, Hybrid or Plastic kits. We buy collections whether they are small or large- Worldwide as well. Call Don Black toll free 1-866-462-7277. Don Black, 119 Bernhurst Road, New Bern, NC 28560. E-mail [email protected]

ND, FARGO: Plastic on the Prairie. Holiday Inn, 3803 13th Ave. South, Zip: 58103. September 17-18, 2016, 9:00am3:00pm. VENDORS WELCOME! This will be a NNL style event. All ages welcome. For more information contact Junior Berg- [email protected] NY, POUGHKEEPSIE: HVHMG 2016, Celebrating 30 years, Elks Club Lodge, Overocker Rd. October 22, 2016. Sponsored by IPMS Mid-Hudson. Registration 9:00am-noon. More information at: or contact John Gallagher at 845-462-4740 or [email protected] PA, CARLISLE: PENNCON 2016 IPMS Model Show and Contest. U.S. Army Heritage & Education Center, 950 Soldiers Dr. Saturday, September 17, 2016, 9:00am-4:30pm. Show Theme: AQUATICS. “Make & Take” for kids 15 and under. For more info go to: or contact Chet Mohn, 717-774-4803 E-mail: [email protected] TX, AUSTIN: ASMS Capitol Classic 2016. Presented by Austin Scale Modelers Society. Norris Conference Centers, 2525 West Anderson Lane. Saturday, September 24, 2016, 9:00am-5:30pm. Show Theme: “Failures and Defeats” Model contest, vendor tables, door prizes, seminars and Make & Take for kids. Visit: or contact Randy Bumgardner at [email protected]

FOR SALE BLUEJACKET SHIPCRAFTERS America’s oldest wooden model maker has produced the finest ship model kits since 1905. With over 75 ship model kits from museum quality to kits for the beginner, we bring maritime history alive with exquisitely detailed model ships from the early days of sail, to square rigged and clipper ships, to the warriors of WWII, and the workhorses of the sea. Visit us at to enter the world of wooden ship modeling. CANOPY MASKING AND MORE! WWW.EZMASKS. COM List $3.00. Chris Loney, 75 Golf Club Rd., Smiths Falls, ON, Canada K7A 4S5. 613-283-5206, [email protected] THOUSANDS OF MODEL KITS for sale. All types from Old Aurora to new releases. Send a 70¢ SASE to: Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington, Owosso, MI 48867. Specify Military List. Phone: 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: [email protected]

AIRCRAFT, ARMOR, SCI-FI, FIGURES, AUTO, ETC. Buying kit collections, large or small, worldwide. Top prices paid. Call Jim Banko 610-814-2784 or mail list to 122 Independence Ct., Bethlehem, PA 18020, fax 610-439-4141. E-mail: [email protected] CASH PAID FOR PLASTIC MODEL COLLECTIONS. Call Tracie in Michigan 248-814-8359. Fax: 248-814-0385. E-mail: [email protected] CUTTING EDGE MODELWORKS 1/144 Sputnik 1 & R7 Booster (Lift off Series). Resin Model Kit Product Number CELO44004 Boxed or Built. Offering $168. Contact Allen at [email protected] I WANT TO BUY YOUR UNBUILT MODEL KITS. Any size collection. Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington St. Owosso, MI 48867. 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: [email protected] MODEL CAR AND TRUCK KITS. Unbuilt or built. Any size collection. Good prices paid. Please contact: Fred Sterns, 48 Standish, Buffalo, NY 14216. Phone: 716-838-6797. Fax: 716-836-6057. E-mail: [email protected] SOMEONE WITH THE SKILL to cast a part copy of a 90mm model. I have a master which I would want back. I will pay a reasonable fee for the casting. Phone: 406-449-2154, Email: [email protected] Call or message me. My address if you want and can do this, Brian Cockhill, 232 Greenwood Dr., Helena, Montana 59601-0343 YOU WILL NEVER FIND TIME TO BUILD ALL THOSE MODELS. Unbuilt kits, diecast aircraft, military books. Milam Models, 519 DiLorenzo Dr., Naperville, IL 60565, Phone: 630-983-1407, [email protected]

MISCELLANEOUS 1ST AND ABSOLUTELY THE BEST MUSEUM-QUALITY MODELS. IPMS Nationals winner building aircraft and armor to your specification, including conversions and scratchbuilt. Call BC Models for quote and information at 913-385-9594 or visit

Subscribe to FineScale Modeler! Call 1-800-533-6644 or visit!

Local Hobby Shop Directory Local Hobby Shop Directory listings are available for the next ten issues for $275 (payable in advance) or at $37 per issue (billed to established accounts for a minimum of ten insertions). Ads will be set in standard listing typography. All insertions must be consecutive and may be invoiced if you have credit established with us. No mention of mail order business permitted. For information call 1-888-558-1544, ext. 815. Closing dates listed in Classifieds section.

ALASKA • Anchorage Alaska’s best hobby supplier since 1964. Two stories, 6,300sf, 1st floor all R/C, 2nd floor general hobbies, plastics, trains, slot cars, telescopes & more!


2803 Spenard Rd.


ARKANSAS • Jacksonville

Headquarters for scale hobbies. Models; N-HO-O trains; gaming; tools; paints, etc. Discounts & special orders. Open 10-6, closed Sundays and Wednesdays


1200 John Harden Dr.



Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem Visit us in person or online Secure online ordering


911 S. Victory Blvd.


CALIFORNIA • Canoga Park

Kits, plastic & wood, Slot cars & toys. Rockets, paint, glue and tools. Trains from Z to O. Mon 10-5; Tue-Fri 10-7; Sat 10-5; Closed Sun & Big Holidays.


7259 Canoga Avenue


CALIFORNIA • Garden Grove

Rewards program for 10% back on purchases. Plastic aircraft, armor, ships, cars, decals, books, paints, tools, miniatures war-games. Mon-Thur 11-8, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 10-midnight, Sun 11-7


12188 Brookhurst St.


CALIFORNIA • Hollister

Model planes, car, ships & figures. Model train scales: Z, N, HO, O & G. Paints, tools. R/C & parts, incl. service. Craft & educational kits, supplies, products. Clinics available. Tu-Sat 11 -6; Sun 12-4. [email protected]


201-C McCray St.



New Products, Old Kits & Great Service! Everything you need to build plastic models Armor, Aircraft, Ships, Cars, SciFi and more. M-F 10:30-6pm, Sat 10:30-5pm, Sun 12-5pm


830 E. Lincoln Ave.


CONNECTICUT • East Windsor

Old & rare kits, largest selection in military kits, rockets, & cars. Exit 45 off I-91. 10 minutes from Bradley Air Museum. or Visit us on Facebook.


144 North Road


CONNECTICUT • Manchester

Largest hobby shop in NE. Military, cars, trucks, plastic models, diecast cars, trucks. Planes, RC planes, cars, trucks, slot cars, rockets, Breyer, Detailing supplies, games! Mon-Wed 10-6 Th-Fri 10-9 Sat-Sun 10-6


71 Hilliard St.



Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train sets. Open Tues - Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5.


394 New Haven Ave., Unit 1


FLORIDA • Ft. Myers

Come visit our new store! Plastic modeling kits. Paint, tools, scenery, accessories, & scale model railroads. Mon - Sat 10:00am-6:00pm. Closed Sun.


12951 Metro Parkway


GEORGIA • Blue Ridge

Huge selection of model kits & accessories. Ships, Armor, Aircraft, Figures, Cars and more. Visit: for complete listing. Monday to Friday 10-5, Saturday 10-4


47 Dunbarton Farm Rd.


HAWAII • Kailua, Oahu

Wide selection of plastic model kits, paint, books, magazines and tools. Located on the beautiful windward side, a scenic 20 minute drive from Honolulu. Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-2


767 Kailua Road


MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston) Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, figure kits, games, etc. Shipping available. Info:


33 Exchange St.



Stop in ONCE! A customer for LIFE! We have 10,000+ models, tools, supplies, 23 paint lines, 50 model mags, 5,000+ books. Est. in 1973, open 7 days, Th & Fr 'til 8. Visit us @


Rt 20E Main, Post Rd. Plaza



6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-fi. Reference books & supplies. Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to Rt. 123E, behind Dunkin’ Donuts. www. E: [email protected]


250 E. Main St., Rt 123




Your source for plastic models, die cast and all supplies needed to finish your latest model. Mon-Sat 9:30-6, Sun 11-5.

Thousands of model kits from old Aurora to new releases. Mon 4pm-7pm, Tues - Fri 11:30am-5pm. Sat 11:30am-4:00pm E-mail: [email protected]


445 South “B” Street



Large inventory of models from the world over! Detailing accessories, research publications, games, trains, R/C, tools, and supplies. Easy access from D.I.A.


1915 S. Havana St.



New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more.



MICHIGAN • Traverse City

Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.


405 E. Putnam Avenue


MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit)

1400 E. 11 Mile Rd.


Ad Index We believe that our readers are as important as our advertisers. If you do not receive your merchandise or a reply from an advertiser within a reasonable period, please contact us. Provide details about what you ordered and the amount you paid. If no action is obtained after we forward your complaint to the advertiser, we will not accept further advertising from them. FineScale Modeler magazine, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53187. he Advertiser Index is provided as a service to FineScale Modeler magazine readers. he magazine is not responsible for omissions or for typographical errors in names or page numbers.


103 W. Michigan Avenue


NEVADA • Las Vegas While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories. Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5.


4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103








NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden) Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts, tools. Open 7 days


706 N. White Horse Pike


NEW YORK • Buffalo



Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies. Books and magazines.



NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum. Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits. Open 7 days.


1435 Lexington Ave.


OHIO • Columbus




11145 Turkey Dr.


HO & N, Lionel trains. Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies. Open 11am-6pm M-F, Sat. 10am-5pm


2522 Times Blvd.


Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes. Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7. Sat 10:30-6.


108 S. Lee Street


TEXAS • San Antonio

Scale modeling from beginner to expert. A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, figures, ships, & sci-fi. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10am-6pm.


1029 Donaldson Ave.


Minutes from Dulles Airport & New Dulles Air & Space Museum, Udvar-Hazy Center. PLASTIC! PLASTIC! PLASTIC! Kits for aircraft - armor - ships - cars Daily 12-8; Sun 12-5.


13892 Metrotech Dr.


Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models. Large selection of detail parts. Largest selection of plastic models in South Seattle!


12615 Renton Ave. South


CANADA–AB • Calgary

Specializing in R/C models and accessories, helicopters, planes, cars, trucks, boats, plastic, die-cast & model rockets. M T W F 9:30-6, Th 9:30-8 Sat. 9:30-5 [email protected]


3409A 26 Ave. SW


CANADA–ON • Ottawa (Vanier)

Great selection of model kits, accessories, detail parts, magazines, tools & paints.


One of Canada's leading model shops. Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories. Free parking. On Parle Francais.


206 Graceland Blvd.


Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint and aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor, ships, trains and sci-fi. Special orders welcome! Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 1-6 Web site:


119 S. Main St.

East Tennessee’s largest plastic model selection. 8,000 sq. ft. of hobbies & toys. Located in Knoxville’s premier shopping destination. Turkey Creek Area. Open 7 days a week.


NEW YORK • Middle Island

134 Middle Country Rd.


VIRGINIA • Chantilly

WNY’s largest selection of models!!! We specialize in models. New, old, rare and vintage. Tons of detail and weathering products, paint, tools and so much more! 2243 Seneca St.


106 W. Main Street

TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)

Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details! 590 Rt. 46

Large Selection New & Used Kits Military books, tools, paint, airbrushes Full line hobby shop open Tue - Thur 10-6, Fri 10-7, Sat 10-4

TEXAS • Houston

Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors #334 90 Washington St.

PENNSYLVANIA • Landisville (Lancaster)

TENNESSEE • Knoxville


OREGON • Beaverton

80 Montreal Rd.


CANADA–ON • Toronto Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & finishing products. Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections.


1880 Danforth Ave.


Complete full line hobby shop. Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon-Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5.

Run your Retail Directory ad in the next issue of


FineScale Modeler!

12024 SW Canyon Rd.


OREGON • Hillsboro

Let your imagination run wild! Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, model railroading Z to G and more... 210 East Front St.

Your single stop model building shop. Michigan’s largest selection of new and vintage kits in all genres plus everything needed to build them. Wed - Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5 Visit us on Facebook.



116 N. Washington Street

MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit

Full service hobby shop. Over 6,000 recently acquired models. All the supplies you need to build your model.

Call 888-558-1544, ext. 815 for more information.


345 E. Main St.


Acrylicos Vallejo _______________ 19

FineScale Modeler Email Newsletter _ 63

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Roll Models_________________ 9, 64

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Colpar’s Hobbytown USA _______ 64

MegaHobby.com_______________ 64

Squadron Mail Order ____________ 4

Dean’s Hobby Stop _____________ 64

Michigan Toy Soldier Co.________ 64

Tamiya America, Inc. ___________ 35

Dragon Models USA ___________ 67

Model Rectifier Corp.___________ 68 ________________ 64

Evergreen Scale Models __________ 9 _____________ 64

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Your stash rationale

We received dozens of photos of piles of kits, but Bob Elsbury’s panoramic view excelled at showing the size and scope of his collection.


n the March 2016 FineScale Modeler, we asked you to let us know the state of your model-kit stash: How many kits? How much space? How long would it be before it would all be built? And how do you justify keeping it or adding onto it? he answers were diverse yet, in a sense, universal. hough intergalactic travel is still but a dream, modelers have already mastered both space and time. here’s always room for one more kit — and time to build them all. Here are a few of the explanations that make perfect sense to us. I have around 10,000 unbuilt kits. How do you gather all of these kits? I am twice retired: I was a pilot in the Air Force until 1993, then I taught high school social studies until 2015. I was a modeler as a kid, but didn’t have much time in the Air Force to build. I kept buying kits I wanted because I knew if I waited until I had time to build them they would either be unavailable or would cost a lot more. In addition, it is easier to move unbuilt kits. I have built more kits in the eight Send us pictures of your model stash: You can upload your images and text at 66 FineScale Modeler September 2016

months since I retired than I had in the previous 40 years. Am I a collector? No way! I buy each kit with the intention of building it one day. – George Blair, San Antonio, Texas Sometimes I go out into the shop with a cup of cofee or a beer, sit on the padded milk crate stool, pull out a model, and visualize it in its completed form. It is comforting to know I have all (well, maybe most) of the model kits I need for the future. he greatest challenge is where to put the completed models. My model cabinet is full and overlowing into storage bins, not unlike a full-size museum with constantly changing exhibits. he Gandees Museum … I kinda like the sound of that. – Davis Gandees, Lutz, Fla. It just makes me happy to own the kits. I enjoy looking through the contents of the boxes and dreaming of what they might look like once built. No pressure, just pleasure. – Bob Rhodes, Tecumseh, Mich. My job sometimes requires me to be away from home for long periods. he last time I was away, my wonderful, patient wife, Michelle (who has no interest in models herself ), undertook to sort them by manufacturer, subject, and scale. She even took photos of her inished work and e-mailed

them to me. I enjoyed scrolling through the pictures, reminding myself of what I had, choosing which would be my next project when I got back, and planning which markings and paint schemes to use. It was a fun, comforting reminder of home. I think that’s what our stashes represent; something to look forward to, even if we never get to half the models in the pile! – Fred Jones, Kingston, Nova Scotia, Canada I have more than 800 aircraft, 200 cars and trucks, and about 30 ships and miscellaneous kits. About three quarters of my kits are numbered and cataloged, and I update the entries as kits are completed. I have a very understanding wife and expect to have all kits built before I am 369 years old. – James Daubert, Clinton Township, Mich. he stash has been growing ever since I was 16, some 40 years ago. It received a boost when I acquired my uncle’s stash a few years ago. I tell people I intend to build them all, but, like every other collector, I know that doesn’t matter. I’m not one to buy a kit as an investment and place it on a shelf to get dusty. I have to open the box and iddle with the bits, planning for what I would like to do with it, and when, until I eventually get to it. he fun is sitting at the bench working on the latest project while planning the next. – Bob Elsbury, Appleton, Wis. FSM

Give an Abrams an Upgrade Academy ’s 100% , newly tooled M1A 2 TUSK II let s you build any one of three upgraded versions, SEP V 2, TUSK I or TUSK II.

m1a2 tusk

m1a2 tusk ii

m1a2 sep v2 CROWS II

Academy’s newly tooled, 1/35 (13298) M1A2 Tusk II gives you the parts to build either an M1A2 SEP V2, Tusk I or Tusk II. The Abrams vulnerability to RPGs and IEDs during the Iraq occupation led to upgrades. These included Tank Urban Survival Kits (TUSK I, TUSK II) and Common Remotely Operated Weapons Station (CROWS II) on SEP V2. Academy has captured them all in this crisply molded, meticulously accurate kit. Features include: • Parts for building SEP V2, TUSK I or TUSK II along with three marking options • Photo-etched parts, including one for the netting on the rear stowage basket • Rear turret generator • Common Remotely Operated Weapons Station (CROWS II) • Flexible tracks • Clear parts for the bullet-proof glass, turret shield, periscope, front and rear light lenses • Spotlights for 12.7 mm machine guns • Spot-on machine gun turrets for all versions • Molded-in anti-skid coating • Carefully reproduced Abrams Reactive Armor Tiles (ARAT) for TUSK II • Block-shaped reactive armor for TUSK I … we could go on, the details are many, the attention to accuracy steadfast, Academy’s Passion for Precision has never been more intense.



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