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December 2014 • Vol. 32 • No. 10 Online Content Code: FSM1412 Enter this code at www.FineScale.com/code to gain access to exclusive web content.
AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING
Paint a “paper panzer” for realism Layers of color and weathering AARON SKINNER
Building a resin tank Hone your build skills with an intermediate-level MBT70 COOKIE SEWELL
8 NEW KITS
• Eduard Bf 109G-6
• Tamiya USS Saratoga • Dragon MBT70/KPz 70
Model a Cuban cold warrior Eight easy steps to improve a Sea Fury
• Zvezda Airbus A320
• HobbyBoss Renault R35
• Trumpeter Westland Whirlwind
Take 10 tips for a better build Zero plus details makes a model more JEAN-JACQUES LABROT
Build a Canadian Starfighter Superdetailing Italeri’s big F-104
• Revell WhiteKnightTwo and SpaceShipTwo • Riich Universal Carrier Mk.II
JEAN PAUL POISSEROUX
Seven tips for building plastic sailing ships Improve your next model ship today
Who, what, where, when, and why of your modeling What do you like to build, and why?
In Every Issue 6 8 12 14 30
Editor’s Page Scale Talk Spotlight New Products Reader Gallery
48 50 62 63 64
Questions & Answers Reader Tips Classified Marketplace Hobby Shop Directory Advertiser Index
On the Cover First-time FSM author Jean Paul Poisseroux grew up near near Royal Canadian Air Force Station Marville in France. His superdetailed F-104 recalls childhood days when Starﬁghters roared overhead.
Get more at www.FineScale.com! Visit our website! You can enjoy more modeling photos and feature articles, access additional modeling resources, get industry news, see previews of upcoming issues, or register to participate in our forum. And it’s free!
Subscribers: Click on “Register,” enter the customer number from your subscription label, and throughout your subscription you’ll have unlimited access to bonus features, more than 1,400 kit reviews, and a database of more than 14,000 products!
FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187. Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.
Guest Editorial By Aaron Skinner
More modeling therapy SOME PEOPLE run to relieve needed — and wanted — to get stress. Others meditate. For me, back to modeling. The projects I modeling is the best therapy I had underway sat where I had left know. Time at the workbench has them, but I couldn’t get enthused. I helped me deal with loneliness, wanted something I could make anxiety, and, most recently, grief. progress on quickly, I needed to My mother passed away this summer. I won’t bore you with the WITH EACH SNIP, SWISH, details; suffice to say she had been AND SQUEEZE, A SENSE OF CALM ROSE IN ME. ill for a long time, so it wasn’t a surprise. My sister, Siall, called to tell me Mum had taken a turn for glue parts together, to see a vehicle the worse a few days after the come to life. Looking around, I setIPMS/USA National Convention. tled upon two review kits in my pile The next few weeks were a blur — — Tamiya’s 1/35 scale Mark IV organizing the trip home to tank and Moebius’ titular ship from Australia, two weeks there (I had the original series of “Battlestar a week with Mum before her Galactica.” Both promised quick death for which I will be ever construction; unable to decide thankful), including the memorial between them, I started both. celebration, and several days digAs review models, they would ging out from under the work that be out of the box; no fussing about had piled up here, all the while details or rivet counting. struggling with jetlag. After four nights at the bench, I After almost four weeks away had both together and ready for from the workbench, I really paint. Four nights of focusing on
instructions, clipping parts, sanding nubs, and gluing. With each snip, swish, and squeeze, a sense of calm rose in me. Those four nights focused the connection I feel to Mum when I model, while softening the loss. Mum was instrumental in my becoming a modeler. She didn’t build herself — printmaking was her creative outlet — but her father did. She always encouraged me to build, bought kits and tools over the years, including my first airbrush, and nodded approvingly when presented with my early, awkward attempts replete with mismatched camouflage and sloppy decals. Bye, Mum. I’ll see you at the workbench. www.FineScale.com Want to learn more? For the latest news as well as modeling tips and techniques, visit our website at www.FineScale.com
Your Editorial Staff
Editor Matthew Usher editor @FineScale.com
Associate Editor Mark Hembree mhembree @FineScale.com
Associate Editor Tim Kidwell tkidwell @FineScale.com
Associate Editor Aaron Skinner askinner @FineScale.com
Editorial Associate Monica Freitag mfreitag @FineScale.com
Publisher Mark Savage msavage @Kalmbach.com
Contact Us Editorial: FineScale Modeler 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612 262-796-8776, weekdays 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. CT Fax: 262-796-1383 [email protected] Website: www.FineScale.com
6 FineScale Modeler December 2014
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FSM 12/01/2014 BW 1/3 V
ARA Press The Spaceship Enthusiasts’ One-Stop Data Shop! Editor Matthew W. Usher Associate Editor Mark Hembree Associate Editor Tim Kidwell Associate Editor Aaron Skinner Editorial Associate Monica Freitag Art Director Tom Ford Senior Graphic Designer Patti L. Keipe Illustrator Kellie Jaeger Photographers Jim Forbes, William Zuback Production Supervisor Helene Tsigistras Production Coordinator Cindy Barder Circulation Specialist Carly Witkowski Publisher Mark Savage
/RRN:KDW:H)RXQG Just like in the stories, while looking in a long-neglected corner of the basement, we found a box with a handful of brand new, never sold copies of:
5HWUR5RFNHWV by Peter Alway
Customer Sales and Service 800-533-6644 Advertising Sales 888-558-1544 Group Sales Manager Rick Albers, Ext. 652 Ad Sales Representative Jim Hagerty, Ext. 549 Ad Services Representative Cassie Gartman, Ext. 620 SELLING FINESCALE MODELER MAGAZINE OR PRODUCTS IN YOUR STORE
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Vice President, Editorial, Publisher Kevin P. Keefe Senior V.P., Sales & Marketing Daniel R. Lance Vice President, Consumer Marketing Nicole McGuire Advertising Director Scott Bong Corporate Art Director Maureen M. Schimmel Managing Art Director Michael Soliday Senior Group Circulation Manager Michael Barbee ADVISORY BOARD John Noack, Paul Boyer, Shep Paine, Bob Collignon, Cookie Sewell, Pat Covert, Rusty White, Pat Hawkey ©2014, Kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved. Title is registered as trademark. This publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations used in reviews. Postmaster: Periodicals postage paid at Waukesha, Wisconsin, and additional ofﬁces. Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: single copy $5.99; U.S.: 1 year (10 issues), $39.95; 2 years (20 issues), $74.95; 3 years (30 issues), $106.95. Canada: Add $8 postage per year. All other international subscriptions: Add $12 postage per year. Payable in U.S. funds, drawn on a U.S. bank. Canadian price includes GST (Canada Publication Mail Agreement #40010760, BN 12271 3209 RT). Expedited Delivery Service: Domestic First Class, add $20/yr.; Canadian air, add $20/yr.; International air, add $45/yr. Letters, new releases, and new-product information are accepted as gratis contributions to FineScale Modeler. Feature articles and scale drawings are paid for on acceptance. All other submissions are paid for upon publication, at which time FineScale Modeler obtains all reproduction rights unless otherwise agreed. Instructions for submitting features, photographs, and drawings for publication are available from the editorial associate or online at www.FineScale.com/contribute. Unsolicited material will be returned only if postage and envelope are provided. FineScale Modeler is not responsible for the safe return of unsolicited material. Printed in U.S.A.
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VISIT ROUND2MODELS.COM OR CONTACT A REPRESENTATIVE FOR INFORMATION! 4073 Meghan Beeler Ct South Bend, IN 46628 574.243.3000 Dodge and related logos, vehicle model names and trade dresses are trademarks of Chrysler Group LLC and used under license by Round2 LLC. © Chrysler Group LLC 2014. Ford Motor Company Trademarks and Trade Dress used under license to Round 2, LLC. General Motors Trademark notice used under license to Round 2, LLC. Buddy Baker™ is a trademark of Buddy Baker, licensed by CMG Worldwide. www.BuddyBaker.com. The Buddy Baker name, signature and silhouette are exclusive trademarks of Buddy Baker. PEPSI and the Pepsi Globe are trademarks of PepsiCo, Inc. Used under license. ©2014 PepsiCo, Inc. Other names and trademarks are the property of their respective owners. MPC is a registered trademark of Round 2, LLC. ©2014 Round 2, LLC, South Bend, IN 46628 USA. Product and packaging designed in the USA. Made in China. All rights reserved.
December 2014 www.FineScale.com 7
Scale Talk Your voice in FSM FSM Basics helps again
Raúl Corral’s April 2014 “Washes, drybrushing, and pencils” was very helpful for me. I build mainly 1/48 scale planes, and I am looking forward to trying his techniques on my next model. The straightforward steps and the products used with keyed photos to avoid confusion made those two pages most helpful. As a modeler who builds for fun, I look for simple tips to improve the appearance of my models. - Timothy Moran Lansing, Mich. Multilevel display bases
Great story by Steven Andreano in the May issue of FSM! I’m currently working on a ’49 Mercury dirt-track racer and will use his ideas for the base. One suggestion: Make the left end of the base — the bottom of the ditch — a half-inch wider and add a shallow stream of “muddy” Liquitex as water, maybe with some war junk floating in it. Also, what air-drying clay is he referring to? Thanks again for more proof that the simple ideas are still the best! - Jim Stevens Chattanooga, Tenn.
Hi Jim, thanks for your letter. There are several brands of air-drying (or air-hardening) clay available from art supply stores and via online, including Activa, Amaco, Crayola, and Sargent. Any of those should work. — Tim Kidwell, associate editor Not a Russian submachine gun
I just finished reading my October 2014 FineScale Modeler (multiple times). Once again, you have a great magazine! However, there is one slight mistake I would like to bring to light. In Mike McFadden’s “Drama in a shadow box,” I must point Let us know what you think! Comments, suggestions, corrections, and additional views on FSM articles are welcome. E-mail your thoughts to [email protected], or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contribute to FSM.” You can also mail typed or handwritten letters to the address on Page 6. Clearly mark “To the Editor” on the envelope. Please limit your comments to no more than 300 words and include your name and location.
8 FineScale Modeler December 2014
FSM an essential tool My latest project is the USS Hornet (CV-8) as she looked during the Tokyo raid. I had been struggling with trying to get the neutral gray and intermediate blue camouflage pattern enlarged enough to be transferred to the ship. I had even gone as far as attempting to draw it freehand, with no luck. Then I received the October 2014 FineScale Modeler. I felt a miracle was visited upon me as I read the article about hard-edged camouflage. There, at the bottom of Page 29, were the simple directions telling me how to calculate the percentages needed to enlarge the camo pattern from the instruction sheet. After doing the simple measurements and the division, I came up with 308 percent. So, I gave it a try, and it worked perfectly. I only made one slight alteration to the instructions in the article: Instead of placing the tape
out that the submachine gun held by the German soldier is not from Russia but is actually a German 9mm ERMA EMP-35. You can tell by the switch above the trigger guard, the stick magazine coming out of the left side of the receiver, and the front wooden hand grip. Most, if not all, of the Russian submachine guns of that period had their magazines coming out of the bottom of the receiver and didn’t have much of a wooden stock. Mr. McFadden’s article did start me thinking of building a shadow box depicting the waist gunner on a B-17 Flying Fortress. Keep up the good work! I always look forward to reading your next issue. - Don Darr Fort Worth, Texas Hard-edge camo masks
Regarding the article “Cutting tape masks for hard-edged camouflage” (October 2014), I use an almost identical technique, with one difference: Before I lay masking
on the paper enlargement, I taped the template to the workbench. Then I covered it with a piece of wax paper and taped that to the bench, too. The tape sticks well to the wax paper, was easy to cut, and peeled off the waxed paper with no residue. So far, the transfer has gone smoothly. I can honestly say that FineScale Modeler is one of the most essential tools for modelers. - Andrew Maffei Tehachapi, Calif.
tape on the enlarged pattern drawing, I place some clear packing tape over it. This allows me to easily peel off the masking tape without tearing the drawing. Also, it lets me cut the masks with scissors, which I find easier than using a hobby knife. - Damien Nott Aberfeldie, Victoria, Australia School of model building
In the September 2014 FSM Editor’s Page, Matthew Usher described what happened to bring me back to modeling: Having been away from the hobby for a number of years, I purchased a Monogram F-14 Tomcat that contained photoetched-metal parts. I’d never used photoetched-metal parts before, and they gave me pause. However, the final build was terrific. The shop that sold me the model hosted a contest. I entered the bird, and it took first place. One of the judges, eyepiece and all, told me the reason was the cockpit detail.
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December 2014 www.FineScale.com 9
Scale Talk The prize was a free model of my choosing. I picked an EA-6B Prowler, imagining what I might do with a cockpit with four seats. I entered it into a larger contest, where it took second. Now, I’m using old soda cans to practice my metalbending and -shaping skills. The school Matthew speaks of was inside me, waiting to come out. Both models now sit in a veterans museum. FSM is an inspiration to all who want to take a chance and just build, from beginners to those who have been building models for a long time. Thanks, and keep up the good work. - David Lucas Crossville, Tenn. A difference of Hueys
Thanks for including the marvelous UH-1B from Robert Pollak in the October 2014 Reader Gallery. It is gorgeous, although marred by one small, but glaring, error: The unit markings are for C Company, 227th Assault Helicopter Battalion (AHB), 1st Cavalry Division (Air). However, C Company was a lift company, authorized 20 UH-1Ds, and no
UH-1Bs. I bet the markings came with the kit, but they should have been the green diamond with a lightning bolt showing the B model belonging to D Company, the gun company of the 227th AHB. (I proudly spent 15 months with the Cav in ’Nam, helping maintain its Hueys.)
PRODUCTS & REVIEWS
Nitpicking aside, I eagerly look forward to each month’s edition of my favorite, most balanced, and continually excellent model magazine. Keep up the great work! - Lawrence E. Starbuck, U.S. Army (ret.) Colorado Springs, Colo.
Now at FineScale.com FineScale.com/Reviews
Workbench Reviews In addition to early access to reviews, subscribers get bonus online content.
Video issue previews FSM Editor Matthew Usher highlights what’s inside the current and past issues.
Weekly free review Check out this week’s free model kit review.
FineScale.com/HowTo Article archive Search our article collection to ﬁnd the answer to your modeling question. Tips database Subscribers can search our extensive database of reader-supplied tips.
FineScale.com/OnlineExtras Download a desktop wallpaper Download a desktop wallpaper of Airﬁx’s 1/72 scale English Electric Lightning F.2A reviewed by Walt Fink for the September 2014 issue.
FSM Basics Watch the new series of how-to videos hosted by Associate Editor Aaron Skinner as he explains the basics of construction, paint, glue, and more. New Product Rundown Associate editors Tim Kidwell and Aaron Skinner pick the hottest scalemodel hobby releases, open up the boxes, and show you why they rock.
SUBSCRIBE AT FINESCALE.COM AND GET IMMEDIATE ACCESS The FSM+ icon indicates subscriber-only content.
10 FineScale Modeler December 2014
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Spotlight Compiled by Aaron Skinner
Zvezda latest to kit the Panther tank Newly tooled model includes turret interior
ussian manufacturer Zvezda (www.zvezda.org.ru) continues to expand its range of World War II armor with a 1/35 scale Panther Ausf D (No. 3678). The Ausf D was the initial production version of the German medium tank, its run beginning in January 1943. (The first Ausf A rolled off the line in August 1943.) Their baptism of fire came at Kursk in July 1943. Molded in tan plastic, the parts show good surface detail, including crisp panel lines, well-defined bolts and rivets, and
12 FineScale Modeler December 2014
weld beads along plate edges. I like the breakdown of the hull: A single-piece lower section is topped by the fenders, then the upper hull, to form a sturdy box. There’s no engine, but the kit includes inserts for the fans and louvers visible through the intakes. The only thing missing is a set of photetched-metal screens for those intakes. Most of the hatches are separate, although most are shown being closed. Interior detail is limited to the turret, but there it is very complete, including rota-
tion and hatch controls, gunsights, pistol ports, the breeches of the main and machine guns, and the turret basket with seats. There are optional front fenders, tool racks, cupola bases, and stowage. The road-wheel arms are keyed for alignment; flexible link-and-length tracks wrap around the running gear. Clear plastic provides periscopes and glass for the commander’s cupola. A small decal sheet provides markings for two PzAbt 52 Panthers at Kursk.
Small-scale Akagi has lots of detail
asegawa’s (www.hasegawa-model.co. jp) new 1/700 scale Akagi (No. 227) is not a reissue of the company’s early waterline kit: It is a new tooling of the famous Japanese aircraft carrier that served as the flagship for the attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941. U.S. bombs damaged the ship at Midway, and the carrier was scuttled on June 5, 1942. This kit represents the ship after the 1935-38 refit that replaced its three flight decks with a single, longer one. Hasegawa released a kit of that version in 2008. Molded in gray plastic, the parts show the kind of fine molding that characterizes Hasegawa’s recent offerings. The complex hull and hangar are molded in halves and include thin decks and supports as well as tiny portholes. The single-piece deck has molded planks and elevators, but no provision to pose the latter down (as on the earlier full-
deck kit). There is nicely molded framing under the front and rear deck sections. Fine details, such as the guns, ship’s boats, antennas, and masts, all look good given the tiny scale. Cranes and supports are molded solid, but they feature welldefined relief detail. A single sprue provides 16 aircraft: five Mitsubishi A6M2b Zeros, four Aichi D3A1 “Val” dive-bombers, four Nakajima B5N2 “Kate” torpedo bombers, and three unused aircraft. A comprehensive decal sheet includes national insignia, tail codes, ID stripes, and even wing walks for the tiny aircraft. The sheet also provides all of the deck markings displayed by the ship on December 7, 1941. Additional markings are provided for the Battle of Midway. Hasegawa's Akagi costs $42.99. A selfadhesive wooden deck (No. 7152) is available separately from Hasegawa for $59.99.
Tarangus brings Safir to ground
s we eagerly await the forthcoming 1/48 scale Saab Viggen, Tarangus (www.tarangus.se) has given us a 1/48 scale Safir (No. TA4804), a Saab trainer and liasion aircraft designed in 1946. It served in the air forces of Sweden, Norway, Finland, Austria, Japan, Ethiopia, and Tunisia. Typical of short-run plastic kits, the smooth medium gray parts show decent engraved panel lines and a little flash. The cockpit has a floor with throttle quadrant, seats — three for the 91B, four for the C/D — controls, instruments, and bulkheads. Up front, the Lycoming engine is represented by molded cylinders that will be just visible through the small cowl opening. There are some optional parts for the different versions and nations. Color callouts throughout the instructions help painting, and well-printed decals give markings for a yellow Swedish Safir, and natural-metal Ethiopian aircraft, and a gray and bright orange Finnish trainer. Tarangus’ Safir costs $49.
Focus on the Spad
Help with Hercs
Boeing’s big Strats
fter World War II, airlines and air forces wanted bigger and better transports — and they didn’t get much bigger or more glamorous than Boeing’s Stratocruiser. Bill Yeane details the history of the aircraft in The 377 Stratocruiser & KC-97 Stratofreighter — Boeing’s Great Post War Transports (Crécy, ISBN 97808597917-9-3, $39.95). In 208 pages, the book covers the development of military and commercial variants with hundreds of photos, many in color, as well as detailed text and a host of appendices detailing production numbers, specifications, and illustrations.
ouglas’ Skyraider is a favorite aircraft of many modelers, with kits in 1/72, 1/48, and 1/32 scale showing up at every contest FSM covers. If you plan to build one, take a look at Steve Ginter’s Naval Fighter No. 98: Douglas AD/A-1 Skyraider Part One (Ginter, ISBN 9780-9892583-5-7, $52.95). This volume covers the plane’s development and testing, as well as detailing training squadrons, hacks, and Marine Corps use. The 257page, softcover book is filled with detail photos and illustrations that should be useful for detailing scale Spads.
he Hercules has been carrying cargo across the globe since the mid1950s, and the basic airframe has been modified in scores of ways. Jay Sherlock decodes the changes through the E variants in Modelers’ Guide to the Hercules — Part I: YC-130 to EC-130E (Aero Research, ISBN 978-09851154-2-5, $26.95). Like the others in this series, this book takes a simple, no-nonsense approach to describe the differences between the variants with illustrations and text, explaining which kits need to be modified and how to model that version.
New Products Compiled by Monica Freitag
$99.99. JBD catapult, T-45 and MD-3 fire engine and mobile electric power plant combo.
1/72 SCALE KITS
1/32 SCALE KITS
Boston Mk.IIIA “Over D-Day Beaches”
from Special Hobby, No. SH72287, $42. T-33A T-Bird Over Europe from Special
Saab 91 Safir B/C/D from Tarangus AB,
Hobby, No. SH32050, $69.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.
No. TA4804. $49.
1/48 DETAIL SETS 1/32 DETAIL SETS
AH-1G Cobra Over the USA and Europe
from Special Hobby, No. SH72278, $25. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. Blohm & Voss BV 141 landing gear (for
HobbyBoss) from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 48267, $16.95. IAR-81C landing gear (for Azur Frrom) from
Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 32087, $18.95.
BAC Jet Provost F.5/167 Strikemaster landing gear (for Fly) from Scale Aircraft
Conversions, No. 48268, $13.95. F9F/F-9 Cougar landing gear (for Kitty
1/48 SCALE KITS
Hawk) from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 48269, $16.95.
1/48 DECAL SETS
Vought F4U-1A Corsair from Revell Germany, No. 03983, $11.95. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.
Seafire Mk.III D-Day Fleet Eyes from Special
Hobby, No. SH48128, $31.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. T-Birds with Talons (for Wolfpack T-38) from Vagabond Decals, No. 48-006, $20. USAF Thunderbirds T-38A from 1974 - 1982 plus training aircraft and 1984 narrator’s jet. Su-35S Flanker Russian Air Force multi-role fighter from Hasegawa, No. 01574, $55.
Nimitz deck from Kinetic, No. K48057,
14 FineScale Modeler December 2014
1/72 DETAIL SETS
Manufacturer/Distributor Directory Aero Research Co. www.AeroResearchCDs.com American Racing Miniatures AmericanRacingMiniatures.com • Etzel's Speed Classics
Hawker Hurricane landing gear (for Airfix) (2 sets) from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 72093, $13.95.
Blenheim landing gear (for Airfix) from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 72094, $17.95.
Blue Magic Paint Stripper 608-843-9172 www.bluemagicpaintstripper.com Dragon Models USA Inc. 626-968-0322 www.dragonmodelsusa.com • Aoshima • Bronco • Cyber-hobby • Dragon • Fine Molds • Fujimi • G.W.H. • Master Box • Platz • Riich • Showcase Models Australia • Zvezda • Concord • Firefly Books • Nuts & Bolts Books Eduard www.eduard.com
Fox-2 Flightgear LLC 757-560-1644 fox2flightgear.com
1/35 SCALE KITS Great Planes Model Distributors www.greatplanes.com Gwylan Models www.gwylanmodels.co.uk Hasegawa www.hasegawausa.com
M6A1 heavy tank from Dragon, No. 6789,
$69.95. Black Label, Smart Kit.
Merit International 626-912-2212 www.merit-intl.com • Merit • AFV Club • Kinetic
Models by Tony/Custom Squads 908-754-8947 www.customsquads.com MPM www.mpm.cz Pacific Coast Models, Inc. 707-538-4850 www.pacmodels.com • HK Models • Takom • Pacific Coast • Amusing Hobby • Asuka • Ebbro • Kitty Hawk • Panda • Xactscale ParaGrafix 508-431-9800 www.ParaGrafix.biz Plus Model 38-7220111 www.plusmodel.cz Revell 847-758-3200 www.revell.com • Monogram • Renwal • Revell
Specialty Press 651-277-1400 www.specialtypress.com • Ginter • Crecy • Hikoki • Zenith • Classic Squadron Products 877-414-0434 www.squadron.com • Encore Models • HobbyBoss • ICM • Meng • Roden • Super Scale International • Sword • True Details • Trumpeter Stevens International 856-435-1555 www.stevenshobby.com • AK Interactive • Freedom Model Kits • Mirror Models • Noys Miniatures • Trumpeter Stoppel Hobby www.stoppel-decals.dk Tamiya America Inc. 949-362-2240 www.tamiyausa.com
Revell Germany www.revell.de Round 2 574-243-3000 www.round2corp.com • AMT • MPC • Polar Lights • Lindberg • Hawk Scale Aircraft Conversions 214-477-7163 scaleaircraftconversions.com
Tarangus AB www.tarangus.com Vagabond Decals www.store.vagabonddecals.com CORRECTION: In our November 2014 issue we incorrectly listed the book Tiran in Lebanese Wars, by Samer Kasis as available from MIG Productions. The book is available from AMMO of Mig Jimenez, www.migjimenez. com
A description of our new-product announcement and review policies is available from Product News Coordinator, FSM, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187, 262-796-8776, fax 262-796-1383, or e-mail at [email protected] FineScale Modeler is not responsible for content of external sites linked through our site. Visit our website at www.FineScale.com. PzKpfw 35(t) from Bronco Models, No. CB35065, $54.99.
PzKpfw V Ausf D Panther from Zvezda, No. 3678, $40.95. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.
German military bicycle, WWII era from
Evgeny Kocheshkov Russian Navy Zubrclass LCAC from Gwylan Models, $42.65.
Master Box Ltd., No. MB35165, $15.99.
1/2000 SCALE KITS 1/35 DETAIL SETS PET bottles No. 446, $17; Boards “Achtung minen” No. 443, $15.80; Acid containers No. 430, $22.70; US blood bank marmite
No. 445, $20.60. Resin. All from Plus Model.
1/48 SCALE KITS USS New Jersey 1945 from Aoshima,
No. AOS-009338, $4.99.
Mark IV “Female” WWI heavy battle tank
from Takom, No. 2009, $57.95.
Kfz 69 German 6x4 towing truck with 3.7cm Pak from Tamiya, No. 32580, $34.
USS Lexington 1942 from Aoshima,
No. AOS-009369, $4.99.
1/48 DETAIL SETS Boards “Achtung minen” from Plus Model, Mark IV “Male” WWI heavy battle tank
No. 4019, $15.80.
from Takom, No. 2008, $57.95. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.
1/100 SCALE KITS British armored scout car “Dingo” Mk I
from Zvezda, No. 6229, $4.50
USS Enterprise from Aoshima, No. AOS-009383, $4.99.
1/700 SCALE KITS
Toyota Model AB Phaeton from Tamiya, No.
35338, $43. Military Miniature Series. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.
www.FineScale.com FineScale Modeler magazine receives new products from a variety of manufacturers on a daily basis and we are now able to share all of them with you through our interactive exclusive FSM product database. Click on the Product News link at www.FineScale.com.
Aircraft carrier Akagi from Hasegawa, No. 227, Water Line Series. $42.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.
USS Missouri 1945 from Aoshima, No. AOS-009345, $4.99.
MILITARY FIGURES 1/35 SCALE KITS US and German paratroopers from Master
Box Ltd., No. MB35157, $16.99. 16 FineScale Modeler December 2014
“Here’s a Snickers, help yourself, please!”
from Master Box Ltd., No. MB35159, $17.99.
Frau Müller (woman and woman’s bicycle) Europe WWII era from Master Box Ltd.,
1/24 SCALE KITS
No. MB35166, $19.99.
1/48 SCALE KITS UH-1 Huey crew
from Plus Model, No. AL4048, $16.10. Aero Line. Tom Daniel’s Cherry Bomb from Monogram,
No. 85-4191, $18.95.
Lamborghini Murciélago R-SV 2010 from
Aoshima, No. 007105, $67.99.
1/72 SCALE KITS Datsun off-road pickup from Revell,
No. 85-4321, $19.95.
Lamborghini Murciélago LP670-4 SV from
Aoshima, No. 007082, $64.99.
Soviet Sniper Team from Zvezda, No. 6193,
Nissan Skyline 2000 GT-R Street-Custom
from Tamiya, No. 24335, $64.
McLaren F1 GTR 1997 from Aoshima,
No. 007495, $69.99.
1/1000 SCALE DETAIL SETS USS Relaint for
Polar Lights from ParaGrafix, No. PGX187, $21.95. Street Fighter from Monogram, No. 85-4262,
$19.95. Super sanitary Z/28 powered.
Lamborghini Murciélago R-SV 2010 GTI Spa #25 from Aoshima, No. 007174, $69.99.
www.FineScale.com featuring reviews, product information, photo galleries, and more!
Police light bars No. WE-4U, $8.50; Police light bars No. FS-1A, $8; Police light bars LaFerrari from Revell, No. 85-4332, $20.95. Batmobile from Polar Lights, No. POL920/12,
1/25 SCALE KITS
$38.95. Includes resin figures of Batman and Robin.
No. ML-1, $8. Resin based, chrome finished bases from Models by Tony/Custom Squads. Brickyard Base from Etzel’s Speed Classics, No. 25003, $20. Board track base from Etzel’s Speed Classics, No. 25002, $20.
Police car wheels for Ford Crown Victoria and 1957 Chevy convertible Street Burner from
Revell, No. 85-4270, $19.95.
1940 Ford Fire Chief from MPC,
Chevy Caprice/Impala from Models by Tony/ Custom Squads, No. CFW#4, $6.50. Resin based, chrome finished.
No. MPC815-12, $23.95. Molded in three colors. Snap together.
Don Garlits’ Wynnscharger from MPC,
No. MPC810/12, $23.99. 1970 Ford Torino GT 2 n’ 1 Street Burner
Late ‘50’s Hallbrand mags with speedway tires from Etzel’s Speed Classics, $16. Etzel’s
from Revell, No. 85-4099, $20.95.
Speed Classics. Standing driver figure from Etzel’s
Speed Classics, No. ESCA9, $20.
“The Dukes of Hazzard” General Lee from
MPC, No. MPC817/12, $19.99. 1967 Camaro SS 2’n 1 from Revell,
No. 85-4936, $21.95.
www.FineScale.com Subscribers have exclusive access to model kit photos not published in the magazine! Simply go to FineScale.com/Reviews.
18 FineScale Modeler December 2014
1/25 DETAIL SETS Late ‘50’s Hallbrand mags with dirt track tires from Etzel’s Speed Classics, $16. Etzel’s
1/25 DECAL SETS
Modeler’s Guide to the Hercules Part 1, YC-130 to EC-130E, $26.95,
by Jay Sherlock, softcover, 140 pages, 64 color and black-andwhite photos, 48 drawings, ISBN: 978-0-9851154-25. From Aero Research Co.
Douglas AD/A-1 Skyraider, $52.95,
Packard Cable from Etzel’s Speed Classics,
No. ESCD-3, $8. 1/24 or 1/25.
by Steve Ginter, softcover, 256 pages, over 641 black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 978-0-9892583-57. From Ginter Books.
Republic F-84E & G Thunderjet in Royal Danish Air Force service 1951-1961, $69,
1/43 DECAL SETS Miller 91 rear drive from Etzel’s Speed Classics, No. ESCD-4, $5.
1/35 SCALE KITS
Military Aircraft Insignia of the World Volume 1 A-K, $22.95, by
John Cochrane & Stuart Elliott, softcover, 142 pages, over 250 color photos, ISBN: 978-09554268-7-2. From Flight Recorder Publications. German civilian car from Takom, No. 2009,
$29.95. From Takom.
MISCELL ANEOUS 1/2 SCALE
by Ole Rossel, hardcover, 216 pages, 480 black-and-white photos, color renderings, ISBN: 978-8791327-01-8. From Stoppel Hobby.
Wrecks & Relics 24th Edition (Britain’s aviation heritage), $36.95,
Civil Collection No. 3 from Aero
Research, No. 5006, $12.95.
by Ken Ellis, hardcover, 368 pages, over 200 color photos, ISBN: 978-085979-177-9. From Crecy Publishing.
PAINTS AND TOOL S The 377 Stratocruiser & KC-97 Stratofreighter,
Mini flight helmets from Fox-2 Flightgear LLC,
$39.95. Authentic replica mini flight helmet featuring durable plastic shell with brilliant clear coat finish, authentic squadron markings in glossy waterslide decals, visor housing featuring retractable visor with locking knob, single integrated rubber padded interior with edge molding and detailed rubber chin strap.
Blue Magic Paint Stripper, from Blue
Magic Paint Stripper, $9.99, 32 oz. quart $19.99, 128 oz. gallon $59.99, $5.95 for shipping and handling.
$39.95, by Ken Ellis, hardcover, 208 pages, over 300 color photos, ISBN: 978-0-85979-1793. From Crecy Publishing.
Collecting Vintage Plastic Model Airplane Kits, $24.95, by Craig Kodera, softcover, 144
pages, over 434 color and black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-58007-223-6. From Specialty Press.
Paint a “paper panzer” Field a Kugelblitz with layers of color and weathering • BY AARON SKINNER
rrin Hoffman enjoys painting and weathering more than constructing a model. His 1/35 scale Dragon Leichter Flakpanzer IV shows that commitment. Built straight from the box — Errin says he is fascinated with late-war armor and paper panzers (German armor designs that were never realized) — the Kugelblitz provided the opportunity to layer paint and weathering effects. After construction, he primed the model with Tamiya buff (XF-57), then pre-shaded with NATO black (XF-67) along panel lines and in recesses. “I prefer to use Tamiya paint for airbrushing,” Errin says. “I thin the paint with 70 percent (isopropyl) alcohol — ratio 4 parts paint to 1 part alcohol — and spray at approximately 25 psi.” Having experimented with several airbrush brands, he settled on Iwata for consistent results, sturdy construction, and easy cleaning. “I use an Iwata Revolution CR for painting large areas, and a High Line HP-CH for camouflage patterns and detail work,” he says. Power comes from a small air compressor purchased at Home Depot 10 years ago. Inspired by a photo of another modeler’s Kugelblitz, Errin airbrushed Tamiya field gray (XF-65) as a base coat. “I wish I knew the name of the modeler to give credit where it is due,” he says. He taped off the splinter camouflage, then sprayed a mix of Tamiya yellow green (XF-4) and yellow (XF-3). Light-
ened shades of the base colors highlighted panel centers. Using color modulation, Errin sprayed lighter shades high on the vehicle and darker shades low. Vallejo acrylic pinwashes emphasized engraved details. Errin created chips and scratches in the paint by painting fine dots and lines of Vallejo German black/brown camouflage (No. 70-822) along edges and surfaces. AK Interactive products provided rain streaks on the turret and hull sides. Errin applied road grime and dust to the Kugelblitz by airbrushing thin Tamiya buff over the lower hull, then built it up with AK Interactive’s enamel Dust Effects (AK015) and Fresh Mud (AK016). Grease and oil stains are also courtesy of AK Interactive products. “Small details can greatly enhance the look and realism of a model,” says Errin. “This is my final step, and one of the most fun.” On the Kugelblitz, Errin installed a field-applied armor plate to the front and chained a weathered unditching beam to the back. He added stencils to the armor plate, but says they’re probably grammatically incorrect, despite three years of German in college. “The Kugelblitz was a fun project that took approximately seven months to complete," he says. “It was relatively easy to construct, and the late-war experimental nature of the vehicle allowed for artistic liberties in the camouflage pattern.” FSM
20 FineScale Modeler December 2014
Field-fit armor: The plate is a piece of plastic card painted with Vallejo rust oversprayed with Vallejo orange. Rust-colored pigments from Mig Productions finished it.
Chipping: Using a fine brush, Errin dabbed a dark brown color along edges and corners to replicate paint chipped off due to wear and weather.
Stains: Tanks are covered with fluids — oil, fuel, water, and grease — that stain the paint. Enamels from AK Interactive proved the perfect tool for the job.
www.FineScale.com To see more of Errin’s pretty paper panzer, visit www.FineScale.com/OnlineExtras
Color modulation: To give the impression of real-world lighting, Errin painted the upper portions and raised details with lighter shades of the base colors. He sprayed darker tints under overhangs and low down.
ING & SH
FIN Post-shading: Spraying a lighter shade of base colors inside panels helps break up stark colors and adds drama to the finish.
Streaking: Errin applied AK Interactive’s streaking enamels to the vertical and sloped surfaces. A fine brush pulled the thin paint down to produce rain-streaked dirt and grime.
Unditching beam: Errin cut a piece of balsa to length and colored it with pastel chalk. A dark wash accented the wood’s natural grain.
Meet Errin Hoffman
Dust: A base coat of thin Tamiya buff, airbrushed over the hull, laid the foundation for AK Interactive mud and dust effects. Built on the PzKpfw IV chassis, the Kugelblitz mounted a pair of 3cm MK103 antiaircraft guns in a low turret. Still in development, only two were completed when the war ended, and it’s unknown if either saw combat. That didn’t keep Errin from building Dragon’s 1/35 scale Kugelblitz as a battle-hardened veteran.
WORKING WITH HIS best friend, Errin built his first model when he was 9, Revell’s USS George Washington. “It was unpainted, glue marks were everywhere, and the decals were both crooked and heavily silvered,” he says. But he was hooked. Errin’s modeling interests include World War II German and Russian armor, and military aircraft from WWII to today. He completes two or three models a year, tries to attend at least one contest, and attributes his finishing skills to Adam Wilder and Mig Jimenez. A Notre Dame grad and physician, Errin lives in Allentown, Penn., with his wife and four children.
The quality of the castings in Commander Models’ MBT70 is good, but Cookie needed references and an ample supply of styrene to finish it as the fifth prototype.
RESIN TANK Hone your skills with an intermediate-level MBT70 BY COOKIE SEWELL
n late 2012, Commander Models released a resin kit of the MBT70 (No. 1-058), the first model of this unique vehicle since a 1/48 scale Aurora offering in the late 1960s. I moved the MBT70 to the head of my to-do list as soon as I got my hands on one. I describe Commander’s recent models as craftsman kits. They are basically sound and complete resin kits, but require separately purchased tracks as well as a number of items from a spares box. These limited-run kits demand modeling skills — especially with resin — and references for the original vehicle. Commander’s MBT70 is typical: The 22 FineScale Modeler
company provides the major parts, but many small bits are absent. It includes some nice touches, such as a suspension height gauge to set the ride height, and a jig to bend the turret basket. The hatches are closed and the 20mm cannon is shown stowed. The latter is a bit of a shame, because it was one of the unique features of the tank. My kit came without tracks,
but you can also buy it with a set of AFV Club M1A1 & M1A2 tracks (No. AF35012).
Part preparation Getting the most out of an intermediatelevel resin kit requires time and forethought. Many short-run kits come with only basic assembly instructions. The MBT70 is no exception. The directions mostly account for the 125 parts provided in the kit with little hint of how to prepare or assemble them. You need a good set of plans for the vehicle; I used R.P. Hunnicutt’s second book on the Abrams for this project.
After grinding away pour stubs, Cookie assembled the seven major parts with super glue. Clamps and accelerator fixed a warp in the hull.
Attaching the road-wheel arms without the wheels meant Cookie had to design a replacement height gauge to establish the correct angles.
Lowered return roller
Lowered drive-sprocket axle
Repositioned idler arm
Cookie moved the idler mount forward, then discovered it should have gone above the molded hole. Fortunately, the idler hides the flub.
Resin kits don’t come on sprues, but rather as separately cast parts. Small parts are often cast together on a single block. The MBT70 features the standard breakdown seen in armor kits: hull top, bottom, and rear plate; and turret top and bottom. Large pour blocks — resin overages that ensure complete casting — mark the bottom of the hull. I hate these. A talk with a belt sander dealt with them in short order. I did this outside, because it makes a heck of a mess! To counteract a slight warp in the hull, I joined the rear half with thick super glue and held it together with a trigger-style clamp. Then, I repeated the process up front, applied accelerant, and waited five minutes before removing the clamps. I finished the hull with the rear plate. The hydraulic suspension units, cast in two strips, were added once the hull was assembled. The turret halves went together with only minor gaps that needed filling, 1.
Suspension and tracks The suspension height gauge is designed for use with the wheels on the model sitting on the tracks. I didn’t want to do that
A similar problem existed with the drivers and return rollers. Cookie moved them down the hull to give the tracks room under the fenders.
5 Installing part of the suspension allowed Cookie to test-fit the AFV Club tracks. The swoop up in the front is supposed to be there, because the tank had an adjustable suspension.
just yet, so I made a new gauge to set the height with just the road-wheel arms. To check alignment, I set the hull on a flat surface to ensure all 12 arms touched the ground. I added a turret race with .015" (.375mm) styrene to smooth out the turret’s traverse and prevent it from rubbing on the autoloader cover on the rear deck, 2. I used AFV Club’s M1A1 tracks as recommended in the directions. To be 100
percent accurate, they should have forked guide horns rather than the single blade. Fixing it would be a nightmare and require trashing a set of M48/M60 type tracks, so I chose not to replace them. I assembled a short run for test purposes and discovered they did not fit over the suspension elements. So, I modified the idler mounts, return roller, and driver mounts. Referring to photos of Prototype No. 5 at the U.S. Army’s Aberdeen Proving December 2014
Styrene-rod headlight guards
Leaving a sprue stub on one or two connectors makes for easier handling when test-fitting working tracks.
From the side, it’s easy to see the angles of the scratchbuilt headlight guards. Cookie had to thin the fenders underneath to improve the fit of the tracks.
Power-cable hole Turret race
Extinguisher handle Styrene guards
After attaching Slater’s lettering for the weld-bead markings on the glacis, Cookie sanded to subdue them.
Ground, I moved the idler mount so the wheel axle sat over the original mounting hole for the idler arm. I mounted the arm below the hole, but found out later that I should have placed it above. On the fullsize tank, a hydraulic piston pushed the assembly forward through a bottom arc to maintain track tension. On my model, the idler wheel is in the right spot and hides the misplaced mechanism, 3. After establishing the standoff for the return rollers, I sliced the mounts from the hull and dropped them .060" (1.5mm). This provides clearance for the tracks between the return rollers and fenders. I also lowered the shafts for the drive sprockets .1" (2.5mm), 4. I built track runs — 81 links on the left, 82 on the right — and installed the drivers and the inner half of the road wheels, 5. The sprockets were left loose for tensioning and fitting the tracks. Here’s a trick for building track like this with press-fit end connectors: Leave 24 FineScale Modeler
Cookie scratchbuilt the fire extinguisher handles and their protective rails using styrene. He added a styrene turret race to tighten the fit and ease rotation.
sprue stubs on the connectors that finish the run to make it easy to remove and replace them for painting, 6.
Hull fittings I made a scrap-styrene template to plot spots for the headlight guards, then drilled locator holes with a .025" bit. I bent .025" styrene rod for the guards, cut tabs from strip styrene for the feet, and finished them with bolt heads sliced from Plastruct hexagonal rod. The upper section of the guards should run parallel to the ground and just reach the front edge of the glacis plate, 7. I was modeling a prototype made from mild steel, so I added the legend “NONBALLISTIC” and a serial number on the glacis using Slater’s Plastikard 3mm styrene lettering, 8. I drilled a hole to accomodate the electrical cord for the driver’s camera, although I didn’t fit the camera. The sides of the model are rather sparse, but both feature bosses for the fire
extinguisher handles. I used Evergreen L-strip for the guards and a tiny section of T-strip to make the handle, 9. The full-size tank was rigged to carry outer vehicle materials (OVM), also known as tools. I added a tanker’s bar and a sledgehammer on the left side, 10. On the right, I stowed an ax and mattock, 11. The kit provides the Nuclear Biological Chemical (NBC) air intake without a screen or motor bearing. I added the bearing using a styrene disc, a grille of aluminum screen, and a styrene cap ring and bolts, 12. I embellished the well-appointed rear plate with a picture-wire tow cable terminating with cable ends from Tamiya’s 1/35 scale M60. It hangs on brackets made from Contrail styrene tube. I built a storage case from styrene, 13.
The turret The searchlight, designed to mirror the gun’s elevation, needed two vertically split
The addition of a sledgehammer and tanker bar on the left fender, …
… and a mattock and ax on the right equipped the tank. Cookie suspects the shovel, an essential bit of kit on all American vehicles, is in one of the stowage bins. Styrene stowage box
Aluminum screen Styrene fixtures
Tamiya tow-cable eye
Styrene motor mount
Cookie improved the NBC intake with a styrene motor and aluminum screen.
The kit faithfully replicates Prototype No. 5 at Aberdeen, but needs a second stowage case and tow cable.
Cookie improved the searchlight with thin styrene doors and a wire power cable.
To correct the angles of the smoke-grenade launchers, Cookie replaced the upper brackets with strips of styrene shaped with a round file.
doors with a stiffening rib pressed into the centers. I connected the light to the turret outlet with a wire, running it through the forward lifting eye in keeping with army procedure, 14. To correct the alignment of the smokegrenade launchers, I removed the upper mounts. Styrene strip shaped with a rat-
tail file and cut to different lengths pointed them in the right direction, 15. The launchers function as a unit, firing all eight grenades at once to establish a 100meter screen in front of the tank. To do that, the forward tubes on each side point straight ahead and the rear tubes point about 45 degrees out from the centerline.
The intermediate tubes are each angled incrementally inward from back to front. The jig to shape the bustle rack does a nice job. But the rack should have five vertical brackets, not two as shown in the instructions. I removed attachment points from the turret’s lower edge, then added three asymmetrical points with styrene. December 2014
Scratchbuilt gyroscope Styrene brackets
Wire handle Bronze wire
The kit shows only two brackets for the turret basket, but there should be five — three attach to the turret, and the other two hold the ends of the floor bars.
17 “I have no clue what this gizmo is,” says Cookie. “I suspect it is probably part of the gyro stabilizer device for the driver’s position that was supposed to keep him facing forward.”
U.S. Military Tracked Vehicles, Fred W. Crimson, Motorbooks International, ISBN 978-0-87938672-6 Abrams: A History of the American Main Battle Tank, Vol. 2, R.P. Hunnicutt, Presidio Press, ISBN 9780-89141-388-2 SOURCES
18 Cookie prefers old-school enamels. He painted the MBT70 with Floquil Brunswick green and postshaded with RLM 80 olivgrün.
I cut three brackets from .015" styrene, notched their rear edges to accept horizontal rods, and cemented them to the styrene pads. Tichy Train Group’s .025" phosphor bronze wire is stiff and holds a bend well, so it proved perfect for the basket. I added the hanging brackets that form the end of the mounts for the floor rods, then added floor rods made from .025" styrene rod glued into holes in the brackets, 16. I made handles from .025" brass rod,
www.FineScale.com See the real thing! For this build, Cookie used photos of the MBT70 at the U.S. Army Ordnance Museum at Aberdeen Proving Ground before it closed in 2010. Registered users can see 50 of his images at www.FineScale.com/ OnlineExtras.
26 FineScale Modeler
and scratchbuilt the strange gizmo on the turret roof, 17. I think, based on some of the goofy items I ran across in my army career, that it’s part of the gyro mechanism to keep the driver’s module facing forward. The driver was in the turret and had to be looking in the direction of travel when the turret traversed. Finally, I prepared antennas. The MBT70 used an AN/VRC-47 FM radio with one transceiver (RT-524A) and one receiver (R-442A). So, one antenna is thick and a bit shorter, and the other longer and thinner. I mounted them on bases left over from Tamiya M151 kits.
Finishing I laid down a base coat of Floquil Brunswick green, a black green color, then added a top coat of Floquil RLM 80 German olivgrün. The result was a good olive drab, 18. I have yet to discover what kind of
Styrene letters — 3mm, Slater’s Plastikard (No. 1103), 44-1629734053, www.slatersplastikard.com Phosphor bronze wire — .25", Tichy Train Group (No. 1115), 336-3299038, www.tichytraingroup.com Clear and red lenses — .128", M.V. Products (nos. 516-128 and 516-129), available from Walthers, 800-4872467, www.walthers.com
alloy Diehl used for the MBT70’s tracks, but more than 40 years later they are still a dull silver without a speck of rust. I sprayed the tracks with Floquil gunmetal and hand-brushed the pads with Floquil weathered black. A black wash highlighted the bolts. After hand-brushing the road-wheel tires flat black, I fitted the tracks to the inner row of wheels. Then, I added the outside row of wheels to the model and discovered that some of the wheels weren’t the same size. So, even with the level sit of the road wheel arms, some wheels did not sit properly on the tracks. Sigh. I finished up the detail painting, then top-coated the model with Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM), 19.
At one time, Prototype No. 5 had a white ring painted around the muzzle of the gun. I believe it was added for better photo resolution during testing of the Shillelagh missile. I added the few markings — “NO. 5” at the top, “U.S. ARMY” in the center; and “09A 005 67” on the bottom — to both rear fenders using a combination of spare decals and Archer Fine Transfers postwar U.S. white bumper markings. I emphasized raised and recessed details with a pinwash and dry-brushing. A layer of Testors Dullcote made the surface receptive to ModelMakerZ pastels; the gunmetal produces a realistic parkerized finish on weapons. Then, I sealed the finish with Floquil dust. I attached the antennas, added M.V. Products lenses to the front lights — two clear, two infrared — and painted two coats of PFM on the sights. The viewers received blocks made from exposed 35mm film. Finally, I painted the taillights, the
19 After adding the tracks and outer road wheels, Cookie glossed the tank in preparation for weathering and a few decals.
right one flat white, the left one flat white followed by Testors stoplight red metallic.
Conclusion This kind of kit is not for the faint of heart or the casual modeler who expects to
finish a project in a weekend. This resin MBT70 requires patience, a good-sized parts box, and a selection of styrene rod in several shapes and sizes to achieve a good result. With some work, it looks right and fills a gap in my collection! FSM
Antennas and a coat of clear flat sealed the deal. As a demonstration prototype, or, as Cookie puts it, “a dog and pony show,” the MBT70 didn’t get overly dirty. So, he kept weathering to a minimum.
As Ernesto built this Trumpeter 1/48 scale Hawker Sea Fury in the colors of the Cuban air force, he improved detail where he could, fixed his mistakes when he found them, and remembered lessons from previous builds to finish an eye-catching model.
Model a Cuban COLD WARRIOR Eight easy steps to improve Trumpeter’s Sea Fury • BY ERNESTO URTIAGA
he sleek, powerful Hawker Sea Fury not only served Britain, but far-flung countries such as Australia, Egypt, Canada, the Netherlands, and Burma. In 1957, Cuban dictator Fulgencio Batista purchased 10 Sea Furies from Britain with another batch to be delivered in 1959. But by that time, Fidel Castro had ousted Batista and the shipment was cancelled. With a Trumpeter 1/48 scale Sea Fury (No. 02844) in my stash, I couldn’t resist finishing it in Fuerza Aérea del Ejército de Cuba (Cuban army air force) markings circa 1958 under the Batista regime. However, the kit’s shortcomings and some selfinflicted wounds would have to be overcome. Here’s how I did it. The cockpit is spare on detail. I used an Eduard photoetched-metal detail set (No. 49423) for more realism. I removed the molded-on details from the consoles for better adherence. Dots of Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM) applied to the gauges simulate glass. 28 FineScale Modeler
2 Sometimes you have to use what you have on hand to create detail: After checking references for the main wheel wells, I used tiny resistors and discs punched from sheet styrene to make cylinders, while wire and stretched sprue served as hoses and hydraulic lines.
Whenever I get the chance to build a model with a folded wing, I do it. Short lengths of fine wire spruce up the wing-fold interior.
5 The undercoat of Testors gloss black enamel developed minor orange peel in some places. I buffed the areas with 2400-, 3200-, 3600-, and 4000-grit sanding pads until the bumpy texture disappeared.
7 To achieve a bright, uniform yellow on the cowl, spinner, and propellerblade tips, I masked the areas and sprayed a white base coat first, let it dry, then followed up with yellow.
My Sea Fury would wear a natural metal finish, so it was imperative the fuselage be smooth. I sprayed Tamiya white primer on the airframe, revealing seams. I worked imperfect areas with progressively finer-grit sandpaper (go as high as you can!) and rescribed lost surface detail with a sharp needle.
6 A gloss black undercoat sets the tone for a shiny, clean natural-metal finish. I used Alclad II polished aluminum (No. ALC-105). To get the best results, build up the metallic finish using light coats.
8 To make the wingtip lights more realistic, I drilled a small hole into the underside of the clear part and flowed red (port) or green (starboard) paint into the recess to represent the bulb. Testors Clear Parts Cement attached the light to the wing. FSM December 2014
▲ WARREN MCCOY
MELBOURNE, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA
Warren weathered Panda’s 1/16 scale PzKpfw 38(t) with a multilayered paint treatment. After a thin, red-oxide enamel undercoat, he painted with Tamiya acrylics: flat black (XF-1) on vertical surfaces, German gray (XF-63) overall, and dark sea gray (XF-54) on horizontal surfaces. Next: a wash of burnt umber artist’s oils; shading with earth-tone pastels and Winsor & Newton artist’s oils; and dry-brushing with lighter shades to highlight nuts, bolt heads, and other raised features. Tamiya spray-can flat clear produced the finish. 30 FineScale Modeler
▲ CLAUDE TREMBLAY CHICOUTIMI, QUEBEC, CANADA
Although Claude’s 1/35 scale, 84" x 16" display took nine months to construct, it’s the ninth diorama he’s built since 2010. Accurate Armour’s Type VIIC U-boat is attended by a Verlinden lift truck, a train from Trumpeter, and figures from Tamiya and MiniArt. Claude scratchbuilt the buildings and crane. “I glued the dock together one brick at a time,” he says. “Laying 15,000 bricks took 40 hours.” Claude upgraded the U-boat with 2,000 handmade rivets. The scene also includes 42 human figures and two dogs.
◀ AOLO TOTARO GOLFO ARANCI, OLBIA-TEMPIO, ITALY
Aolo paired Model Cellar’s figure of German World War I ace Werner Voss with Roden’s 1/32 scale Albatros D.III. The biplane is marked with FCM decals.
▲ KEN MEYER COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO
What if Howard Hughes’ “Spruce Goose” — which was made of birch — had instead been manufactured in aluminum as an airliner? It might have looked like Minicraft’s 1/200 scale model of the H-4 Hercules in TWA livery, finished here in various metallic paints and Bare-Metal Foil.
KEN MAJESKI ROXBOROUGH PARK, COLORADO
Ken had a ready reference for his Hasegawa 1/48 scale model — his son, U.S. Marine Corps Capt. Stefan Majeski, a weapons systems officer (WSO) with VMFA225 flying the F-18D Hornet. Stefan took detail pictures of the plane while in Iraq, and Ken took several years getting the model just right. Eduard’s F-18D update set and a conversion kit from MAW Decals helped him more closely replicate his son’s aircraft. Ken counts FSM author Carmen Mari’s techniques for a heavily weathered Helldiver (Dec. 2008 issue) as essential for a sunbeaten Hornet. Myriad modifications, as well as a collection of kit, aftermarket, and homemade decals, mark the model, which Ken finally presented to his son as a birthday present.
32 FineScale Modeler
SEND US YOUR PICTURES! Shouldn’t your model be in Reader Gallery? FineScale Modeler is always accepting new material from around the world. Upload high-resolution digital images (preferably unedited, RAW format) with complete captions at www.Contribute.Kalmbach.com, or send prints or CD-ROMs to FineScale Modeler, Reader Gallery, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Be sure to tell us the kit manufacturer, model, scale, modifications, paint and finishes used, and reason for choosing the model, along with your name and address. We look forward to seeing your work! ▲ ROSS ARMSTRONG MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE
Ross built Imcth Fine Structure’s 1/32 scale P-51D to model Lt. Arthur Cundy’s P-51D Alabama Rammer Jammer, adding HGW seat belts and BarracudaCals cockpit placards. He writes, “This is a ‘before’ to be placed alongside my Tamiya 1/32 scale P-51D (the ‘after’).“
▶ KIRK OLSEN MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
“This is a Tamiya 1/35 scale Panther, fairly heavily modified,” says Kirk. “I’ve added armor skirts, a toolbox, and storage racks, and detailed the cannon travel-lock and cleaning-rod container.” Having enjoyed the model, Kirk had more fun with the photography — he used his computer to overlay an image of the model on a background photo.
◀ DWIGHT HUMPHREY BILLINGS, MONTANA
South Carolinian Buck Baker got his kicks running moonshine in earlier days. But when NASCAR fired up in 1949, he turned pro. Dwight added engine plumbing and seat belts to Revell’s 1/25 scale rendition of Baker’s 1950 Oldsmobile.
JORGE LUIZ MUSSOLIN SÃO PAULO, BRAZIL
Jorge’s scene portrays American soldiers trapped in a house somewhere in France, 1944, shortly after D-Day. The 1/72 scale display features a Matchbox SdKfz 234/2 Puma and an Academy Kübelwagen, with German infantry figures from Hasegawa, U.S. paratroopers from Italeri, and more German troops from Italeri. Jorge used acrylic gel medium for the water.
▶ ED RITCHEY WEST KINGSTON, RHODE ISLAND
“I bought this 1/48 scale Eduard Fokker E.III about 15 years ago and it sat on my workbench for maybe five years during off-and-on construction,” Ed says. “It was my first attempt at rigging; at times it felt like brain surgery. It portrays the kitrecommended markings of the German Navy in 1916. I experimented with color-mixing for the purple and canvas. The cowling is Testors silver with freehand pencil marks to represent machined metal.” Ed added a windshield cut from a plastic bottle. 34 FineScale Modeler
▲ MICHAEL CLARE LANCASTER, CALIFORNIA
▼ PABLO BAULEO FORT COLLINS, COLORADO
When he was 5, Michael was given a tour of the Klondikeclass destroyer tender USS Arcadia by his uncle, a crew member. “I remember going over the gangway and being scared,” Michael says. His uncle also got him started building models. Nearly 50 years later, Michael obtained 1/192 scale plans of Arcadia from the Floating Drydock and weighed anchor on a big project made all the more massive by not resizing the plans — so his ship is 31" long! He formed the hull with laminated balsa blocks “and sanding. And sanding. And sanding.” He covered the hull with fiberglass cloth, three coats of resin, and much more sanding. Decks, booms, superstructure, and most fittings are made from various styrene stock. After Michael finished with White Ensign enamels (deck gray and haze gray), his uncle worked up a display stand using a choice slab of birdseye maple he had been saving. “I did not think I could ever build a model from scratch,” Michael says. “But it appears I can.”
Pablo writes, “The Hawker Hurricane is a favorite of mine. It can be built in so many different finishes and markings. I had the Aeromaster decals for a Malta-based Hurricane, but no kit for them until the Pegasus 1/48 scale model came to the rescue.” Pablo converted it to a Mk.I “Trop” by adding a Vokes filter he got from a Hobbycraft Hurricane. “Most of the first Hurricanes that came to Malta were field-camouflaged, so a freehanded finish seems correct,” he says. He finished with Testors Model Master enamels and weathered with burnt sienna and burnt umber artist’s oils and Tamiya weathering powders.
▲ KEN MEYER COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO
Ken won Horizon’s 1/6 scale vinyl Captain America in a club raffle. “It was my first vinyl kit,” he says. The superhero debuted in December 1940 and, despite several changes over the years, is still going strong. December 2014
▲ DAVIDE MACCAGNI SALERANO SUL LAMBRO, LODI, ITALY
Davide painted Hasegawa’s 1/72 scale F-14 Tomcat with Testors Model Master enamels, used Alclad II for metal parts, and weathered with Pro Modeller washes and Tamiya paints.
▶ JOHN CONRAD CAYUGA, INDIANA
John scratchbuilt and motorized the South Dakota-class USS Indiana (BB-58) in 1/96 scale. “It took me six months just to do the drawings,” he says. Powered by two 12-volt batteries, John’s battleship has maple ribs and keel with an aluminum skin covered by fiberglass. Balsa and 3⁄16" plywood form the superstructure. All guns are scratchbuilt; each mount for the 40mm guns comprises 21 parts; and the 16" guns and 5" gun mounts move. The model is more than 61⁄2' long and, as you see, it floats.
36 FineScale Modeler
◀ MIKE WALSTON
Building Revell’s box scale Ornithopter from the 1984 David Lynch film “Dune,” Mike says, “I airbrushed this gothic-looking kit with a gloss black and silver mixture, then heavily dusted it with pastels. I added a blue House Harkonnen crest above the central windshield.”
▲ JEREMIAS NICOLAS LUCHINA YERBA BUENA, TUCUMAN, ARGENTINA
Jeremias writes: “This is a model of the I.Ae.24 Calquin (Royal Eagle). Designed in Argentina during World War II, the plane was all wood because of material shortages. The prototype first flew in 1946. After the revolution of 1955, the Calquin was still seen as a strong Perónist symbol. That sealed its fate. None of the aircraft survive.” Jeremias built Mirage Resin Models 1/48 scale kit, a multimedia affair with resin, white-metal, and vacuum-formed parts. “It was the most difficult kit I have built,” he says, “but I’m happy to finally have a Calquin in my collection of Argentine aircraft.” December 2014
| FSM BASICS |
Jean-Jacques used Tamiya’s 1/72 scale A6M3 Model 32 “Hamp” (kit No. 60784), photoetched metal and canopy masks from Eduard, and fundamental techniques to model his Zero. Berna Decals markings put his plane in Japan’s 1st Kokutai at Rabaul, summer 1942.
TAKE 10 TIPS for a better build
Zero plus details makes a model more
etched-metal detail set (No. 73-447). The latter actually is made for Tamiya’s 1/72 scale A6M5, but it provides well for my plane. So, in the spirit of a leisurely, relaxing project, let’s look at some basics that easily improve the model — a worthy goal no matter what.
amiya’s 1/72 scale Mitsubishi A6M3 Zero Fighter Model 32 “Hamp” is a pleasant surprise for a 54-part kit: a movable propeller; open or closed canopy; and good-looking representations of the cockpit, wheel bays, and landing gear. Whether you want a break from models with higher part
I airbrushed the cockpit side walls with Tamiya IJN cockpit green (XF-71) and added wire for various conduits. Use super glue to attach metal — styrene cement won’t work. 38 FineScale Modeler
counts or you’re just reluctant to dive into a more complicated build, a straightforward approach to this famous fighter can make it a satisfying project with admirable results. Of course, there’s always room for improvement. I shopped Eduard for canopy masks (No. CX374) and a photo-
Looks fancy, but it’s mainly kit parts, brushpainted details, precolored photoetched metal, and decals. I added some wire for lines on the floor.
BY JEAN-JACQUES LABROT
3 Photoetched-metal wiring is an easy way to soup up the engine.
After a light coat of Tamiya gray Fine Surface Primer, I applied Tamiya IJN gray green (XF-76). Early in the war, the A6M3 would have had a gloss finish and not much weathering. I airbrushed acrylic semigloss clear for the proper sheen and a smooth, receptive surface for decals.
6 The wheel bays’ distinctive interior primer color is a 3:1 mix of Tamiya metallic blue (X-13) and clear green (X-25), respectively.
9 CMK Star Dust black smut pigment (No. SD10) provides subtle streaks of weathering; brush lightly along the airflow.
7 It’s easier to paint these details off the model. Foil replicates oleos on the landing-gear legs; flex hoses on the gear are .2mm wire. You can mask the canopy with thin Tamiya tape, but the Eduard masks make it easier; they’re cut to fit the kit parts.
AK Interactive’s wash for NATO camo (No. AK 075) accentuates engraved panel lines and other recesses, giving them greater contrast and toning down the exterior color. Before it dries, remove excess wash with a soft cloth. Drag it in the direction of the airflow for subtle shading.
8 I painted the tires flat black. After that dried, I covered the black with Maskol liquid mask. A light brushing (almost dry-brushing) of Humbrol metallic silver (No. 11) covered the wheels and hub. Removing the liquid mask reveals crisply painted wheels.
10 Display-base materials: Evergreen styrene stock; Polák flocking (static grass); Tamiya ground texture and groundwork binder; and Tamiya thin styrene cement to glue together a plastic box.
Keep your hobby a hobby: All you need for a fulfilling build are a good model kit, basic techniques carefully executed, and just a little extra detail to make it special. FSM
Canadian Starfighter Superdetailing Italeri’s big F-104 BY JEAN PAUL POISSEROUX
hen I built Italeri’s 1/32 scale F-104 (kit No. 2502), I wanted to reproduce a scene at Royal Canadian Air Force Station Marville (in northeastern France) to recall my days living in the Lorraine region. Based about 20 miles away, the maple-leaf-marked Starfighters often flew over Blagny, my hometown. Photos I saw in Philippe Baar’s book Marville RCAF Air Base 1954-1967 (Michel Frères, no ISBN) inspired me to depict CF-104 serial No. 12854 receiving a Vicon reconnaissance pod before a mission. In the photo, the ground crew worked under the watchful eyes of several sheep responsible for maintaining greenery on the base. The main challenges would be a natural-metal finish and finding the appropriate ground crew and equipment — not to mention sheep. The Italeri cockpit is fairly complete, but it doesn’t match the Canadian version. I scanned instrument consoles from In Canadian Service Aircraft: Starfighter CF104, by Anthony L. Stachiw and Andrew Tattersall (Vanwell, ISBN 978-1-55125114-1), reduced them to scale and reversed them, then printed them — and that is where my build begins. 40 FineScale Modeler
1 Jean Paul put reversed console images on swatches of an aluminum-foil cake pan to emboss knobs and buttons. He used styrene rod or stretched sprue for bigger knobs and buttons.
Italeri’s 1/32 scale F-104 Starfighter provides good detailing options, such as an engine that can be displayed separately. But Jean Paul wanted more to match his reference photos of the aircraft — more open panels, more interior gizmology, and, ultimately, a diorama base.
2 Drilling out spaces on the kit’s main panel, Jean Paul punched out aluminum printing foil to replace the instruments (right). He also formed wire into instrument bezels.
True Details seat
3 The Starfighter cockpit is open under the seat, so Jean Paul cut it out of the kit’s tub. He replaced the kit’s seat with one from True Details’ resin cockpit set (No. TD32454) but retained the kit seat’s frame rail. You can see the difference between the resin seat and the kit part (far right). December 2014
True Details shroud
4 The True Details set also provided cockpit side walls and a more detailed panel shroud (right).
5 Scraps of clear plastic and photoetched metal form various levers and T-handles on the instrument panel.
Jean Paul detailed the panel behind the seat with fuse wire.
7 On the landing gear, the first order of business was sanding mold lines off the legs.
Brake lines Towing ring
Electrical wire serves for brake lines and towing rings.
42 FineScale Modeler
The gear bays are painted aluminum and washed with Tamiya smoke (X-19) to deepen the molded detail.
10 Jean Paul planned to show part of the engine, so he painted it and represented heat distortion using Tamiya weathering powders and Tamiya smoke to vary colors and shades.
11 He wanted more open panels for a maintenance scene, so Jean Paul modeled hydraulic and electric bays below and on the right side using CMK resin sets. A silver pencil comes in handy for details.
12 Jean Paul framed one of the larger hatches with the same aluminum used for the instrument consoles, using a pin vise to drill holes in the strip.
Meet Jean Paul Poisseroux
Slices of styrene filled gaps between the wings and fuselage.
The aircraft has a natural-metal finish, but the nose cone is painted a gray green. Jean Paul mixed Tamiya sky gray (XF-19) with just a dash of Tamiya Japanese navy gray (XF-12).
Jean Paul, 52, of Douai, France, has been modeling since he was 13. He is a school accountant but has also been busy in print media as a reviewer for Replic magazine. Serving as a spotter and news correspondent for the Armée de l’Air allowed him to report on meetings and events at Cambrai air base, where he got a close view of the Mirage F1 and 2000 jets. His research documentation appears in books and has been used for decal designs. He favors 1/48 and 1/32 scale aircraft but says that sharing tips and his passion for the hobby is as interesting as building the models. December 2014
Rub ’n Buff silver leaf (No. 76370K) covers most of the plane, with pewter (No. 76380A) on darker panels aft. Tamiya flat black acrylic gives the Rub ’n Buff good footing and enriches the metallic sheen.
“Application is easy,” says Jean Paul. “Put a little of the paste on your finger and rub it on.” Masking helped keep the pewter panels precise.
“Let the application dry for 24 hours before polishing with a cotton swab or soft cloth,” Jean Paul says. “The more you rub, the more it shines. I wear gloves to prevent fingerprints.”
To get the serial numbers and markings he wanted, Jean Paul ordered Canuck Models’ “CF-104 Starfighter RCAF + 3” sheet (No. 001-32). “They reacted well to Microscale Micro Set and Micro Sol decal solutions, and the Rub ’n Buff was not adversely affected,” he says.
CF-104 decals, Canuck Model Products, www.canuckmodels.com Resin bay details, CMK, www.cmkkits.com Rub ’n Buff, Amaco, www.amaco.com F-104 cockpit details, True Details, www.squadron.com
Numbers and markings that spanned open panels had to be cut up accordingly. Jean Paul made copies that helped him align the various pieces.
Jean Paul painted the canopy framing and added a pressurization tube and locking points made from toothpick tips.
www.FineScale.com/OnlineExtras See how Jean Paul planned and built his display base according to references — and tended his flock within his budget.
21 A thinned layer of Tamiya smoke provided light weathering. Tally Ho! “remove before flight” tags provided a finishing touch for preflight. Jean Paul says, “The aircraft was finished, except for my personal memories of it. For that, I built a display that included ground crew and equipment — and, of course, sheep.” FSM 44 FineScale Modeler
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Phillip proves that building a great plastic model sailing ship doesn’t always require a great sailing-ship builder. By following some basic guidelines, he built Revell’s 1/56 scale yacht America into a beautiful addition to his collection.
TIPS FOR BUILDING PLASTIC SAILING SHIPS
Improve your next model ship today • BY PHILLIP GORE
lways attention-grabbers, sailing ships can be some of the most fulfilling — and most challenging — models to build. Intricate rigging, delicate sails, bright colors, and weathered wood add up to a dazzling display. 46 FineScale Modeler
However, these same features can scare off modelers. Don’t be afraid! Any modeler can build a plastic sailing ship. First, choose a simple model with a small part count, few sails, and minimal rigging — such as Revell’s 1/56 scale
yacht America. Take the time to cover any ejector-pin marks inside the hull with .015" sheet styrene. These marks will otherwise mar your finished model. Similarly, cover ejector-pin marks on deck furnishings. Now, you’re ready to build.
1 Tall masts that come in hollow halves are susceptible to warping and bending under the stress of rigging. Gluing a brass rod in one half of the mast before assembling it adds strength and keeps it arrow-straight.
2 To achieve a subtle, multicolored deck, first apply a light base color, such as Tamiya deck tan (XF-55). Then, spread a medium brown pastel powder over the entire deck with a soft, thick brush, wiping away any excess. Lastly, airbrush a dilute mix of the base color randomly over the deck. (The deck on the left is finished; awaiting final coat on the right.)
Hull painting should start with the lightest color first: in this case, a white waterline stripe. Metallic paints should be applied last to avoid mixing metal flakes with other colors.
Dry-brushing raised wood grain is a great way to pick out detail and transform a nice-looking model into a remarkable miniature.
5 To model plastic sails realistically, first airbrush a coat of flat white and let it dry. Then, brush medium gray pastel powder over the entire surface. Last, using a very soft cloth, buff the sail to remove most of the pastel powder, leaving enough to accent the raised and recessed areas. Easy!
6 Use fine tweezers when running rigging or adding reef points to keep from damaging surrounding parts. Super glue locks the thread in place.
7 When rigging multiple blocks, gently pull the thread tight along its entire length before gluing. Make sure the line is taut, but not so much that it bends spars or masts. FSM December 2014
Questions & Answers A clinic for your modeling problems By Aaron Skinner
Painting small-scale plastic armies Q I recently replaced my long-lost child-
hood collection of 1/72 scale military figures with recently released sets from Airfix and Revell. The figures are soft plastic (gloss finish) in various action poses and are commonly used in dioramas. What are the best methods and products to paint them? I use Testors Model Master and Humbrol enamels. – Mark Suek Parkersburg, W.V. A The biggest issue with these kinds of figures is that the plastic most commonly used — polyethylene — is flexible and resists paint. The first thing to do is clean the figures thoroughly in soap and water. Once they are dry, prep them with a primer designed especially for plastic. Krylon Fusion and Rust-Oleum Specialty Plastic Primer work very well for this. But first, test whatever primer or paint you use to be sure it will work and won’t adversely affect the plastic. After priming, you can use most kinds of paint. But, again, test to ensure compatibility. Vallejo paints and clear gloss Q After focusing for many years on model
railroading, I’ve decided to get back into building model planes. I want to concentrate on World War II aircraft because I was born in 1948, just a few years after the end of the war. It has been about 35 years since I’ve built and painted any model plane kits. Have I ever had an eye-opening experience so far! My main questions are about Vallejo paints. I’ve been purchasing a few of them as I can find them. I joined the local model club and talked to a couple of the guys who use Vallejo paints on a limited basis. I’ve asked about thinning them for airbrush use and haven’t really received a Got a modeling problem? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. E-mail [email protected]ﬁnescale.com, or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. We publish letters of general interest in the magazine; however, mail volume and space limitations prevent us from printing every question. Please include your name, town, state, and a daytime phone number.
48 FineScale Modeler
good answer. One told me to use 91-percent isopropyl alcohol and add a drop of Windex to help the paint cover and lay down well. Have you heard of this, and what do you think about it? In Questions & Answers in October 2014, you recommended using the manufacturer’s thinner because it has additives to aid adhesion. Do you think the above combination is a viable alternative? I’ve also picked up a bottle of Future [now known as Pledge FloorCare MultiSurface Finish, or PFM] to dip canopies. Some articles suggest it can also be used as a general clear coat for decals. Do you put this on with an airbrush? If so, what do you thin it with? Is there someplace on the FSM website that gives a list of all the aftermarket manufacturers? – J. Motts El Paso, Texas A Thanks for contacting FineScale Modeler, and welcome back to modeling! Let me see if I can answer your questions. Vallejo paints are great, but they take a little getting used to. If you are airbrushing, I recommend the Model Air range: They are airbrush-ready straight from the bottle. If not, I recommend thinning with Vallejo thinner. It just makes life easier. I haven’t tried the alcohol-and-Windex method. It might work, but I’ve found that alcohol can react poorly with some paints. Also, be careful with ammonia-based cleaners; they can damage the brass parts often found in airbrushes. You might try thinning with water and a drop of dish soap. You can apply PFM straight from the bottle or thin it slightly with alcohol. I use it straight. To airbrush it, set the pressure to about 15-20 psi and mist it on initially. Keep the brush moving and build up the finish a little at a time. As the clear acrylic goes on, it will eventually gloss out. This can take a while. Don’t apply it too quickly, though, or you will get runs. Then let the model sit for 48 hours. The PFM will level as it dries. This technique takes practice to refine. But the result is a sturdy clear gloss that is great for decals and weathering. You can also get good results by brushing it on by hand with a soft brush. FSM doesn’t maintain a list of all aftermarket companies. They come and go very quickly. We do have a list of all of the new
products that we get; you can find it at www.FineScale.com/Products.
Problems with Alclad II black Q I have been trying to airbrush Alclad II
gloss black (ALC 304). I used an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS, a Badger 150, and a Paasche VL Airbrush, all with the same results: The gloss black would not flow out of any of the airbrushes unless I flooded on the paint. I have a crown head for the Eclipse and Badger. I sprayed at 15 psi using a MicroLux Twin-Cylinder compressor. Following FSM ’s January 2012 natural-metal article, I prepped the surface with Tamiya’s light gray primer and sanded with Micro-Mesh finishing cloths. It was not humid at the time. The Alclad was bought in July 2010 and had not been opened until I was ready to use it. Alclad says its paints have a 5-year shelf life. Have you heard about anybody else having this problem? – Lloyd Hackett Huntsville, Ala. A I haven’t encountered this problem before. It sounds like it needs to be thinned to spray. It’s possible that it has thickened slightly in the four years since you bought it. Try thinning it with Mr. Color Thinner or Tamiya lacquer thinner, then test spray to see if that corrects the problem. If not, contact Alclad II (www.alclad2.com) to see if someone there can suggest a solution. Decal problems Q I am a relatively new modeler, and I
have been trying to improve my decal application. This has been one of the biggest issues for me, so I was wondering if you could answer a couple of questions. I recently built Revell’s 1/48 scale Messerschmitt Me 262. I noticed afterwards that the decals, in particular the Balkenkreuz for the wings, were distinctly raised above the surface. I have noticed something similar on most of my other models, especially if I hold them up to the light at an angle. Is this normal? I use Vallejo Model Air for painting, aerosol cans of Testors Glosscote to seal my models before decaling, and Badger decal solutions 1 and 2 for decal application. The Badger No. 1 solution often seems to strip or discolor the Glosscote. This was extremely evident after I had used Vallejo Chipping solution on a
For precise cuts, it’s a good idea to eliminate the glare and reflections along the blade.
Cutting a piece of foil larger than the pane ensures complete coverage.
Trimming the foil can be daunting, but patience and care is rewarded with a neatly masked window.
After applying foil to every section of a canopy, burnish the masking down to ensure tight seals.
No tape: Canopy masking is easy and neat with self-adhesive foil
Q Are there easy ways to mask canopies of World War II and later aircraft? I always have problems with masking tape, especially cutting it out and fitting it. No matter what I do or how careful I am, it doesn’t work very well. – Warren Tyson, Blenheim, New Zealand
An option that works well for masking canopies is selfadhesive foil, such as Bare-Metal Foil. Start by running a Sharpie along the edge of a new No. 11 blade, 1. This dulls reflections, making it easier to see where you are cutting. Next, cut a piece of foil slightly larger than the pane you are masking,
model. Are the Badger solutions more potent than most? What decal solutions would you recommend? – Bram Woolley Allentown, Pa. A Decals can be troublesome, and problems can send your masterpiece into the bin right at the end of a build. Decals are made by printing layers of ink onto a carrier film, then sealing them with a layer of clear. All of these layers add up to thicker decal images. This is especially true when decal printers try to ensure whites
2. Transfer the foil to the canopy using tweezers or the tip of the knife, then burnish it to the surface with a cotton swab. (I like to run a toothpick gently along the edges of the frame to help define it.) Then, carefully run the knife along the edge, pressing just hard enough to cut the foil without damaging the clear plastic. Peel off the excess, exposing the frames to be painted, 3. Repeat this for each pane. A final burnishing with a cotton swab will seal the foil and prevent paint bleeding, 4. The foil is flexible and will conform around corners and over complex shapes better than even thin tape. Once you are done painting, score along the foil edges with a sharp blade, then peel up the masks. Scoring minimizes the risk of paint peeling off with the mask. Another useful option is Eduard’s precut masks. They are designed to fit specific kits, are easy to use, and adhere well.
will be opaque over dark paint. Decal solvents can help settle the markings into detail, but they won’t make them thinner. The best way to hide the edges is to seal the markings under clear coats, lightly sanding between layers. Be careful when doing this to avoid damaging the decal. Eventually the transition will smooth out. I haven’t used Badger decal solutions before, so I’m not familiar with their strength. If they are affecting the Glosscote, it may be that they are too strong or that the lacquer is not cured. I’ve seen a similar effect with solutions on PFM. I like Mi-
croscale’s solutions for most projects; they don’t seem to affect most paints. I also use Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer for Hasegawa and older Tamiya decals. Walthers Solvaset is about as strong as decal solutions get — sometimes too strong — but it’s handy for troublesome markings. For more details about decals, including troubleshooting, check out the 3-part special in the July 2013 FSM. You can order back issues at www.FineScale.com/ BackIssues, or by calling Kalmbach customer service, 800-533-6644 (international 262-796-8776). FSM December 2014
Reader Tips Solutions and innovations By Mark Hembree
Popsicle sticks help Jonathan handle photoetched-metal rails so he can form and paint them completely in the same day. He waits 24 hours for the paint to dry, then proceeds.
Nothing looks more like soot on metal than soot on metal. Dan replaced the kit’s stacks with aluminum tubing, then singed the metal for exhaust stains on his Italeri 1/24 scale Western Star.
Soot for stacks
– Dan Toporek Exton, Pa.
and applied Tenax liquid styrene cement with a Touch-N-Flow applicator. The Tenax melts the sprue and surrounding plastic, making a solid repair that can be sanded smooth and even rescribed if necessary. This seam is invisible under the Alclad II paint.
Nothing is smoother than sprue
– Ernesto Urtiaga Oviedo, Fla.
To replicate truck exhaust stacks with soot at the opening, I substitute aluminum tubing for the kit parts, angle the ends, and blacken them with an open flame.
While building an old Monogram 1/48 scale F-101B Voodoo, I had a couple of gaps at the joins that would not close. I did not want to use any putty because I would be using Alclad II for a natural-metal finish and, even with careful sanding, the putty tends to show underneath the paint. Instead, I stretched some sprue to use as filler. I laid the stretched sprue in the gap Would you like to share an idea about a tool or technique? Send a brief description along with a photograph or sketch to “Reader Tips.” E-mail [email protected] ﬁnescale.com or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” Tips are paid for upon publication; if you live in the U.S., we’ll need your Social Security number to pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the text and images upon payment.
50 FineScale Modeler
Sprue filler, Part 2
Sometimes regular filler putty is too thick or too much for the job. Instead, make your own: Grab a length of sprue and a small, hand-held pencil sharpener. “Sharpen” the sprue and put the shavings in a bottle of Testors liquid styrene cement. Wait about 30 minutes, then shake (don’t stir). It should be thick enough to fill small gaps. – Tim Konrad Appleton, Wis. Happiness is a warm mask
To make canopy masks easier to apply and adhere better to complicated curves, I warm them slightly with a hair dryer set on low. Heat makes the masks more pliable, and the backing seems stickier and seals better. – Dennis Cermak Fraser, Mich.
I do a lot of 1/700 scale ship modeling, and I sometimes find myself stuck in a rut when it’s time to detail an otherwise finished build. Attaching a single section of photoetched-metal railing, for example, can become a days-long process: Painting a length of rail flat on a strip of masking tape requires at least one coat per side, with a minimum 24 hours in between for drying and another 24 hours after that for the most recent work to dry. Add to that the possibility of paint lifting when all is said and done, and it’s definitely a momentum-killer! I recently figured out a better way, though. Once I’ve measured out the rail and planned whatever bends are needed, I cut the photoetched metal long by an extra section or two, then secure it to a Popsicle stick with white glue. An hour for the glue to dry, two minutes with the airbrush, 24 hours to cure, and voila! I cut the finished product to the correct length and get back to the shipyard. – Jonathan Scott Dallas, Ga. Nuts for foil
As fewer wine bottles are sealed with cork, the foil wrapped around the cork is getting harder to find. But I noticed that nut containers have a foil seal that is the perfect thickness for seat belts or other items. Use a spoon to burnish the foil flat for use. The nuts are pretty good, too! – Wayne Dippold Clarence, N.Y. Crafty tips
I am a frequent shopper at my local craft and fabric store, where I find many items
for my modeling. In the jewelry department are several sizes of chains, wires, and bracelet components which have become vehicle accessories. In the same area are many useful modeling tools. The craft-paper area has diorama materials for wallpaper, tile floors, and roofing, as well as hand punches that can be used to make leaves and other vegetation. In other parts of the store I have found materials that closely resemble grass, weeds, sand, dirt, plowed fields, and swamp or marsh terrain, as well as lichen and other groundwork materials. And of course there is that dense floral foam, suitable for carving and many other uses. If you haven’t already, visit a craft store, look around the different departments, and imagine the possibilities. – Jack Brendle Maricopa, Ariz.
Testors’ little paint bottles fit just right in a standard roll of electrical tape, which prevents tipping.
Old standby, no spill
A Testors 1⁄4-ounce (7.5ml) paint bottle fits the middle of a roll of electrical tape perfectly. Put it there and it will not tip over. – Greg Hildebrandt Winamac, Ind.
Compact modeling kit
I live in a cramped apartment with my wife and my 93-year-old mother. I don’t have a set place to do my modeling. But I found a small plastic tool caddy and, “benefitting” from my mother’s abundance of pill bottles, I came up with a pretty functional kit. Using bottles of various size, I lined the open box, grouping putty, adhesives, knives, files, etc. I just pick up the caddy and take it to where I’m working. I can pull out individual pill bottles with the tools I’m using or leave them in the caddy, depending on which is more convenient at the moment. Best of all, I can see everything — no digging around in a drawer or wondering what I did with that darn file! – Allen Kerns Cincinnati, Ohio
With empty medicine bottles for organizers, a shelf-size tool caddy makes a space-efficient, mobile modeling kit for Allen.
For an easy and inexpensive airfield base, use 1⁄4" white poster board (the type with a foam core). For 1/72 scale, I draw 1" squares with a black ballpoint pen and add a few cracks here and there. Spray it medium gray and shade it with dark gray and light black tire tracks. Add a little static grass to the cracks and you have your tarmac or hard stand, just like that. – Richard Daymont Gulfport, Miss. Powered brush for weathering
A Spinbrush battery-powered toothbrush is great for weathering armor. I use it for chipping and scrubbing a top coat to show underlying colors (bare metal or primer) or with AK Interactive’s Worn Effects.
This eraser’s not for mistakes: Terry makes it a pad for wet-sanding. It’s impervious to water and reusable when the sandpaper wears out.
Sanding pad For wet-sanding, I like to use a self-made device that works great for me. I purchased a Paper Mate Pink Pearl eraser and cut it in half. Then I measured out 400- and 600grit wet/dry sandpaper, wrapped each around an eraser half, and stapled the paper to the eraser. I labeled each eraser with the grit number. When the sandpaper is worn out, rewrap and repeat. I have found this sanding pad very helpful in all of my builds. – Terry Davis, Bremerton, Wash.
– John Wright Kokomo, Ind.
takes paint well; it seals nicely, even with low-cost craft acrylic paints. A small tub of it will last a long time.
Tackled with spackle
– Ned Barnett Las Vegas, Nev.
I have discovered a remarkable multipurpose filler — DAP’s knife-grade high-performance spackling paste. I can fill large areas quickly, sand it easily, and clean up with water. I first used it on a science-fiction spacecraft, but right now I’m using it for groundwork and as part of a pedestal for a figure diorama. I apply and smooth it with my fingers; it’s almost as much fun as fingerpainting when I was a kid. Thin coats are dry within an hour. I sand it smooth with a rough-textured sanding pad. Spackle
Pipe cleaners and WD-40
After years of goofing up clear plastic parts by painting over the lines, I recently found that spraying a cotton swab or pipe cleaner with WD-40 and rubbing the mistake removes paint without harming the plastic. Maybe you already knew that, but it was welcome news to me! – Mike Kolasa Garf ield, N.J. December 2014
Workbench Reviews FSM evaluations of new kits on the market
Eduard’s Gustav offers features, value
he Bf 109G-6 has to be one of the most popular variants of the Messerschmitt fighter, judging by the fact that every major model company has a kit in their product line. Now, Eduard has
added one to its popular 1/48 scale ProfiPack line. The kit is cleanly molded in neutral gray plastic with exceptional surface finish. Included are canopy masks, colored pho-
The Messerschmitt’s cockpit is small, but Eduard crams in the details, including photoetched-metal instrument panels and seat belts. The fuel line on the starboard side comes in clear plastic. 52 FineScale Modeler December 2014
toetched-metal parts, underwing cannon pods, bombs, and a drop tank. Unused parts include the tall tail/rudder, Erla-style canopy, tires/wheels, and fuselage bomb rack. These bonuses will allow other Bf 109G versions to be built out of this tooling. I started construction with the wellappointed cockpit. It features photoetched metal for the instrument panel, seat belts, rudder pedals, chains, and control boxes. Some of these parts are also given as plastic parts. The unique drop-tank fuel pipe is provided in clear plastic to accurately portray the fuel-flow viewing section. Wow! The fuselage went together well after I had installed the cockpit module. I test fitted the separate gun bulges, engine air intake, and oil cooler housing. The fits were so precise I decided I could paint them separately and add them after painting primary fuselage colors. I was pleased to see how the nose-gun panel matched the actual design. Other 109 kits have created fictitious seams that need to be corrected or ignored. Also, I was impressed that Eduard was able to mold the four small cowling intakes with openings!
The wings assembled without a problem. But make sure you get the top wing panels aligned with the lower wing: There are no alignment pins; rather, the circular gear bays have alignment slots that match the top wing parts. All of the flying surfaces parts are separate; with removal of the locating tabs, they can be posed up or down. Being a 109 enthusiast (nut?), two things I look for are the proper dihedral and the landing-gear cant. The kit makes a good representation of the dihedral, but something about the gear legs didn’t look right — from a side view, the stance seemed too nose-high. I believe the gear legs need to angle forward more. Picking up a suggestion from Internet modeling forums, I modified the location pins on the gear legs to allow a more-forward rake. All three blades of the propeller in my kit had a nasty sink hole on the back side. I was able to clear this up with some filler and sanding. I painted my Bf 109 “Gustav” with Gunze Sangyo Hobby Color Luftwaffe
acrylic paint. I like how these paints replicate the semigloss of Luftwaffe paint. Decals are given for five aircraft. Beautifully printed by Cartograf, they applied perfectly over the semigloss surfaces with a touch of decal solution. My primary reference was Aero Detail 5: Messerschmitt Bf 109G, by Shigeru Nohara and Masatsugu Shiwaku (Model Graphix, ISBN 978-4-499-20589-4). Also, I found Luftwaffe Colours, Vol. Five, Section 1: Jagdwaffe, Defending the Reich, 1943-1944, by Robert Forsyth (Ian Allen, ISBN 978-1903223-44-4) useful, which had a photo and color drawing of the scheme I chose. Based on my tried-and-true plan references, both the wingspan and fuselage length of the finished model are too long for 1/48 scale. This was disappointing; I’ve read that Eduard will address the problem in the near future. I completed my Messerschmitt in 26 hours with mixed emotions. On one hand, Eduard has offered an exceptional kit in terms of quality, features, and value. On the other hand, the dimensional problems were
Kit: No. 8268 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: Eduard, www.eduard.com Price: $49.95 Comments: Injection-molded, 227 parts (49 photoetched metal), decals Pros: Precise fits; clear instructions; excellent clear plastic; interesting markings Cons: Incorrect scale dimensions
a letdown. Nevertheless, I can easily recommend the kit to intermediate and advanced modelers. If you’re a Luftwaffe enthusiast, you will want to add this kit to your collection. – Jim Zeske December 2014
Tamiya USS Saratoga (CV-3)
amiya demonstrates the increasing sophistication of 1/700 scale model production with its accurate depiction of the USS Saratoga, circa 1945, reflecting four years of war repairs and modifications that significantly altered the lines of the carrier that was launched in 1925. Off Iwo Jima in February 1945, kamikazes set Saratoga ablaze. But barely more than four hours after the first hit, the battle-hardened crew had controlled the fires. Sara recovered a few more aircraft that day, then retired to Bremerton, Wash., and was converted to a training ship. Its distinguished career met an inglorious end in 1946, when it was destroyed in an underwater nuclear bomb test at Bikini Atoll. The kit comprises a two-piece slidemold, waterlined asymmetrical hull; five
Kit: No. 31713 Scale: 1/700 Manufacturer: Tamiya, www.tamiya.com Price: $68 Comments: Injection-molded, 347 parts, decals Pros: Sharp molding; fine detail; good fits; clear instructions Cons: Thick radar screen; thick, silvering decals
54 FineScale Modeler December 2014
medium-gray styrene sprues; one slab of ballast metal; and a sheet of deck decals. The molding has fine detail throughout with no flash or sink marks. The parts count is less daunting when you consider most of them are life rafts (72) and antiaircraft guns (53 mounts including 5", 40mm, and 20mm guns; 128 barrels in all). The 11-step instructions and 22 subassemblies are printed front and back on one sheet. Building progresses in a logical fashion and will not present fit issues if you follow the instruction sheet. A note regarding parts C8, which have dual radar screens Mk.12/Mk.22 for the Mk.37 main antiaircraft directors: Take care to avoid trimming off the height-finding side screen. Another two-sided sheet is enclosed for colors and decal placement. On the back side is a history of the ship in both Japanese and English. The hull fits well, with its two-piece horizontal internal-support flat-bottom section and five internal vertical support brackets plus metal ballast, and the flight deck fits perfectly on the hull. Building up the superstructure and stack, the only thing I would change would be to substitute photoetched metal for the blocky radar. The funnel top is nicely rendered, with open vents for the stacks. After that, be ready to assemble and place 72 rafts and all those gun mounts while determining aircraft location.
Decals include only the flight deck and small No. 3 for the bow. (The camouflaged bow-elevator markings are memorable in that all the kamikaze attacks hit there or forward, not the true elevator location.) The deck decals are thick and easy to lay down, but they silvered on the finely detailed deck. They finally responded to Walthers Solvaset — but use that stuff with caution. Notably, there is no U.S. 48-star flag included; you’ll have to add your own, as I did using stretched sprue for halyards. You may wish for more of the welldetailed F6F-5N Hellcats and TBM-3N Avengers (four of each provided), but you should remember that, at the time, Saratoga was running flight operations ’round the clock. Hangar and deck crews were split for coverage, resulting in fewer aircraft on deck. Tamiya’s accuracy, taking in all the changes to Saratoga after being laid down in 1920, is laudable. The kit scales out correctly to present an interesting look compared with earlier offerings of the Lexington-class carriers. I spent 41 hours building, painting, and decaling Tamiya’s Saratoga, and I am pleased with the look of CV-3 at war’s end. Everything fits, the instructions are clear, and with a few kits’ worth of experience, any modeler can enjoy building a good replica of this early carrier. – Mark Karolus
Dragon MBT70/KPz 70
he MBT70 was a joint project between the U.S. and West Germany. Development started in the early 1960s, but, by the end of the decade, cost overruns and philosophical differences cancelled the project. Nevertheless, many of the vehicle’s features would be seen in later designs, such as the M1 Abrams and the Leopard 2. Three U.S. vehicles and two German vehicles survive in museums today. Dragon’s new kit appears in its new Black Label line. The only other injectionmolded model of the vehicle is a 1/48 scale Aurora kit from the 1960s. Despite Dragon’s labeling, only the West German KPz 70 version can be built from the kit; the U.S. MBT70 had several differences in the engine deck and turret. Molded in gray plastic, the kit features good detail. A small clear sprue provides lenses for the major sensors and the headlights. Besides the instruction booklet, Dragon provides a four-page color brochure with walkaround detail photos of the vehicle at the Deutsches Panzermuseum in Munster, Germany. A small decal sheet provides markings for the museum vehicle. Surprisingly, no photoetched metal is supplied in the kit. A set of screens for the rear deck would have been appreciated. Assembly begins with the suspension for the one-piece hull. The suspension arms are given four different numbers, but I could
see no difference between them. Rather than following the instructions and attaching the road wheels to the arms before mounting them on the hull, I attached the arms to the hull so I could leave the wheels off until after painting. The MBT70/KPz 70 was the first tank that allowed each suspension arm to be adjusted so the tank could “kneel” or “squat.” The kit allows you to replicate this posture by trimming the locating tabs off the arms so they can be mounted in other positions; there’s even an alignment tool on the A sprue to help true up the road wheels. I chickened out and built my suspension at rest, as it is in the museum. The rest of the hull went together quickly. Despite the instructions, it made more sense to install the rear plate (A17) before adding all the details. Compared with photos, the telephone box (A4, A5) on the rear panel seems a little too large. The turret also went together easily. I deviated from the instructions to add the lower plate to the turret before fitting all of the details. The crew hatches can be open or closed, but there’s nothing inside. The 20mm auto-cannon lack several details I saw in photos. You can build the cannon bay with the hatches open or closed. With assembly complete, I gave the entire vehicle a coat of Tamiya olive drab. I then added a little Tamiya desert yellow to lighten it up. I wasn’t looking for a heavily weathered vehicle. I just wanted to break up the large areas of solid color and accentuate some of the details. The decals were added after a coat of Vallejo clear gloss and settled nicely with some Micro Sol decal solution. I made the white cross on the rear plate with white stripe decals from my spares box. After a coat of Vallejo clear flat, I applied a flat black enamel pin wash to deepen details. I lightly dry-brushed the
model with olive drab enamel lightened with yellow ochre artist’s oil to add highlights. The DS tracks fit perfectly. Take care, though: the front idler attachment is very weak. I was a bit disappointed that the turret beacon wasn’t on the clear sprue, but once I painted Tamiya clear orange over a coat of Vallejo chrome it looked pretty good. It took only 16 hours to build my KPz 70, less than normal thanks to the DS tracks and simple one-color paint job. The finished model matched dimensions posted on Wikipedia. Certainly, the kit fills an important gap modern armor collections. Now, will Dragon bring out a U.S. version? Only time will tell. – John Plzak
Kit: No. 3550 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Dragon, www.dragon-models.com Price: $86.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 287 parts (4 vinyl), decals Pros: Clear parts for sensors and lights; color pamphlet with walkaround detail photos; one-piece gun barrel Cons: No photoetched-metal mesh for engine screens; only the German KPz 70 version can be built; 20mm auto-cannon lacks details; telephone box on rear plate looks too big
Zvezda Airbus A320
irliner enthusiasts, prepare to be wowed! With excellent tooling and detail, Zvezda’s A320 includes: a flight deck interior and cabin entrance area at door 1L; optional extended or retracted flaps and slats; one set of landing gear struts for displaying the aircraft on its gear, and a second set with unloaded (extended) oleos for posing the aircraft in flight; closed gear
Kit: No. 7003 Scale: 1/144 Manufacturer: Zvezda, www.zvezda.org.ru Price: $29.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 139 parts, decals Pros: Great fit; great decals; nice options of posable parts, including flaps and slats, loaded and unloaded gear struts; cockpit and partial cabin interior included Cons: Instructions busy and a little confusing
56 FineScale Modeler December 2014
doors for displaying the model in clean configuration; and a stand if you choose an in-flight option. Two sets of engines are included: CFMs for this Aeroflot aircraft, and an IAE V2500 set that strongly suggests future issues of the kit. The busy, detailed instructions have main steps in numbered boxes, but also sidebars and substeps for other assemblies along the way. The wing assembly is a little confusing in the instructions, with Step 2 being partially repeated in Step 6. What look like four skinny slats (parts B22, B23, B24, and B25) are actually the wing leading edges; they must be installed first if you want to pose the slats extended. Surface detail is beautifully engraved but inconsistent in spots — the flaps have detail only on their upper surfaces, there are certain engraved details on only three of the four engine cowling halves, and the horizontal stabilizer mounting area on the right fuselage half doesn’t have the detail of its mate on the left half. All are minor problems, easily fixed. Sprue gates for the fuselage are mainly located on the belly, minimizing possible problems with the more visible upper fuselage seam. Cabin windows are supplied in four clear strips to be glued to the inside of the fuselage halves prior to joining them, and the clear part for the flight deck is a
drop-on part comprising the upper fuselage structure as well as the cockpit windows. I elected to omit the cabin windows, filling the openings with clear glue after the model was finished. After fairing in the flight deck clear part, I found the plastic wouldn’t polish out like other kits’ styrene. So, I ended up with cloudy cockpit windows. Brushing them with Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish helped. The parts fit precisely and the build went smoothly. There’s little to say, except that I’d recommend building up the extended flaps and underwing canoe fairings at the same time to ensure their symmetry. I disagreed with the instructions specifying white for sections of the flying surfaces; photos on the Internet show they are light gray instead. The decals are terrific! They provide for three different Aeroflot aircraft, all with Bermuda registration codes. The conspicuity outlines for doors 1L and 1R are given as silver but should be blue; I replaced mine with blue decal scraps. Great kit! Zvezda set the bar high with this one. I spent 20 hours completing mine. A note on the box says “Ultimate Kit.” I’m not sure about that, but I’ll look forward to seeing how they top it. – Walt Fink
HobbyBoss Renault R35
obbyBoss has released its kit of this important French tank with linkand-length tracks, and posable hatches for the driver, commander, and engine compartment that reveal interiors featuring the engine plus driver and commander stations. Markings are for a French tank and a German capture. I built the engine up and painted it with Tamiya semigloss black. The instructions show two small parts but not their part numbers; looking on the C sprue, I found they were parts C1 and C68. I painted the drivetrain Tamiya NATO brown (XF-68). No fan belts were included. Without references for the radiator or the squirrel-cage fan, I painted them semigloss black. The intake manifold and duct work was painted silver; the cover, light gray. Before I assembled the interior, I painted the side walls Testors camouflage white; the floor is Tamiya NATO green (XF-67). After assembling the driver’s seat, I painted it Tamiya khaki (XF-49) with a semigloss black backing. There are no decals for the instrument panel; it’s up to you to paint or look to the aftermarket (or your spares) for decals. The suspension was a challenge. The photoetched metal is very stiff (it appears
to be two layers). I bent parts PE-4 over an artist’s pencil, then folded up the sides; there was no form to check them for accuracy. I super glued them to parts D18 and D27. After curing, they were super glued to the other halves. Because of the poor gluing surfaces, these suspension parts are fragile. I painted the tracks with Floquil mud and dragged a silver pencil over the track cleats. Installing pioneer tools on the hull was a bit tricky; locators did not want to go through the holes, and the shovel was a bit oversized. The turret presented no problems. The main armament, the 37mm cannon, does not have a breech. Considering the commander’s hatch can be open and the breech can be seen, I’m surprised it was not included. Three hooks on the commander’s hatch (parts E9, found in a corrected parts map on an enclosed errata sheet) were too tiny to pick up with any of my tweezers, and one went to a galaxy far, far away. I suggest leaving them on the sprue and cutting them apart from one another; use the piece of sprue to hold each part in place to glue. I built the R35 in French markings, painting the camouflage with Tamiya German field gray (XF- 65) and red brown
(XF-64) and applying Tamiya weathering powders. I took 38 hours to build this kit, spending half of that time on the suspension. As complicated as that was, I can only recommend the kit to experienced modelers. – Tom Foti
Kit: No. 83806 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: HobbyBoss, www.hobbyboss.com Price: $54.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 426 parts, (52 photoetched metal plus metal barrel), decals Pros: Good fits, high level of detail Cons: Instruction errors, missing color callouts, complicated running-gear assembly, stiff photoetched metal, no gun breech
Trumpeter Westland Whirlwind
he British Westland Whirlwind was a twin-engine heavy fighter used sporadically early in World War II. Problems with its Rolls-Royce Peregrine engines caused production delays, and it was withdrawn from service in 1943. Trumpeter’s newly tooled Whirlwind is molded in light gray styrene with subtly
Kit: No. 2890 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: Trumpeter, www.trumpeter-china.com Price: $49.95 Comments: Injection-molded, 72 parts, decals Pros: Clear, easy-to-read instructions; good fits; easy build Cons: Troublesome decals: thin and hard to position; instrument panel did not match the plastic part; colors look too bright
58 FineScale Modeler December 2014
engraved panel lines and rivets. Clear parts are packaged separately, then wrapped in foam. I have to say, when it comes to clear parts, Trumpeter does an outstanding job: crystal-clear plastic, precise framing, and protective packaging. The cockpit detail is OK. The side consoles are present, though lacking surface detail. Same goes for the instrument panel: raised detail for the switches, but all the dials are simple, blank depressions. There is an instrument-panel decal, but the decal art doesn’t match the engraving. It’s almost like a decal from another kit. The main wheel wells have sufficient structural ribbing, but advanced modelers might want to add some piping to spice them up. However, the doors for the retractable tail wheel were molded as part of the fuselage halves; they’re thick, overscale, and lack detail. The eight-page instruction booklet is really easy to follow and includes callouts for Gunze Sangyo paints. Also included is a two-sided four-view color painting sheet showing the two versions for which there are decals. I found the colors for some of the markings a little too vivid, especially the bright yellow in the Royal Air Force roundels.
Construction is straightforward; just follow the instructions. This was one of the best-fitting Trumpeter kits I have built. Everything went together almost perfectly, with only a tiny bit of filler on the back of the lower-wing fuselage seam. I polished the rest of the seams with a nail buffer. I used Tamiya acrylics for the threecolor camouflage. The kit’s instructions for the fuselage band and propeller spinners specify an orange yellow (Gunze Sangyo H-24), but it really should be British sky. After a coat of Gunze Sangyo Mr. Super Clear gloss, I gave the engraved panel lines and rivets a black sludge wash. When that had dried, I applied decals. They were thin and difficult to move around once they were on the model. Try to put them where you want them on the first try. I did use some decal-setting solution, Gunze Sangyo Mr. Mark Softer, on the black-and-white checkers on the upper tail’s fairing, and they responded well. A final coat of Testors flat clear lacquer completed my Whirlwind. The finished model turned out nicely. It was an easy and enjoyable build that took less than 10 hours. I would recommend it for all modelers, from beginners on up. – Jon Hergenrother
Revell Germany SpaceShipTwo & WhiteKnightTwo
hen I was a kid back in the 1950s, scientific forecasters boldly predicted commercial space travel would be common by the year 2000. That hasn’t quite panned out, but Virgin Galactic and The Spaceship Co. are getting us closer with their unconventional aircraft and space vehicles. These two craft are the subject of a Revell 1/144 scale release. Molded in white plastic, the model clearly depicts the composite material construction of the actual aircraft, with recessed panel lines only for the flying surfaces, doors, and hatches. For a 1/144 scale model, there is a lot going on: two fuselages with a long, narrow wing supporting four engines; lots of clear parts in close proximity to seams; and a spacecraft slung under the wing. Construction is straightforward. But, given the vehicle’s configuration, I modified the build sequence to accommodate seamfilling, painting, and applying decals. First of all, I didn’t use the clear parts that came with the kit. They looked fine, but I thought coating the portholes and windscreens with clear filler would be easier and negate the need to mask those areas for painting. I used Gator Acrylic Hobby Glue to cover these openings during painting. After assembling the wing, the two fuselages, and the spacecraft, which I essentially completed as a separate model, I painted those parts. (By the way, you can build the two craft separately if you so desire.)
White can be a challenge to paint; it certainly was here. I primed the model with Alclad II gray primer, then sprayed it with Tamiya gloss white. Coverage wasn’t what I wanted, so I switched to a rattle can of Tamiya TS-26 pure white. Engine assembly was next. My review sample was problematic, as the exhaust and cowling pieces didn’t quite match the contours of the center section. Next, I glued all these subassemblies together by first attaching the fuselages to the wing. Fit is pretty good, but you’ll need to add filler around these seams. After sanding, I touched up flaws with Tamiya XF-1 flat white and more clear gloss. Because the engines are so close to the fuselages, I applied decals I thought would be difficult to reach later with the engines in place. Then I added the engines and filled the joints between the pylons and the wing. Again, I repainted sanded areas with flat white and gloss. This process sounds cumbersome, but I think it’s the easiest way to go. With the subassemblies situated, painted, and decaled, I removed the white glue from the windows and applied 5-minute epoxy with a toothpick. With a bit of manipulation and holding the model upside down for a minute or so, the epoxy left smooth windows and windscreens. Finally, I added landing gear, gear doors, and antennas. There is a long data boom on the outboard side of the right fuselage that is not included in the kit.
By the way, the decals were fabulous. I had not used Syhart decals before, but they worked perfectly. Unfortunately, the most colorful markings are on the bottom of the model. The model took me about 33 hours and looks to-scale. Despite some fit problems, anyone with a couple of kits to their credit should be able to build a neat-looking replica of these two interesting vehicles. It will definitely add something unique to your aircraft collection. – Phil Pignataro
Kit: No. 04842 Scale: 1/144 Manufacturer: Revell Germany, www.revell.de Price: $28.95 Comments: Injection-molded, 123 parts, decals Pros: Beautiful decals; optional stand and parts to display the two craft in flight or on the ground, and as one unit or two separate aircraft Cons: Cowling and exhausts didn’t quite match the profile of the engine body
Riich Universal Carrier Mk.II
ans of British armor are enjoying a recent flurry of new releases. Riich.Models has done its part with Universal Carriers, first a Mk.I and now a Mk.II. The latter adds a towing hitch. The rear compartment is rearranged to increase space, and steps are added to the hull sides for easier access to the rear.
The model is crisply molded in light gray plastic with only minor flash and easyto-repair knockout marks. Fit is good with very little filler needed. The 38-step directions show photoetched-metal parts in blue, but metalfolding directions are vague at times. A color sheet with seven choices of marking is
A Ford flathead V8 powered the Universal Carrier. Riich provides a detailed rendition of the engine, but it’s virtually invisible in the finished model. 60 FineScale Modeler December 2014
provided. Some detail colors are called out, but you are left wanting more; reference photos were helpful. Be sure to fill all holes and remove all tabs according to the instructions. Assembly starts with the engine, detailed with photoetched-metal parts for brackets and the radiator fan. However, the engine cover hides all that completely — I left it open to show it off. If you choose to use the engine, a small square on its bottom needs to be modified to fit in the hull. Also, mount the air canister (parts G5 and G6) on the rear wall of the engine compartment; glue part G36 to the canister after the engine is mounted. The lower hull comprises multiple panels that fit square with no filler. I added the rear hull plate (L1) and firewall (L2) to ensure the lower hull remained true. I left off the gas tanks and boxes that fill the interior for easier painting. The front seats are complicated work in a tight space. Photoetched-metal supports for the passenger seat are weak; I replaced them with styrene strip. I assembled the front hull as in Step 26, but left it off until the interior was painted. Separate decals are supplied for each gauge. After the hull sides are on, you can glue the engine cover in place; make sure the radiator is mounted, though, or you will have a
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hollow space visible from the driver’s compartment. I left the rear housing that covers the mufflers and rear axle (Step 35) separate. After painting, the fit needed no glue. In Step 6, I added the rear axle to the hull first, then added parts D25 and D26. Take care gluing the axle halves to allow parts B23 to rotate. I broke one off trying to loosen it after accidentally gluing it. Suspension assembly comes early in the build. I followed this sequence, figuring that it would ease joining the small linkand-length track. The springs on the suspension are represented by inserting a small spring into a larger spring. This gives them
Kit: No. 35027 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Riich.Models, www.riichmodel.com Price: $58.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 601 parts (129 photoetched metal, 32 springs, 8 brass rods, 1 thread, 1 chain), decals Pros: Good fits; high level of detail Cons: Complicated photoetched-metal assemblies; weak suspension; some instructions are vague
realistic heft. You have a choice of a plasticspring guide rod or making one out of brass rod and photoetched metal. I chose the easy option and went with the plastic; you won’t see it anyway. Be sure the ribbed side of the wheels is on the inside of the vehicle. The two-wheel bogies are attached to the hull by a small pin; I broke each one off the hull multiple times, so I inserted a small brass rod into the hull and bogie to give the suspension the needed strength. Part Pa 9 is a photoetched-metal piece representing one of the mud scrapers in the drive sprocket; it was not formed on my photoetched-metal sheet. Despite seven sets of decals, all of them go on khaki drab. I primed with Vallejo UK bronze green; an overspray of LifeColor khaki olive drab provided highlights. AK Interactive satin sealed everything before I applied various filters and washes. The decals were strong enough to place without tearing, and they went down tight with no silvering. I painted the tracks with a 1:1 mix of Tamiya flat black and red brown, brushed rust washes, and finished them off with AK Interactive polished steel. This is a challenging build for experienced modelers. Having a complete interior, you must study the directions and plan carefully to make painting stress-free. Many of the photoetched-metal pieces have complicated bends not shown clearly in the directions. Consequently, it took a whopping 52 hours to build a model not much bigger than a jeep. Still, it all results in a stunning model. – Mike Scharf
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We carry a huge inventory of plastic model kits from around the world! Full Line of Detailing Accessories. Airline models, Decals, Books, Promos, Die Cast Collectibles, Historical & RPG Games & Miniatures, Airbrushes & parts. Large Paint and Tool inventory. Full line R/C department. We ship worldwide. COLPAR’S HobbyTown USA To order call: 1-800-876-0414 1915 S. Havana St. For information: 303-341-0414 Aurora, Co 80014
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ARIZONA • Tempe
Specializing in plastic models & accessories. Large selection of plastics, after-market detail accessories, decals, paint, books & tools. Full-line hobby shop. www.thehobbydepot.com
216 W. Southern Ave.
ARKANSAS • Jacksonville
Headquarters for scale hobbies. Models; N-HO-O-G trains; gaming; tools; paints, etc. Discounts & special orders. Open 10-6, closed Sundays and Wednesdays www.railandsprue.com
RAIL & SPRUE HOBBIES
1200 John Harden Dr.
CALIFORNIA • Burbank
Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem Visit us in person or online www.houseofhobbies.com Secure online ordering
BURBANK’S HOUSE OF HOBBIES
911 S. Victory Blvd.
CALIFORNIA • Canoga Park
Kits, plastic & wood, Slot cars & toys. Rockets, paint, glue and tools. Trains from Z to O. Mon-Tues 10-5, Wed-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-5, closed Sun & Big Holidays. www.scalemodelstuff.com
SCALE MODEL STUFF
7259 Canoga Avenue
CALIFORNIA • Garden Grove
Rewards program for 10% back on purchases. Plastic aircraft, armor, ships, cars, decals, books, paints, tools, miniatures war-games. Mon-Thur 11-8, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 10-midnight, Sun 11-7 www.brookhursthobbies.com
12188 Brookhurst St.
CALIFORNIA • La Mirada
CALIFORNIA • Orange
New Products, Old Kits & Great Service! Everything you need to build plastic models Armor, Aircraft, Ships, Cars, SciFi and more. M-F 10:30-6pm, Sat 10:30-5pm, Sun 12-5pm www.militaryhobbiesonline.com
830 E. Lincoln Ave.
CALIFORNIA • San Mateo
COLORADO • Aurora
Large inventory of models from the world over! Detailing accessories, research publications, games, trains, R/C, tools, and supplies. Easy access from D.I.A. http://www.colpar.com
1915 S. Havana St.
CONNECTICUT • Cos Cob
ANN’S HOBBY CENTER
CONNECTICUT • East Windsor
Old & rare kits, largest selection in military kits, rockets, trains, & cars. Exit 45 off I-91. 10 minutes from Bradley Air Museum. www.craftechobbies.com or Visit us on Facebook.
144 North Road
CONNECTICUT • Milford
Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train sets. Open Tue-Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5. www.hqhobbiesonline.com
394 New Haven Ave., Unit 1
FLORIDA • Ft. Myers
Come visit our new store! Plastic modeling kits. Paint, tools, scenery, & accessories. Scale model railroads & rockets. Mon-Sat 10:00am-6:00pm. Closed Sunday.
METRO TRAINS & HOBBIES
12951 Metro Parkway
GEORGIA • Blue Ridge
Huge selection of model kits & accessories. Ships, Armor, Aircraft, Figures, Cars and more. Visit: www.freetimehobbies.com for complete listing. Monday to Friday 10-6, Saturday 10-2
FREE TIME HOBBIES
4167 East First St. (by KFC)
HAWAII • Kailua, Oahu
Wide selection of plastic model kits, paint, books, magazines and tools. Located on the beautiful windward side, a scenic 20 minute drive from Honolulu. Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-2
767 Kailua Road
MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston) Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, figure kits, games, etc. Shipping available. Info: hobbybunker.com
HOBBY BUNKER, INC.
33 Exchange St.
MASSACHUSETTS • Marlboro
Stop in ONCE! A customer for LIFE! We have 10,000+ models, tools, supplies, 23 paint lines, 50 model mags, 5,000+ books. Est. in 1973, open 7 days, Th & Fr 'til 8. Visit us @ www.sparetimeshop.com
THE SPARE TIME SHOP
Rt 20E Main, Post Rd. Plaza
NEW JERSEY • Kenvil Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details!
DEAN’S HOBBY STOP
MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit)
New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more. www.michtoy.com
MICHIGAN TOY SOLDIER & FIGURE CO.
1400 E. 11 Mile Rd.
Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts, tools. Open 7 days
AAA HOBBIES & CRAFTS
706 N. White Horse Pike
MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit
Your single stop model building shop. Michigan’s largest selection of new and vintage kits in all genres plus everything needed to build them. Wed - Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5 Visit us on Facebook. www.modelcave.com
NEW HAMPSHIRE • Dover
SECTION 8 HOBBIES
2243 Seneca St.
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NEW YORK • Deer Park
Military oriented hobby shop. Armour, naval & aircraft models. Aftermarket products, dioramas and diorama products, books, mags, tools, paints, war videos & more. Call for hrs. www.alsandtoysoldiers.com
ALSAND TOY SOLDIERS
848 Long Island Ave.
Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies. Books and magazines.
MEN AT ARMS HOBBIES, INC.
134 Middle Country Rd.
NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum. Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits. Open 7 days.
JAN'S HOBBY SHOP, INC.
1435 Lexington Ave.
TEXAS • San Antonio
Scale modeling from beginner to expert. A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, figures, ships, & sci-fi. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10-6pm.
1029 Donaldson Ave.
Minutes from Dulles Airport & New Dulles Air & Space Museum, Udvar-Hazy Center. PLASTIC! PLASTIC! PLASTIC! Kits for aircraft - armor - ships - cars Daily 12-8; Sun 12-5. www.piperhobby.com
13892 Metrotech Dr.
VIRGINIA • Newport News
Plastic model specialty shop. New and old kits, foreign, domestic, books, paints and other accessories. We also buy collections. www.dhcinc.com [email protected]
DENBIGH HOBBY CENTER, INC.
14351 Warwick Blvd.
OKLAHOMA • Owasso
Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint and aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor, ships, trains and sci-fi. Special orders welcome! Mon - Fri 10-7, Sat 11-6, Sun 1-5. Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com
TOP SHELF MODELS
119 S. Main St.
PENNSYLVANIA • Landisville (Lancaster) Large Selection New & Used Kits Military books, tools, paint, airbrushes Full line hobby shop open Tue - Thur 10-6, Fri 10-7, Sat 10-4 www.CoolTrains.com
COOLTRAINS TOYS & HOBBIES
106 W. Main Street
19332 60th Ave. W.
WASHINGTON • Seattle
Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models. Large selection of detail parts. Largest selection of plastic models in South Seattle! www.skywaymodel.com
SKYWAY MODEL SHOP
12615 Renton Ave. South
CANADA–AB • Calgary
Complete full line hobby shop. Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon-Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5. 12024 SW Canyon Rd.
We are a full line hobby shop. Huge model selection. Gundam, supplies, tool, educational, kit, parts, kite, game. Huge selection, paint, train & R/C items. www.galaxyhobby.com
206 Graceland Blvd.
East Tennessee’s largest plastic model selection. 8,000 sq. ft. of hobbies & toys. Located in Knoxville’s premier shopping destination. Turkey Creek Area. Open 7 days a week.
HO & N, Lionel trains. Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies. Open 11am-6pm M-F, Sat. 10am-5pm www.gandgmodelshop.com
G & G MODEL SHOP
2522 Times Blvd.
M-A-L HOBBY SHOP
108 S. Lee Street
WASHINGTON • Lynwood
Great selection of model kits, accessories, detail parts, magazines, tools & paints. www.hobbylandstores.com
11145 Turkey Dr.
Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes. Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7. Sat 10:30-6. www.malhobby.com
VIRGINIA • Chantilly
NEW YORK • Middle Island
TEXAS • Houston
Your modeling skills will
TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)
WNY’s largest selection of models!!! We specialize in models. New, old, rare and vintage. Tons of detail and weathering products, paint, tools and so much more!
Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors #334 90 Washington St.
Call 1-888-558-1544, ext. 815 for more information.
NEW YORK • Buffalo
TENNESSEE • Knoxville
RUDY'S HOBBY & ART
35-16 30th Avenue
While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories. Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5. 4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103
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Car, Plane, Military, Models, Trains, Paints, Tools, Diecast. Art Supplies, Wood & Wood Models Open Wed., Thur., Fri., Sat. 11:00 to 6:30.
OREGON • Beaverton
TRAINS & THINGS HOBBIES
103 W. Michigan Avenue
NEW YORK • Astoria L.I.C.
Let your imagination run wild! Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, dollhouse miniatures, model railroading Z to G and more... 210 East Front St.
NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden)
We moved! Thousands of model kits from old Aurora to new releases. Mon 4pm-7pm, Tues - Fri 11:30am-5pm. Sat 11:30am-4:00pm E-mail: [email protected] 116 N. Washington Street
590 Rt. 46
OHIO • Columbus
NEVADA • Las Vegas
Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome. 405 E. Putnam Avenue
TIME MACHINE HOBBY
71 Hilliard St.
MICHIGAN • Traverse City
Your source for plastic models, die cast and all supplies needed to finish your latest model. Mon-Sat 9:30-6, Sun 11-5. www.talbotstoyland.com 445 South “B” Street
Largest hobby shop in NE. Military, cars, trucks, plastic models, diecast cars, trucks. Planes, RC planes, cars, trucks, slot cars, rockets, Breyer, Detailing supplies, games! Mon-Wed 10-6 Th-Fri 10-9 Sat-Sun 10-6
MICHIGAN • Owosso
Wide variety of plastic kits. Old Nascar Kits - please call. Mon - Sat 10-6. Closed Sunday. 14269 Imperial Hwy.
CONNECTICUT • Manchester
Specializing in R/C models and accessories, helicopters, planes, cars, trucks, boats, plastic, die-cast & model rockets. M T W F 9:30-6, Th 9:30-8 Sat. 9:30-5 www.modelland.com i[email protected]
MODEL LAND LTD
3409A 26 Ave. SW
CANADA–ON • Ottawa (Vanier) One of Canada's leading model shops. Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories. Free parking. On Parle Francais.
HOBBY HOUSE, LTD
80 Montreal Rd.
CANADA–ON • Toronto Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & finishing products. Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections. www.wheelswingshobbies.com
WHEELS AND WINGS
1880 Danforth Ave.
SINGAPORE • Singapore
Old kits & latest releases. Good selection of unusual model kits & accessories. We stock electric trains & slot cars. Open 7 days, 1pm-8pm. In the Katong Shopping Centre. www.hobbybounties.com
HOBBY BOUNTIES & MORGAN HOBBYCRAFT
865 Mountbatten Rd #02-91/92
SPECIAL AIR CRAFT ISSUE September 2014 www.FineScale.com Reviewed: Airﬁ x’s RAF Lightning
HOW TO BUI LD YOUR FIRS T
Rogério “Rato” Marczak’s 1/72 scale P-40B diorama – p.24 Tomahawk
PLUS Add realistic battle dama ge p. 40 Model a one-o f-a-kind 727 p. 38 Simulate wood grain with paint p. 36
OUR EXPERTS BUILD AND REVIEW 10 ALL-NEW KITS
Dragon’s M103A1: does it go together? How – p.58
No matter what you like to model, it’s in FineScale Modeler.
Go to www.FineScale.com December 2014
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Final Details Compiled by Mark Hembree
Who, what, where, when, and why of your modeling
Lately, I’ve been on a WWII kick, later in the war (1944-45), European theater, mostly German armor and aircraft. I’m always talking to my grandfather about the war. He was in the European theater, so all the stories are from there. My first armor kit was a German SdKfz 234/2. I was fascinated with German equipment from then on! I’m finishing a Do 335, SdKfz 250, and a Kettenkrad now, and I have plans for a V2 rocket, Nashorn, Ju 87 Stuka, and a Panther. – Bobby Gianino St. Albans, Vt. I worked for Capital Airlines from 1950 until the Capital/ United merger. I have built Capital’s flown fleet and have gone into the “almost bought” aircraft. Finding the aircraft wasn’t a problem. But locating the decals was quite an adventure. The DC-3 had Eastern decals; found a man in Dallas who made the Capital decals.
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The DC-4 had Pan Am decals; I found Capital decals in Canada. The Connie was TWA; found Capital decals in California. The Viscount and DC-6 were no problem. Then I went into the “almost” aircraft, like the Martin 202 (can’t afford it) and the Convair 880, Comet IV-4, and Electra (all with decals by Vintage Flyer). The Bristol Britannia actually came with Capital decals. – Dutch Lepeska Melbourne, Fla. I enjoy 1/72 scale aircraft and 1/35 scale armor and modeling the smaller air forces and armies of the world, which can include Manchukuo or the Russian Army of Liberation, or more modern ones, like Bosnia and Tajikistan, to name a few. – Jason Green Milton, Fla. I build mostly WWII armor, primarily German. There were so many different variations and modifications of the various panzer designs that you can fill every shelf in the house and not repeat yourself. Add in scout cars, transports, service vehicles
66 FineScale Modeler December 2014
Library of Congress/U.S. Army Air Forces
Aspiring journalists are taught that good reporting provides the “five Ws” — who, what, where, when, and sometimes why or how. In our electronic newsletter and through the forum at www.FineScale.com, we asked readers to tell us the five Ws of their models. World War II? Europe? The Pacific? The Eastern Front? If not, what war or period? And, if not military, what subjects and eras? Not surprisingly, readers had plenty to tell us about what they build.
and such, and you have a lifetime of modeling! – Barry Harmon California City, Calif. Every ship and boat has a story to tell. There’s no better way to learn than by researching and building a model. I especially like sailing ships. I’m a semiretired history professor who specialized in naval history; I got interested in that subject largely through modeling. (I built my first at 5, and read my first book about ships shortly thereafter.) Sailing ships tell the story of human history through the early 20th century. To my eye, nothing beats the sight of a well-executed accurate model of an 18th-century warship or a 19th-century clipper. But I enjoy modern warships and merchantmen as well. I hope to spend the rest of my days working on ship models. – John Tilley Greenville, N.C.
Most of my stash is WWII aircraft and armor; I lean hard towards the European Axis side. I love searching for kits that are really new or way out of production — finding a rare kit is exciting. I love to build because it allows my mind to concentrate and focus … it helps me prioritize, not only the build but life in general. And if I’m building, I’m not spending (keeps the Mrs. happy). – Perry Stevens Deer Park, Wash. … any kind of ship, from all over the world’s oceans and rivers, from 1930-2014. Many are scratchbuilt or heavily modified (especially the civilian ones) from styrene and HO model railroad supplies. After much research, I generate a set of plans and begin. Sometimes it’s a matter of weeks, sometimes months, or even years. – G.J.Geracci New Braunfels,Texas
ho better than MRC-Academy to develop a 1/35 replica of the Navy’s MH-60S (#12120)? Our experience with the AH60L “DAP”, MH60G and the UH60L, combined with our passion for precision, has resulted in a remarkable kit. The new, Navy-style parts and incredible detail deliver a fresh modeling experience. To give you a taste, here’s a brief list of some of the features created by the more than 500 parts. Ź Navy-style pilot mirrors, doors and windows Ź Navy-style main rotor head and blades depicting fold-
ing rotor blade grips*
Ź %IGHTÏ(ELLlREÏMISSILESÏWITHÏCLEARÏTARGETÏLENSESÏANDÏTWO Ï
19-shot rocket pods
Ź Extended landing gear sponsons
Ź Folding tail stabilizer*
Ź Center console with instruments
Ź Fully detailed jet engine
Ź Cargo compartment with troop seats
Ź FLIR turret and nose mount
Ź Two M2 .50 cal machine guns and ammo canister
Ź “All glass” instrument panel, glare shield and 4 LCDs
Ź Doors for pilot, gunner and cabin are positionable
hile major features are accurately rendered, the little details have not been short-changed, LIKEÏTHEÏmAWLESSÏ pilot seats; FLIR controls; rotor brake handle; infrared missile jammer; clear position light lenses; rescue hoist; wind screen wipers; engine exhaust infrared reduction system; interior auxiliary fuel tank; decal sheet with choice of three squadrons… and so much more. Now available at your favorite hobby shop. *Kit’s rotor blades, tail and tail stabilizer do not fold and are molded in the flight position