AIR Modeller 64

MENGAIRMODELLERFEBRUARY/MARCH2016 FEB/MARCH 2016 • £6.50 UK $15.99 www.mengafvmodeller.com 64 SCRATCHBUILDING THE HEAVY BOMBER IN 1:48 1 Meng AIR Mode...

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FEBRUARY / MARCH 2016

MENG AIR MODELLER

64

FEB/MARCH 2016 • £6.50 UK $15.99

www.mengafvmodeller.com

SCRATCHBUILDING THE HEAVY BOMBER IN 1:48

CONTENTS 2

Short Stirling Part One Megas Tsonos begins his multipart 1:48 scratchbuilt project to build the British heavy bomber.

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F-16C Block 50 Pascal Klasen reworks the 1:48 Tamiya kit.

20

Ki-61 Hien Michel Gruson describes his bare metal Hien using Hasegawa’s 1:32 kit.

28

Henschel Hs 123A The Montex 1:32 resin kit modelled by Zdenek Sebesta.

38

Hurricane Mk.1 Early Charles Whall builds the Pacific Coast Models 1:32 kit

48

Air Born New releases.

58

Mig-21 François-Regis Binder superdetails the 1:72 Zvezda kit.

Meng AIR Modeller is published Bimonthly by AFV Modeller ltd Old Stables East Moor Stannington Northumberland NE61 6ES Tel: 01670 823648 Fax: 01670 820274 email: [email protected] Editor and Designer: David Parker Deputy Editor: Mark Neville Sales Director: Keith Smith

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Modeller ltd. cannot be liable in any way for errors or ommissions.

1

SHORT STIRLING

T

he Short Stirling is one of the esoteric subjects of RAF

Bomber Command aircraft. One needs to go ‘back in time’ in order to fully understand the true impact this aeroplane made to the RAF, to British industry and to the British public in general, as a ‘mighty, war-winning machine’, when it went into service. The fact that due to Air Ministry restrictive specifications, it failed in its primary role of the long range bomber, and its ungainly looks, have contributed to the Short Stirling unfortunately becoming, over the years, a neglected subject. It its also a complicated subject and one that it is not easy to research. If you

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wanted to build a model of it in 1:48 you will have to rely on the Sanger vacform kit, and its accuracy both in shape and dimensions leaves much to be desired. The finished product will, at best, look ‘like a Stirling’, suitable only for filling the gap in some projected RAF bombers collection. The approach of a scratchbuilt model of a Stirling is a more complicated one, but can lead to a better result as one is free to do away with the restraints a vacform kit usually imposes. You only have to follow the plans, but which plans?

part one MEGAS TSONOS SCRATCHBUILDS THE HEAVY BOMBER IN 1:48

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Plans or Numbers? At the start of this project, I came across two sets of plans for the Short Stirling, one as published in “Warpaint” (issue No15) monograph, made by Mr. John Bishop, and the one that was kindly provided by Mr. Gordon Leith, Curator, Department Of Research And Information Services, Royal Air Force Museum, drawn in 1:48 by Mr. John Sizer. The Warpaint plans are in this modellers’ opinion, grossly inadequate for a model in 1:48, their thick outlines when up-scaled wreaking havoc with measurements, being up to 1/16’’ thick! Additionally, some “hidden” dimensions were alarmingly wrong, a striking example being the wheel track which is wider by 5/16’’ than normal (in 1:48), taking with it the entire landing gear, inner nacelles and propellers and “pushing” them outward to the wingtips! The propellers themselves are drawn smaller in diameter (3’’), instead of 3 3/8’’, a fact that distorts the appearance of the finished model.

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The J. Sizer plans on the other hand are more detailed, their major advantage being that important dimensions and distances from given points, (for example the distance of the outer nacelles from the aeroplane centre line, or the correct wheel track) refer to the real thing; I only had to divide by 48 and use them. As the plans were already drawn in 1/48, I could check them in relation to my calculations and thus be sure of the task ahead. Consequently the “Warpaint” plans were put aside in favour of the J. Sizer ones, their use being only of secondary if not, cosmetic, importance… I had always to keep in mind that in both sets of plans, some curves and shapes (for example, gun turrets) are incorrect and should be thoroughly checked against photographs, and other sources before being modelled. I chose to work primarily with as many of the real Stirling dimensions as I could find, and keep the on-the-drawing personal measurements that most of us modellers usually do, a secondary option.

SHORT STIRLING

Requirements, Materials and Outside Help Every scratchbuilt model tends to be usually heavier than the injection moulded kits we are more familiar with. I expected that the Stirling would be extra heavy when finished, and reinforcing during construction was a prerequisite, which added weight to that already envisaged. The model had to be rigid while at the same time providing opened bomb bays in the wings and fuselage, so as to justify its role as a model of a bomber aeroplane. A huge landing gear was needed to support everything during the construction and absorb all the inevitable mishandlings, whilst itself and its associated wheel wells needed to be superdetailed. The fuselage should be strong enough to withstand all stresses during the construction, nevertheless thin enough to allow for interior detailing to be added, as and where necessary. The principle requirements as mentioned above pointed towards a multi-media construction; fibreglass, metal and resin being the basic materials I used except styrene. Although the use of fiberglass for the fuselage construction was within my modelling capabilities, if it was not for the expertise of Mr. Michael

Skoularikos ([email protected]), a friend and fellow modeller who transformed my drawings of the bomb bays and wing framework into photo-etched parts, the model may not have materialized in the quality seen here! Brass in photo etched form was used to construct the fuselage bomb bay, the foundation of the whole construction. Likewise, the wings where formed around two “boxes” of brass extending from the wing roots up to the outer engine nacelles. Additional friendly help, came in the form of a set of finely and accurately made resin moulds, carefully cast by Mr. Yiannis Sagiadinos of Y.S. Masterpieces ([email protected]), who took care of propellers, engine cowls, exhausts, main wheels, and everything that had to be duplicated in resin for more than one example. In the Illustration above one can see the different materials used and their locations in the Stirling model. Thus the model was made really heavy but extra strong at the same time, ensuring a construction without setbacks and a long life in the showcase.

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WHICH STIRLING? A unique subject like this necessitated some additional thinking. I had to come to a decision as to what mark of the Short Stirling I should build so as to focus on the special demands of the construction ahead. I concluded that only a very early production Stirling could combine technical interest (always among my favourite interests in this hobby) with an attractive finish, which the early-war bombers usually wore. An anonymous plane (aces and ace-planes are not my cup of tea), but one that actually saw the

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war out was N6004. This aircraft was the fifth production machine to come out of the Short Bros. factory at Belfast. As the story goes, this was a Stirling Mk.I series I aircraft which had not yet been fitted with a mid-upper turret; the Nash and Thompson Type FN7 turret was fitted on the 81st and subsequent bombers. Additionally, the first ten bombers from Belfast differed from subsequent in having de-icer boots installed (as written in p.43 of Michael J.F. Bowyer’s book ‘The Stirling Bomber’), N6004 being one of them. N6004 went to war (as well as being a type-training machine simultaneously) initially with No 7 Squadron on 24/3/1941, soon to be allocated to No XV Squadron which was re-established with the new bomber type on 10/4/1941. It was repainted in the Squadron codes as LS-F ; I tracked down actually eleven replacement Stirlings, coded as ‘F’ until the type’s withdrawal from No XV Squadron service. N6004 had an undercarriage collapse during a landing overshoot in Wyton aerodrome on 12/6/1941. She was repaired on site and continued flying in secondary duties; she was replaced by a new ‘F’, N6086, the famous

‘McRobert’s Reply’. On 23/12/1942 the bomber went for a major overhaul at Sebro, the Short Bros. Repair Organisation, in Cambridge where it was converted to a Mk.III; it was re-engined and most probably fitted with a the Nash and Thompson Type FN50 mid-upper turret, as was the case with the older machines being repaired after 7 August 1942. Looking good once again, N6004 flew until the end of the war though not on bombing operations as the type was steadily withdrawn from the bombing role. It was struck off charge on 13/9/1946 as obsolete. This is not the end of the story though, as 48 years later a section of the fuselage of N6004 which was used as an allotment shed, was salvaged by the Cotswold Aviation Restoration Group, operated from RAF Innsworth, and transported to Medway Heritage Trust at Chatham Dockyard Leisure Centre, to form part of a future Short Brothers Museum. Fascinated by its unsung longlife story I decided in favour of N6004 as my chosen subject.

the empennage

The whole project started with the tail surfaces. First, the horizontal stabilizers were crafted as a single unit, thus providing rigidity against any damage arising during the construction. Thick black solid plasticard was used as a core, its horizontal reference line drawn in red on the sides.

The correct aerofoil shape [RAF 30 (mod) in the case of the Short Stirling] was achieved by additional shaping and thinning and using the red line that was previously drawn as a reference.

The horizontal stabilizers were thinned down to the aerofoil shape, and more layers of plasticard were added where the aerofoil was thickest. Using laminations is always a good technique as a protection against bending.

Both elevators were cut away; the remaining surfaces were given a coat of Mr. Hobby Mr.Surfacer #500 and scribed. In the case of the Stirling, the stringers were U-shaped, a fact that dictates that most rivet lines are actually twin and must be reproduced twice for every single stringer. This is a lot more prominent at the fuselage and mainplanes as we will soon see.

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The elevators previously removed were worked at this point, and I gave them their leading edge curve by sanding. I sprayed with Mr. Hobby Mr.Surfacer 500 for a start. Then I masked the canvas covered surfaces leaving only the rib tape areas and the leading edges unmasked. I sprayed a generous amount of Mr Surfacer 500 and thus created the rib tapes that were applied over the elevator ribs to conceal the stitching of the canvas and protect it from wear during its service life. As the canvas stayed flat on the ribs, I did not considered appropriate to give it the “usual” (and erroneous in this case) wavy look.

Fine sanding of the elevators (seen here a little after removing the masks), their surfaces made smooth and prepared for installation that was to follow after shaping the fuselage.

Next in line came the vertical fin. I used the Sanger kit part as I considered it was well shaped and, apart from the removal of the rudder and the rescribing that was to follow, it could be easily worked to a good standard.

Being of the same aerofoil type as the elevators (RAF 30 mod.) the surface was scribed in quite the same way as the horizontal fins, while…

...both parts were detailed with small strips of thin lead foil to simulate the canvas tapes which covered the gaps between the fuselage projections that actually formed the aerofoil roots, and the surfaces themselves on the real aeroplane.

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Then the whole process was repeated to create the rib tape detail. Like the elevators, the ribs were first drawn with a pencil,

The rudder was replaced by a block of black plasticard appropriately shaped, and put against the vertical fin so as to check the fitting of both parts.

… the surfaces masked over and the whole was given a spraying, again with Mr.Surfacer 500.

I peeled off the masking tapes and….

The vertical fin was exhaustively checked for symmetry along its own vertical axis.

…the resulting rib tapes were sanded gently so as to be visible only enough for drybrushing, following the painting of the model.

The leading edge de-icer boots were made in the same way as the control surfaces rib tapes, and…

…the work on the vertical fin was completed with the addition of the rudder hinge points and the detailing of the surrounding area, using Archer Fine Transfers rivet details (set #88014), and spare photo-etched parts. …as well as in profile, so when cemented in place, it would act as a jig for the correct positioning of the model’s subassemblies soon to be built.

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the fuselage The prerequisite concerning the construction of a fuselage of

I used fine fiberglass for the fuselage shell which offered great

some length, is usually trying to avoid twisting along its

resistance against any bending or twisting loads while at the

longitudinal axis. If this is allowed to happen, then the wings can

same time allowed for interior detail to be added as it was extra

be cemented at an angle in relation to the tail surfaces, thus

thin and within scale limits.

causing misalignments, and loss of symmetry. The extra long

Additionally, the bomb bay was made of brass, a fact which

Stirling fuselage was prone to twisting more than any other,

contributed to the strength gained and unfortunately, the model’s

except perhaps, the B-29!

weight escalation.

It all started with a piece of Blue Dow Styrofoam-A which was roughly cut to the fuselage general dimensions and shape. The material is soft enough and can be easily sanded to any desirable shape, the Stirling’s fuselage being a relatively easy one.

I checked the dimensions on a fine-lined cutting mat, and I cleaned the Styrofoam fuselage core thoroughly, in preparation for the fiberglass wrapping. There should be no residues from the sanding process. The foam was sanded to a very smooth appearance; one has to be careful though, as the primary shape can easily be oversanded.

The fiberglass was loosely wrapped around the fuselage core and a line of cut was drawn where the wrapping was complete. The excess fiberglass was cut with the use of a brand new #11 blade, and removed. Washing hands meticulously, or wearing gloves, is absolutely necessary during the whole process.

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I smeared the Styrofoam fuselage with 15-minute mid-cure epoxy (I found Bob Smith Industries of USA to be a perfectly acceptable epoxy for the job), and applied the fiberglass over, taking care to see the glue oozing through the fibers. I smoothed with gloved fingers wet with a soap and water solution. I had only seven minutes for the whole process before it cured but I found the time adequate enough.

I left to cure. I also made limited use of the room’s heating as it accelerated the curing process, always within the limits described in the product instructions.

Within the hour, the end result was ready for sanding to something closer to the model’s fuselage. Wearing a suitable mask and gloves, I proceeded in sanding the excess epoxy, using a wooden surface onto which I attached with double-sided tape two bands of #80 grade sanding paper. As the Stirling fuselage is mostly straight-lined, this helped to make this a quick procedure.

The exterior surface was covered in thin polyester fiberglass putty which was used to seal any fiber texture that was revealed during the sanding process, and contribute to an additionally hard surface without adding to the fuselage thickness. As it is a product that really smells, all work was done outdoors,

including the sanding of it. A first layer of Milliput White epoxy putty, and a first application of Mr. Hobby Mr. Surfacer 500 soon to be followed by a finer second layer of Milliput White, turned the awkward looking beast into a modelling project!

The fuselage was marked at the bomb bay opening and was cut with the help of a minitool disk saw.

A deeper cut was achieved with a razor blade and...

... the skin was removed to reveal the Styrofoam within the fuselage.

With a heavy duty modeling knife I removed as much of the core as I could. The project continues in the next issue

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block50

T

he F-16 or better known as “Fighting

‘C’ Versions had an improved cockpit avionic

Falcon” or “Viper” is an all-weather

and radar, also they were ready for Beyond

multirole aircraft. Over 4,500 aircraft

Visual Range AIM-7 and AIM 120 air to air

have been built. Some characteristics are the

missiles.

frameless bubble canopy, side-mounted

My example from the 52nd Fighter Wing flew

control stick and a seat reclined at 30

in 1991 during Operation desert Storm and

degrees to reduce the effects of g-force. The

where temporary stationed at the closed Air

early versions were equipped with the famous

Base Bitburg which is near to the

P. & W. F100 engine from the F-15 Eagle to

Spangdahlem Airbase.

reduce costs. Because it was a multi-nation

I choose this model because of my childhood

project, partner countries like Norway,

memories. Living near the Spangdahlem AFB

Belgium, the Netherlands and Denmark were

is like a dream for any scale model builder,

involved in the production process.

every day I saw A-10’s or F-16’s in the sky above my house!

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modelled and described by Pascal Klasen 13

Classic Tamiya Tamiya’s kit has great profiles and fine details on the surface. It is possible to build

Because the Aires ejection seat has the wrong black cushion for my version I had

It was tricky to fit the Aires cockpit into the kit parts. I decided to remove the canopy

the Viper out of box but I decided to use various aftermarket details to get the best

to replace parts with a seat from Eduard which is a highlight of the cockpit offering

rubber sealing along the cockpit because it would be easier to fill the gaps at the hinge

results. The kit offers two versions of the

extra fine detail.

section of the cockpit. I replaced this at a

canopy, an aged yellowed one (which is great for a weathered version) and a new

First I painted the whole cockpit with FS36270 from Lifecolor then I brushed the

later stage. I use sanding paper with a range of 600 to

clear version.

instrument panels with a black tone. To protect the painted areas I recommend a

1200 to finish around the cockpit area, after filling and sanding I sprayed a coat of

Like on most other jet builds, I started with the cockpit and the air intake. For the

thin coat of satin or gloss varnish before weathering.

Alclad II grey primer with microfiller over the surfaces. The main assemblies of the

cockpit I used the Aires Block 50/52 set.

Now it’s time to start detailing the control

airframe went together in true Tamiya

Unfortunately the front section of the Aires cockpit has a wrong shape in comparison

panels, I normally use a 00000 brush and oil colors to paint the small buttons etc.

fashion with minimal fuss. Any gaps were treated to a coat of Alclad II Primer and

with the original one. After some quick research I found a correct front part in the

mistakes can be corrected by using clean white spirit.

some careful sanding with very fine papers.

Wolfpack cockpit set.

Some very careful filling and sanding was required to blend the resin cockpit to the kit parts.

Aires

I used the Aires cockpit which has great detail.

The Aires forward section didn’t match my reference photos, I found the part from ‘Wolfpack’ looked better.

Wolfpack

The gap left by the Wolfpack part required filling with Milliput and plenty of sanding and primer.

The results of careful detail painting with my 0000 brush.

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Tamiya putty was used in combination with a toothpick to fill the gap between the two parts of the intake. The next day I started with the sanding process again using a toothpick with the sanding paper glued to it. Flat white from Tamiya was used to paint the intake. While rescribing all panel lines it is useful to have a tool like the rescirber from Trumper or a riveting wheel like Rosie the riveter which I used throughout the build.

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With some epoxy and putty the Royal Resin nose fits perfectly. The Master-Model pitot is wonderful quality.

The Tamiya air brakes have been removed and replaced with Eduard parts.

To give the model some eye catching detail I used aftermarket airbrakes from

combination with the pitot set from Master models it’s another highlight feature of the

result was a destroyed canopy! The speed was too high and the friction

Eduard in resin and photoetch.Tamiya’s

model.

melted the surface so I will definately rely

original parts were removed sucessfully following Eduard’s instructions, for resin

All of my models use white metal landing gear and some extra hydraulic lines with

on polishing by hand in future. Fortunately Tamiya include two canopy options.

parts I recommend two component epoxy glue for that extra strength.

fine wire. This time I also tried the wheel set from Eduard. It includes brake Pads,

The AIM-9 M sidewinders are also from the aftermarket and include decals, clear parts

Because the nose of the Viper is split in two parts it would be a difficult work to fill

etched parts and wheel masks, a very highly detailed addition worth investing in.

and some extras. They are a lot better detailed than the kit parts. The final work is

and sand it without any loss of details. I

Polishing a canopy is sometimes a difficult

to fit all antennas in their positions, this is

decided to use a resin nose to save a little time. The fit was perfect and in

process. For the F-16 canopy I wanted to try my new polishing machine and the

always my last step to avoid any damage.

The air intake and the Aires parts are glued in.

To get a smooth joint I use Alclad II Grey primer and 800 grit paper.

Inside the canopy I used Archer Surface Detail rivet decals for more detail.

I was grateful Tamiya supply two canopies!

The seal was added with styrene strip.

Rivetting stuff! Tedious work but ultimately rewarding!

More rivet detail was added internally and a smooth blend made from the canopy to fuselage.

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Grey area This F-16 has a tree-tone colour scheme which means that the topsides were painted in FS36118. The sides and wingtip missile rails in FS36270 and the undersides, pylons, drop tanks in FS36375. I prefer to use colours from Lifecolor, the colour tones are fantastic and very realistic. On this model I want to try a new technique, it’s based on the ‘black and white’ technique. To get more shades I sprayed a dark grey tone along the panel lines as a pre-shading. This is also very useful if you want to achieve streaking lines at the wings or the tail. 16

After the pre shading step I sprayed on the areas between the dark lines with white tones. Blue tones are also helpful to achieve an irregular realistic result. Finaly, the main color FS36118 is very lightly sprayed over all areas allowing the previous airbrushing to show through. With the right thinning ratio of 80% alcohol and 20% water the flow is outstanding with Lifecolor.

Here we can see the effect of the black and white technique and it’s effect on the finished appearance of the grey tones.

An oil wash in ‘Shadow Brown’ from MIG defines the panel lines. Excess is removed with clean white spirit.

Before I applied the decals it is necessary to spray a coat of gloss varnish over the surface as a protection and to avoid the silvering of the decals. Decals where applied with Microscale Set and the medium decal setting from Daco productions. With decals in place I began with the weathering process, first of all a general ‘washing’ with shadow brown oil paint of MIG Abteilung 502. Then I removed the excess with a paper towel and white spirit. Because Oil paint dries very slowly I am

able to correct mistakes by brush with a relaxed working time. The front areas of the wings and some panels become damaged with a yellow/green tone like the original interior green showing under the grey finish. This paint damage is kept to a realistic minimum. For the exhaust I used Alclad II Airframe Aluminum and Gold Titanium in a ratio 50:50. The dark grey parts are painted with the airbrush because the decals from daco I found appeared too light. 17

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It’s true that this Tamiya kit builds into a beautiful F-16 straight from the box, but I hope you agree that with some aftermarket detail it is raised to the next level and worth the time and money invested.

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C

alled ‘Hien’ by the Japanese and ‘Tony’ by the Americans, this flying swallow is nonetheless a magnificent looking fighter with a sleek, stylish design. The kit is from Hasegawa, nothing exceptional to comment on in particular, the quality as usual, is high! The

In spite of all this, I chose to use a few selected accessories, for example the Aires resin cockpit and the Quickboost tailpipes that add precision and detail to the model. The chosen markings are the ones on the box art from the 149th “Shinbu” special attack plane with big red

flight. For the bare metal finish I chose a product that I am particularly fond of and that I have been using for several years since a friend of mine, Paul Coudeyrette, told me about it. Using it is not easy and a great deal of care is needed to apply it, but the metallic finish is incomparable in my

finesse and accuracy of the profiles are perfect.

and yellow streaks that signify the final objective for the aircraft which was its last

opinion and exceptionally realistic.

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After cutting out and cleaning the resin

which is very well done by Aires. There are

of the instrument panel using very thin

parts of the cockpit, I applied a layer of Rub‘N Buff with a brush before applying a

three parts, one of which is a film with the interior of the dials printed on it. This must

copper and lead wire. Note that there are no machine guns on this aircraft.

layer of brown Gunze H 66, which once it has dried, is “scratched” at key points with

be placed between the resin base and the photo etched piece, previously painted

All the different parts of the cockpit (dials,

a toothpick. Then to create different

black and weathered. The only thing left to

consoles, boxes, cables, etc,) are sprayed

shades, I sprayed Gunze H 79 that I darkened with some H 47 (red brown).

do is to put a drop of white Tamiya glue in each dial, which once it has dried looks like

with several shades of Prince August acrylics. Finally, a dry brush with a lighter

Let’s move on to the instrument panel

glass. A few cables are added to the back

colour provides some worthwhile contrast.

Some detail was added to the legs, the hinge of the outer landing gear door is replaced with a brass micro tube.

The flexible hydraulic brake hoses are added using flexible vinyl tubing from Model Factory Hiro.

The landing gear legs are now ready to be painted and first receive a layer of Rub ‘N Buff. The dust boots are painted black and the whole assembly is brushed with pigments then wiped away in places. Finally, a light spray of matt varnish is needed to seal the finish.

With the cockpit complete It’s now time to join the two halves of the fuselage together. Assembling the wings follows without any problems, so well in fact that the amount of putty need is minimal with both main assemblies, much to my satisfaction! The air inlet of the compressor for the DB 605 engine is moulded in one block and quite crude, lacking finesse and realism. First the slats were removed and replaced by photo-etched spares cut to the right shape and size.

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With assembly finished without fuss, the Hien is ready to be painted, but beforehand a careful inspection of the model was carried out so that any scratches or other defects present can be dealt with fine grades of sanding paper. This will avoid any visible imperfections after applying the Rub‘N Buff.

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After this essential stage, painting began with the leading edge flaps and rudder using IJ Green. The colour is then given depth by spraying the engraved panel lines with Tamiya Smoke and the parts that are most exposed to the light with lightened Tamiya XF 22 to obtain subtle contrasts. The whole area is covered with a layer of gloss varnish and then masked. Let’s move on to applying the Rub’N Buff. Be careful, as this product has its advantages but also disadvantages of which the most important concerns the delicate paints that are sprayed on top of it. A few simple rules need to be observed, especially when masking, as the stickiness of the masking tape must be reduced (see the P-47D in Air Modeller No 31). You can apply the metallic paste with your finger on the larger areas and with a paint brush on the inaccessible areas, always keeping in mind that the less you apply the more convincing the effect!

The model, now totally covered with Rub’N Buff, is slightly glossy but not too much as the aluminium of Japanese aircraft at the time was rather dull. As the markings were very simple, I chose to use stencils to do the majority of the eye-catching scheme. I began with the large streak of red with a yellow outline. First you need to make a photocopy of the decals. Masking tape is laid around the motif which is then cut out to make a stencil. Once I’d placed the stencils on the model, I airbrushed a thin coat of white undercoat which will make it easier to apply the subsequent bright colours without a heavy coverage. Yellow was applied first adding a few orange nuances especially on the panel lines. Now for the red, but beforehand very fine strips of masking tape need to be cut and laid on the edge of the yellow to create the border around the streak. Once the paint had dried, I very carefully removed the masking. What a relief… the result was just what I wanted!

The same procedure was followed on the static part of the red and yellow vertical stabilizer of the tail. As far as the rudder was concerned I decided not to make stencils as the insignia is so complicated using the decals for this with airbrushed shading and highlighting to add subtle realistic tones. Let’s move on to the other areas that are to be painted a colour other than natural metal: the yellow leading edge stripes, the black anti-reflective surface, the black service markings and the red Hinomarus. Once the marking tape is in place, they can be painted their respective colours, using a white undercoat for the light colours again to make them brighter. These painted areas are then carefully “scratched” with a toothpick to simulate weathering of the paint often seen on these aircraft.

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This is the longest stage of my modelling but necessary to give authenticity to the subject. The Rub’N Buff (as no varnish is applied) cannot be used with oil-based washes, only dry pigments or water-based washes should be used. I opted for CMK pigments that I find give great weathering results on the Rub’N Buff. They are applied to the whole aircraft using a large brush, removing the excess when necessary.

The following stage consists of fine airbrushing along the panel lines. To do this, I spray very diluted light grey paint on the lower lateral parts of the different panels. Then on the higher lateral parts spray black/brown paint over the light grey paint previously applied. These simple effects will increase the slightly uneven

appearance of the surface. I finished the weathering with the airbrush to simulate dirty marks from smoke, oil and mud with very diluted Tamiya XF black, brown and smoke paints. The very severe exhaust staining on this aircraft is simulated with a mix of Tamiya red, black and smoke to create a “greasy”

aspect. A fine dusting of matt varnish is then sprayed randomly to obtain alternating matt and satin finishes. To finish the assembly, the antenna wire and the various accessories that have been prepared previously are put into place.

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The Henschel Hs 123 was the first dive bomber of the German Luftwaffe. This aircraft entered service in 1936 and sadly the Hs 123 has been very neglected by model manufacturers. Only the vintage Esci kit exists in 1:48 scale, which has been reboxed by various labels / AM Tech, Revell and Italeri. In the last years a new model was produced, but this time in 1:32 scale from the Polish manufacturer Montex. This is an all resin kit and after opening the quite small, solid box ,we find a total of 148 light grey resin parts with no bubbles, all in bags. I was surprised by the surface detail of the model with a realistically handled canvas surfaces and recessed panel lines and nice details. The kit does not include any photoetched parts and the instructions are well arranged and it includes two camouflage colour schemes on separate sheets. The main activity of Montex is the production of airbrush masks, therefore the kit does not include decals, but a complete set of pre-cut spraying masks for all insignias and codes. 28

Henschel

Hs 123A

ZDENEK SEBESTA BUILDS THE MONTEX RESIN KIT

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Getting Started

I completed the surface of the fuselage, wings and tail surfaces by adding the rivet lines according to the drawings with the help of the RB productions rivet tool with a 0.75mm spacing. The cockpit is equipped with great details and there is no need to add any others apart from a couple of missing rods. The door on the left side of the fuselage are separated and it is possible to fix it in the open position. The instrument panel is cast in resin too and it is sufficiently thin. I stuck thin clear foil with the instrument dials on the back side of instrument panel. The only thing missing in the cockpit is the absence of seat belts. I was forced to look at making my own, or using a separate set of seatbelts from an aftermarket manufacturer, and I used the Luftwaffe seat belt set from RB Productions. The front windshield is printed on a clear plastic film and it consists of three separate parts, which I fitted into the resin frame. All the interior was painted in RLM 02 using Gunze GSI colours. 31

32

Engineering

I added some details to engine with

kit / wings, fuselage. This glue works also

ignition wires, plastic rod braces and more

like a putty. The upper wing is truly

rigid copper wire for the cowling braces. I

massive, with a strong profile, it consists of

The BMW 132 D 9-cylinder engine is very

replaced the machine gun barrels for the

left and right halves which I had to glue

detailed. I decided to open one section of

MG-17 by new nice metal barrels from the

together at an exact angle as shown in the

the three piece engine cover, whilst still

Polish company Master. I used thick black

instructions. Care is needed to get these

preserving the typical silhouette of aircraft.

CA glue for gluing larger resin parts of the

fixed accurately so as to avoid problems

with the final assembly. I sprayed the whole model with a layer Mr. Surfacer 1000 from GSI after assembly and airbrushing of the camouflage colours followed. The kit contains masks for two camouflage versions. The first version is combination of RLM 65 on the lower surfaces and solid shade of green RLM 70 or 71 on the upper surfaces, used by the Luftwaffe II/Sch.G1unit in Russia in 1942. The second version is combination of three tone pre-war Luftwaffe camouflage RLM 61, RLM 62, RLM 63. This aircraft served in the Spanish Air Force in 1942. I have chosen another camouflage scheme for an aircraft from unit StG. 165 Immelmann. It was the first unit of Luftwaffe equipped with this type in 1936. I therefore had to make all insignia and codes by myself. I drew them on computer using Corel Draw and printed them on a laser printer onto a decal paper with clear lacquer. I used data from the program and cut the white backgrounds for the crosses, circles under the swastika and white code letters into the masking film.

33

Technicolour The GSI Gunze paint range does not produce the camouflage colours RLM 61,62 & 63, so I mixed these colours from the available GSI colours according to a Luftwaffe paint sample guide. The mix ratio of GSI Mr. Colors: RLM 61: 70% Mr. Color 131 + 20% Mr. Color 22 + 10% Mr. Color 107 RLM 62: 70% Mr. Color 122 + 20 % Mr. Color120 + 10% Mr.Color 107 RLM 63: 70% Mr. Color 60 + 30% Mr. Color 338 RLM 65: 85% Mr. Color 115 + 15% Mr. Color 107 After spraying the painted model with gloss varnish I applied the decals, using GSI Mr. Mark Setter and Softer solutions. I applied wash using Neutral and Dark Wash solutions from MIG production. I attached the upper wing onto the struts finally and I was ready to complete the rest of the small surface details and add the minimal rigging lines. This model belongs to the category resin kits that are designed for the hands of an experienced modeller. However the building of the kit was very pleasant and trouble-free, without problems. Thanks to Montex we can enrich our collection with an aircraft, which has always been overshadowed by the more famous Junkers Ju 87 Stuka. References: 1.Henschel Hs 123 Flugzeuge profile 42 2.Henschel Hs 123 Wydawnictwo Militaria 4 3.Henschel Hs 123 Perfiles Aeronautico 2,Quiron ediciones 4.Luftfahrt - bilder,texte,dokumente 1,1978

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35

Military & Civil Aviation – Military Weapons & Equipment – Naval Vessels

Kursk Battle of Prokhorovka C Lawrence The Battle of Prokhorovka is the first definitive account of the largest tank battle in history. A unique tome which draws upon both German and Russian archive records and is built from the actual unit records from both sides. Includes 289 photos, 29 fold-out maps and 94 maps. HB 1650pp £160.00

The Great War Illustrated 1914 Archive and Colour Photographs of WWI R Wilkinson The Great War Illustrated series begins with 1914 and includes many unpublished photos. HB 368pp £25.00

Art and the War at Sea 1914-45 C Riding Drawing on the firstclass collections of paintings, works on paper (including drawings, photography and Profiles of German posters) and archival material, such as priTanks Panzer Book vate papers, journals No II C Sundin and memoirs, held at Lavishly illustrated the National Maritime book containing 64 colour profiles of Ger- Museum, London, the man Panzers. Each full artistic response to the war and more. Colour page profile includes written text explaining and B&W illustrations. the history of the HB 206pp £40.00 markings. HB 68pp £24.00

The Clay Pigeons of St LÔ G Johns The story of the fall of St. LÔ, the first major objective of the invading American armies in Normandy in June 1944 through the accounts of Glover Johns. SB 250pp £21.95

Sixty Years of Airfix Models J Brook The story of Airfix which has been at the forefront of the industry since 1955 when the first Airfix aircraft kit appeared in UK. 350 Colour photos HB 176pp £25.00

Fact File German Artillery 1914-1918 W Fleischer Overview of German artillery used during the Great War including field artillery guns, antiaircraft guns, mortars and howitzers. SB 126pp £12.99

Fact File German Heavy Artillery Guns 1933-1945 A Ludeke Overview of the history of German Artillery used during WWII, with technical data, facts and pictures. Black & white and colour photos. SB 126pp £12.99

Operation Dragoon. The Invasion of the South of France, 15 August 1944 S Andrew Study of the Allied landings that took place in Southern France in August 1944 represented one of the concluding elements of the wartime Mediterranean campaign. Maps and tables. HB 128pp £25.00

Les Elephants de Guerre du Colonel de The Silent Deep The First World War. Magach 7 IDF Patton Gaulle Chars D2 Au Combat S Bonnaud The Royal Navy Unseen Glass Plate M60 Magach 7 & 7 Submarine Service Photographs of the Gimel in IDF Service FRENCH TEXT ONLY. Superb selection of Since 1945 J Jinks Western Front Part 1 M Mass photos of Char D2 The first authoritative C Keyzer This book Colour photo album tanks and their crews history of the British presents rare glass containing an extenin action. Contains a submarine service plate photographs, that sive collection of since the end of the reveal the war with previously unpublished wealth of invaluable information for modSecond World War to previously unseen clar- photographs of the ellers including colour the present. The book is ity. Scanned from the Magach 7 & 7C in written with privileged original plates, with Israeli Defence Force profiles and tank crew uniforms. Lavishly access to both docuscratches and other Service. Includes illustrated throughout. ments and personnel. flaws expertly removed. technical drawings. HB 175pp £36.00 HB 864pp £30.00 HB 280pp £55.00 SB 78pp £22.99

Tiger and Panther Tanks German Panzer Profiles C Sundin Lavishly illustrated book containing 64 colour profiles of German Panzers. Each full page profile includes written text explaining the history of the markings. HB 68pp £24.00

Canadian Leopard 2A4M CAN D Hay Photo album containing large format, colour walk-around captioned photos of Canada’s latest battle tank, looking specifically at the tank in service in Canada without the slats and without the Barracuda. Also covers Afghanistan. SB 80pp £18.50

Post-War on the Liners W Miller From the magnificentCunarders Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth, Italian Line’s Augustus, Union-Castle’s Bloemfontein Castle, P&O’s Oronsay, and Shaw Savill’s Southern Cross-to the lesser known-Fyffes Line’s Golfito and much more. SB 96pp £18.99

Rare Wheels Vol.1 A pictorial journey of lesser known softskins 1934-45 P Dolezal Portrays the lesser known vehicles of WWII; the trucks and cars. It is arranged chronologically and starts before the outbreak of war, through Poland and Europe and on to the Eastern Front. HB 112pp £21.99

The Last Big Gun At War & At Sea with HMS Belfast B Lavery The first complete ‘biography’ of HMS Belfast, the last illustrious survivor of the last big-gun head to head broadside engagement at sea. B&W photos. HB 350pp £25.00

Models and Figures 11 The Story of Revell Volume 1 1950-1986 J Carbonel Looks back at the origins of the Revell company starting with its first kit in 1951 a clunker Maxwell 1:16. Colour throughout. SB 90pp £17.50

Histoire de Guerre Blindes & Materiel HS3 FRENCH TEXT. B&W photos, colour profiles Cent Mille Vehicules de l’armee francaise 150000 with 40 profiles and 275 illustrations. SB 82pp £11.99

Tanker Techniques Magazine (2) Extra Armor K Pulinckx Heavy armour and feature articles on builds including M-36 Serbian Jackson and much more. Colour photos. SB 98pp £8.99

Steel Masters Hors Serie 3 Nov 2015 FRENCH TEXT. Paper panzers and prototypes, Durchbruchswagen DW2; KV-5 Finlandais; PzKpfw VII Lowe plus many others. SB 84pp £6.99

Black & White Techniques J Lopez Explains in detail the black and white technique of colour modulation including Basic Ideas; Applying the b&w technique plus more. SB 110pp £17.99

LOS! 22 Le Magazine de la Guerre Navale, Aeronavale et Sousmarine FRENCH TEXT. Lavishly illustrated: La bataille du Jutland; La mêlée de Mobile Bay and much more. SB 82pp £6.99

Building Dioramas 3 L Adoba Illustrates how the modeller can build different miniature landscapes including In the Forest; Abandoned ruin; Attacked by wolves and much more. SB 99pp £16.99

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Panzer IV on the Battlefield World War Two Photobook Series C Ellis Hungarian/English captions. This photo album contains 104 rare black and white large format photos of the Panzer IV. HB 112pp £23.99

FAQ Frequently Asked Questions of the AFV Painting Techniques Volume 2 3rd Edition M Jiminez Second volume of the Definitive book on the art of painting and transforming military vehicles including the hairspray, colour modulation, streaking effects, oil, mud, tracks and dioramas. English language version. Lavishly illustrated throughout with colour photos. SB 316pp £48.99

Warship Pictorial 43 Alaska Class Cruisers S Wiper Contains general history of the Alaska Class Cruisers and a plethora of large format black and white captioned photos. SB 72pp £15.99

Images of War. Armoured Warfare in the Far East 19371945 A Tucker-Jones Visual introduction to the armoured battles of WWII in the Far East and Asia-Pacific regions from 1937-45. Illustrates the role of armoured vehicles in each theatre of the war. SB 144pp £14.99

Nuts & Bolts Vol.35: Büssing’s schwere Pz.Spähwagen Part 1: - schw.Pz.Spähwagen (SdKfz.231) & schw. Pz.Spähwagen (Fu) (SdKfz.232) (8-Rad) H Erdmann Contains 140 contemporary photos (many unpublished) from manuals, combat and war fronts. SB 200pp £25.99

Panzerwrecks 19 Yugoslavia L Archer This book covers German AFV wrecks in Yugoslavia, their employment in partisan and post war service. 151 rare large format black and white photos. SB 96pp £16.99

WWP FAT in Detail WWII Allied Field Artillery Tractors F Koran Colour photo album containing 142pp of captioned walkaround photos of the WWII Allied Field Artillery Tractors. SB 142pp £26.99

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THE CALM BEFORE THE STORM

HURRICANE Hawker Hurricane Mk1 (Early Version) L1679, Fg/Off Paul Richey of No1 Squadron, France 1939

W

hen Pacific Coast Models announced their beautiful new 1:32 early fabric wing Hurricane Mk1, I bought one immediately and, as usual, spent a long time deciding what aircraft/squadron to represent as I rarely use the kit offerings. So, two years later and having recently read ‘Fighter Pilot’ by Fg/Off Paul Richey of No1 Squadron - an autobiographical account of his life as a front line pilot during the Battle of France, I felt inspired to represent his aircraft (as far as references allow) as it was in France 38

during 1939. L1679 was Richey's regular mount until it was destroyed on 10th May during a raid on Mezieres. After hearing how it was 'sieved with bullets', Richey lamented, "I can only hope she burned before the Huns could lay their rude hands on her”! The parts breakdown is as expected and PCM have served the modeller very well by offering two fabulous representations of the early Mk1. Options are provided for building a pre-war version and include

relevant parts such as the distinctive ‘kidney’ exhaust ejectors, a Venturi and separate casting of the ventral fin running along the underside of the fuselage to the rudder. Armoured and non-armoured windscreens are provided. The famous Watts two-bladed propeller is a very good representation and, as the battle in France developed at a rapid pace during this period, so was the need for a faster fighter, so PCM have thoughtfully added a 3 bladed De-Havilland version too for ‘later’ early-mark versions.

Pacific Coast Models 1:32 kit modelled by Charles Whall

Overall, the PCM kit parts are of a high standard, three well cast main sprues with little or no flash, crisp panel lines but lacking the finer rivet detail details I would have expected in this scale as the panel fastenings around the engine cowl are quite out of scale and look like doughnuts, but nothing a little careful sanding won’t fix! The kit features some beautiful surface detail and accurately, and subtlety represents the fabric surfaces on the wings, fuselage and rear stabilisers which other manufactures tend to overdo in my opinion.

The clear castings are suitably thin, but the canopy part was a little cloudy in my boxing but cleaned up just fine with a little polishing compound and a dip in some Future floor polish. There are a number of nicely detailed photo-etched parts including the instrument panel, radiator grills, seat harness and a few cockpit components. The kit is surprisingly lacking other cockpit sidewall details and offers little more than a 1:48 kit! The resin parts are all very well cast and offer 4 and 5 spoke wheel versions, early and later exhausts, a superbly represented wheel

well and undercarriage assembly and various cockpit details. The decal sheet is supplied by Cartograf and no less than six marking options are available for a range of nationalities; 3 RAF, 1 Finnish, 1 Italian and 1 Belgian – choice enough for the most discerning modeller! All decals are beautifully printed and colours are in register.

39

cockpit

I had learned much about this kit through building the later version a couple of years ago, so I was much better prepared to deal with the trickier parts of construction and I was not surprised when faced with exactly the same issues (although fairly minor) with this early version. Working in 1:32 has given me the opportunity to learn and develop many new techniques – especially when it comes to detailing, weathering and finishing touches (this scale is also a lot easier on the eyes!). So, not feeling happy with the lack of detail in this scale, I felt I needed to make a few adjustments and additions to the basic kit, which I have outlined below:

PlusModel lead wire in various sizes 0.2 – 0.6mm. The kit components went together without any trouble and progress was made quickly. The etched instrument panel is offered in 3 parts with the dials on an acetate sheet sandwiched between. I applied a small drop of Micro Krystal Klear to create the effect of the dial glass. Acrylics were used for the instrument bezels, buttons and various knobs and levers. The starter button below the instrument panel was constructed in three parts using solid brass rod and brass shim (and gave me the opportunity to try the brilliant Waldron sub-miniature punch set). The punch set came in handy again for the Gunsight glass and wiring was added.

•Sutton Q harness by RB productions •Scratch built seat cushion from putty •Gunsight glass, wiring & brass sighting bar on cowling •Cockpit wiring/equipment •Rebuilt castoring tailwheel •Navigation light bulbs •Brass canopy handles •Canopy rails •Radiator actuators •Dorsal identification light •Rudder mass balance and actuator cables •Additional rivet details

RB Production’s amazing Sutton harness set.

Starting with the cockpit which, as stated earlier was surprisingly sparse straight from the box, I felt it required additional side-wall component detail and wiring using styrene rod and

Additional wiring and details really bring the cockpit to life

Just small amounts of filler required to fill gaps in the usual areas

40

The control column was detailed by adding additional wiring, a brass firing button and a brake lever. The aileron linkage was made using lead wire ‘squeezed’ with a small pair of pliers to create the individual link effect. The meticulously detailed Sutton Q harness set by RB productions is a real work of art! Constructed from over fifty parts comprising paper straps and photoetch buckles and grommets, it builds into a very realistic and satisfying representation of the real thing. I used a very small amount of light brown oils to wash over the harness straps to give them some depth and drooped one

over the side of the cockpit as seen in many photographs of the period. The cockpit and sidewalls were given a coat of Aircraft Colors interior green and then oversprayed with Extracrylix interior green as a highlight. I then used Abteilung dark brown oils to wash the area to provide subtle shadows. I am a huge fan of oils as they are so forgiving and can be used to produce some very subtle shadow effects, especially when it comes to weathering. Michael Rinaldi has written a superb article on Hyperscale outlining his ‘Oil Paint Rendering’ technique which allows the

modeller to manage and blend colours to provide specific effects which I will discuss in more detail later on regarding the final weathering stages of this build. A word of caution…I would strongly advise on joining the fuselage halves first and then fitting the completed cockpit tub as it is very tricky to line up separately, the same with the back head-rest section, I just slotted this in behind once cockpit was in. After a very thin final wash of Abteilung Black/Brown oils, the whole lot was given a coat of Tamiya flat varnish before closing her up.

I felt it was necessary to detail the rather sparse radiator area

Airframe The fuselage halves went together well but a significant ‘drop’ appeared one side of the fuselage just forward of the windscreen. No matter how hard I tried to line it up, it just wouldn’t work, so I let the whole thing dry and used green putty to fill and sanded smooth to fair in with the rest of the fuselage…issue number 1! (They do say bad things come in threes however!). A small amount of filler was needed on the cowling and on the underside where the wing centre section meets the fuselage. A major fit issue I encountered again was the joint between the radiator and fuselage. There is a large, raised moulded section on the underside wing which I assume is supposed to accommodate the shape of the radiator but the area was larger so created a very visible ‘step’ between the fuselage and radiator. Some fairly rigorous sanding eradicated the step and created a better join with a minimal amount of filler required…issue number 2! There was also a fairly large sink mark on the underside/flap section so more green putty was needed to fill it adequately. The panel fastenings around the cockpit area and cowlings are moulded quite clumsily but some light sanding was all that was needed to rectify the problem. I added some rivet detail on the wings and around the leading edge using a modified Hasegawa rivet wheel. The result was very subtle and I was not sure how well it would show up after the final paint job!

With fuselage and wing sections completed, I mated the wing section to fuselage with a very snug fit but suddenly noticed a very large hole in the bottom centre of the wings…I had forgotten to fix in the resin wheel-well to the inside lower wing section…issue number 3 (my fault though)! So, with the well in place, wings joined with fuselage once more but not nearly as snug as before…the top of the wheel-well was interfering with the cockpit so needed sanding down until it was almost see-through! Even with this done, the wings still did not mate properly as before so required some filler at the upper wing roots. I would advise fixing the upper wings to the fuselage and dealing with the lower section separately in order to avoid these issues.

41

Final sub-assemblies included the threepart gear doors which I assembled first before attaching them to the gear legs, to insure proper fit (a bit fiddly this area!). The gun ports are separate parts from the wings but fitted very snugly into their respective openings. The rear stabiliser joints are just a flush fit so I drilled them out and created pin-joints for a stronger join, a little filler was then required at the join. I wanted to create a castoring tailwheel so it could be offset if desired so I cut the main strut and replaced it with brass rod

Paint & Markings The camouflage is the standard A Scheme of RAF Dark Green/Dark Earth with black/white undersides for identification. Gunze and Tamiya acrylics were applied in various shades and consistencies to create fading and wear. Montex masks were used for the codes and all other markings were sprayed too.

The excellent Montex masks were used for all markings with pleasing results!

42

and inserted it loose into the fuselage. The fit was tight enough to allow the wheel to turn without falling out. With the foot stirrup extended, the mechanism also opens the pilots’ grab-handle below the cockpit in the open position so I thinned the area on the inside of the fuselage, cut the aperture and scratch-built the flap. The retractable footstep was constructed from aluminium as the kit part was oddly shaped and too thick. Elevators were cut and placed in the dropped position, no easy feat as the parts are incredibly thick and took some

considerable time to carefully cut with a razor-saw. Final detailing included a sighting bar on the cowling, dropped radiator flap and added the actuator rods. The hydraulic lines on the undercarriage doors were made using copper wire and clear sprue for the rudder navigation light and identification light in front of the aerial mast. Nylon thread was used for the antennae cable with a drop of white glue for the insulator. Brass wire grab handles were added to the canopy.

Hydraulic lines added to the undercarriage doors

I love the weathering stage of the build and this one I felt required a reasonable amount of dirt and grime, as the real aircraft would have spent most of its time on a muddy airfield in Vassincourt. As well as the usual post shading, I experimented a great deal with the oil rendering technique and what I enjoy most is the unexpected effects that occur when the oils are fully dried out-you never quite know what will happen! Mixtures of black, brown, and yellow were used to build up very thin layers of oil washed into various areas, left to dry and then reapplied until a satisfactory result was achieved (I would advise a good quality, odourless turpentine for prolonged use of oil paint). I find oils very forgiving as the slow drying times make them ideal for re-working if things go wrong, and can be

completely removed in order to start again. Of course, this all takes time but the results are well worth it. I used a blend of Tamiya and MIG pigments brushed in various areas to create dirt and grime. Scuffing and chipping was done using a Prismacolour silver pencil and lifting off painted areas to reveal Alclad Aluminium underneath. The fabric doped patches for the gun ports were a mixture of red sprayed over decal to create the ‘patched’ effect. Final touches such as oil staining on the underside were done with, well…oils! A final coat of Vallejo Matt varnish mixed with a little satin sealed everything in with a light dusting of MIG pigments to pick out areas that were lost with the flat coat and she’s done!

Oils and pigments add another dimension to the weathering effects

43

44

Conclusion A kit not without its faults but they are minimal and with a little patience, easily overcome. I think it offers beginners enough opportunity to develop detailing skills and techniques without being too burdensome but looks great straight from the box too. For intermediate and experienced modellers, it offers scope for a great deal of super detailing and builds into a very convincing representation of the real thing. My second outing with this kit and again I have found the project very enjoyable indeed – a highly recommended kit!

Reference Hurricane Walk Around, Squadron Signal Publications No.14 Hawker Hurricane, SAM Publications 45

new releases

Wingnut Wings 1:32 DH.9a ‘Ninak’ (Post War)

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It’s a warm welcome back to the DH.9a from Wingnut Wings with the original First World War having been released back in 2010. This new Post-War version represents the aircraft as was when it saw extensive service with various countries and was copied by the Soviet Union where it served as the Polikarpov R-1. Naturally there are many parts which have been carried over from the original 2010 kit but there are also 42 new parts which include instrument panel, revised undercarriage, wheels (with spare) auxiliary fuel tank and radiator, leading edge slats. The kit also now includes the updated armament sprues with a range of bombs including the 230lb HE bombs and improved bomb racks. As you would expect it is impossible to see any apparent difference between the new and old parts with the consistent high Wingnut Wings moulding standards applied to all the parts. The kit comes with a new photoetched fret which now comes with a small name plate for you to apply to a base along with expected seat belts and parts for the scarff ring. As with the original Ninak

you have a fully detailed engine and self contained cockpit tub to sit inside the exquisitely moulded fuselage. Modellers unfamiliar with Wingnut Wings kits will be impressed by the comprehensive full colour instructions which provide everything that you will need to assemble the kit from colour guides, rigging diagrams and colour profiles for the choice five schemes that the kit provides. These offer a choice of 3 different RAF aircraft operating in the Middle East in the 1920’s, an RAAF aircraft based in Australia, all in doped silver finishes. The final scheme is for a Russian Polikarpov R-1in dark green over blue camouflage with some ‘punchy’ political slogans along the fuselage. The huge decal sheet is printed as usual by Cartograf and is of the very highest standard and includes all the tiny stencils, instrument dials and markings for the assorted bombs. As usual, its top quality all the way as we have come to expect from wingnut Wings. www.wingnutwings.com

Wingnut Wings 1:32 Albatros B.II Early Something entirely new now from Wingnut Wings in the shape of this gloriously fragile-looking Albatros B.II Early. The B.II was unique in that it was first manufactured in 1913 and stayed in production throughout the conflict although it was relegated to training duties in the final years of the war. The moulding quality is everything we have come to expect from these superb kits and the wooden fuselage parts even have the tiny nail head patterns moulded into the surface! The cockpit is fully detailed and comes with the usual photoetched seat belts and in this kit optional ply wood decals are supplied to help you finish the cockpit interior if the thought of painting it seems daunting. The only thing that you may want to add is the very minimal internal control line rigging with a diagram supplied in the instruction booklet to show how this is arranged. The same wood grain decals are also provided to finish the exterior surfaces of the cockpit and whilst these look excellent there may be an issue with them covering over all those nail head details when they are applied? As usual the kit comes with a fully detail engine and separate cowling panels to expose the detail although even with them in place the top half of the

engine remains visible on the B.II. Once you have the fuselage assembled the construction of the wings with their precision location points is extremely straight forward. Wheels are provided with the option of covered or spoked versions or you can use the finer photoetch spokes for the ultimate finish. There are also parts to make the bomb rack with a choice of bombs and there is even a long barrelled Luger pistol with bulk magazine to dress your cockpit and a great little addition. The kit comes with the usual generous choice of five different sets of markings on the two huge decal sheets. Four of the schemes feature natural wood finishes on the fuselage so its one to brush up your woodgrain painting skills or go with the decals. As usual the excellent instruction book features a complete guide to colours throughout the build and colour profiles for each scheme. There are also useful archive photos of the actual aircraft provided too meaning that you really have all the reference that you need to get the very best out of the kit. Another excellent addition to the Wingnut Wings range. 49 www.wingnutwings.com

LUFT 03 A

LUFT 02 A

LUFT 04 D LUFT 04 C

LUFT 04 B LUFT 03 E

LUFT 03 B

LUFT 03 D LUFT 04 A

LUFT 03 C

Wings Cockpit Figures 1:32 Flight Crew

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We are already big fans of the Wings Cockpit Figures range, dedicated to providing crew figures for a wide assortment of 1:32 scale aircraft. This latest batch of figures are all Luftwaffe subjects and we begin with LUFT 02A and this mid-late war pilot wears a Kanal suit and comes with a life vest which can be laid on a wing or other flat surface. The casual leaning pose should suit any number of aircraft types and we have posed him with a battered old Me 109 which featured in Issue 1! LUFT 04 D is a ground crewman designed to lean on the wing of your chosen subject as he waits for the pilot to turn up. A great casual pose which comes with a choice of two heads. LUFT 03 A is a Hauptmann with a mapcase and leather jacket and this figure comes with a choice of two helmeted heads and flexible resin hose. The next figure LUFT 04 C is designed to lean on the edge of a Me 109 cockpit as we have shown but may easily adapt to other aircraft. He comes with a choice of two heads, both weaing the officer’s peaked cap. LUFT 04 B is a Fighter pilot stepping up onto the wing of an Me

109 and he is supplied with a choice of 2 helmeted heads. LUFT 03 D wears the one piece Summer flying suit and comes with just the single head. A suitable accompanying figure might be LUFT 03 E which is a pilot in service dress and based on pictures of Helmut Wick. This figure also just has the single head. Ground crew again now and another bored looking mechanic in black overalls LUFT 03 B with oily rag stuffed into his overall pocket. Another 109 pilot now suitable for 1939-40 LUFT 04 A is designed to sit in the cockpit with his foot on the edge and arm resting on the open canopy. He comes with the helmeted head seen here and another optional bare head. Finally we have another casual standing pilot LUFT 03 C wearing his life vest and supplied with just a single head. As you can see the quality of the sculpting across the range is absolutely excellent, good enough to make you want to build a 109 just to pose the figures on! Full details can be found on the Wings Cockpit Figures Facebook page or at www. wingscockpitfigures.com

Revell 1:48 Tornado GR.4 It doesn't seem so long ago (in fact over two years now) that Revell's eagerly anticipated new-tooled Tornado hit the market in it's IDS guise, this new release of the RAF GR.4 should prove very popular. Revell have given their brand a face-lift and as we've mentioned previously, full colour instructions are a step forward in building enjoyment. That said, this is a complex and detailed kit so each step of the instructions is busy (almost 300 parts to this kit and a top reading of 5 on Revell's 'skill' scale) but the modeller is ultimately rewarded with a very high level of finesse. Moulding and detail is really nice with some nice fine surface engraving and panel lines. The multi section airframe will take some careful assembly and alignment but we have separate positional slats and

flaps, detailed intake trunks, jet pipes and reverse thrusters which can be posed open or closed. Some new parts are included for the under-wing stores including 2250 Ltr 'big jugs' fuel tanks and we've a new decal sheet with anniversary markings from No. 41 Squadron, Coningsby, July 2011 and also an aircraft of 617 Squadron at Lossiemouth. Decals are superb and highly detailed down to pylon and weapon markings. More advanced modellers will probably improve the seat belt details and add some plumbing to the undercarriage but this will build into a very impressive model from the box. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For details visit www.revell.de/en

Airscale Airscale produce some very useful generic photoetched details with the sets suitable for multiple projects. Two new sets in both 1:48 and 1:32 cover modern jet cockpits providing Multi Function Displays, instrument bezels, switchgear and ejector seat details. A numerical guide provides part details to these very helpful sets. PE48 MOD is the product code for the 1:48 set and PE32 MOD for the 1:32 set. www.airscale.co.uk has more details of their top-quality range.

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Aviatic 1:32 WW1 “Marienfelde” German Lorry World War One specialists Aviatic have added to their growing range of decals and accessories with this stunning new German Lorry resin kit. Very much designed to work with all those Wingnut Wings kits that you have been hoarding and its not had to see the potential of combining this in a small diorama with an aircraft or perhaps in recovering a damaged aircraft? Production values in the kit are very high with a stunning full colour instruction booklet which has taken a leaf from the Wingnut Wings kits. Clear colourcoded diagrams provide painting guide information and there are assorted archive images of the Marienfelde in service as well as a period image showing assorted variations on the lorry design if you are tempted to modify the kit. The majority of the parts are

AMMO of Mig Jimenez Paint Sets

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More of Ammo's 'Air Sets' of colours for specific subjects, collated into four 17ml bottles of acrylics ready to spray or brush. A.MIG7205 is for USAF Tactical Air Command or Vietnam War era, A.MIG7206 is for Argentinian aircraft of the Falklands War era of the 1980s and A.Mig7207 for the popular subject of WWII U.S. Navy which includes the interior zinc-chromate green / yellow. A range of fine pigment metallics are now available individually which are also ready to spray These feature some interesting shades like metallic blue and old brass along with more common colours. See the full range of sets and individual acrylics at www.migjimenez.com.

cast in a grey resin to an extremely high standard but there is also a photoetched fret to provide items like the front mud guards and a superb radiator grille with ‘Daimler’ logo. The kit also provides a small decal sheet, printed acetate sheet for the glazing, assorted brass rod and aluminium tube, a length of chain and some copper sheet to fabricate optional side curtains for the cab and there is also a seated driver figure for the cab. Assembly of the vehicle looks comparatively simple so as not to scare off any dedicated aircraft modellers who may be tackling something wheeled for the first time! Full details of this stunning vehicle and the rest of the Aviatics range can be found at www.aviattic.co.uk

Revell 1:48 Dornier Do215 B-5 Revell continue their relationship with ICM with a re-box of their very nice Do215 B-5. The first thumbs-up is the packaging, Revell's new branding in a tray / lid box is a good start along with the new colour instruction booklet which is a big improvement. It looks as if we've a few parts tagged onto the sprues that were missing from the ICM version, the main ones being the flame suppressor exhausts seen on these night fighters; so far so good. The midgrey styrene is moulded very nicely with some sharp detail and impressive tooling design. With over 200 parts you can be assured of some good interior and cockpit detail and fully detailed engines should you wish to remove the cowls, the prop blades are very well done is a single piece moulding. Clear glazing parts are also well

done with plenty of spares for other 215 projects. New decals are always a bonus in Revell re-boxes, these are good quality with two options, one is as the box art with a two colour hard-edged mottle and an all-over black of NJG2 which could look stunning with the black weathered correctly. The prominent nose antennae are as good as you could expect in plastic but many will be looking to aftermarket or scratchbuilding in brass to add finesse here but this kit will build very nicely indeed straight from the box and offers great value. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For details visit www.revell.de/en

Revell 1:72 Mil Mi-28N Havoc More re-boxing from Revell, this kit looks as if it may have been moulded by Zvezda (and has certainly been released by Zvezda a few times) due to the tan coloured pair of sprues, but if I'm not mistaken was produced by Revell before Zvezda as a re-box of a DML kit? Very confusing…Moulding and detail is good if not great, accurately scaled surface detail in 1:72 is a tall order even with the very latest tooling technology so this is commendable considering it must be from the early '90s with some fine recessed panel lines

and nice finesse in places. Even in small-scale the MI-28 makes an impressive model being fully loaded with weapons and the stepped cockpit positions which are thankfully moulded as one clear piece requiring some careful masking. A small decal sheet is very well produced carrying one set of markings for a Russian demonstration aircraft in 2001. Revell model kits are available from 53 all good toy and model retailers. For details visit www.revell.de/en

Short Sterling By Pino Lombardi Published by Fonthill Media Hardback format, 416 pages ISBN 978 1 78155 4739 www.fonthillmedia.com

Coinciding very nicely with the start of our series on Megas Tsonos’ 1:48 scratch-built project comes this extensive in depth study of the first of the RAF's heavy bombers. The author must have dedicated much of his spare time for many years researching the subject culminating in this publication sharing his obvious passion for the Sterling. The story begins, as you'd expect, with design and development followed by a fantastic look around the factories with some great images of part assembled aircraft. A walk-through chapter provides exclusive interior images and information from an original Sterling providing great, generously illustrated modelling

Paint Locker Magic By William Tate and Jim Meehan Published by Fonthill Media Hardback format, 239 pages ISBN 978 1 62545 0418 www.fonthillmedia.com

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reference. We're then presented with service and crew history including an interesting chapter on ditching the Sterling and postwar use of the aircraft and their whereabouts. The book also covers the remaining fragments of the bomber that exist and the restoration projects. Not a book for the casual reader as it's a big book in page count but quite small in format and entirely in black and white (bearing in mind it has quite a high price tag) but for any enthusiast of Sterlings (or RAF bombers in general for that matter) this book will be worth it's weight in gold with very detailed information and an unrivalled collection of images.

'Nose Art' is a pretty well documented topic and of obvious interest to modellers, little has been unearthed and published about U.S. Navy aircraft special markings and artworks with this book looking to change that. A historical introduction is followed by a detailed look at all eras of service including WWII, the Korean War, the Vietnam War and modern conflicts to date. As you'd expect, the book is packed with images (mostly colour) as they're from various sources and time periods the quality varies as does the

printed size, the majority are perfectly suitable modelling reference. The authors are obviously experts in their field with some superb research and details of specific aircraft, pilots and combat service with appendices listing aircraft by both name and type (covering around fifty pages!). A great collection of images backed with in-depth information to please any U.S. Naval Aviation enthusiast although a slightly larger format would have been preferable for the price.

BR72274

BR72275 BR48195

BR24281

BR48197 BR48279

BR48261

Barracuda Studios ‘When ‘good enough’ isn’t good enough’ states Barracuda’s packaging and they certainly come up with the goods with superb detail and high quality casting. A nice concept are these ‘Snapshot’ cockpit upgrades providing enhanced detail without too much labour. BR48197 is for Eduard’s 1:48 Spitfire XVI and BR48195 for the VIII version. Both these sets come with a dedicated decal sheet and printed film for the instrument dials. Still in 1:48 is BR48261 providing an accurate set of main wheels for Grumman Guardian AF-2S/Ws (including masks) and BR48279 for

72120 72118

Kinetic’s Grumman Tracker. BR48270 is a nicely sculpted 1:48 RAF pilot suitable for most mid-late WWII fighter or fighter-bombers. In 1:72 there are replacement wheels for Airfix’s Shackleton BR72274 providing all of the wheels with highly detailed tread pattern and BR72275 a set of early unducted exhausts. Finally for the big 1:24 Airfix Mossi is a set of direct replacement main wheels with superb block-tread pattern and detailed hubs, BR24281. www.barracudacast.com is the place to see more details on these new releases and the rest of their range.

72120

72115

48293

48294

72116

72121

72117

48292

Scale Aircraft Conversions SAC have been busy again and we have another batch of white metal undercarriage legs and we begin with 72120 which is desihned for the 1:72 Italeri Short Sterling kit. 72115 is for the new Airfix Whitley bomber and 72120 is to fit the Airfix Dornier Do17. Sticking with Luftwaffe subjects set 72118 is to work with the Zvezda Ju 88 kit and 72121 is designed for the Tamiya F4D-1 Skyray. 72117 is to upgrade the Airfix Kate and the set includes

parts to detail the folding wings too. 72116 is desined to fit the Fujimi 1:72 Skyhawk kit and will also fit the Hasegawa kit with some minor adjustments. Moving to 1:48 and set 48293 is to fit the Hobby Boss P-61 Black Widow. 48294 is designed to fit the Pilot Replicas Saab J21 A-3 and 48292 if for the F3D-2 Skyknight for the Czech Model/Encore kit. Full details can be found at www.scaleaircraftconversions.com

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P-51/F-6 Mustangs with the USAAF, ETO By Tomasz Szlagor Published by Kagero Softback, 90 pages plus masking stencils English and Polish text ISBN 97883 64596681 www.casematepublishing.co.uk

Focussing mainly on the 8th and 9th Airforce's Mustangs, this new release from Kagero is a feast of quality images and stunning profile illustrations for P-51 fans. An introduction focusses on the aircraft details rather than history and some brief outline to the tactics and formations. All of the images are in large format with some excellent reference of nose-art, crew members and some spectacular battle

HGW Decals, Seatbelts and Upgrade Sets

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Some more stunning detail sets and decals from the guys at HGW. To claim to upgrade a Wingnut Wings kit you need to produce something special, these three sets for the DFW.C.V are just that.132131 is a set for the cockpit comprising of beautifully printed and laser-cut wood panelling and a photoetched fret. 132132 is a photoetched set to detail the two mounted machine guns including ammo belts, drums and some fine cooling sleeves. 132133 is more photoetch to detail the 230Hp Benz Bz.IV with some very detailed additional plumbing and mesh for the cooling systems. Still in 1:32 for WWI subjects is 132129, a set of spoke (presumably wheel spokes) eyelets, 160 should do a few projects. HGW produce the ultimate in seatbelt details with coloured and laser-cut micro textile belts and photoetched

buckles and fittings. Both in 1:32 132571 is for the Kittyhawk P-39Q/N and 132568 for a Mosquito FB Mk.VI, a nice touch for the new Tamiya kit. A selection of HGW's wet transfers are new to their range, cast your mind back to the Editor's build of the new Revell Fw190 and you'll remember how impressed we are with this transfer method. Applied like regular water-slides but with a removable carrier film, only the printed areas remain on the model without unsightly 'silvering'. All in 1:48 for Czech Mig-21s 248011 will cover stencils for two aircraft of the 'Silver Arrows' whilst 248012 deals with MF, BIS and SMT Czech Mig stencils. 248014 is a set of code numbers for 'Silver Arrows'. HGW; beautiful presentation and quality, highly recommended. www.hgwmodels.cz

damage. Supportive, detailed captions accompany the images as usual and Kagero produce some of the best colour illustrations available with a dozen aircraft profiles to inspire. A nice inclusion is a set of pre-cut masks of generic stars and bars which look to be in 1:32. Another recommended Kagero release to add to the library.

Revell 1:72 Polikarpov 1-153 Chaika

Revell 1:72 Heinkel He70 F-2

Another outing for the neat little ICM kit of this almost cartoon-like Russian bi-plane. This is a simple kit but shows some very delicate detail and fine moulding. A few simple home-made additions such as seatbelts would enhance the cramped cockpit, and if your eyesight is up to it the simple wing rigging wires would add a nice touch. A selection of bomb payloads is offered and one typically Russian set of markings. A nice, if not tiny, kit. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For details visit www.revell.de/en

More re-boxing of Ukraine’s ICM kits, this unusual looking He70 looks like a very dated tooling representative of the Eastern European kits of old. There is some fine surface detail but it looks as if some of it may disappear beneath a coat of paint! Revell did also re-box the Matchbox He70 in the past which is another dated kit, so with not a lot of choice of this off-beat subject this should be considered a good base to work on. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For details visit www.revell.de/en

Encyclopedia of Aircraft Modelling Techniques- Vol. 3 Diego Quijano Published by Ammo of Mig Jimenez Softback format, 200 pages (available in multiple languages) ISBN 8432074 060529 The extensive guide to aircraft modelling from Ammo continues with celebrated modeller, Diego Quijano, sharing his painting techniques in an in-depth step-by-step format producing some stunning results. It's easiest to say that if you have questions about any paint finishes or effects, the answer is most probably here. From priming and base colours to metallic finishes, camouflage patterns of all descriptions, weathering and chipping methods, pre-

shading, lighting effects and woodgrain. As well as the painting and weathering, markings are also covered as masking (homemade and aftermarket) and spraying, dry transfers and even good old water-slide decals with solid information presented as clear visuals. A great series of books which will teach every modeller something, whatever the standard of their work. Head over to www.migjimenez.com for more details on the series.

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With this kit, Zvezda offers modellers one of the best representations of the famous Mig 21. The overall shape is correct exept for the air intake which is slightly off. Panels are finely engraved with crisp details. For this project I also used the excellent ‘Part’ photoetched set and a ‘Begemot’ decal sheet for the stencils. 58

François-Régis Binder gives us a small-scale MIG masterclass

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Take a seat...

I started the build with the seat. The Zvezda seat is quite simplistic so I decided to rebuild a new one by using this piece as basis and create my own resin castings. The headrest is a resin ‘RV-Resin’ seat. Details are made with plastic sheet and phtooetch parts. Harnesses are made with foil sheet and photoetched buckles. The cockpit is correct but there is a mistake on the floor. The shape

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should be rounded and not flat. This was corrected with shaped Evergreen plastic card. The dorsal part and the side consoles received some Part pieces and additionnal details from scratch. The Part instrument panel is simply superb but the foward area is upgraded with some scratch-built details working closely from references.

Well(s) detailed...

One let-down of this kit is the poor representation of the main landing gear bays. I decided to remake this area in order to represent the wing portion and the details inside the wings, especially the typical spherical tanks. I removed the kit’s wheel bays and re-modelled them in thin plastic card in order to give more depth and allow the construction of the sidewalls. On the fuselage, the edge area has to be refined and the step to the wing removed. After this modification, the bottom and the sidewall become visible and should be updated. Photographic reference must be carefully studied because these areas are not symetrical. The landing gear was detailed with lead wire and plastic card for the brake system. Wheels received new rims from the Part set. The forward wheel bay is also simplified and should receive some extra details including the delicate Part photoetched doors.

Inside job... In order to give more life to this model I opened some avionics bays like behind the windscreen, below the cockpit, at the rear of the fuselage and at the base of the fin. As usual, I used plastic card and copper wire to build up the cluttered detail. The housing for the parachute and battery (behind the forward landing gear) are opened and the inside detailled also.

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On the surface... The wing flaps were cut in order to give more dynamism to the model. Some panel joints were corrected and the whole wing surface received a light riveting (with the Rosie the riveter tool). The two lights on each side of the main well were missing and added, the positions are not symetrical which you can see in reference images. Reinforcements made of tin strips are glued at the junction between the fuselage and the wings and also two small fairings at the wing root were modelled. Missing

grilles were added with photoetched pieces and panels also made of tin sheet were glued on the tail and around the fins. The inside of the exhaust nozzle is empty and has to be updated with overlapping petals made with 0.3 mm plastic card and the inside corrugated effect represented with tin sheet. The detailed air scoops that can be seen on the the fuselage come from a “Quick Boost” upgrade set.

On the back, the dorsal air scoop had to be moved forward by a few millimeters. On the kit, the air intake is slightly too wide and should be reduced in diameter. The simplest method is to make small cuts perpendicular to the air intake. This allows removing small amounts of plastic and curving of the edges with clamps reducing the air intake diameter, finished with a little filling and sanding.

Almost ready for paint! The internal datails and cockpit are complete and require carefull masking.

More scratchbuilt details with styrene and copper wire.

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On with the colour...

An oil colour wash was brushed into the panel joints and rivets.

The three-tone camo applied with good-old Humbrol enamel!

Excess oil paint from the wash are removed with lighter fluid.

Sponged masking fluid and various airbrushed tones give realism and depth to the monotone grey.

The same method with masking fluid and subtle tones were airbrushed on the upper surfaces...

with pleasing results and realistic finish.

Some subtle paint damage was picked out with aluminium silver and a fine brush, less is more in this small scale.

I used the decals provided by Zvezda supplemented by Begemeot stencils. I’s boring work to position all the stencils but the result is nice. Finally, I sprayed a Humbrol matt varnish to homogenize all the weathering.

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Zvezda have produced a really nice kit of the Mig 21. Assembly is good as is the detail, even straight from the box. I’d recommend the Part photoetched upgrade, the extra it gives to the model is certainly worth the effort.

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